CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How to get the highest yield from breeding fly maggots (What are the methods to get the highest yield from breeding fly maggots)

1. How to raise maggots by fermenting feces?

You can add soybean meal, cotton meal, rapeseed meal, tea seed meal, peanut meal, wheat bran and other oil mill waste materials to the feces. These materials are high in protein and energy. Some oil meal materials have the characteristics of low price, which can increase about 8% of protein and a lot of energy. It can effectively increase the yield of fly maggots.

There are female and male flies. After emerging from the pupa, if the ambient temperature is between 25°-35° and the female flies are fed with ordinary sugar water, the female flies will seek to mate; but male flies are different. After they are born, they must obtain some protein food to produce sperm. If they cannot obtain a certain amount of protein food, male flies will always refuse to mate. When male flies absorb enough protein food, they will produce a large amount of sperm in about a day and mate with female flies. After mating with female flies, they will die after a few hours. After mating once, female flies can store sperm in their bodies and lay fertilized eggs until they die. Female flies can mate with multiple male flies. After the breeding flies lay eggs, they will hatch into maggots within 12 hours at a temperature above 28°, and the maggots will eat after hatching. The pH value of food required by fly maggots is between 6.2 and 8. Maggots have no teeth and eat by sucking. When they encounter some larger and harder food (such as animal carcasses, fresh animal feces, etc.), they will first gather in one place and crawl quickly. During the rapid movement, the local temperature of the gathering will rise.

2. What method can be used to raise maggots to achieve the highest yield?

1

/9

Chicken manure maggot breeding method

Dry the chicken manure, mash it, mix it with a small amount of rice bran or wheat bran, and then mix it with mud to make a pile, and cover it with straw or weeds. Make the top of the pile concave, pour sewage 1 to 2 times a day, and a large number of small maggots will appear in about half a month.

2

/9

Human feces maggot breeding method

Dig a 17 cm deep pit, spread a layer of straw on the bottom, pour human feces on the straw, and cover the feces with straw mats. After 7 days, maggots will be bred.

3

/9

Rice straw maggot culture method

Cut the rice straw into 3-7 cm long pieces, add water and boil for 1-2 hours, bury them in a 100 cm long, 67 cm wide and 33 cm deep pit, cover with 6-7 cm of sludge, and then seal with thin mud. Water every day to keep it moist, and maggots will appear in 8-10 days.

4

/9

Bran maggot culture method

Pour the bran material into a plate, add in wine lees, bean dregs, etc., and mix well.

5

/9

Fresh grass maggot breeding method

This method uses 80% fresh grass or leaves and 20% rice bran, mix them well, add a small amount of water and cook them, then pour them into a clay jar or pond. After 5 to 7 days, a large number of maggots will be bred.

6

/9

Bean cake maggot breeding method

Mix a little bean cake with tofu dregs and ferment them, mix them with chaff and leaves, put them in a 7-10 cm deep pit, cover them with a layer of mud, and then cover them with grass. After 6-7 days, many maggots will be born.

7

/9

Animal maggot breeding

Dead animals or animal viscera, such as small intestines, are slightly chopped or cut and mixed with rice bran. At a temperature of around 15 degrees Celsius, maggots will appear in about three days.

8

/9

Tofu dregs maggot breeding method

Place 1-1.5 kg of tofu dregs directly into a water tank, add a bucket of rice washing water or rice water, cover the tank after 1-2 days, and maggots will be bred after 5-7 days.

9

/9

Mixed feces maggot breeding method

Pig manure 80%, wheat bran 20%; pig manure 60%, chicken manure 40%; pig manure 75%, tofu dregs 25%; fresh pig manure 100%; chicken manure 50%, pig manure 25%, tofu dregs 25%. If the manure is too wet, add a small amount of wheat bran.

According to the existing conditions, we should see which base material is easy to obtain and low in cost, and make flexible preparations.

3. Are there any practical methods for raising maggots?

Method for rapid breeding of fly maggots: The specific method is as follows:

1. Cultivation tools: General household plastic basins, plastic buckets and other containers can be used, the four walls must be relatively smooth, and the depth of the basin must be greater than 25 cm.

2. Selection and preparation of egg-sucking materials and collection and cultivation of fly eggs. If there is fresh chicken manure, you can directly use fresh chicken manure as egg-sucking materials to collect fly eggs. The method is: put fresh chicken manure in a basin. If the chicken manure is too dry, sprinkle a little water on it. Put it in a place where there are many flies in the wild. It should be placed in a cool place as much as possible. If the sun is too strong, use shade to shade it. Generally, flies will gather and lay eggs immediately after putting it in. Take back the egg-sucking materials every afternoon. You can see that there are clumps of fly eggs on the surface of the chicken manure. You should immediately cover it with corn manure or wheat bran mixed with water to ensure that the egg masses have a certain humidity. You can see many small maggots the next day, and you can raise them in separate basins. The method of raising maggots is to first spread about 3-5 cm thick wheat bran or corn flour mixed with water in the basin, and then put the hatched maggots together with the egg sucking material on the wheat bran or corn flour. After eating the egg sucking material, the maggots will quickly drill into the feed below. Under normal circumstances, they can grow into large maggots in 3 days. The powder used to raise maggots can be fermented or used directly. If rice bran is used to raise maggots, it must be fermented, and the rice bran must be of good quality. The "rice bran" that is completely rice husk is not effective in raising maggots. Fermentation can increase the yield of fly maggots. Generally, 1 catties of wheat bran can produce about 0.5 catties of maggots, and 1 catties of corn flour can produce 0.4 catties of maggots. The yield can be increased by about 1 times by adding waste such as pig blood. The powder mixed with water is easy to heat up, so the thickness of the powder in the basin should not be too thick to prevent the fly maggots from dying from heat. The maggot breeding pot should be placed in a place with higher temperature (25-30℃) but slightly dim light.

3. Cage management of flies. Using this method to collect fly eggs will not only not increase the number of wild flies, but also gradually reduce the number of flies in the wild if used for a long time. However, in some densely populated areas, in order to avoid causing people's disgust, especially if you want to use red-headed flies for breeding, you can keep the flies in cages. The specific method can be found in Appendix II, pages 34-36 of the third volume of the eel training materials.

4. Separation of fly maggots. There are several methods for separating fly maggots. (1) Separation between large and small basins. Place a smaller plastic basin inside a larger basin, wet the four walls of the small basin with a damp cloth, pour the maggots and feed into the small basin to a thickness of about 2 cm, and the fly maggots will crawl along the basin wall into the large basin. (2) Photo separation. Place a sieve with holes large enough for the maggots to drill through on a plastic basin, wet the maggot feed with water, and then pour it into the sieve. The thickness should not exceed 2 cm. Place it in the sun. Since the fly maggots are afraid of light, they will try their best to drill down and fall into the basin below. (3) If there is a maggot breeding room, pour it into the maggot breeding pool and let it separate automatically.

