CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How to improve the survival rate of goose and ducklings in cold weather?

1. How to improve the survival rate of goose and ducklings in cold weather?

Let me answer the question of how to improve the survival rate of goose and ducklings in cold weather.

Precautions for improving the survival rate of ducks and geese in winter:

1. Temperature.

The general temperature requirement is 27-28℃ for 1-5 days old, 25-26℃ for 6-10 days old, 22-24℃ for 11-15 days old, and 20-22℃ for 16-21 days old. The temperature for brooding chicks in early spring can be higher, and the temperature at night is 1-2℃ higher than that during the day. The temperature can be flexibly controlled. Suitable humidity. Although geese are waterfowl, they are afraid of damp pens, and goslings are even more afraid of dampness. Especially as the goslings grow older, the amount of food they eat and defecation increases, and the humidity will be greater. For this reason, in daily management, it is necessary to prevent drinking water from overflowing, keep the ground dry, and change and dry the straw frequently. The relative humidity should generally be maintained at around 60%.

2. Ventilation and density.

If the stocking density is too high, the geese will be crowded, the strong and weak will not eat evenly, the development of the goslings will be polarized, and pecking will occur easily. If the stocking density is too low, it will be good for survival and development, but it will be bad for heat preservation, and the utilization rate of the house will be low. Generally, the stocking density is 25/m2 for 1-5 days old, 20/m2 for 6-10 days old, 15-12/m2 for 11-15 days old, and 10-8/m2 for 16-20 days old.

Goslings grow and develop quickly, have a vigorous metabolism, and excrete a large amount of carbon dioxide and feces, producing harmful gases such as moisture, hydrogen sulfide and ammonia. If they are not discharged in time, they will affect the healthy development of the goslings and easily induce diseases. In production, attention is paid to heat preservation and ventilation is neglected, resulting in polluted air in the chick house and deteriorating environment. For this reason, doors and windows should be opened for ventilation at noon when the temperature is high, but there should be no draughts, and the wind entering the house should not be allowed to blow directly on the geese to prevent them from catching cold and catching a cold.

Goose and ducklings can only be kept warm indoors when the weather is cold. Generally, infrared spotlights are used for warmth. 1. Brooding temperature: The newly hatched ducklings have poor body temperature regulation ability and must be well kept warm. The brooding temperature for 1 to 3 days old is 30℃~32℃, and the temperature drops by 1℃ every 2 days thereafter. When the house temperature drops to a temperature close to the outside temperature, stop heating. 2. Brooding density in the house: When the ducklings are 1 to 7 days old, there are 20 to 40 chicks per square meter for ground brooding and 40 to 60 chicks per square meter for online brooding. 3. Timely drinking water and feeding: 12 to 24 hours after the ducklings hatch, give them drinking water and feeding in time. The waterer should be sufficient and evenly distributed. If necessary, artificial watering should be adjusted. 1 to 2 hours after the ducklings drink water, soften the full-price high-quality duck feed (chicken feed can be used instead of 1 to 3 days old) with water, and evenly sprinkle it on the feed tray or plastic cloth to induce them to eat. After all of them can forage normally, use the feed trough to feed freely. 4. Light: Ducklings eat less, have strong digestive ability, grow fast, and feed continuously day and night, so the brooding house should have sufficient light, and electric lights should be on at night to allow them to feed 24 hours a day. 5. Pay attention to ventilation: The ventilation in the brooding house should be good to prevent the concentration of ammonia and carbon dioxide in the house from being too high, which may induce disease and cause poisoning.

Preparation before brooding Before brooding, you must make sure that there is sufficient sunlight in the brooding room, and that the temperature, ventilation, safety and hygiene meet the standards. The brooding room must be disinfected. In addition, ducklings should be selected. The gosling stage is very critical in the life of meat geese, and its body...

Preparation before brooding

Before brooding, you must be well prepared to ensure that there is sufficient sunlight in the brooding room, and that the temperature, ventilation, safety and hygiene meet the standards. The brooding room must be disinfected, and ducklings should be selected. The gosling stage is very critical in the life of meat geese, and its body is relatively fragile at this stage. You should be careful about food, temperature and humidity, and have a certain degree of patience with the goslings to increase their survival rate.

Management during brooding

First of all, we must ensure that there is sufficient drinking water. About 24 hours after the ducklings hatch, most of the goslings will automatically stand up and have the desire to eat. At this time, you should be careful not to feed them. They should drink water first. You can put water in the brooding room to allow the goslings to move freely and drink water. A small amount of glucose or vitamins should be added to the water, which is conducive to cleaning their stomachs and allowing the meconium in the stomach to be discharged. During the drinking process, the water source must be sufficient, and the water quality must be kept clean. Every gosling should be able to drink water. You can also add drugs to prevent dysentery in the water, which can effectively prevent diarrhea.

After drinking water, you can start feeding. When starting to feed, you can sprinkle the feed on the plastic sheet and let the goslings peck at it freely. Although it is not recommended for goslings to eat too much for the first time, you must ensure that every gosling can eat food. The initial feed can be clean green feed, such as lettuce leaves or bitter melon, chop them up and mix them with rice. After three days, you can add 17% of green grass or green vegetables to the initial feed and let the goslings eat freely. It should be noted that you cannot feed the goslings dry food. It must be mixed wet before feeding. This can prevent death from abdominal distension due to thirst after eating too much water.

Within three days after the goslings hatch, they can be fed some concentrated feed and green feed appropriately, with the ratio of concentrated feed to green feed being 1:3. When they grow to about 10 days old, the ratio is 1:10, and after 10 days old, the ratio is 1:15. The number of feedings per day can also be appropriately increased according to the daily growth rate. When feeding, they can be given water first, and then fed. Only by feeding them at regular times and in fixed quantities can the goslings grow better, and they should eat small meals frequently, and the number of times they eat feed should be about 6 times a day.

When the goslings are about two weeks old, they can be grazed. The first grazed should be done in the morning when the weather is relatively clear. They should be fed some feed before grazed. After they are half full, they can be driven out of the brooding room and allowed to roam freely on the grass. They can be grazed twice a day, each time for about 30 minutes. After the first grazed, they should be grazed every day, and the frequency and time of grazed should increase with their age.

When the goslings are 20 days old, if the temperature is warm, they can be grazed all day, but during this period, they should also be fed with concentrated feed in time. When grazing, they must stay away from water sources to avoid heat stroke. Also, if the weather is cold, or there are cloudy, rainy, windy and bad weather, in order to prevent the goslings from getting sick, the grazing time should be arranged reasonably.

During the brooding stage, in order to prevent the occurrence of crushing or death, and to ensure the normal growth and development of each gosling, appropriate grouping should be carried out, and appropriate differentiation can be made according to the size of the goose and the strength of its body. The first differentiation should be made before the water is boiled, and the grouping should be carried out two days after the start. After that, appropriate observation should be made every day. The density should be well controlled. For ducklings within 7 days of age, 25 ducklings can be raised per square meter, for ducklings within 15 days of age, only 15 ducklings can be raised per square meter, and after 15 days of age, 10 ducklings can be raised per square meter. Only by controlling the density well can the ducklings grow better.

Daily preventive measures

1. Strengthen feeding management and enhance the disease resistance of ducks. This is the fundamental condition for raising ducks well and the basis for good epidemic prevention. Careful feeding is required to ensure that the feed is properly matched, the nutrition is complete, the feeding is timely, and the diet is clean; at the same time, scientific management should be strengthened to maintain the appropriate temperature, humidity, light and feeding density in the duck house, maintain good ventilation, and a quiet environment, and minimize the stimulation of people walking or other adverse factors. Well-grown ducks can avoid nutritional diseases and are also conducive to giving full play to the immune effect of injection vaccines. Implementing the principle of self-breeding and self-feeding to prevent the introduction of sick ducks from outside the farm or other places is the most important content of disease prevention measures. If ducks must be purchased from other places or outside the farm, it is necessary to understand the occurrence of epidemics in the purchased farm and quarantine them by veterinary personnel. Never introduce them from the diseased farm, the diseased group or the duck group that has just recovered from the disease. After the introduction, they should be isolated and raised for 30 days. When there is no infectious disease or parasitic disease, they can be mixed with the group. It is strictly forbidden to transport unqualified ducks that have participated in exhibitions or sent to the market or slaughterhouse back to the farm and mix them into the duck group. It is also forbidden to select slow-growing sick ducks and mix them with healthy ducks of young age. In addition, self-breeding and self-rearing can also help formulate immunization programs. Implement an "all-in, all-out" feeding system, that is, only ducks of the same age are raised in a duck house, and they are introduced and raised at the same time, transferred, sold or slaughtered at the same time. Before each arrival of ducklings, there is a 1-2 week empty house time to facilitate cleaning and disinfection to ensure the epidemic prevention safety of the next batch of ducklings.

