CATDOLL : CATDOLL: My parrot fish has a swollen belly. Is it suffering from enteritis?

1. My parrot fish has a swollen belly. Is it suffering from enteritis?

Is it a female parrot fish? It may be pregnant.

Of course, the possibility of enteritis is also high.

If it is enteritis, it can be treated like this:

There are many ways to treat enteritis. There are also many drugs on the market, such as oral drugs such as Nacobacterium, Yufukang, and Sulfaguanidine, and external drugs such as Yujunjie, Nitrofuracil, Gentamycin, Oxytetracycline, and Furazolidone. After dilution, the drugs can be sprayed or immersed in the bath, which can achieve good results. Increase water changes, keep the water quality stable, and try feeding various antibiotics.

Gentomycin + furazolidone are more effective. Change one-third of the water every two days to replenish the medicine. Put four vials of gentamicin in a 1-meter fish tank. Enteritis is difficult to treat, so be patient.

If you have other symptoms, you can check out my space:

2. Does parrot fish have enteritis when it poops white? My parrot pooped white poop this morning and it was still dragging.

White stripes! It means enteritis! Stop eating! Take medicine!

3. Can you help me analyze whether the map fish has enteritis? I raised two map fish with a parrot. I found that the parrot ovulated last night, but I didn't care. I fed the fish in the morning.

I tried to eat the eggs of the parrot fish last night, but was beaten by the female parrot fish. I was so scared that I dared not come out. According to your description, these problems will not occur. I feed them like this every day. Such a big fish will not eat too much. Don't stop feeding. You can feed less. If it is enteritis, there must be symptoms of enteritis. Check it out.

4. Parrot fish is sick...

It may be. White spot disease is a highly contagious external parasitic disease.

(1) Pathogen: Ichthyophthirius multifida (parasite). Transmission route: Daphnia, diseased fish, and contaminated tools are the No. 1 disease of tropical fish. Tropical fish are more susceptible to white spot disease than goldfish. The fluctuating water temperature is the cause of this disease and is also the reason why beginners often fail. When the tropical fish breeding industry first emerged in Europe, it was wiped out by this disease. Timely detection, early treatment, early isolation, enhanced disinfection, and maintaining constant temperature are effective ways to prevent this disease. White spot disease is divided into three stages: early, middle, and late. The course of the disease is 5 to 7 days, and each stage is 2 to 3 days. It often causes a large number of fish to die quickly, and the mortality rate can reach 60% to 70%.

(2) Symptoms: In the early stage, there are individual small white spots on the fins and body, the fish has an appetite, and the spirit is not much changed. In the middle stage, the fins and body are covered with white spots, the fish has no appetite, is not active, scratches everywhere, and the color becomes darker. In the late stage, white spots are all over the body, the fish floats on the water or sinks to the bottom of the tank. The fish is weak, sways from side to side, the mucous membrane on the body surface increases, breathing is difficult, and the fish suffocates to death.

(3) Treatment: This disease requires comprehensive treatment. Using only medicine will not be very effective. It is important to strengthen feeding and management. First, stop feeding for 4 to 5 days, reduce pollution, keep the water temperature constant, and preferably raise the temperature 2 to 3 degrees Celsius higher than the original water temperature. In the absence of aquatic plants, appropriate medication can be applied. Aquatic plants are sensitive to various drugs and die quickly. Commonly used prescriptions for tropical fish are as follows: Reference prescription 1: In the early stage, 0.5% to 1% salt can be added, which can achieve certain results. Reference prescription 2: In the early and middle stages, 1 to 5 ppm furazolidone powder can be sprinkled throughout the tank. Dip a matchstick in methyl blue crystal powder and rinse it into the sick fish tank until it changes color. Both have good effects. Reference prescription 3: In the early and middle stages, put red mercury into the water until it turns light red. It has a good effect in eliminating pathogens, but it cannot be used repeatedly because mercury is toxic and is not easy for fish to excrete. Reference prescription 4: In the middle and late stages, the specific drug is mercurous nitrate, but fish are very sensitive to this drug and it can easily cause death, so it is generally not used. A piece the size of a mung bean can be placed in a 90×45×60 (cm) box. This medicine cannot be used repeatedly.

5. Parrot fish is sick

What the previous speakers said makes sense, and the treatment method is fine, but I think that the fish that are still alive are also in danger. White hair disease is a highly contagious fish disease. Although it can be treated, it requires proper methods, not just the right medicine. The living environment of the fish must be fully improved. I suggest that all the remaining fish be transferred to another tank for treatment, the vacated fish tank and its configuration be thoroughly disinfected, and a complete water system be re-established to prepare for the return of the fish after treatment.

The reason for this is that the fish will be kept in the original tank for a long time. When the fish are already in a very unhealthy state, the possibility of survival is low. The medicine in the tank cannot sterilize the whole tank. Therefore, this method can neither cure the fish nor prepare for the next step of breeding.