The waste from breeding fly maggots can be directly used for raising chickens, pigs, fish, etc. It is still a very good feed, and animals love to eat it.

Using this method, based on the calculation of using fly maggots alone to breed eels, generally about 7 kilograms of fresh maggots can make the eel gain weight.

4. How to breed maggots? What is the best way to breed maggots?

Outdoor simple fly maggot breeding technology Although the yield of outdoor fly maggot breeding is lower than that of three-dimensional fly maggot breeding, and it is not as stable as three-dimensional fly maggot breeding, it has the advantages of low investment, quick results, no need to introduce species, no need to feed flies, and low cost. It is the choice of most breeders at present. The suitable season for outdoor simple fly maggot breeding is generally from the end of April to mid-October each year. The construction site of the simple breeding house is chosen in a place far away from the living area, with shade but certain light, and more wild flies. The area should be determined according to the required output. According to production experience, the average output per square meter is about 0.5 kg. As long as the breeding house can shelter from rain, thatched houses, cement tile houses, and bark houses are all fine. The house should be surrounded by 1-meter-high screens to prevent animals such as chickens and ducks from entering. The breeding pool requires a simple cement pool, each pool area is 1.5 square meters to 2 square meters, and the pool edge is 20 cm high. Preparation and placement of manure: 70% fresh pig manure (within 3 days of excretion by pigs), 30% chicken manure (within one week); 100% fresh pig manure from slaughterhouse; 75% pig manure, 25% tofu dregs; 50% chicken manure, 25% pig manure, 25% tofu dregs. Mix the above manures, with a water content of 100%, pile the manure to a height of 20 cm, cover it with agricultural film, and it can be used after 24 to 48 hours. Since it is outdoor breeding, the manure can be directly sent to the breeding pond without fermentation. Send the fermented manure to the maggot house, and pile three in each pond, each 0.8 meters long, 0.2 meters wide, and 0.15 meters high. The time for placing manure is 4 to 5 o'clock every afternoon. Preparation and placement of egg-collecting materials Since it is outdoors, there are more choices for egg-collecting materials. You can put dead fish directly on the dung pile, or you can prepare it according to the following formula: Calculate based on 100 kg of dung: 1 kg of wheat bran, 2 liang of fish meal, 3 liang of peanut bran, and 1.5 kg of water. Mix well and put it on the dung pile. After placing the egg-collecting materials, it is forbidden to walk around the maggot pool. Daily management: Put the dung well, put the egg-collecting materials (preferably dead fish or fish viscera in the first few days to attract wild flies), and in places with more wild flies, a large number of flies will gather on the egg-collecting materials within half an hour to lay eggs. At 9 o'clock in the evening, use a small amount of egg-collecting materials to cover the egg masses laid by the flies with a thin layer to increase the hatching rate and reduce the damage of insects such as ants. The fly eggs will all hatch the next morning. After 36 to 48 hours, the maggots have already made the previously neatly stacked manure pile very messy. After 72 hours, the first grown maggots begin to crawl out of the manure pile and automatically separate and fall into the maggot collection bucket. Generally, the maggots in the manure have been completely separated on the seventh day. Assuming that you have 14 maggot pools, you should add manure to two pools every day. Fill them all on the seventh day. On the eighth day, shovel out the residual manure that has been completely free of maggots on the first day and put in new manure. This cycle of production continues. At 10 o'clock in the morning, collect the maggots from the maggot collection bucket, shovel out the residual manure that has been completely free of maggots, and shovel the manure in other pools that has been loosened by maggots and has been piled up on the edge of the pool into the middle of the manure pile to avoid blockage and maggots cannot tell the way when separating. It is not necessary to feed simple outdoor maggot breeding. However, in order to keep the flies around the maggot breeding room, new manure and egg-collecting materials must be placed every day. The main food of flies comes from manure and egg-collecting materials. Since outdoor maggots cannot be disinfected, the maggots raised must carry a lot of harmful bacteria. It is recommended to soak them in 70,000 parts potassium permanganate water for 5 minutes before feeding them to economic animals.

5. How to produce maggots in large quantities?

1

/9

Chicken manure maggot breeding method

Dry the chicken manure, mash it, mix it with a small amount of rice bran or wheat bran, and then mix it with mud to make a pile, and cover it with straw or weeds. Make the top of the pile concave, pour sewage 1 to 2 times a day, and a large number of small maggots will appear in about half a month.

2

/9

Human feces maggot breeding method

Dig a 17 cm deep pit, spread a layer of straw on the bottom, pour human feces on the straw, and cover the feces with straw mats. After 7 days, maggots will be bred.

3

/9

Rice straw maggot culture method

Cut the rice straw into 3-7 cm long pieces, add water and boil for 1-2 hours, bury them in a 100 cm long, 67 cm wide and 33 cm deep pit, cover with 6-7 cm of sludge, and then seal with thin mud. Water every day to keep it moist, and maggots will appear in 8-10 days.

4

/9

Bran maggot culture method

Pour the bran material into a plate, add in wine lees, bean dregs, etc., and mix well.

5

/9

Fresh grass maggot breeding method

This method uses 80% fresh grass or leaves and 20% rice bran, mix them well, add a small amount of water and cook them, then pour them into a clay jar or pond. After 5 to 7 days, a large number of maggots will be bred.

6

/9

Bean cake maggot breeding method

Mix a little bean cake with tofu dregs and ferment them, mix them with chaff and leaves, put them in a 7-10 cm deep pit, cover them with a layer of mud, and then cover them with grass. After 6-7 days, many maggots will be born.

7

/9

Animal maggot breeding

Dead animals or animal viscera, such as small intestines, are slightly chopped or cut and mixed with rice bran. At a temperature of around 15 degrees Celsius, maggots will appear in about three days.

8

/9

Tofu dregs maggot breeding method

Place 1-1.5 kg of tofu dregs directly into a water tank, add a bucket of rice washing water or rice water, cover the tank after 1-2 days, and maggots will be bred after 5-7 days.

9

/9

Mixed feces maggot breeding method

Pig manure 80%, wheat bran 20%; pig manure 60%, chicken manure 40%; pig manure 75%, tofu dregs 25%; fresh pig manure 100%; chicken manure 50%, pig manure 25%, tofu dregs 25%. If the manure is too wet, add a small amount of wheat bran.

According to the existing conditions, we should see which base material is easy to obtain and low in cost, and make flexible preparations.

6. How to breed maggots?

1. Necessary conditions for maggot breeding:

(1) Natural conditions: Temperature is a necessary condition for maggot breeding. When the temperature is below 20℃, the flies stop breeding or enter a hibernation state, not eating or moving. Plastic sheds can only be used for seasonal breeding. In late autumn, severe winter, and early spring, the temperature does not meet the requirements, so breeding in the shed is futile.

