1. What should I do if earthworms have aphids?1 Scrape off the surface layer of soil, especially the surface soil around the feeding table, and use a window screen to sift out the soil and discard it. If there are some earthworms on the sieve, mix the earthworm bodies with 5% bleach water and then put them into the breeding pond. 2 Lower the temperature of the soil in the breeding pond and make the soil slightly drier. 3 Reduce or stop feeding. 4 Increase the density of earthworms to achieve the goal of winning by numbers and remove mites. 5 Kill the feed containing mites by high temperature. 6 Mix wheat bran with water and knead it into balls. Place three to five balls per square meter in the breeding pond. Throw away the wheat bran balls after 2 hours. Do this for a week and the number of mites can be greatly reduced. The main reason for aphids to grow in earthworms is You feed too much food, and the food residue breeds aphids You can use the soil replacement method to filter out aphids. Another simple method is to use sugar to lure aphids together and then Catch everything 2. How to remove the insects in the earth element pondIt is difficult to remove the insects in the breeding soil unless you replace the soil with new one, which is a very huge workload. It is inevitable that some insects will appear during the breeding period. We can only take some precautions and try to reduce them as much as possible. Raising earthworms requires garden soil and wood ash. The soil needs to be exposed to the sun before use because it contains eggs of some insects. Exposure to the sun can reduce the breeding of insects. In addition, the feed is also a source of insects. Some concentrated feeds such as wheat bran need to be soaked in boiling water and then mixed into the feed. This is better. Wash the green feed. Do not leave any leftover feed every day, otherwise it will breed some insects. We hope our answers can help you. Jiangsu Alliance Earthworm Breeding Base What insect 3. What conditions are needed to raise earthworms?(a) Hatching of eggs Choose a plastic basin with a smooth inner wall (50-80 cm) diameter, place 4 kg of eggs in it, and mix it with 1/2 of the volume of breeding soil. The temperature of the breeding soil should be kept at about 40°C (grab it into a ball, and it will break when it falls freely). The thickness of the basin with eggs and soil is 8-10 cm. The breeding soil should be prepared in advance and placed in the incubator for preheating. The temperature difference should not exceed 5°C. During the incubation period, the temperature should be kept at 25-30°C (the incubation temperature is preferably 28°C). Turn the eggs by hand 2-3 times a day. The movement should be gentle when turning to avoid damaging the earthworm egg mass. After 35-40 days of incubation, a large number of larvae will break out of the shell. At this time, the larvae can be screened out (using a 4 mm sieve), and the screened eggs are re-mixed with breeding soil. The larvae can be placed in a 10 cm thick breeding soil pool for breeding, and the larvae are screened every 2 days. Note: The formula of feeding soil is: the topsoil in the vegetable garden is sieved with a 4 mm sieve, mixed with 50% burnt rice husk ash and mixed evenly. If some livestock manure or crushed crop straw, sawn wood is added, the feeding soil will be fertile and loosened better. The humidity of the feeding soil is that it can be grasped by hand and will break into pieces when it falls to the ground. (II) Feeding and management 1. Larvae feeding and management: Larvae start to eat 2 days after hatching. At this time, they can be fed with some wheat bran, fruits, pumpkin flowers, small green vegetables, and pumpkin shreds. During the larval period, some nutritious food such as soybean powder, eggs, and milk can be added. For feeding, just sprinkle the feed on the surface of the breeding pool and keep the temperature at 25-43℃. 2. Feeding and management of middle-sized insects: The management of middle-sized insects is relatively extensive, and there are no special requirements for feed, as long as they can eat enough. 3. Feeding and management of egg-laying worms: Egg-laying worms require the soil to be 12 to 15 cm thick, and the feed requires a ratio of 50% green fodder and concentrated feed. If you can add a little soybean powder or animal meat scraps, it will be better to increase the nutrition of the earthworms. Feeding is fine as long as there is not much feed left on the surface of the earthworm pool by the next morning. The temperature in the breeding pool can be maintained at around 25℃, and the humidity is 60% to 70%. If the humidity is not enough, you can use a pesticide-free sprayer to humidify it, requiring small amounts and multiple times. (III) Pests and diseases and their control 1. Mites: Scrape off the top layer of soil in the breeding pond, sift it out with a sieve (window screen sieve), and throw away the soil. If there are some earthworms on the sieve, mix them with lime powder and put them into the earthworm pond. Do this once a day. After 5 days, there will be basically no mites. 