2. Do a good job in immunization. There is no specific drug treatment for many infectious diseases, especially viral diseases. There is often no corresponding countermeasure after the disease occurs. Therefore, regular vaccination should be carried out for those duck infectious diseases that have commercially available vaccines or are already in the area. For example, duck plague, duck viral hepatitis and duck cholera, etc., can be used to make ducks produce specific resistance through immunization injection. This is a reliable and economical method to prevent and control duck infectious diseases. A year-round immunization plan suitable for the actual situation of the farm should be formulated and carried out strictly according to the immunization procedure.

3. Taking appropriate medications for prevention, such as adding certain drugs or health additives to feed or drinking water, is also a way to prevent disease. However, long-term use of a certain drug may cause side effects or drug resistance. Consider changing the drug regularly and pay attention to the residues of certain drugs.

4. Do a good job of sanitation, disinfection, rodent control and feces treatment. This is also an important measure to prevent the spread of diseases. Disinfection objects include: people entering and leaving, vehicles, duck breeding workshops, feeding and management tools, bedding, duck playgrounds, etc. Different disinfection agents and methods can be used according to different disinfection objects. Rodents are the carriers or storage hosts of many diseases, and rodents in duck farms have become a public nuisance. Feed rooms, open duck houses, and places where waste and waste equipment in duck farms are piled up are all good places for rodents to hide and reproduce. Therefore, disinfection and rodent control should be made a regular task for duck farms or duck farmers.

5. Prevent direct or indirect contact with wild waterfowl. Wild waterfowl are also reservoirs and transmitters of certain infectious and parasitic diseases, such as duck plague, duck coccidia, avian influenza, etc. Since duck farms raise domestic ducks outdoors, residual feed and outdoor feeding troughs often attract wild waterfowl to fly over, and come into close contact with domestic ducks, contaminating feed and water sources, causing disease transmission.

6. Prevent egg-borne diseases. So-called egg-borne diseases are diseases that can be transmitted from infected mother ducks to newly hatched offspring through fertilized eggs. There are two situations: one is that the pathogen infects the ovarian follicles before the eggshell and shell membrane are formed (ovarian transmission), enters during the egg formation process, and is carried inside the duck egg, such as Salmonella; the other situation is that the duck egg is born or after the egg is laid, due to poor environmental hygiene, the pathogen contaminates the eggshell, such as general intestinal bacteria, especially Salmonella and Escherichia coli, sometimes Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus aeruginosa and mold. It may cause embryo death during the incubation process, but most contaminated eggs form weak chicks or bacteria-carrying chicks after incubation. When under the influence of stress factors such as adverse environment, such as too low brooding temperature, the chicks may become ill or die. Therefore, preventing egg-borne diseases is an important factor in improving the survival of ducklings. Therefore, pay attention to the environmental hygiene of the breeding duck house, clean or disinfect the egg-laying site frequently, replace the bedding, and keep it dry to reduce fecal contamination of eggs. The cleaner the eggshell surface, the fewer contaminated bacteria on the shell. In addition, the number of egg picking should be increased. After the eggs for hatching are concentrated, they should be fumigated with formaldehyde solution or rinsed with warm detergent and dried. It is strictly forbidden to wash eggs with dirty water contaminated by feces, which not only fails to achieve the purpose of sanitation and disinfection, but will cause further pollution. After the newborn chicks enter the brooding room, adding 0.4 parts per million of chloramphenicol to the feed for 3 to 5 consecutive days can improve the survival rate of weak chicks.

2. Eradication measures when disease occurs

1. Timely discovery and diagnosis of the epidemic. Early symptoms of infectious diseases in ducks are mostly listlessness or depression, neck retraction, lying down, secretions from the eyes and nose, reduced or no food intake, and a sharp drop in egg production in female ducks. At this time, suspected sick ducks should be quickly isolated for observation, and dead ducks should be sent to the veterinary department for inspection so that a diagnosis can be made as soon as possible and targeted prevention and control measures can be taken.

2. Isolate sick ducks and conduct emergency disinfection of contaminated sites and duck houses. It is strictly forbidden for breeders and staff to visit other duck houses to avoid spreading the infection.

3. Stop introducing or selling live ducks to the sick group, and handle the case according to the specific situation after diagnosis.

4. Dead ducks should be buried deeply or burned, their feces fermented, and the straw burned or composted. It is strictly prohibited to sell or process dead ducks for food.

5. According to the confirmed disease, select special vaccines for emergency vaccination and give reasonable treatment to sick ducks. Ducks with chronic infectious diseases should be eliminated early.

2. Disinfection of duck farm

Please refer to the disinfection methods of the chicken farm for operation.

3. Prevention and treatment of common duck diseases

1. Duck Plague

1. Pathogen or cause: herpes virus

2. Symptoms: The body temperature of sick ducks rises sharply to above 43°C, the feathers around the eyes are wet or there is purulent secretion that adheres the eyelids, there is also secretion in the nasal cavity, and breathing is difficult. The head and neck of some sick ducks are swollen, commonly known as "big head plague". The sick ducks have diarrhea and excrete green or grayish white loose feces. The cloaca mucosa is congested, hemorrhagic, and edematous. In severe cases, the mucosa is everted, and there is a yellow-green pseudomembrane on the mucosal surface that is not easy to peel off.

3. Prevention and treatment: Inject duck plague vaccine at 2 months old, generally produce strong immunity within 1 week, and inject anti-duck plague high immune serum intramuscularly at the early stage of the disease, 0.5 ml per duck, with a certain effect. Adult ducks are injected intramuscularly with 1 mg of polymyxin once every 3 days, 2 to 8 times with good effect.

2. Duckling viral hepatitis

1. Pathogen or cause: duck hepatitis virus

2. Symptoms: This disease mainly occurs in ducklings around one week old. Systemic convulsions occur within half a day to a day of the onset of the disease. The sick ducks often lie on their sides with their heads tilted back and their feet spinning on the ground as they kick repeatedly and convulsively. The tip of their beak and claws are dark purple with congestion.

3. To prevent and treat ducks that have just fallen ill or are threatened by the disease, you can inject immune serum or high-immune serum from recovered ducks or egg yolk homogenate from immune mother ducks. Subcutaneous injection of 0.5 to 1.0 ml per duck can reduce mortality, stop the epidemic and prevent the disease.

3. Infectious serositis in ducklings

1. Pathogen or cause Pasteurella anatipestifer

2. Symptoms This disease mainly occurs in ducklings of 2 to 3 weeks old. In the most acute cases, there are no obvious symptoms and sudden death. Acute cases are characterized by lethargy, neck retraction or mouth on the ground, serous or sticky secretions from the eyes and nose, and neurological symptoms before death, such as convulsions, shaking or nodding the head, and the back, neck and legs are straight and arched in opisthotonos, and convulsions and death soon follow.

3. For prevention and treatment, chloramphenicol or oxytetracycline can be mixed into the feed at 0.04% and used for 4 days. Also, the sanitary conditions of the chick room should be improved.

4. Duck cholera

1. Pathogen or cause: Pasteurella multocida

2. Symptoms The most acute form of this disease has no obvious visible symptoms, and the duck often suddenly falls to the ground and dies while or after eating. In the acute form, the body temperature rises to 42.3-43℃, the duck becomes thirsty, and there is food or fluid accumulation in the crop. The duck coughs and sneezes, breathes faster and often breathes with the mouth open, and often shakes its head, so this disease is called "shaking head plague". The duck excretes fishy-smelling white or copper-green loose feces, and a few ducks have blood mixed in their feces. The ducks with this disease have paralysis of both feet and cannot walk, and often die within 1-3 days.