(2) Maggot feed: The feed for productive maggot breeding must be cheap waste, preferably chicken manure produced by professional chicken farmers. If 3 catties of chicken manure is used to produce 1 catties of maggots, a lot of feed is needed for productive breeding. If you buy soy sauce residue, tofu residue or other waste, the cost is too high and the result is often not worth the cost.

(3) Self-consumption ability: It is best for the family to be a professional poultry or fish farmer to engage in productive maggot breeding, so that it can produce and consume maggots by itself, thereby reducing the feed cost of poultry and fish and improving economic benefits.

Second, the location of the breeding site. Fly maggot breeding is to a large extent harmful to hygiene. Therefore, when choosing a breeding site, pay attention to the following points:

(1) Stay away from residential areas: Chicken manure or other waste piled up in the yard will allow flies to enter the house and bite and crawl around, affecting human health.

(2) Pay attention to the year-round wind direction: Pay attention to the local year-round dominant wind direction and set up the maggot breeding farm on the leeward side of the chicken farm to prevent the odor from drifting into the breeding room and the chicken farm, affecting the healthy growth of the breeders and the chickens.

(3) Stay away from water sources: Maggot breeding farms must be far away from self-supplied water sources and public water sources to prevent sewage from seeping into the ground, causing water quality deterioration and affecting the water use of chickens.

(4) Waste dumping site: A productive fly maggot breeding site must have a dedicated area for the dumping of chicken manure and fly maggot breeding waste to prevent environmental pollution.

3. Construction of breeding rooms and sheds

The area of ​​the insulation room and shed is calculated as 1 square meter for every 1 kilogram of maggots produced. Rooms and sheds that are too large are not conducive to heat preservation, and too small cannot guarantee the output. This is a major problem in maggot farming, which involves investment issues. If funds permit, a cold-proof insulation room can be built for year-round farming; if funds are insufficient, seasonal greenhouse farming can be carried out. Simple outdoor farming is affected by temperature and rain. The farming time in the south is longer and that in the north is shorter. This method of farming can neither guarantee the output nor harm environmental hygiene, so it is not recommended. The following points should be paid attention to when constructing a shed for productive farming:

Cold protection and heat preservation: To ensure that the indoor temperature of the greenhouse is above 25℃, the indoor walls should be of a certain thickness, the doors and windows should be tight, and there should be heating and temperature control facilities indoors. The temperature of the plastic greenhouse is too high in summer, and it is difficult to reach 25℃ in cold seasons, so it is not suitable for breeding.

Rain and sun protection: Pay attention to rain protection when breeding in the shed to avoid damaging the breeding environment of fly maggots. In the midsummer season, pay attention to avoid direct sunlight to prevent the fly maggot feed from drying up and causing the maggots to die.

The specific structure, scale and shape of rooms and sheds can be adapted to local conditions and do not have to be forced to be consistent, as long as they are applicable.

4. Productive breeding management

The productive breeding management of fly maggots can be roughly divided into two parts: inducing flies to lay eggs and the growth of maggots.

(1) Female flies have the instinct to hatch eggs safely, so they usually lay eggs in a quiet place rich in nutrients or in a sheltered place. To understand this habit of female flies, you can use plastic square plates, cans and other containers, put nutrients (meat bones, soup residue, fish viscera, watermelon rinds, wheat bran, sugar solution and other waste) in them, and place them in a quiet place to lure flies to lay eggs. When the eggs hatch into maggots, you can move them into chicken manure to let them grow.

(2) In the feeding and management of fly maggots during their growth, it is important to understand that after the maggots mature, they no longer need to be fed with feed and begin to crawl outward into the soil to pupate. The maggots should be collected or caught in a timely manner.

There are two types of fly maggot breeding: dry and wet.

(1) Dry breeding is: spread chicken manure on plastic sheeting or cement floor, 80 cm wide, 10-15 cm high, and no limit on length. Move fly eggs or hatched larvae onto it, sprinkle water to maintain a certain humidity, and the eggs or larvae can hatch and grow.

(2) Wet breeding is: build a non-leaking pool of 30 cm deep, 60-80 cm wide and of unlimited length in a room or shed, put water in the pool, put chicken manure into it and stir it into a thick slurry, move fly eggs into it, and they will hatch into maggots and grow. Regardless of dry or wet breeding, when the fly maggots grow, the maggot manure should be cleaned up in time and replaced with new chicken manure regularly to increase production.

5. Processing and Storage of Maggots

(1) The collected or fished fly maggots should be promptly put into hot water to kill them, then fished out and sun-dried (baked), or directly mixed into corn meal and fed promptly. Wet maggots mixed into corn meal should not be left for a long time to avoid mold and deterioration.

(2) The daily output of fly maggots is high, and the moisture content can be controlled after drying, making it easy to store for a long time. When processing fly maggots, rotten and deteriorated dead maggots should be picked out to avoid affecting the quality of maggot powder.

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Related questions all

How are fly maggots cultivated?

