CATDOLL : CATDOLL: Is it easy to keep bees? How to keep them?

Is it easy to keep bees? How to keep them?

Bees are not easy to keep. Honey bees are now divided into two types: Chinese bees and Italian bees. Chinese bees are easier to keep than Italian bees. Beekeepers need to be able to endure hardships. Italian bees rely entirely on manual management. Queen bees generally do not sting people, and neither do queen bees and drones. It is the worker bees that sting people. Queen bees are generally conceived once after mating and will lay eggs throughout their lives. Isn't it amazing? Generally, wherever the queen bee goes, the worker bees will flock there. The most feared thing in bee colony management is swarming, that is, when the queen bee finds that a new queen bee is born, she will duel with the new queen bee (unmated bee)! The winner will sting and bite the weaker one to death, and continue to stay as the queen. Often, most of the old kings will simply lead the strong bee colony to run away in anger, and the losses will be heavy! Large bee colonies running in the wild can be recovered! Put a honey bee tick next to a beehive and let the bees crawl over. The queen bee is usually in the center of the beehive. You can use a net to cover the prince or cut off half of the queen bee's wings, and the bees will be saved. In other words, if you catch the queen bee, the other bees will be obedient and none of them can escape. Put the queen back in a new beehive and cover the prince for a few days, and the bees will be safe. Every bee colony cannot be without a queen bee. ... There are too many stories about bees, and I can't finish telling them in three days and three nights. Haha!

Feeding:

1. Supplementary feeding: artificial feeding when nectar sources are scarce. The methods are as follows: ① Supplementary feeding with honey. Honey can be diluted with 20% warm water (crystallized honey needs to be boiled with a little water). The diluted honey can be fed to the bees by gavage or poured into a frame feeder. ② Supplementary feeding with syrup. Syrup is made by adding 50% white sugar to water, which is heated and fully dissolved and then cooled to lukewarm. It is best to add 0.1% citric acid to the syrup to facilitate digestion and absorption. Brown sugar should not be used at this time.

2. Reward feeding: artificial feeding during the bee colony breeding period and bee production period. Generally, a small amount of 60% nectar or 50% syrup is given every other day in early spring, and then once a day as consumption increases. The time starts from 40 days before the nectar flow period until there is a large amount of honey and pollen from the outside world. Each frame of bees can be rewarded with 50-100 grams of syrup each time.

3. Feeding pollen: The purpose is to supplement protein feed. In the late winter and early spring, the pollen saved in the previous autumn can be supplemented, and soybean powder can also be used instead. The feeding method is as follows:

(1) Liquid feeding: Add 10 times the amount of syrup to the pollen, boil it, wait for it to cool, and then put it in a feeding container for feeding.

(2) Cake feeding. Add an equal amount of honey or syrup to pollen or pollen substitute, mix thoroughly, and make into cakes. Wrap them with plastic paper, open at both ends, and place them on the frame beam for bees to feed. This method is often used during cold snaps.

4. Feed water and salts: ① Water. Generally, each bee colony needs 200-300 ml of water per day. Put water in the feeder or put a wet towel on the gauze cover for the bees to collect water. ② Salts. Add 1% salt to the syrup.

How to keep bees well and how to keep them from running away

Feng Wang, will he usually fly away?

1464676070 232765940 bees

What are the conditions and profits of beekeeping?

The profits of bees are related to the region and are quite random. Here we only provide the breeding conditions of bees:

1. Site conditions

There should be sufficient main nectar sources and auxiliary nectar and pollen sources within a radius of 2.5 kilometers around the site, and the main and auxiliary nectar and pollen sources should be appropriately matched; the site should be selected on a south-facing hillside with sufficient sunlight, backed by high mountains and natural shade above, with southerly winds in summer and northerly winds blocked in winter, and the soil should be fertile, with vigorous growth of nectar plants, a long flowering period, sufficient water and convenient transportation.