3. For prevention and treatment, sulfadiazine and sulfadimethoxine can be mixed into feed at 0.4-0.5%, or their sodium salt can be dissolved into drinking water at 0.1-0.2%, and fed continuously for several days. Compound sulfamethoxazole can be mixed into feed at 0.02%, which has a good preventive effect. Olaquinoxaline can be mixed into feed at a dose of 30 mg per kilogram of body weight and fed once a day. Penicillin can be injected intramuscularly at 2000-5000 units per duck, 2-3 times a day.

5. Paratyphoid (Salmonellosis)

1. Multiple pathogens or causes of Salmonella

2. Symptoms: This disease mainly occurs in ducklings under one month old. The sick ducks lose their appetite, become thirsty, have diarrhea, tear, have swollen eyelids, discharge serous or mucous secretions from their nostrils, have difficulty breathing, wheezing, and have neurological symptoms such as spasms and convulsions.

3. For prevention and treatment, pay attention to the disinfection of breeding eggs and incubators. Add 0.5% sulfadiazine or sulfamethoxazole to the feed for 2-3 days, and intramuscular injection of streptomycin, 2.5 mg per duck per day, divided into two injections. Add 0.02% furazolidone to the drinking water for 7 days, then halve the dose and feed for another 7 days.

6. Duckling influenza

1. Pathogen or cause: Influenza bacillus

2. Symptoms This disease mainly occurs in young ducks over 20 years old. The sick ducks are listless, with body temperature rising to above 42.5℃, coughing and sneezing, runny nose or nasal congestion, phlegm in the throat, and "cooing" sounds when breathing. Sick ducks often have neurological symptoms when swimming, and the liver of sick ducks swells to 6 to 8 times the normal level, which is a characteristic lesion of this disease.

3. For prevention and treatment, take half a tablet of sulfadiazine tablets (0.25 g) for the first time, and 1/4 tablet every 4 hours thereafter. Inject 1 ml of 20% sodium thiamine thiazole intramuscularly, and inject 0.5 ml every 4 hours. Inject 10-12 mg of chloramphenicol intramuscularly, twice a day, and generally 4 times have a good effect.

(VII) Duck Staphylococcus disease

1. Pathogen or cause: Staphylococcus aureus disease

2. Symptoms (1) Arthritis type: common in ducklings and breeder ducks, with swelling of webbed and tarsal joints, fever, and lameness. (2) Visceral type: common in adult breeder ducks, with sagging abdomen. (3) Omphalitis type: in 1-week-old ducklings, the abdomen of the diseased duck is swollen, and the navel is swollen and necrotic. (4) Skin type: common in ducklings aged 3-10 weeks. Skin damage leads to local infection, with suppuration or local necrosis of the chest subcutaneous.

3. For prevention and control, mix chloramphenicol into the feed at 0.04% of the feed amount and feed for 3 consecutive days.

8. Duck erysipelas

1. Pathogen or cause Erysipelothrix rhizogenes

2. Symptoms: Sick ducks refuse to eat, their feathers are ruffled and they have diarrhea, and some of them have swollen joints.

3. For prevention and treatment, give penicillin G potassium (or sodium) 50,000 units intramuscularly to each duck daily for 2 to 3 consecutive days.

(IX) Duck Aspergillus Disease

1. The most common pathogen or cause is fumocystin

2. Symptoms mainly occur in ducklings, and ducklings aged 5 to 7 days are most susceptible to infection. Sick ducks have difficulty breathing, and when they open their mouths to inhale, the air sacs in their necks often swell up and down. When the air sacs rupture, they exhale with a sharp "quack" sound. Some sick ducks show aspergillus ophthalmia.

3. For prevention and treatment, mix 3-5 mg of nystatin into the feed for each duck every day, feed for 3 days and stop for 2 days, and continue for 2-3 courses. Use 1:3000 copper sulfate solution as drinking water for 3-5 days, and take 500 mg of berberine orally for each duck, twice a day, for 3 consecutive days.

10. Duck aflatoxin poisoning

1. Pathogen or cause: Aspergillus flavus

2. Symptoms The initial symptoms of sick ducks are reduced food intake and slow growth, feather loss, common lameness, and purple hemorrhagic spots on the legs and toes. Sick ducks often have ataxia and convulsions before death, and opisthotonos at the time of death.

3. There is no effective drug treatment for prevention and control. The prevention and control method is to replace the feed containing aflatoxin.

(11) Duck rickets

1. Pathogen or cause: Calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D deficiency or imbalance

2. Symptoms often occur in ducklings aged 1 to 4 weeks, with slow growth, stiff and laborious gait, reluctance to move or frequent squatting, enlargement of the ends of long bones, especially osteoporosis of the tarsal joints, and softening of the duckbill shell.

3. For prevention and treatment, you can feed 15,000 international units of vitamin D at a time, or feed 2-3 drops of vitamin AD liquid or concentrated cod liver oil, 1-2 times a day, for 2 consecutive days. At the same time, reasonably adjust the content and proportion of calcium and phosphorus in the diet, which is especially important for house-feeding ducks.

(XII) Duck bone short and thick disease (bone tendon disease)

1. Pathogens or causes: lack of manganese, choline, niacin, folic acid, vitamin B6 in feed, damp duck house, etc.

2. Symptoms This disease often occurs in ducklings aged 1-3 weeks. Symptoms first appear in ducks that grow faster. The legs of the sick ducks are slightly bent at the beginning, and then they become "O" or "X" shaped legs to varying degrees. The gastrocnemius tendon slides to one side of the joint, and in severe cases it can slide out completely, making the legs unable to stand upright.

3. Each kilogram of feed should contain 40-50 mg of manganese, 2000 mg of vitamin C, 55 mg of niacin and a reasonable calcium and phosphorus accountant and ratio. Pay attention to the supplement of vitamin B, and at the same time, do not make the stocking density too high and prevent moisture.

(XIII) Organophosphorus pesticide poisoning in ducks

1. Pathogens or causes of disease: pesticides such as trichlorfon, 1605, 1059, 3911, dichlorvos, malathion, and diqinon (dianon).

2. Symptoms of poisoning: Ducks' pupils shrink, they become restless, have no appetite, and defecate frequently. In severe cases, the poisoning may cause foaming at the mouth, vomiting, breathing with open mouths, unstable standing, difficulty walking, or paralysis of both legs. Finally, they fall to the ground, convulse all over, and die in a coma.

3. For prevention and treatment, intramuscular injection of "pralidoxime" injection, 0.2-0.5 ml (40 mg per ml) per adult duck, and injection of atropine sulfate solution, 0.2-0.5 ml (0.5 mg per ml) per adult duck. If it is 1605 poisoning, 3-5 ml of 1-2% quicklime water (supernatant) can also be administered orally.

14. Duck salt poisoning

1. Pathogen or cause The minimum lethal dose of salt for ducks is 4 grams per kilogram of body weight. Salt content of more than 3% in feed and more than 0.5% in drinking water can cause poisoning.

2. Symptoms: The ducks have poor or no appetite, their crops are enlarged, sticky yellow secretions flow from their mouths and noses, they feel very thirsty, have diarrhea, their legs are weak or completely paralyzed, their webbed feet are bent backwards, and they have difficulty walking. In the later stages of the disease, they become extremely weak, have difficulty breathing, convulse, and die from collapse.

3. The salt content in the diet should not exceed 0.5%. If salted fish meal is used, its salt content should be measured to control the salt content of the diet not exceeding the standard. If poisoning is found, stop feeding salty feed immediately and provide sufficient drinking water and green feed.

(15) Pentachlorophenol poisoning

1. Pathogen or cause of disease: sodium pentachlorophenol

2. Symptoms: Acute poisoning leads to death within a few hours. Chronic poisoning leads to weakness, loss of appetite, and decreased vision. Skin contact poisoning leads to pain in the eyes, mouth, legs, and webbed feet, red mucous membranes, partial hair loss, thirst, increased heart rate and breathing, and muscle spasms.