1. Necessary conditions for fly maggot breeding: (1) Natural conditions: Temperature is a necessary condition for fly maggot breeding. When the temperature is below 20℃, flies stop breeding or enter a hibernation state, not eating or moving. Plastic sheds can only be used for seasonal breeding. In late autumn, severe winter, and early spring, the temperature is not high enough, so breeding in the shed is futile. (2) Feed for fly maggots: The feed for productive maggot breeding must be cheap waste, preferably chicken manure produced by professional chicken farmers. Calculated based on 3 catties of chicken manure to produce 1 catties of maggots, a lot of feed is needed for productive breeding. If you buy soy sauce residue, tofu residue or other waste, the cost is too high, and the result is often not worth the cost. (3) Self-consumption ability: It is best to be a professional poultry or fish farmer for productive maggot breeding, so that you can produce and consume it yourself, which can reduce the cost of poultry and fish feed and improve economic benefits. Second, the location of the breeding site. Fly maggot breeding is to a large extent harmful to hygiene. Therefore, when choosing a breeding site, pay attention to the following points: (1) Away from residential areas: Chicken manure or other waste is piled up in the yard, and adult flies enter the room to bite and crawl, affecting human health. (2) Pay attention to the perennial wind direction: Pay attention to the local perennial dominant wind direction and set up the fly maggot breeding farm on the leeward side of the chicken farm to prevent the odor from drifting into the breeding room and the chickens, affecting the healthy growth of the breeder and the chickens. (3) Away from water sources: The fly maggot breeding farm must be away from self-supplied water sources and public water sources to prevent sewage from seeping into the ground, causing water quality deterioration and affecting the water use of the chickens. (4) Waste dumping site: The fly maggot production breeding site must have a dedicated area for the dumping of chicken manure and fly maggot breeding waste to prevent environmental pollution. Third, the construction of breeding rooms and sheds The area of ​​the insulation room and shed is calculated as 1 square meter for every 1 kg of fly maggots produced. Rooms and sheds that are too large are not conducive to heat preservation, and too small cannot guarantee production. This is a major problem in maggot farming, which involves investment issues. If funds allow, a cold-proof and heat-insulating room can be built for year-round farming; if funds are insufficient, a greenhouse-style seasonal farming can be carried out. Simple outdoor farming is affected by temperature and rain. The farming time in the south is longer and that in the north is shorter. This method of farming can neither guarantee production nor harm environmental hygiene, so it is not recommended. The following points should be noted when constructing a greenhouse for productive farming: Cold-proof and heat-insulating: To ensure that the indoor temperature of the greenhouse is above 25°C, the walls of the room should be of a certain thickness, the doors and windows should be tight, and there should be heating and temperature-regulating facilities indoors. The temperature in the plastic greenhouse is too high in the summer, and it is difficult to reach 25°C in the cold season, so it is not suitable for farming. Rain and sun protection: Pay attention to rain protection when farming in the greenhouse to avoid damaging the breeding environment of maggots. In the midsummer season, pay attention to avoid exposure to the sun to prevent the maggot feed from drying and hardening and causing the maggots to die. The specific structure, scale, and shape of the room and shed can be adapted to local conditions, and there is no need to force consistency, as long as it is applicable. IV. Productive breeding management The productive breeding management of fly maggots can be roughly divided into two parts: attracting flies to lay eggs and the growth of maggots. (1) Female flies have the instinct to hatch safely, and they often lay eggs in a quiet place rich in nutrients or a sheltered place. To understand this habit of female flies, you can use plastic square plates, cans and other containers, put nutrients (meat bones, soup residue, fish viscera, watermelon rinds, wheat bran, sugar solution and other waste) in a quiet place to attract flies to lay eggs. When the eggs hatch into maggots, they can be moved into chicken manure to grow. (2) In the feeding and management of fly maggots during their growth, you must understand that after the maggots mature, they no longer eat feed and begin to crawl outward into the soil to pupate. Collect or scoop up the fly maggots in time. Fly maggot breeding can be divided into two types: dry and wet. (1) Dry breeding is: spread chicken manure on plastic cloth or cement floor, 80 cm wide, 10-15 cm high, and no length limit. After the fly eggs or hatched larvae are moved up, water is sprinkled to maintain a certain humidity, and the eggs or larvae can hatch and grow. (2) Wet breeding is: build a non-leaking pool of 30 cm deep, 60-80 cm wide and unlimited length in the room or shed, put water in the pool, add chicken manure and stir it into a thick slurry, move the fly eggs into it, and they will hatch into maggots and grow. Regardless of dry or wet breeding, when the fly maggots grow, the maggot manure should be cleaned up in time and new chicken manure should be replaced regularly to increase production. V. Processing and storage of fly maggots (1) The collected or fished fly maggots should be put into hot water to kill them in time, then fished out and dried in the sun (oven), or directly mixed into corn crushed feed and fed in time. Wet maggots mixed with corn flour should not be left for a long time to avoid mold and deterioration. (2) The daily output of fly maggots is large, and the moisture content can be controlled after drying, which is convenient for long-term storage. When processing fly maggots, pick out the rotten and deteriorated dead maggots to avoid affecting the quality of maggot powder.

Views 15 2017-12-30

How are maggots cultivated?

Five points to note when breeding flies: 1. Necessary conditions for breeding maggots: Natural conditions: Temperature is a necessary condition for breeding maggots. Below 20℃, flies stop breeding or enter hibernation, not eating and moving. Plastic sheds can only be used for seasonal breeding. In late autumn, severe winter, and early spring, the temperature is not high enough, and breeding in the shed is futile. Maggot feed: The feed for productive breeding of maggots must be cheap waste, preferably chicken manure produced by professional chicken farmers. According to the calculation of 3 jin of chicken manure for 1 jin of maggots, a lot of feed is needed for productive breeding. If you buy soy sauce residue, tofu residue or other waste, the cost is too high, and the result is often not worth the loss. Self-consumption ability: It is best to be a professional poultry or fish farmer for productive breeding of maggots, and be able to produce and consume by yourself, so as to reduce the cost of poultry and fish feed and improve economic benefits. 2. Site selection of breeding sites Fly maggot breeding is to a large extent detrimental to hygiene. Therefore, the following points should be noted when choosing a breeding site: Stay away from residential areas: Chicken manure or other waste is piled up in the yard, and adult flies enter the room to bite and crawl, affecting human health. Pay attention to the perennial wind direction: Pay attention to the local perennial dominant wind direction and set up the fly maggot breeding farm on the leeward side of the chicken farm to prevent the odor from drifting into the breeding room and the chickens, affecting the healthy growth of breeders and chickens. Stay away from water sources: The fly maggot breeding farm must be away from self-supplied water sources and public water sources to prevent sewage from seeping into the ground, causing water quality deterioration and affecting the water use of chickens. Waste dumping site: The productive breeding site for fly maggots must have a dedicated site for the stacking of chicken manure and fly maggot breeding waste to prevent environmental pollution. 3. Construction of breeding rooms and sheds The area of ​​the insulation room and shed is calculated as 1 square meter for every 1 kilogram of fly maggots produced. Rooms and sheds that are too large are not conducive to heat preservation, and too small cannot guarantee production. This is a major problem in fly maggot breeding, which involves investment issues. If funds permit, a cold-proof and heat-insulating room can be built for year-round breeding; if funds are insufficient, seasonal breeding can be carried out in a greenhouse. Simple outdoor breeding is affected by temperature and rain. The breeding time in the south is longer and that in the north is shorter. This type of breeding can neither guarantee the yield nor harm environmental hygiene, so it is not recommended. The following points should be noted when constructing a greenhouse for productive breeding: Cold-proof and heat-insulating: To ensure that the temperature in the greenhouse is above 25°C, the room walls should be of a certain thickness, the doors and windows should be tight, and there should be heating and temperature-regulating facilities indoors. The temperature in the plastic greenhouse is too high in the summer, and it is difficult to reach 25°C in the cold season, so it is not suitable for breeding. Rain and sun protection: When breeding in the greenhouse, pay attention to rain protection to avoid damaging the breeding environment of fly maggots. In the midsummer season, pay attention to avoid sun exposure to prevent the fly maggot feed from drying and hardening and causing the maggots to die. The specific structure, scale, and shape of the room and shed can be adapted to local conditions, and there is no need to force consistency, as long as it is applicable. IV. Productive breeding management The productive breeding management of fly maggots can be roughly divided into two parts: attracting flies to lay eggs and the growth of maggots. Female flies have the instinct to hatch safely, and they lay eggs in a nutrient-rich, sheltered place or a sheltered place. To understand this habit of female flies, you can use plastic square plates, cans and other containers, put nutrients (meat bones, soup residue, fish viscera, watermelon peel, wheat bran, sugar solution and other wastes) in a sheltered place to lure flies to lay eggs. When the eggs hatch into maggots, they can be moved into chicken manure to grow. In the process of feeding and managing fly maggots, you must understand that after the maggots mature, they will no longer be fed with feed and begin to crawl outward into the soil for pupation. Collect or fish out fly maggots in time. Fly maggot breeding can be divided into dry and wet methods. Dry breeding is: spread chicken manure on plastic cloth or cement floor, 80 cm wide, 10-15 cm high, and unlimited length. After moving the fly eggs or hatched maggots, sprinkle water to maintain a certain humidity, and the eggs or maggots can hatch and grow. Wet breeding is: build a non-leaking pool with a depth of 30 cm, a width of 60-80 cm and an unlimited length in the room or shed, put water in the pool, put chicken manure into it and stir it into a thick slurry, move fly eggs into it, and it will hatch into maggots and grow. Regardless of dry or wet breeding, when the fly maggots grow, the maggot manure should be cleaned in time and new chicken manure should be replaced regularly to increase production. 5. Processing and storage of fly maggots The collected or fished fly maggots should be put into hot water to kill them in time, then fished out and dried (baked), or directly mixed into corn crushed feed and fed in time. Wet maggots mixed with corn flour should not be left for a long time to avoid mold and deterioration. The daily output of fly maggots is large, and the moisture can be controlled after drying, which is convenient for long-term storage. When processing fly maggots, pick out the rotten and deteriorated dead maggots to avoid affecting the quality of maggot powder.