Fish treatment method: Keep the sick fish in a temporary fish tank (of course, the tank must be disinfected and cleaned, and filled with fresh water that has been cooled and dried). When treating, prepare the treatment solution in another container, scoop the sick fish into the solution and soak it for about 20 minutes, then scoop the fish back into the temporary fish tank. The treatment frequency can be once a day. After a week, the fish will recover and be put back into the original fish tank. But how many of them can return depends on their luck.

Sterilization and disinfection of the original tank: After removing the sick fish, clear all the water in the tank and clean it (including all the equipment). Refill with new water and add enough salt (as long as it can be dissolved). After soaking for one day, replace all with new water and start the pump for circulation. After three days, add fish to the tank. After a week, gradually establish a nitrification system and slowly add fish in appropriate amounts. (This is the procedure for rebuilding the tank, so I won’t go into details here.) Of course, potassium permanganate can also be used for sterilization and disinfection.

In addition, putting the newly bought fish into the tank is a very important step. At least sterilization should be carried out. I think there is something wrong with the steps of putting the fish in the tank, which has caused such a tragic situation. I suggest you read more about fish breeding on Baidu, which will be helpful for future breeding.

If you have any questions, you can contact me and we can analyze and study together.

6. The parrot fish I feed gets sick every few months. What is the reason?

1. Parrot fish often get sick due to poor water quality. It is recommended to stop feeding for a short period of time for treatment. On the one hand, it is to improve the water quality, and on the other hand, it is to promote the metabolism of sick fish. Feeding will increase the metabolic burden of fish, especially enteritis diseases.

2. Common diseases and treatments of parrot fish:

1. Characteristics and treatment of skin fungus diseases.

(1) Skin mold disease, also known as water mold disease and white hair disease, is one of the most common diseases of ornamental fish. The pathogens are species such as Saprolegnia, Acanthoclase, Heterostys, Aphanomyces, and Pythium. When catching and transporting ornamental fish, if you are not careful, the fish skin will be injured, or parasites will invade and damage the skin. The spores of the mold will invade the wound, absorb nutrients, and germinate rapidly. One end of the hyphae will penetrate into the muscle and the other end will grow outward, forming cotton-like hyphae. When the mold first parasitizes, it is difficult to see with the naked eye. By the time you can see it with the naked eye, the hyphae have already invaded the wound of the fish and grown from the outside to the inside. The hyphae entangle and adhere to the cell tissue of the wound, causing tissue necrosis. As the cotton-like hyphae increase day by day, the fish body is overloaded, causing abnormal swimming, loss of appetite, and gradual weight loss, leading to death. When ornamental fish are infected with mold, they are also affected by the length of light exposure. A long period of continuous rain or insufficient indoor lighting or sunlight can promote the growth of mold. The fish infected with mold usually has a layer of white film on its skin, especially black and red fish, which makes the fish lose its luster. Then the fish will become sluggish and often appear sluggish, floating on the water surface. If not treated in time, the mold will spread on the fish, the muscles of the affected area will rot, the appetite will be lost, and eventually death will occur.

(2) Treatment methods: Dermatophytosis can occur throughout the year, but is most common in early spring and late winter. To prevent the occurrence of saprolegniasis, care should be taken to avoid damaging the fish and parasite bites during operation, and a small amount of salt can be added to the water to inhibit the occurrence of saprolegniasis. When the fish is found to be infected with Saprolegniasis, it can be washed with 3% salt water once a day for 5 to 10 minutes each time, or soaked in 2 parts per million (2ppm) potassium permanganate solution plus 1% salt for 20 to 30 minutes, or soaked in 1 to 2 parts per million (1 to 2ppm) malachite green solution for 20 to 30 minutes, or soaked in 1 to 2 parts per million (1 to 2ppm) methylene blue solution for 20 to 30 minutes, or soaked in 5 parts per million (5ppm) furazolidone solution, or directly splashed into the aquarium with 0.02 parts per million (0.02ppm) malachite green solution and 0.3 parts per million (0.3ppm) formaldehyde solution to inhibit the growth of mold. The water temperature can also be raised to inhibit the growth of Saprolegniasis. Installing a 15-watt ultraviolet lamp on the top of the aquarium and irradiating it for several hours a day can effectively inhibit or eliminate the growth of Saprolegniasis.

2. White spot disease.

(1) The pathogen of white spot disease is Ichthyophthirius punctatus. Tropical fish can be infected all year round, with high morbidity and mortality. Symptoms and lesions: In the early stage of the disease, white spots are scattered on the pectoral fins, dorsal fins, caudal fins and skin. Although the diseased fish feed as usual, they often gather at the corners of the fish tank and rub against each other. After a few days, white spots cover the whole body, and the diseased fish often float on the water in a sluggish state.

(2) Treatment method: Raise the water temperature to 28 degrees Celsius. After a few days, the Ichthyophthirius will break and fall off. At this time, replace the water with new water and maintain the water temperature. The sick fish will basically recover. Use 0.05% to 0.07% red mercuric solution and soak the fish in water for 5 to 15 minutes for 2 to 3 days. The effect is good. Soak the fish in salt for 24 hours. The effect will be seen after a few days.