3. Prevention and control: Ducks are prohibited from grazing in ditches or ponds in the application area. Feed the poisoned ducks with a high concentration of sodium bicarbonate solution immediately. Intramuscular injection of adenosine triphosphate, 5 to 10 ml per duck, is more effective. Wash the head, mouth, anus, legs, webbed feet, etc. with soapy water.

(16) Duck gill filariasis (duck nematode disease)

1. Pathogen or cause: Duck cheek filariasis

2. Symptoms: Most of the parasites are found under the skin of the ducklings' lower jaw, followed by the muscles on the outside of the tibia of both legs and the subcutaneous part of the crop. In severe cases, nodules may form under the skin of the abdomen, around the cloaca, and even on the top of the head, shoulders, tail, and eyelids. This is commonly known as "herpes" disease, and grazing ducks are susceptible to this disease.

3. For prevention and treatment, inject 1% tetramisole (0.1-0.5 ml) into the lesion, and the lesion will disappear in 7-12 days. Inject 0.5% potassium permanganate solution at a dose of 0.5-2 ml (depending on the size of the affected area) into the affected area, and the lesion will disappear in 2-10 days.

1. Goose production should be developed according to local conditions. Goose is a herbivorous waterfowl that can fully digest and utilize the nutrients in green feed. Goose likes cleanliness very much and likes to play in the water. Only in the water can their mating activities proceed smoothly. No water surface for them to bathe or serious water pollution will affect their health, production and reproduction. Therefore, goose production must be combined with local natural environmental conditions and developed moderately under the conditions of sufficient water sources and abundant green grass resources. In some areas, water sources are scarce, but geese are raised blindly in large quantities, which makes it difficult to meet the physiological needs of geese and obtain ideal production results. Some farmers build a small pool in the yard as a water sports venue for geese, which is feasible for small-scale production of goslings, but not necessarily suitable for breeding geese or large-scale gosling production. If the water is not changed frequently or the number of disinfections is low, the water quality will deteriorate, which will inevitably affect the enthusiasm of geese to bathe, and it is also easy for geese to spread diseases to each other, causing certain economic losses. 2. Introduction and germplasm issues. What kind of breed is suitable for a region and the quality of the germplasm are the key to the success or failure of goose production. At present, the main products of goose farming in my country are meat goslings and down. There are many varieties of geese in my country, which are different not only in body shape and appearance, but also in growth rate, egg-laying performance, down quality and output. Generally speaking, the reproductive performance of large-sized geese is relatively low and the growth rate is faster, while the weight of geese with more egg-laying is smaller and the growth rate is slower. According to the main utilization direction of goose farming products at present, Sichuan white geese, Yangzhou white geese and Wanxi white geese are more suitable for raising in our province. They are all medium-sized geese with good egg-laying performance. The early growth rate of goslings is relatively fast. Under good feeding conditions, their weight can exceed 3 kilograms around 10 weeks of age. In production, hybridization mode is also used, which can not only reduce the cost of goose seedlings, but also show hybrid advantages. The disadvantage is that sometimes due to the large difference in weight of breeding geese, the success rate of mating is relatively low, and comprehensive measures need to be taken to adjust it. 3. Brooding is the key. The thermoregulation function of goslings is not sound, their adaptability to changes in the external environment is poor, and their disease resistance is weak. They must be carefully raised and managed, and necessary measures must be taken to ensure the healthy growth of the goose flock. First of all, a suitable brooding environment must be provided. Suitable temperature, humidity and stocking density are one of the key factors to improve the survival rate of brooding. High temperature and high humidity can easily cause a large number of pathogens to multiply, resulting in an increase in the incidence of goslings; when raising large groups, they should be divided into small groups to avoid being crushed or injured when piling; at the same time, pay attention to ventilation to keep the air in the house fresh, and pay attention to prevent thieves. Secondly, careful and reasonable feeding and management are required. Goslings should drink water before eating, and it is best to add an appropriate amount of multivitamins or glucose to enhance their resistance; feeding should be based on the principle of more meals and less food, first feed concentrate and then green feed, so as to avoid picky eating and meet the nutritional needs of goslings. 4. Health and epidemic prevention issues should be taken seriously. The strong disease resistance of geese is relative. In the process of small-scale breeding dispersed by one household, their diseases rarely occur. Under the conditions of large-scale production, the living environment of geese deteriorates due to the increase in stocking density. In addition, the number of fights between geese increases, and the lack of freedom in drinking water and feeding leads to a serious reduction in the disease resistance of geese. Therefore, we must do a good job in the prevention and treatment of goose diseases, adhere to the principle of combining disinfection and epidemic prevention, and reduce unnecessary economic losses. Third, the selection of sites for the establishment of modern large-scale goose farms is very important. The primary condition is to be conducive to health and epidemic prevention, convenient transportation, sufficient water sources, good water quality, and convenient power supply. Usually, the site should be far away from railways and tourist attractions. Trains and passengers frequently travel and easily spread pathogens. At the same time, the terrain of the site should be conducive to flood control and drainage, sewage treatment and discharge, so as to benefit environmental protection. The surrounding and space of the site should be free of toxic and harmful substances and air pollution to ensure safe production. The layout of buildings in the field should be carefully planned, the production area and the living area should be strictly divided, and there should be a considerable distance between them. They should be isolated by walls to prevent random entry and exit of idle people and spread pathogens.

Goslings have sparse down, are small, have an imperfect body temperature regulation function, and have poor adaptability to the external environment and disease resistance. If feeding management is not strengthened and disease prevention and control are neglected, they are very likely to get sick or even die. Therefore, to improve the survival rate of goslings, the following aspects should be grasped:

Goslings have sparse down, are small, have an imperfect body temperature regulation function, and have poor adaptability to the external environment and disease resistance. If feeding management is not strengthened and disease prevention and control are neglected, they are very likely to get sick or even die. Therefore, to improve the survival rate of goslings, the following aspects should be grasped:

1. Carefully prepare the brooding house

First, calculate the area of ​​the brooding house according to the number of chicks to be brought in, and thoroughly check and repair the lighting, ventilation, and insulation facilities in the house. Before bringing in the chicks, the brooding house must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected, and the floor and walls of the brooding house must be washed with high-pressure water. After drying, the bedding must be laid. At the same time, high-quality green feed, concentrated feed, medicines, vaccines and other necessities must be prepared according to the number of chicks.

2. Choose healthy goslings

Healthy goslings are the prerequisite for ensuring the survival rate of chicks, and weak and sick goslings should be eliminated in time. Healthy goslings have thick, long and shiny down; the yolk is well absorbed, the navel is completely contracted, and there is no edema or inflammation around the navel; when held in the hand, the gosling struggles vigorously, the abdomen is soft and elastic, and the cry is loud; the weight meets the breed requirements.

3. Choose the right brooding method

The main method of brooding geese is to raise them flat on the ground. The brooding room requires good thermal insulation performance, soft bedding, good water absorption, and not easy to mold: sawdust, rice husks, straw, wheat straw, etc. can be used as bedding. If conditions permit, flat brooding can be carried out on the net to completely isolate the goslings from feces and reduce the occurrence of diseases. The height of the net flat breeding should be 60 to 70 cm from the ground to facilitate feeding and drinking water.

4 Provide suitable brooding conditions

4.1 Temperature

Goslings are small in size, thin in down, and poor in their ability to regulate body temperature. They are easily crowded together in a low temperature environment below 26℃, which may lead to suffocation and death. If the temperature in the goose house exceeds 32℃, the goslings will become listless, eat less, drink more water, have a higher body temperature, and have difficulty dissipating body heat, which will affect their growth and development and induce diseases. Long-term high temperature can also cause large-scale death of goslings. Therefore, the appropriate brooding temperature is: 27℃～28℃ for 1-5 days of age, 25℃～26℃ for 6-10 days of age, 22℃～24℃ for 11-15 days of age, 20℃～22℃ for 16-20 days of age, and 18℃ after 20 days of age.