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How do maggots reproduce?

In rural areas, fly maggots are raised as bait for livestock and special animals. They can be produced simply by using local materials. Here are several commonly used simple methods for producing fly maggots: 1. Plastic basin (bucket) breeding method; this method can be used for small-scale production. Each plastic basin produces about 1 to 1.5 kg of fly maggots. It can feed 50 to 75 pheasants. Put fresh animal viscera, dead rats, etc. in places where there are many flies, let the flies lay eggs on them, put them in the morning and collect them in the evening, and put the collected fly eggs in a large basin with a diameter of 6 cm (or a plastic bucket with a diameter of 30 cm). Sprinkle water in the large plastic basin to keep it moist and cover it. After 2 to 3 days, the maggots will grow out. This method can be used to breed fly maggots in the wild without introducing species. When raising fly maggots, the amount of food is fed from small to large. That is, fresh chicken manure and pig manure are put into a basin at a ratio of 1:1. A plastic basin with a diameter of 60 cm is fed with 1 kg of feed per day (half the amount for barrel farming), and then sprayed with 100 ml of 3% sugar water (or waste liquid or molasses from a sugar factory). After 4 to 5 days, maggots will grow and be fed to animals. Feeding method: Pour water into the basin, stir it gently with a wooden stick, and fish out the fresh maggots floating on the water surface. After washing and disinfecting, feed the animals directly. Pour the slag water into a biogas tank or manure pit for fermentation and sterilization. If used to feed turtles, eels, and fish, the slag can be poured into the pond for feeding. 2. Outdoor ground flat breeding method This method is suitable for large-scale breeding in farms (1) Selection of breeding site. In a place far away from housing and close to livestock and poultry houses, choose a flat and compacted piece of land that is higher than the ground and does not accumulate water as the culture surface. The area of ​​a culture surface is about 4 square meters. The number of culture surfaces is determined according to the scale of breeding. (2) Making a support. Make a support that can cover the culture surface with iron or wood, 50 cm high. Cover the support with a layer of kraft paper on the top and both sides to block direct sunlight. Then surround the support with a layer of plastic cloth (the east and west sides can be opened) to make a cover to keep warm and moist. The support is the same size as the culture surface and is movable and can be moved at any time to facilitate feeding and maggot collection. (3) Spread manure on the culture surface. Use fresh chicken and pig manure, mix it in a ratio of 1:1 and spread it. Before spreading, wet it with water. The humidity should be such that no manure will flow out. Then spread the manure loosely and evenly on the culture surface. The thickness should be 5 to 10 cm. It should be thin when it is hot and thick when it is cold. Finally, move the support to the culture surface to cover the manure layer, open the plastic cloth on the east and west sides, and throw a few dead rats or 0.5 to 1 kg of animal carcasses, internal organs, fish intestines, etc. on the manure surface at the entrance to lure flies to come in and lay eggs. (4) Within 24 hours after spreading the manure, water should be sprayed several times according to the humidity requirements to keep the surface of the manure layer moist to facilitate fly egg laying and hatching. If chicken manure is used, water can be sprayed; if pig manure is used alone, 30,000 parts ammonia or ammonium carbonate can be added to the water to attract flies to lay eggs. After the flies lay eggs in the manure layer for a day and a night, the plastic sheets on the east and west sides of the support can be put down, and the surrounding area can be pressed tightly to maintain the temperature in the hood so that the fly eggs can hatch in the manure layer. (5) The fly eggs can hatch into maggots after 8 to 12 hours at 25°C. After the maggots hatch, water should still be sprayed on the manure layer according to the evaporation of water, but water should not be accumulated in the manure layer to prevent the maggots from suffocating. Use the plastic sheets on the east and west sides of the support to adjust the temperature in the hood between 20 and 25°C. In the later stage of maggot growth, the humidity of the manure layer should be reduced, and it is better to be wet inside and dry outside. (6) Maggots can be used 6 to 9 days after hatching. In principle, a large number of maggots should not be allowed to pupate. Since maggots are afraid of direct sunlight, the bracket can be removed when taking maggots, so that the sunlight can shine on the manure layer. The maggots will drill to the bottom of the manure layer, shovel off the surface manure, and then dig up the manure and maggots on the bottom layer, and let the chickens in to peck. This is the simplest way to collect maggots. After the chickens have eaten the maggots, they will gather the manure into a pile, add 50% of fresh manure and mix evenly, water and flatten it, and then breed maggots again. This method can be carried out at a temperature above 5°C. When the temperature is below 10°C, 20% horse manure is added to ferment and heat up. If 500 grams of fly maggots are produced per square meter, each chicken needs 20 grams per day, and 4 square meters of culture area can produce one cycle to feed 100 chickens for one day. 3. Soy milk blood water single cylinder breeding method This method is suitable for special breeding in urban seedling markets or food processing factories that engage in breeding, and is used when a small amount of fly maggots are produced. First, place a large jar in a place where there are many flies, grind 500 grams of soybeans into soy milk and pour it into the jar, then add 10 kilograms of water and mix well, then pour in 2.5-3 kilograms of fresh pig blood or cow blood, and then add 5 kilograms of rice washing water and mix well, let the flies come to the jar to feed and lay eggs, so as to catch fly maggots to feed animals, and one feeding can be used continuously for 2-3 months. The requirement of this maggot breeding method is that 40-50 kilograms of soy milk and blood water should be kept in the jar, and attention should be paid to adding when the soy milk and blood water evaporates less; in addition, the jar must be placed in a place where there are many flies. 