2. Natural enemies: Earthworms have many natural enemies, such as rodents, ants, spiders, chickens, ducks, cats, etc. The breeding pond should be sealed to prevent the entry of natural enemies. To prevent spiders, vacuum the area once a week. 3. Pesticides: Be careful when feeding earthworms to prevent pesticides from contaminating the feed. Mosquito-repellent incense and pest control are also fatal to earthworms, and the use of activated carbon filters is strictly prohibited. What is Earth Yuan? Living habits of earthworms: Earthworms are an important medicinal insect that lives in dark, moist, humus-rich loose soil. They are afraid of sunlight, hide during the day and move at night. The most suitable temperature for their growth is 28-30℃. Temperatures below 0℃ or above 38℃ will cause a large number of deaths of adults and nymphs. When the temperature drops to 8℃, they stop moving and enter a dormant period. Earthworms need to go through three stages: egg, nymph and adult to complete a generation. It takes about 8 months for male insects to grow wings from nymphs, while female insects are wingless and mature in about 9-11 months. Male insects die 5-7 days after mating. Female insects can lay eggs one week after mating, and they will lay eggs for the rest of their lives after mating. Food variety sources of earthworms: Earthworms are omnivorous insects. Among their feeding characteristics, they like to eat fresh food. They like bran and rice bran the most, followed by cornmeal, broken grains, peanut cakes, soybean meal, miscellaneous fish, meat, and various grass and vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken, cow dung and other coarse materials. If only grass and other feeds are used for feeding, the growth rate will be slow. The complete feed can be 72% wheat bran, 20% cornmeal, 5% bean cake, and 3% animal feed (cooked feed). When feeding, use boiling water to scald, and add 30% to 40% green vegetables or fruits. After 5 to 6 months of feeding with complete feed, the individual can grow into an adult. The body structure of earthworms The adult earthworm mother is about 3.4 cm long and 2 cm wide. The body is oval, some earthworms have gray backs, some earthworms have white backs, flat up and down, brown-red chest, small head hidden in the prothorax, with a pair of antennae and a pair of more developed compound eyes. Chewing mouthparts, with transverse sections on the back, arranged in a shingle-like manner, 3 pairs of feet on the chest, 2 pairs of wings, which are more developed. The forewings are leathery, and the hind wings are membranous and translucent, folded on the back. They have the ability to fly short distances, and can fly up to 5 to 6 meters from top to bottom, and have a pair of tail whiskers. After mating between male and female earthworms, they lay eggs that resemble rice grains. It is 1 to 1.5 times larger than rice, about one centimeter long, and brown-red in color. There are longitudinal stripes on the surface of the egg mass. Each longitudinal stripe has a larva, arranged in two rows, and one egg mass contains 8 to 16 larvae. How to control temperature and humidity in earthworm breeding? The following methods can be used to control temperature and humidity: (1) Heating: When the required temperature cannot be reached in the breeding environment, a stove can be used to increase the indoor temperature and increase the local temperature of the pit or pool. (2) Cooling: If the temperature in the pit or pool exceeds the suitable temperature for the earthworm in summer, water can be sprinkled on the indoor ground, ventilation can be strengthened indoors and in the pit or pool, exhaust fans can be installed, or water basins and ice trays can be added to the pit or pool. If the temperature continues to be high and dead insects are found, they should be screened in time to screen out old nymphs or some adults, and used as medicine after processing to reduce the insect population density in the pit or pool and reduce the amount of food. (3) Humidification: When the humidity in the breeding ground or pit or pool is lower than 15%, spraying and ground sprinkling should be used, and objects with large evaporation surface after absorbing water, such as absorbent soft foam boards, cotton fiber fabrics, soaked clothes and quilts, should be hung in the corners of the pit or pool to dissipate moisture. (4) Dehumidification: When the humidity in the pit or pool exceeds 30%, dehumidification measures should be taken in time, such as opening doors and windows and exhaust fans to enhance ventilation. If the outdoor atmospheric humidity is too high and continues to rise, calcium chloride wooden boxes and quicklime boxes should be placed in the corners of the pit or pool to achieve the purpose of local dehumidification. 