4.2 Humidity

Although geese are waterfowl, a dry indoor environment is crucial for the growth and development of goslings and disease prevention. Practice has shown that when the humidity exceeds 80% and the temperature is not suitable, goslings will show symptoms such as lack of energy, loss of appetite, huddling, difficulty breathing, diarrhea, loose and messy villi, and the most prominent manifestation is feather pecking. In severe cases, the villi on the entire head, neck and back of the goslings are all pecked off, causing the goslings to be stunted, with decreased productivity and disease resistance, and increased morbidity. Therefore, when using ground litter for brooding, be sure to avoid water overflow, prevent the litter from getting wet and moldy, and replace wet litter in a timely manner.

4.3 Ventilation

Goslings have a vigorous metabolism and expel a large amount of carbon dioxide when breathing. The fermentation of feces and litter also produces a large amount of ammonia and hydrogen sulfide. Goslings are very sensitive to harmful gases such as carbon dioxide, ammonia, and hydrogen sulfide in the house. When the content of carbon dioxide, ammonia, and hydrogen sulfide in the environment exceeds the standard, goslings will show depression, faster breathing, increased oral mucus, eyelid edema, tears, runny nose, and then loss of appetite, movement disorders and other symptoms, and finally look up, convulsions, paralysis and death. Therefore, the goose house must be ventilated in time. Generally, the doors and windows can be opened in summer and autumn. In winter and spring, the house temperature should be raised by 2℃~3℃ before ventilation, and then the doors and windows or ventilation fans should be gradually opened to prevent cold air from blowing directly onto the goose body. The ventilation time is mostly arranged around noon, avoiding the morning and evening time.

4.4 Lighting

During the brooding period, it is generally necessary to maintain a longer lighting time, which is conducive to the goslings getting familiar with the environment, increasing exercise, and facilitating the goslings to eat and drink water to meet their nutritional needs. Suitable lighting time: 24 hours for 1 to 3 days of age, 18 hours for 4 to 15 days of age, and gradually reduced to natural light after 16 days of age, but the lights need to be turned on and fed at night. Light intensity: 1 40-watt bulb for every 15 square meters for 1 to 7 days of age, and 1 25-watt bulb for every 15 square meters for 8 to 14 days of age. The bulb should be about 2 meters away from the goose's back.

4.5 Stocking density

The general density of goslings when raised on the ground is: 20-25 per square meter at 1-2 weeks of age, 15 per square meter at 3 weeks of age, and 12 per square meter at 4 weeks of age. The density gradually decreases with increasing age.

5. “Tide” and the beginning of eating

Goslings should drink water before eating. The first water exercise and drinking water are commonly known as "tide mouth". About 24 hours after the goslings hatch, they can "tide mouth", which is usually done in a basin. Pour warm water of about 30℃ into the basin, with a depth of about 3cm. Put the goslings in the basin, immerse the beaks of individual goslings in the water, and let them drink water, repeat several times. 0.02% potassium permanganate can be added to the drinking water to disinfect the drinking water and prevent intestinal diseases. It usually takes 2 to 3 days. For goslings transported over long distances, in order to quickly restore physical strength and improve survival rate, 5% glucose and vitamin C can be added to the drinking water, and instant multi-dimensional electrolytes can be added in proportion. The time for goslings to start eating is generally 24 to 30 hours after hatching. The starter feed is generally made of indica rice with less viscosity. The rice is cooked half-cooked and rinsed with clean water to make the rice grains loose and not sticky when eating. It is best to add some green vegetable leaves cut into filaments, such as spinach leaves, cabbage leaves, rapeseed leaves, etc. When starting to feed, do not use a feed trough or feed tray. Sprinkle the feed directly on a clean plastic sheet so that the whole flock can eat at the same time. When feeding for the first time, the goslings can eat until they are half full.

6. Strengthen feeding management

6.1 Feed appropriately to ensure nutrition

The digestive organs of goslings are not fully functional, so they should be fed with nutritious, easily digestible complete feed and high-quality green fodder. When feeding, you can feed the concentrate first and then the green fodder, and feed less and more meals. 2-3 day old goslings: Feed 6 times a day, with concentrate accounting for 50% of the daily diet; 4-10 days old: Feed 8-9 times a day, with concentrate accounting for 30%; 11-20 days old: Feed 5-6 times a day, mainly green fodder, start grazing, with concentrate accounting for 10%-20% of the ration; 21-28 days old: Feed 3-4 times a day, with concentrate accounting for 7%-8% of the daily diet, and extend the grazing time.

6.2 Timely grouping and reducing stocking density

Timely grouping is an important measure to ensure the healthy growth of goslings and improve the survival rate and uniformity of broods. The grouping is carried out according to the size of the individual and the strength of the body. The first grouping is carried out at 10 days old, with the number of each group being 150 to 180; the second grouping is carried out at 20 days old, with the number of each group being 80 to 100. If people are found to be disabled, paralyzed, sick, thin, loss of appetite and slow movement, they should be isolated and treated or eliminated as soon as possible.

6.3 Grazing in time

Grazing can enable the goslings to adapt to the external environment early, promote metabolism, enhance disease resistance, and improve economic benefits. Grazing should be done at noon without wind and sunny days, and the geese should be driven to the grass near the goose house, and the pasture will be from near to far. The grazing time is 20 to 30 minutes, and it will be gradually extended later. Once in the morning and afternoon, rush back to the house to rest at noon.

7. Prevent and treat epidemics

7.1 Isolation and feeding

Goslings should be kept in isolation and cannot be brought into contact with adult geese and outsiders. A disinfection room and disinfection pool are set up at the door of the brooch house. Regularly spray and disinfection goslings, goose houses and utensils, etc.

7.2 Vaccination

If the breeding goose is not vaccinated with the goose plague vaccine, the goslings can inject 0.2 ml of the 10-fold diluted goose plague vaccine subcutaneously at 3 days old, and then vaccinate once again after 1 to 2 weeks; the newly-shelled goslings can also inject 0.5 ml of anti-goose plague high-emission serum or 1 ml of high-emission egg yolk.

7.3 Add medicine to the feed

In order to prevent diarrhea from goslings, you can mix neomycin sulfate into the feed, mix 150 kilograms of 100 grams of ingredients per 100 grams of goslings; if a few goslings are found to have diarrhea, you can use amoxicillin, drinking 150 kilograms of water per bag, drinking water for 8 to 10 hours; when goslings have a cold, you can use antivirals, add 300 kilograms of water for 2 to 3 days, and take sulfadiazine orally, for 1/2 tablet (0.25g)/piece for the first time, and take 1/4 tablet/piece every 8 hours for 2 to 4 days. You can also add appropriate amount of Chinese medicine preparations such as isatis root, big green leaves, astragalus, safflower, Codonopsis, etc. to the feed to improve the immunity of goslings.

2. What is the normal survival rate of duck seedlings?

Ninety-five percent of the survival rate of ducks is normal.

Nowadays, many professional households have become rich by raising ducks, especially in recent stages, duck meat prices continue to rise, and the profits of raising ducks are getting richer. Like other animals, ducks cannot survive 100% because some ducks are weaker in physique and cannot be raised by various diseases. Therefore, 95% of them are very successful.

3. How to improve the survival rate of bamboo?

There are the following ways to improve survival rate of transplanted plants:

First, try to damage the roots as little as possible. If it is a plant with a smaller size, you should transplant it with soil lumps.

Second, in terms of planting time, the survival rate of transplanting in the evening is generally higher than that of other times.

Third, remove some branches and leaves during transplanting, and bring less branches and leaves to survive easily when transplanting.

Personally, considering factors such as temperature, humidity, soil, moisture and the growth potential of bamboo, transplanting in autumn is slightly better, and the survival rate and growth rate are slightly higher than that in spring. The specific issues that should be paid attention to are as follows.

When transplanting bamboo, it is best to choose seedlings that grow in the nursery for more than one year and have a strong root system. During the specific operation, load them as soon as possible after digging the seedlings, pay attention to moisturizing the roots, and plant them immediately after transporting them to the planting ground. Water them thoroughly after planting. If the wind is strong at that time, you can set up a wind barrier to prevent wind. If you apply fertilizer for one year after transplanting, light fertilizer such as wood ash can be used. Diamond fertilizers should not be used.