4. Multi-jar feces and urine circulation breeding method This method is suitable for small feed farms, small fish ponds and seedling farms. Take 12 earthenware jars that can hold 30 kilograms of water, place them in two rows in a place where there are many flies, and number them 1 to 12 in order. On the first day, put 1 kg of fresh chicken manure, 1 kg of fresh pig manure, 500 g of human urine, 2 dead rats (frogs) or 250 g of animal carrion and viscera in tank No. 1, and add urine water every day to keep it moist. On the second day, put tank No. 2 according to the method and quantity of the first day, put tank No. 3 on the third day, and so on. After putting 12 tanks, on the 13th day, pour the adult maggots in tank No. 1 together with the feces into the pond to feed the fish. If feeding livestock, water can be poured into the tank to let the maggots float to the surface of the water, and then fished out for feeding. Then pour out the feces water, wash the tank, and re-feed according to the method of the first day. Take the second tank on the 14th day, and the third tank on the 15th day. This rotation is repeated over and over again, and fresh fly maggots are continuously obtained as livestock and poultry feed and animal live bait. 5. Platform introduction pool breeding method, this method is suitable for small-scale farms. (1) Build several small square cement pools of 1 square meter in size and 5 centimeters in depth. Build a 200-centimeter feeding platform at the edge of the pool, then fill the pool with water. The water level should be slightly lower than the feeding platform. Build a 1.5-2 meter high sunshade and rain shelter on the top of the pool. (2) Place 500 grams of discarded meat, skin, intestines or viscera from the slaughterhouse on the feeding platform. You can also place 300 grams of dead rats, rabbits and other animal carcasses to attract flies to feed and lay eggs. (3) Place the culture medium that has been placed on the platform for 2-3 days in the pool water and stir it a few times to shake off the maggots and fly eggs attached to it into the water. Then put the culture medium back on the platform to attract flies to lay eggs again. (4) Place 2 kilograms of fresh pig and chicken manure, or 4 kilograms of human manure, in each pool. After 24 hours of feeding, wait until the maggots have decomposed the floating manure and then add more feed. (5) After 4 to 8 days of breeding in the pond, if you see adult maggots crawling to the edge of the pond, catch them in time to prevent them from escaping. Use a colander or gauze to scoop out the adult maggots, wash them with clean water, and feed them while they are fresh. (6) Clean the pond. When the insoluble dirt layer at the bottom of the pond exceeds 15 cm, which affects the catching of adult maggots, you can remove the dirt at the bottom of the pond after catching all the maggots at one time, and add new water. Build 24 ponds, feed 2 ponds every day, and use the circulating feeding method. The daily production of fresh maggots is 6 kg, which can be used to feed 12 pigs or 300 chickens. 6. Pond side hanging basin breeding method: 1 meter away from the pond bank, set up rows of brackets, and hang a 40-meter diameter basin in a row on the surface of the breeding pond for special economic animals every 1 to 2 meters, with the basin about 20 cm above the water surface. Fill a basin with equal amounts of pig and chicken manure, add water to wet it, sprinkle a few drops of ammonia, and then put a few dead fish or dead mice on the surface of the basin to lure flies to lay eggs. Houseflies or other wild flies will fly into the basin to feed and lay eggs. After a week, maggots will crawl out of the basin and fall into the water, which will be directly eaten by animals in the pond. This method has simple equipment and easy operation. 2 kg of manure can produce 500 grams of fresh maggots. There are several points to note in the specific operation: First, the basin should not be too deep, preferably 10 to 15 cm; second, it is best to use a plastic basin, open 2 to 3 drainage holes at the bottom of the basin to prevent water accumulation in the basin when it rains heavily; third, after the basin is filled with manure, it is best to cover 3/4 of the basin surface with lotus leaves or kraft paper, leaving 1/4 of the basin surface for dead animals to lure flies, so that blocking the sun is beneficial to the growth and development of maggots; fourth, the water evaporates quickly in the high temperature in summer, so it is necessary to check and water frequently to keep the culture medium moist. 7. Outdoor earthen pond breeding method This method is suitable for farming in forest areas and cultivated areas near reservoirs, and is combined with breeding in fertilizer piles and manure pits at the end of the field. Choose a place that is leeward, sunny, high in terrain, dry and warm to dig an earthen pond with a specification of 2 meters long, 1 meter wide and 0.6 meters deep, put in livestock and poultry manure, straw, sugarcane bagasse, water and mix it for fermentation, and then put in dead fish, dead animal viscera and other smelly things. Cover it with wooden boards, and set a 0.3-meter square movable glass window on the wooden boards to let adult flies fly in to feed and lay eggs. Pay attention to digging drainage ditches around the outside of the pool, and no water can accumulate in the pool. After feeding, lift the wooden board cover every 7 to 10 days, dig up the surface manure layer, drive chickens and ducks to the pit to feed, or shovel the manure and maggots into a bucket together, and pour it into the pond or reservoir to feed the fish. 8. Outdoor plastic shed maggot breeding method: dig a shallow pit of 5 meters long, 0.8 meters wide and 0.25 meters deep between the rows of fruit trees or under the shade of trees, lay a thick film in the pit, inject 15 cm deep manure water, put 2 dan of chicken manure, 2 dan of pig manure, 1 dan of cow manure, and 1500 grams of dead rats or animal carrion and viscera in each pit. Sprinkle some quicklime and plant ash along the edge of the pit to prevent adult maggots from escaping. Then use bamboo strips to make a 1-meter-high semicircular bracket on the pit, cover it with plastic film, and compact the surrounding plastic film with soil. Open a 20 cm × 30 cm hole on the middle side and both ends to let flies fly in to feed and lay eggs. After 5 to 7 days, you can lift the plastic film to catch the maggots and wash them as bait. 9. Fertilizing fruit trees and breeding maggots: This method combines maggot breeding with fertilizing fruit trees, which is suitable for raising poultry between fruit trees. The specific operation is as follows: in young orchards, dig a circular ditch 40 to 50 cm away from the tree, with a width of 20 to 30 cm and a depth of 30 cm. Put a load of fresh pig and chicken manure in each ditch, and then put some dead rats, animal viscera or pig hair and blood to attract flies to lay eggs. Pay attention to watering every day to keep it moist. After 3 days, cover the manure with turf. After a week, lift the turf and let the chickens into the garden to dig up the manure and eat maggots. Then cover it again, and after a week, open it again to feed the chickens. After repeating this 4 to 5 times, there will be fewer maggots temporarily, and the maggot breeding ditch can be covered with soil to complete the fruit tree fertilization. In mature orchards, dig 3 to 4 symmetrical point-shaped maggot breeding pits along the tree canopy, with specifications of 0.8 meters long, 0.4 meters wide and 35 cm deep. Indoor vertical maggot breeding method (1) Prepare 12 large plastic basins with a diameter of 60 cm and 8 small plastic bowls for a production group. Set up a wooden or iron frame with a length of 1.3 meters, a width of 0.6 meters, and a height of 1.5 meters in the room. The frame is divided into 5 layers, each layer is 26 cm high, and two plastic basins are placed on each layer, with a total of 12 large plastic basins including the top layer. (2) Put 5 kg of fresh pig and chicken manure, 1 kg of human urine (or 5% carbon ammonia water), and 500 grams of 3% sugar water (or sugar factory waste liquid) in each basin. (3) Place 8 plastic egg-collecting bowls containing 250 grams of dead rats, rotten meat, and animal viscera in the pig farm or in places with many flies to attract flies to feed and lay eggs. After 2 to 3 days, rinse the fly eggs and larvae with clean water and put them in two plastic basins respectively. Inoculate two basins every day. After 5 to 6 days of cultivation in the plastic basin, fresh maggots can be separated as bait.