1. Living habits of earthworms. Earthworms are suitable for living in dark, moist, loose humus soil. In the wild, earthworms live in humus soil and gravel under kitchens, corners, deciduous trees. They can burrow into the soil to a depth of 0.5 to 0.6 meters. They rest in the soil during the day and move, forage and mate after dusk. Earthworms are omnivorous insects with a wide range of diets. In addition to a small amount of concentrated feed, most of their feed is wheat bran, fine bran and green fodder. They also eat various grains, animal residues, feces, etc. 2. Incubation of earthworm eggs. Spring is the best time for earthworms to lay eggs and breed offspring. Choose a plastic basin with a smooth inner wall and a diameter of 50 to 80 cm, place 4 kg of eggs in the basin, mix in breeding soil that accounts for 1/2 of the volume of the eggs, and keep the humidity of the breeding soil at 40% (it is required to form a ball by hand and fall freely). The thickness of the basin with eggs and soil is 8 to 10 cm. The breeding soil should be prepared in advance and placed in the incubator for preheating. The temperature difference should not exceed 5°C. During the incubation period, the temperature should be maintained at 25 to 30°C (the best incubation temperature is 28°C). Turn the eggs by hand 2 to 3 times a day. The movements should be gentle when turning to avoid damaging the earthworm egg mass. After 35 to 40 days of incubation, a large number of larvae will break out of the shells. At this time, the larvae can be sieved out (using a 4 mm sieve). After screening, the eggs are mixed with breeding soil again. The larvae screened out can be placed in a pool of 10 cm thick breeding soil for breeding. The larvae are screened every two days. Note: The breeding soil can be made of the topsoil in the vegetable garden, sieved with a 4 mm sieve, and then mixed evenly with 50% burnt rice husk (rice husk) ash. If some livestock manure or crushed crop straw and sawdust are added to make the breeding soil more fertile and loose, the effect will be better. The humidity standard of the breeding soil is that it can be grasped into a ball by hand and broken into pieces when it falls freely. Diseases and pests of earthworms and their prevention and control. As a small non-toxic insect-like animal, earthworms have many natural enemies. The fact that they can survive and reproduce to this day shows that they have a certain ability to avoid enemies and prevent diseases. However, some diseases and pests are also very lethal to them, such as mites and enteritis, which sometimes even cause them to die in large numbers. In the process of artificial breeding, the prevention and control of diseases and pests of earthworms is an important task that must be done on a daily basis. The diseases that often occur in earthworms are mainly physiological diseases, fungal diseases and nematode diseases; the main insect pests are ants, and other animals that cause harm include mites, spiders, house mice, geckos, toads, scorpions, chickens, ducks, cats, etc. Since artificial earthworms are raised in groups with high density, once harmful organisms occur, it will cause great losses, and sometimes even the whole army will be wiped out. Therefore, in terms of prevention and control, we should grasp the principles of prevention first, prevention is more important than treatment, and timely treatment. (1) Mites ① Because mites are active in the 1-2 cm area of the surface of the breeding soil, so the surface soil with mites can be dug out and sieved out with window screens. ② After soaking wheat bran, make it into small balls with a diameter of 1-2 cm. Place them on the surface of the breeding soil at 3-5 points during the day, and mites will swarm on them. After 1-2 hours, remove the bran balls together with the mites. Continuous trapping can remove more than 70% of the mites. ③ Combine the above methods and do not feed for 1-2 days. The mites will die of starvation, but the growth of earthworms will not be affected. (2) Big belly disease ① Add antibacterial drugs, add 5 grams of oxytetracycline to 100 kg of feed or 100 grams of coptis powder or garlic to 100 kg of feed, and feed for 3 consecutive days. ② Add 1 gram of yeast or 2 tablets of motherwort and 1 gram of complex vitamin B to each kilogram of feed, feed once a day for 3 consecutive days, which has a good effect on eliminating abdominal distension and promoting appetite. In addition, you should pay attention to adjusting the humidity of the breeding soil, feeding feed regularly and quantitatively, and the feed should be reasonably matched. Do not feed a certain feed for a long time. (3) Natural enemies There are many natural enemies of earthworms, such as: rodents, ants, spiders, chickens, ducks, cats, etc. The breeding pool should be sealed to prevent natural enemies from entering. To prevent ants, you can use the new drug cockroach ant net, and to prevent spiders, you can use a vacuum cleaner to sweep it once a week. (4) Pesticides When feeding earthworms, you must pay attention to preventing pesticides from contaminating the feed. Mosquito-repellent coils and pest control spirits can also be fatal to earthworms and should be strictly prohibited. Harvesting of earthworms. Three months after Chinese earthworms lay eggs, their peak spawning period has passed, and there will be a large number of deaths on the surface of the breeding pond. Choose a sunny day to harvest a large number of them at one time. The method is: use a 1 cm mesh sieve to dig the earthworms out of the pond with the soil and then sieve out the soil. Put the sieved earthworms into boiling water to kill them, rinse them and put them in the sun to dry. If it is a rainy day, use the drying method. To check whether the earthworms are dry, just squeeze the abdomen of the earthworm with your hands. If there is no soft material in the abdomen, it is a dry earthworm. The dryness rate of earthworms is 43%. Dried earthworms can be sold. The quality requirements are large, dry, free of impurities, and not moldy. How to better breed earthworms 8 |
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