In addition to the above conventional operations, early root breaking is a key measure for me to improve the survival rate of bamboo transplantation. Generally, when transplanting in March and April in spring, the roots can be cut off in December of the first year; when transplanting in August in autumn, the roots can be cut off in March of spring. In addition, during the root breaking process, the bamboo roots must also be applied to the bamboo root system a solution of a mixture of parezole and pesticides to prevent and control diseases and diseases, and the content of the two accounts for 50%. In this way, the survival rate of transplanting in spring can reach more than 90%, and in autumn can reach more than 95%.

4. How to improve the survival rate of grafting?

Grafting method: This method is the most common grafting method currently used. This method is convenient to operate, has a high survival rate and a fast healing speed. The grafting operation procedure is: when the scion seedling age is 10-12 days, the combsyl is 6-7 cm, the rootstock seedling age is 8-10 days, and the embryo is 5-6 cm long, the seedlings can be grafted. At this time, the seedlings have strong vitality, heal quickly after grafting, and have a high survival rate. It is the best grafting period. One day before the seedling, water should be watered once to make the soil loose to reduce the damage to the root system. When the seedling is started, gently pick it up from the bottom layer of the seedling soil, 10-20 plants each time. When the seedling is started, pay attention to taking care of the height of the rootstock and the scion seedlings as much as possible. If the rootstock is too high, the cutting position can be appropriately lowered to ensure the root flush.

Cutting of rootstock seedlings: Remove the growth points from the raised seedlings first. If one cotyledon is cut off at the same time, this method is called monocotyledon joint method; leave two cotyledons to be called dicotyledon joint method. The position of the ionic leaf base is about 1 cm. When cutting the knife, about 45 from top to bottom. Cut the angle into 1/3 of the cotyledon. When cutting the junction, cut it to the appropriate place with one knife. The knife edge should not move back and forth. Otherwise, it will destroy the conduction tissue of the stem and affect the wound healing and reduce the survival rate.

Cutting and grafting of scion: Cucumber seedlings are thinner and softer than the combsyl of pumpkin seedlings. They should be accurate and ruthless when cutting, and cannot be cut back or wrongly. The cutting part is cut at about 1 cm of the base of the hypocotyl ion leaf according to the height of the pumpkin seedlings, and 30% from bottom to top. One cut with an angle. Cut into l/2 of the combsyl thick.

When the rootstock and scion are cut, the two are immediately joined together. The method of joining is: hold the pumpkin seedlings in one hand, separate the binding mouth slightly with your thumb or index finger, and insert the upper cut position of the cucumber seedlings into the lower cut position of the pumpkin seedlings to make them fit. During grafting, do not move back and forth, and insert them tightly at once, otherwise it is easy to cause dislocation and affect survival rate. After joining, use a grafting clip to clamp it. In order not to affect the conduction and exchange of nutrients in the seedlings, the tightness of the grafting clip should be appropriately adjusted according to the thickness of the embryo uranium, and the lower edge of the grafting clip should be flat with the lower position of the engaging port to facilitate the cutting of the healed cucumber seedling rhizomes.

(2) Interpolation method: Sprinkle the pumpkin seeds live in the nutrition bowl, sow the cucumber seeds in the seedling plate. Because the scion seedlings are required to be smaller than the rootstock seedlings, the two can be sown at the same time. When the pumpkin seedlings are spitting out the heart, dig off the heart leaves of the pumpkin seedlings, sharpen one end of the bamboo stick into a semi-conical shape of 1 cm, and the thickness at the tip of the 0.5 cm is similar to the thickness of the cucumber seedling combsyl. Then use a bamboo stick to pierce the hole vertically at the growth point of the pumpkin seedlings, and deep 0.5 cm. Cut the corner at 1 cm below the cucumber seedling leaves at 30. Cut the angle with a 0.5 cm long in the cut, cut the hypocotyl into a wedge shape, then pull out the bamboo stick and insert the scion.

(3) Chop method: Use a blade to cut into a "weed-shaped" 1 cm below the scion leaves, and the wedge is 1 cm long. Dig off the rootstock growth point, and use the blade to cut the 1.2-1.3 cm marching interface downward from bottom to top along the middle of the hypocotyl, and then insert the scion and fix it with a grafting clip.

(4) Abdominal junction method: Screw into a "weed shape" like the same as the junction method. The rootstock is the same as the junction method, and the sloping 30% below the cotyledon is cut at 1 cm below the corner. Then insert the scion into the interface of the rootstock and fix it with a clip.

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12 2018-11-14

How to Graft a Seedling

(1) Connection method: This method is the most common grafting method currently used. This method is convenient to operate, has a high survival rate and fast healing speed. The grafting operation procedure is: when the scion seedling age is 10-12 days, the combsyl is 6-7 cm, the rootstock seedling age is 8-10 days, and the embryo is 5-6 cm long, the seedlings can be grafted. At this time, the seedlings have strong vitality, heal quickly after grafting, and have a high survival rate. It is the best grafting period. One day before the seedling, water should be watered once to make the soil loose to reduce the damage to the root system. When starting seedlings, gently pick it up from the bottom layer of the seedling soil, 10-20 plants each time. When starting seedlings, pay attention to taking care of the height of the rootstock and the scion seedlings as much as possible. If the rootstock is too high, the cutting position can be appropriately lowered to ensure the roots are flush. Cutting of rootstock seedlings: Remove the growth points first. If one cotyledon is cut at the same time, this method is called monocotyledon joint method; leave two cotyledons to be called dicotyledon joint method. The position of the bonding mouth is about 1 cm. The most suitable position is about 1 cm from the base of the ionic leaf. When cutting the angle, about 45 from the bottom. When cutting the junction, cut it to the appropriate place with one knife. The knife edge should not move back and forth. Otherwise, it will destroy the conduction tissue of the stem and affect the wound healing and reduce the survival rate. Cutting and grafting of scion: Cucumber seedlings are thinner and softer than the cotyledon of the pumpkin seedlings. They should be accurate and ruthless when cutting, and do not return or make a mistake. The cutting part is cut at about 1 cm from the base of the hypocotyl ionic leaf, from bottom to top 30. Angle cutting is cut. Cut into l/2 of the cotyledon. After the rootstock and scion are cut, the two are immediately joined. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Then use bamboo sticks to pierce the hole vertically at the growth point of the pumpkin seedlings, 0.5 cm deep. Cut the angle at 1 cm below the cucumber seedling leaves at 30. Cut the angle at 0.5 cm long, then cut the hypocotyl into a wedge-shaped shape from the other side, then pull out the bamboo stick and insert the scion. (3) Chop method: Use a blade to cut it into a "wedge-shaped" with a "wedge-shaped" with a blade 1 cm below the scion leaves, and cut the rootstock growth point by 1 cm, and cut the 1.2-1.3 cm marching interface downward from bottom to top along the middle of the hypocotyl, and then insert the scion and fix it with a graft clip. (4) Belly junction: Cut the scion into a "wedge-shaped" like the insertion method. The rootstock is the same as the abutment method, 1 cm below the cotyledon, and cut the 1 cm interface under the corner. Then insert the scion into the interface of the rootstock and fix it with a clip.

1 Views 1258 2016-03-27

How to manage grafting?