20 Views 2547 2017-11-26

How to breed maggots?

Fly maggot breeding technology: 1. Construction of breeding facilities 1. Construction of fly breeding room The fly breeding room is specially used to raise adult flies, that is, flies. Generally, 20 to 40 square meters are enough. You can use the old house for renovation, which can also save costs. The house should be equipped with screen doors and screen windows to prevent flies from escaping. If breeding in winter, heating equipment is required, preferably a heater, and air conditioning can also be installed if conditions permit. The indoor air is required to be fresh and the light is more than 10 hours a day. Most flies are raised in cages. Cage breeding not only takes up less space, but most importantly, it does not pollute the environment. We can set up a breeding rack in the fly breeding room. The breeding rack is made of wood and can be divided into two layers. Each layer of the breeding rack is placed with a fly cage made of nylon gauze, and the fly cage is fixed on the rack like a mosquito net. The cage is 100 cm long, 40 cm wide and 80 cm high. The breeding flies are kept in the cage; at the same time, a working opening with a diameter of 30 cm is left in the middle and lower part of the fly cage. The working opening should be made into a cylindrical tube with white cloth for feeding, watering and taking and placing the egg-laying pad. In addition, a piece of nylon gauze can be hung in the middle of the cage to increase the habitat area of ​​adult flies. The bottom of the cage is supported on a small flat plate. In addition, each fly cage should be equipped with a feed tray (a plastic dish with a diameter of 15-20 cm), a water tray (25 cm x 15 cm x 6 cm), an eclosion tray (40 cm x 30 cm x 8 cm) and an egg tray for egg-laying objects (40 cm x 30 cm x 8 cm). 2. Construction of maggot breeding room The maggot breeding room is mainly used to breed fly maggots for seed preservation. The room temperature is required to be 20~28℃, and the humidity is 65%~70%. Other indoor breeding facilities should be determined according to the breeding method adopted, such as setting up multi-layer breeding racks, maggot breeding basins and heating equipment. Generally, these facilities are placed on both sides, leaving a pedestrian walkway in the middle, which can fully utilize the space and facilitate operation and management. 3. Construction of maggot breeding greenhouses Maggot breeding greenhouses are specially used to cultivate fly maggots used as protein feed. It can be built into a simple shed as long as it is windproof and waterproof. The maggot breeding pool can be designed as this long strip pool or a small rectangular pool. If it is a long strip pool, the length is not limited, and the width is about 1.2 meters. The two long sides are set with a certain slope, the angle is 45 degrees, and the two long sides must have 11-20 cm grooves, and the groove height is about 8-10 cm. This is to facilitate the collection of fly maggots in the future. If it is a small rectangular pool, the area is usually 3-4 square meters. There are slopes and grooves on all four sides. The setting requirements of the slope and groove can be operated with reference to the long strip pool. The only difference is that you can bury a maggot collection bucket at the corner of this pool, and the edge of the bucket should be slightly higher than the bottom of the pool, which is also for the convenience of collecting maggots. After the breeding facilities are built, you can then cultivate fly maggots. 2. Cultivation of fly maggots The specific operation steps for cultivating fly maggots can be divided into the following aspects (chart): hatching of pupae → breeding of fly species → collecting egg masses → centralized hatching → breeding in separate trays (partial seed retention) → separation of fly maggots → cultivation of fly maggots → utilization of fresh maggots → repeated cycle production. 1. Cultivation of fly species Put the purchased fly species into the eclosion tray. Basically, 10,000 fly species are about 150 grams. Usually, a 40 cm long, 30 cm wide, and 8 cm high eclosion tray can hold up to 750 grams of fly species. 2. Hatching of pupae Put the eclosion tray into the fly cage and tie the working port tightly. As long as the appropriate temperature and humidity are guaranteed, the fly species can eclode into flies after 3-4 days. Generally, the most suitable temperature for fly species is 25℃-30℃, and the relative humidity of the air is preferably 50%-80%. If the temperature is low in winter, you should turn on the heater to increase the temperature, and you can also turn on the air conditioner if conditions permit. If the temperature is around 36 degrees, the flies will be able to emerge in two days. When the flies are found to have emerged, you should place the feed tray and water basin. Flies, like other animals, also need enough protein, sugar and water to maintain life and reproduction. Under artificial breeding conditions, we use 50% milk powder and 50% sugar, of which some expired sugar cubes can be used, which can also save costs. Put sugar and milk powder in two feed trays respectively; and put a sponge of the same size and thickness of 2 cm in the water basin, and then add water on the same plane as the sponge on the sponge to prevent the flies from falling into the water and drowning when drinking water. In addition, in order to promote the development of flies and mate and lay eggs, water, sugar and milk powder should be added in time to ensure sufficient nutrition for flies. At the same time, in order to increase the egg production, you can feed one-third of raw eggs to each cage every day from the time the flies emerge, and feed them for three consecutive days to achieve the best results. When feeding eggs, it is best to cover the surface of the eggs in the feed tray with a layer of gauze to prevent flies from sticking to them when eating. During this period, not only the temperature and humidity should be guaranteed, but also appropriate light, because appropriate light can stimulate adult flies to feed and lay eggs. Generally, the light exposure for adult flies is 10-11 hours a day. Natural light can be used on sunny days, and fluorescent or incandescent lamps should be used on rainy days and when the light is relatively dark. Turn off the lights at night and let them rest. The breeding fly room should be ventilated frequently to keep the indoor air fresh. On the fourth day after the adult insects emerge from the egg mass, you can see flies mating, and on the fifth day they can lay eggs. Therefore, generally on the fourth day, egg-catching objects should be placed in the fly cage in time. Egg-catching objects are solid feeds used to lure flies to come and lay eggs. This type of feed is nutritionally comprehensive, can meet the nutritional needs of flies, and has a strong attraction to flies. We usually choose wheat bran as the egg-laying material. But before using the wheat bran, it must be moistened first. Just add clean water to the wheat bran so that it can drip water and can be loosened when put down. Spread a layer of the adjusted wheat bran in the egg-laying basin with a thickness of about 1 cm. The four corners should be slightly thicker, about 2-3 cm. Put the egg-laying material into the fly cage. After mating, flies will naturally lay eggs on the wheat bran. The eggs of flies are white, and milk powder is also white, so after starting to lay eggs, you only need to add sugar to the feed tray instead of milk powder, in order to prevent flies from laying eggs on milk powder and delaying egg-laying. Most of the breeding flies lay eggs around 8 am and 3 pm, so eggs should be collected once a day at 12 noon and 4 pm. When taking out the egg-laying tray from the fly cage, you need to put in a new egg-laying material so that the flies can lay eggs in the egg-laying tray in time. Around the egg tray, we can see white egg masses laid by flies. The eggs are oval and about 1 mm long. At this time, we should take the egg tray to the maggot breeding room for breeding in time. At the same time, we should quickly cover the surface with some wet bran, which can not only prevent the flies trapped in the tray from escaping, but also prevent the egg masses exposed outside from drying up because the fly eggs like a humid environment. The flies will die naturally after about a month and can be discarded. 