(1) Management of bud seedlings and seedlings to check for survival, unbinding and re-engaging. Most fruit trees can be checked for survival after 10 to 15 days of grafting. At the same time, if the binding is found to be too tight, it should be loosened or untied in time to avoid affecting the thickening growth and the bondage embedded in the cortex, causing damage to the buds. For slow-tonifying tree species, the bondage should also be removed after 3 weeks. Those who are not surviving should be re-engaged in time. If the rootstock is too late, the rootstock cannot be peeled off the skin, which will affect survival. Cold protection: Seedlings that have not grafted but not germinated with the buds are called semi-perfect seedlings (or buds). In severe cold and arid areas in winter, in order to prevent the buds from freezing, the semi-perfect seedlings should be filled with anti-freeze water or buried soil to prevent cold. The depth of the soil should be more than 6 to 10 cm, and peeled off in time after thawing in spring. Cutting anvil: Cutting anvil in time before germination in the next spring to promote bud germination. The part of the anvil is 0.3 to 0.5 cm above the junction bud. The cut should be smooth and tilted slightly to the opposite side of the junction bud. Do not leave it too long, and do not tilt to the junction bud to avoid affecting the healing of the interface. If you are not alive after winter, you can use the junction method to reconnect in spring. Removal: After cutting the anvil, many tillages will occur in the rootstock. It should be removed in time to avoid consuming water and nutrients and affecting the growth of the junction bud. Stand up pillar: In areas with strong winds, a pillar should be established for the junction bud seedlings. Generally, when the new shoot grows to 5 to 8 cm, a small stick should be placed close to the rootstock and tie the new shoot to the stick. Stand up the pillars can make the seedlings grow upright and prevent them from being blown off by the wind. The branches cut when cutting the anvil can be inserted next to the seedlings as pillars. Intra-bedding plastic surgery: In order to accelerate the formation of young trees, plastic surgery can be performed in the garden. Some tree species such as citrus and most varieties can germinate the secondary tips many times in that year. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : The styrofoam is a chemical plasticizer that can promote the germination of buds on the side of the shoots and increase the angle of the side tips. In North China, the effect is good from mid-to-late May to mid-to-late June. Apply the styrofoam ointment as the size of mung beans to the full buds. It has been proved that the styrofoam has obvious effects on most apple varieties. (2) After branch grafting, the rootstock is also prone to germination and sprouting, and it should be erased as soon as possible. If there are many scions in the branches, you should choose to keep one branch with good direction and strong growth after survival, and cut it off in batches. If there are several sprouts left behind, the upper part should be selected to extend the growth, and the rest should be decided based on the direction and space size. In areas with severe spring monsoon damage, pillar protection should be provided. For other management, see the management of bud seedlings. The fertilizer and water management of grafted seedlings are the same as the control of pest control.

Viewed 20 2019-01-31

How to manage grafting seedlings?

Expert answer (1) Management 1 to 3 days after grafting This period is the period of callus formation and is also a critical period for grafting seedlings to survive. It is necessary to ensure that the humidity in the small arch shed reaches more than 95%, and the inner wall of the shed film should be covered with a large amount of dewdrops, and the grafted seedlings cannot be seen from the outside. The grafted seedlings can be sprayed 1 to 2 times a day, one of which 500 times of liquid chlorophyllium is sprayed to prevent bacterial infection. When spraying, the spray head is facing upward, and the fog point falls naturally. Because the high temperature and humidity in the hotbed are prone to diseases, it is necessary to ventilate twice a day and spray it again after ventilation. The temperature is maintained at 25 to 27℃ during the day, 16 to 20℃ at night, and the ground temperature is about 20℃. In winter, the key problem for cucumber grafting seedlings is that the ground temperature and temperature in the small arch shed are relatively low. In order to ensure the higher temperature in the small arch shed, an electric hotline must be added under the seedling bed. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Therefore, the shed should be 3 to 10 cm of seams all day to ventilate and cool down, and generally no longer cover paper quilts. Under normal conditions, the scion can grow 1 to 2 cm of shiny and light green real leaves, which indicates that the scion has completely healed with the rootstock. The grafted seedlings that have already grown into a grafted plant should be moved out of the small arch shed in time. Any real leaves that are less than 1 cm or have a dark green leaf but have dark green leaves, they should be left in the shed for a few more days. When the above standards are met, they should be moved out of the shed. Do not rush. (4) 10 to 15 days after grafting, after the grafted seedlings are managed after grafted. After 2 to 3 days of adaptation, when the first real leaf of the scion has grown to about 3 cm, a large temperature difference will be managed like the self-root seedlings to promote the differentiation of the flower buds of the grafted seedlings and cultivate a robust grafted seedling. The prompt plate is 12 to 13 days after the coupling, and under the grafting clip, pinch the cucumber hypocotyl with your fingers to destroy the conduction tissue. The interval is 3 to 4 days, and then cut the cucumber hypocotyl from the bottom of the interface. During the survival of the grafting seedlings, the rootstock will sprout at any time. If found, remove it in time, otherwise it will seriously affect the normal growth of cucumber seedlings.

1 Views 20 2019-02-25

How to cultivate grafted seedlings?

: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Cut the anvil in two times in summer. After grafting, break the anvil for 5 to 7 days and break it after surviving. The anvil can be dried continuously in autumn, or cut 1/3 of it, and then cut it from 0.5 cm above the interface after surviving. Appropriate high-level grafting can avoid the occurrence of fluid gluing, especially in intensive seedlings in greenhouse nutrient tubes. ④ Prepare utensils and bandages. Prepare utensils and bandages before grafting, including grafting knives, bud pots, whetstones, and cut plastic film strips (0.6 to 1 cm wide, 20 to 25 cm long). (2) Grafting period. Grafting is better when the scion branches are fully mature and have no budding, and can be carried out all year round. However, it is most suitable before the beginning of spring. Warm winter and full branches can be grafted early, otherwise it will be delayed. In order to quickly cultivate seedlings, summer and autumn joints can be used. Grafting weather should be selected for sunny and warm days in spring. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Remove the germination on the rootstock in time. If there are more than two buds after the sprout, weak buds and crooked buds should be removed, and a strong and straight bud should be left. If the buds are to be removed, the soil should be drained properly in the drought to promote the germination and growth of spring shoots. ② Fertilization. The principle is not to apply or apply less fertilizer during the spring buds. After the spring buds are fully mature, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer to promote the growth of summer buds. Do: Cultivate the first summer shoots, take care of the second summer shoots, attack the autumn shoots, and control the winter shoots. Specific practices: Apply heavy fertilizer once a month before grafting to allow the spring buds to grow vigorously. Do not apply fertilizer before the spring buds stop growing. If the seedlings grow poorly, apply decomposed thin fertilizer once, but do not damage the tender buds. Apply thin fertilizer once when the spring buds basically stop growing, and apply heavy fertilizer once again before Grain Rain to promote the first summer shoots to reach the shearing height. This is an important link in cultivating strong seedlings. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : In order to ensure that the grafted seedlings grow as required, plastic surgery must be carried out, including sparse buds, pinching, and cutting the top. Sparse buds and pinching. After the first and second summer shoots occur, pay attention to sparse buds. Each time, select one straight and strong summer shoot to remove others. The remaining second summer shoots should be pinched to reduce nutrient consumption to enrich the first summer shoot. Cut the top. Generally, the top is cut before and after the beginning of autumn. Where the cold dew wind comes early and where drought is prone to drought or when the autumn and early winter comes appropriately to ensure that the autumn shoots are full. The method of cutting the top is: in the middle and upper part of the first summer shoot, select the part with uniform sparse and dense leaves and complete leaves, and cut it 25 to 30 cm from the ground. If the spring shoots exceed this height, cut it off on the spring shoots. ⑤ Management after the seedlings are cut. After the seedlings are cut, the nursery should be cleaned immediately, weeds and fallen leaves should be removed, and 0.5-0.6 bamide lime sulfur mixture or mixed washing powder with 400-500 times of washing powder, or 15-20 times of rosin mixture should be sprayed 1-2 times to reduce pests and diseases in autumn shoots. Remove sporadic germination of premature sprouts in time, and put the shoots after most seedlings have 3-5 buds germinated to maintain balanced growth of branches, which is also conducive to disease control and pest control. When the buds grow to about 3 cm, select 3-4 main branches that are strong and evenly distributed in each direction, and remove the rest in time. During the entire autumn shoot growth period, it is necessary to ensure sufficient supply of fertilizer and water to make new shoots grow strong, and pay special attention to the prevention and control of latent leaf moths, red spiders, and ulcer diseases to ensure normal growth of autumn shoots, complete leaves, and not harm. (5) Seedlings are out of the garden ① Standards for excellent seedlings. The quality standards for excellent seedlings are that they are free of Huanglong disease and other quarantine diseases such as ulcer disease. The seedlings are strong and the joints are well healed, and they are required to comply with the relevant regulations of GB/T9659. The seedlings are above 50 cm high, the main trunk is 20 to 30 cm high, the stem is above 0.8 cm thick, and have evenly distributed and bright yellow fibrous roots, and the growth of the upper and lower parts of the entire plant is balanced. The standards for grafting seedlings in major citrus production areas are implemented in accordance with the national standard GB/T9659 (see Table 24). Table 24 Notes on the grading standards for citrus grafting seedlings

Views 23 2019-01-31

How to manage grafting?