3. Breeding of maggots When the fly eggs are taken to the maggot breeding room for breeding, as long as the appropriate temperature and humidity are guaranteed, fat and large fly maggots can be cultivated. The development time of the concentrated egg hatching period is 12-24 hours, and the specific hatching time will be shortened as the temperature rises: (chart) When the temperature is 20℃-22℃, the hatching time of the fly eggs is 24 hours; at 25℃, the hatching time is 16-18 hours; at 28℃, it takes 14 hours; at 35℃, it only takes 8-10 hours. When the temperature is reached, the most suitable humidity for egg hatching is 75%-80%. In actual production, we usually keep the temperature at 20℃-22℃. After 24 hours, the eggs become very small larvae with a high density. At this time, if they are used for seed preservation, then in order to prevent the density from being too high and the nutrition from being insufficient, the maggots need to be divided in time. If they are not used for seed preservation, there is no need to divide the trays. Now, let's take a look at how maggots for seed preservation are cultivated. Divided tray feeding (partial seed preservation) Generally, the number of flies in each cage is about 50,000. We can divide the eggs laid by each cage into three parts for feeding. This practice is also called "dividing trays". The purpose is to prevent the larvae from growing up and becoming maggots, and their development will not be affected by the high density. The specific operation method is: take three feeding basins, put about 3 cm thick wet wheat bran in each basin (subtitles-wheat bran is also mixed with water), and then put one-third of the small larvae in the egg tray together with the wheat bran in each feeding basin for feeding. As the larvae grow up, the second tray division is required after another 24 hours. The method of dividing the trays is the same as the first time, and each tray is divided into three portions. During the breeding process, every 24 hours, check whether the wheat bran in the culture basin has been eaten by the maggots. If it is found to be lacking, wheat bran should be added in time to prevent nutritional deficiency. Generally, after four days of breeding, the fly maggots are basically mature, the body is transparent or slightly yellow, they will no longer eat feed, and their activity ability is weakened. At this time, the maggots should be separated from the wheat bran. Fly maggot separation Under daily light, pour the maggots in the breeding basin together with the wheat bran into the separation box. The maggots themselves are afraid of light, so they keep drilling in. Through the peristalsis of the maggots, the waste residue is automatically discharged to the periphery. We only need to scrape off the surface wheat bran layer by layer with a wooden board, and the mature maggots can be separated from the wheat bran. Collect the separated maggots in the breeding tray. Here, in order to absorb and dry the moisture on the maggots and prevent them from escaping, a small amount of dry wheat bran should be added to the feeding tray and stirred evenly until each maggot becomes granular. In this way, the maggots can also be prompted to pupate as soon as possible. The separated maggots can be kept for seed or eaten. The maggots used for seed can be placed on the culture rack at a temperature of 20℃-30℃, and they will become pupae after 1-2 days. You see, these pupae are the fly species you have cultivated. With these fly species, you can repeat the production cycle. After the maggots are separated, the remaining waste residue still contains rich nutrients, and we can reuse them, for example, as feed for pig farming. When using, you can first mix the waste residue with pig feed and then feed it, or you can feed it directly. When the eggs grow into larvae, if they are not used for seed, they can be directly taken to the maggot breeding plastic shed for breeding. The bred fly maggots can be used as a good protein feed to feed poultry or aquatic products. Before releasing the larvae, first, place the culture medium in the maggot pool. The most suitable culture medium is pig manure or chicken manure. (Subtitles--The culture medium selected is required to be drip-free) Pour the manure into the pool, and then use a shovel to pile the manure flat until it is piled into a strip with a thickness of 10-20 cm and a width of about 50 cm. Next, pour the cultured small larvae on the manure. Basically, pour the larvae hatched from two fly cages per square meter. The small larvae absorb the manure to enhance their nutrition in the maggot pool. After about 24 hours, if the nutrients in the manure are mostly absorbed by the fly maggots, they must be supplemented in time, just pile some manure on top. After about four days, the maggots have matured, the manure has been loosened, and the nutrients have been completely absorbed by the fly maggots. Since the mature maggots like to climb to higher places, most of them will crawl into the ditch or the maggot collection bucket. You just need to collect them. Fresh maggots are rich in protein and can be used as high-protein feed to feed pheasants, wild ducks, or feed fish and eels, etc. This can also improve the disease resistance of farmed animals and aquatic products. The feces left after breeding fly maggots can also be used as organic fertilizer to grow grain and vegetables. 3. Daily management During the breeding process, attention should be paid to daily management. Every day, timely add fly feed, place egg-laying objects, change drinking water, etc. At the same time, the hatching time of eggs should be recorded in time to facilitate timely egg collection. After the staff leave their posts, the floor hygiene of the fly room and maggot breeding room should be cleaned. The food tray for feeding flies should be cleaned every two days, including sponges. The sponge should be replaced every month. In addition, houseflies are important sanitary pests. In all aspects of feeding management, it is necessary to control feeding work to prevent the breeding population from entering the natural environment. With the development of livestock, poultry and aquaculture, the demand for protein feed is also increasing. Breeding fly maggots has the advantages of short cycle, high yield and low cost, and is currently the first choice for producing animal protein feed. A livestock and poultry farm with a maggot farm is equivalent to building an insect protein feed production plant. The feces discharged by livestock and poultry are used to feed maggots, thereby obtaining high-protein feed, turning waste into treasure and harm into benefit. The feces after breeding maggots can be used as high-quality organic fertilizer for crops and used to grow grains and vegetables. This special conversion function is beyond the reach of other feed insects.