(1) Management of bud grafting. In autumn, the buds can be checked for survival 10 to 15 days after grafting. Generally, the buds are fresh and the petiole falls as soon as they touch it. The binding can be untied 25 days after grafting. Those who have not survived should be re-grafted in time. Those with xylem buds can be untied in early spring of the following year. Grafted seedlings usually cut the anvil before germination in the spring of the second year to promote the growth of the grafting buds. The cut is about 0.5 cm away from the grafting buds and slightly tilted toward the opposite side of the grafting buds to facilitate healing. After the anvil is cut, the tiller should be removed in time to avoid affecting the growth of the seedlings. The seedlings that are grafted in summer should be untied 2 weeks after grafting. Generally, the anvil should be cut twice. The first time after the untied buds are untied, the anvil should be cut from the upper section of the grafting buds, retain the leaves, and remove the axillary buds; the second time after the grafting buds germinate, the anvil should be cut 0.5 cm above the buds, and the branches that occur under the grafting buds should be removed in time, so that the anvil should be straight upward. In mid-to-late August, to promote organizational enrichment, and all secondary branches and main branches that have not stopped growing must be pinched. (2) Management of branch grafting After the scion germinates, select a new shoot with a positive direction and a strong growth, and erase the remaining germinations to facilitate the growth of seedlings. Other management is the same as bud grafting. Whether it is bud grafting or branch grafting, soil, fertilizer, water management and pest control should be strengthened.

5. How to improve the survival rate of pepper transplantation?

The pepper seedlings are generally 18-25cm tall, with thick stems, short internodes, and 0.3-0.5cm thick stems, and 7-8 real leaves. The cotyledons are intact. The true leaves are dark green in color and large and thick. There are 70%-80% of the plants with large buds, no diseases and pests, and have a well-developed root system and vigorous vitality. Pepper seedlings with the above conditions are slow and fast after transplanting and have strong stress resistance.

6. How to improve the survival rate of cuttings for potatoes?

Haha, I don’t know who the poster is? I’ll introduce you to a method. The survival rate of grafting peppers with chili peppers is much higher than that of potatoes. During the seedling stage, the potatoes are grafted on the peppers. Shave the sprouts and roots of the peppers in advance. Insert the sprouts of potatoes and then insert them into the hole plate.

7. How to improve the survival rate of shrimp seedlings?

Start by choosing shrimp, choose the vibrant ones, and the four branches are healthy. There is no rotten shell and black bottom. Don’t have soft shells. The intestines should have food.

Before releasing seedlings, you need to have fertilizer and no moss. Fertilizer water can provide palatable bait for shrimps. Increase capacity. Detoxify, the pond has rotten grass and heavy metals, and comprehensive disinfection before releasing seedlings. The shrimps must be sterilized and insecticidal for three days after releasing seedlings. The survival of shrimps during the growth process is very important to be related to aquatic plants, water quality, and weather. Only in future management, strengthen management, and pay attention to details can the survival rate of shrimps be improved.

8. How to improve the survival rate of rose transplantation?

How to improve the survival rate of rose transplantation?

I don’t know where to transplant it, whether it is a place to plant or a potted plant, whether it is a place to plant, or a place to plant, or a potted plant, or a potted plant, or a potted plant, or a potted plant, or a potted plant. I explain these four situations separately.

Transplant roses to another place

Transplanting is the best solution for this situation. Transplanting roses in the ground can be transplanted to another place. First, water it with water before transplanting, so it is more convenient to dig. The transplanting retains as many roots as possible, so the digging balls should be larger and try not to dissipate the balls.

The depth and diameter of the digging hole are slightly larger and the soil balls are connected. After transplanting, water them thoroughly. Then, water them twice the next day and the third afternoon.

Transplant roses into flower pots

When transplanting roses on the ground to a flower pot, the method of digging plants is the same as before. The size of the soil ball should be determined according to the size of the pot. You can plant the flower pot directly.

If you are not very satisfied with the soil, you can configure the soil yourself. If you plant it with nutrient soil, wash the roots of the roses and wash off the original soil. If the soil mixed with the soil is not much different from the original soil, just remove part of the soil.

After putting it in the basin, water it thoroughly and place it in a ventilated and shaded place to slow down the seedlings.

Potted roses

After a period of growth in potted roses, the space is too small, so you need to change to a large pot. Repotting is suitable for spring and autumn, and repotting is also very simple.

First, remove the basin without watering the previous few days, so it is easier to remove the basin. Then appropriately trim some old roots and rotten root systems, and then put them in the pot. The new soil is almost the same as the garden soil.

After changing the pot, water it thoroughly to prevent and treat ventilated and shady seedlings.

Potted planting

The method of depotting is the same as above. If you are planting in a land, you must first dig a pit, the size of the pit is slightly larger than the flower pot. Whether to remove the original soil is similar to that of the planting on the ground, it is similar to that of the planting on the top to the flower pot. If it is nutritious soil, remove it, plant bare roots, and garden soil, just plant it directly.

After the ground planting, the management is to water it. Generally, water it once a day, just 2-3 days, and don’t worry about it if you have the rest, there is basically no problem.

9. How to improve the survival rate of fruit tree grafting?

Fruit tree grafting is generally divided into spring grafting and summer grafting. Branch grafting (spike grafting) is often used in spring, and grafting methods are mostly used in split grafting, cut grafting, insertion, etc., and summer grafting is mostly used in bud grafting. Currently, it is a great time for fruit tree grafting in spring. To improve the survival rate of grafting, you need to pay attention to the following 5 points:

1. Master the grafting time. If the grafting is too early, the sap of the tree has not flowed, the leaf buds of the scion have not sprouted, and it is not easy to survive after grafting. If the grafting is too late, the branches have grown leaves, the water evaporates a lot, and it is not easy to survive. Spring grafting in central and southern Hebei is generally around the "Spring Equinox", and summer grafting is generally from late July to late August.

2. Choose strong branches. The branches are strong, the leaves are full, the vitality is strong, and easy to survive.

3. Avoid rain or strong winds. Listen to the weather forecast in time and choose grafting with higher temperatures and clear weather. Generally, it is best not to have heavy rain 3 to 5 days after grafting.

4. Scaffolding wax. To reduce the evaporation of scion moisture, the scaffolding wax must be treated. The method is to melt industrial paraffin. When the wax temperature reaches 95℃~102℃, dip one end of the cut scaffolding branches in the wax liquid, and then change to the other end to dip them quickly.

5. The grafting speed should be fast and the strips should be tightened. It is best to use the branches as they are cut. The scion branches that cannot be used on the same day should be put into a plastic bag and placed in a cool and humid place. The knives used for grafting should be sharp, the surface should be flat, and grafted in time. It is easy to dehydrate and oxidize over time, which will affect the survival rate of grafting.

10. How to improve the survival rate of wintersweet transplantation?

In order to improve the survival rate of wintersweet transplantation, rooting agent can be sprayed for newly transplanted wintersweets. At the same time, watering and fertilizing should be applied one month later. A sprayer should be used for top-dressing on the roots when applying fertilization. Wintersweets are afraid of waterlogging. Excessive soil moisture is not good for the growth of wintersweets and affect the differentiation and opening of flower buds. Therefore, water thoroughly every time they water and do not water frequently.

Finally, you must practice skillfully. After the flowers fade in early spring, you will perform back-cutting, and retain three pairs of buds at the base to encourage more branches of wintersweet. In late summer and early autumn, you must cultivate the tops of new branches that year, so that the buds of the middle and lower branches will develop full and full.