2. Selection of bee colonies

1. Purchase time: The best time to buy in the north is April to May. This is the breeding period of bee colonies, the selection is relatively stable, and the external environment is good, making it easy to raise bees successfully.

2. Selection method: Observe at the entrance of the nest. Those who are diligent in entering and exiting the nest and collect more pollen are generally lively and good. Then open the box for inspection. If the worker bees are quiet and not panicked, it means that the bee is gentle. If the queen bee is large, has thick feet, is tall and has a wide chest, a long and plump abdomen, is covered with dense hair, and lays eggs flexibly and quickly without panicking, it means that the queen bee is young and strong, and has a strong egg-laying ability.

3. Arrangement of bee colonies: It depends on the size of the site, the number of bees and the season. There are four arrangements: single-box arrangement, double-box arrangement, staggered arrangement and triple-box arrangement.

3. Feeding

1. Supplementary feeding: artificial feeding when nectar sources are scarce. The methods are as follows: ① Supplementary feeding with honey. Honey can be diluted with 20% warm water (crystallized honey needs to be boiled with a little water). The diluted honey can be fed to the bees by gavage or poured into a frame feeder. ② Supplementary feeding with syrup. Syrup is made by adding 50% white sugar to water, which is heated and fully dissolved and then cooled to lukewarm. It is best to add 0.1% citric acid to the syrup to facilitate digestion and absorption. Brown sugar should not be used at this time.

2. Reward feeding: artificial feeding during the bee colony breeding period and bee production period. Generally, a small amount of 60% nectar or 50% syrup is given every other day in early spring, and then once a day as consumption increases. The time starts from 40 days before the nectar flow period until there is a large amount of honey and pollen from the outside world. Each frame of bees can be rewarded with 50-100 grams of syrup each time.

3. Feeding pollen: The purpose is to supplement protein feed. In the late winter and early spring, the pollen saved in the previous autumn can be supplemented, and soybean powder can also be used instead. The feeding method is as follows:

(1) Liquid feeding: Add 10 times the amount of syrup to the pollen, boil it, wait for it to cool, and then put it in a feeding container for feeding.

(2) Cake feeding. Add an equal amount of honey or syrup to pollen or pollen substitute, mix thoroughly, and make into cakes. Wrap them with plastic paper, open at both ends, and place them on the frame beam for bees to feed. This method is often used during cold snaps.

4. Feed water and salts: ① Water. Generally, each bee colony needs 200-300 ml of water per day. Put water in the feeder or put a wet towel on the gauze cover for the bees to collect water. ② Salts. Add 1% salt to the syrup.

IV. Management

1. Spring management: ① Promote bees to fly and excrete. Raise the temperature in the center of the nest to 33-35℃, provide sufficient nectar and pollen sources or reward feeding, open the box cover and insulation in time to allow them to fly out of the nest and excrete. ② Insulate the hive. After excretion, the bees enter the breeding period, so artificial insulation must be adopted. Compact the hive and make the colony dense. Raise multiple colonies in the same box, and keep the box warm inside and outside. In the north, it lasts until April to May.

2. Management during the honey flow period: ① Adjust and organize the honey collection group in the early stage. ② Maintain strong groups to collect honey. Control the queen bee's egg laying. Use a queen excluder to restrict the queen bee to one area of ​​the hive or the hive. To cut off the brood and collect honey, you can take out the queen bee and 1 to 2 honeycomb bees from the honey collection group 5 days before the big honey flow period to form another small group. The next day, give the honey collection group a mature queen cell, which can greatly increase the honey production. Pay attention to the management of small groups. For those weak groups that cannot collect honey, create conditions to promote the rapid development of the group. Under the premise of appropriate honey collection, we must do a good job of reproduction to replenish the group.

3. Management in autumn: ① Cultivate new queens and replace old and inferior queens. ② Cultivate overwintering bees of appropriate age. Overwintering bees of appropriate age refer to young bees that have emerged from their cells before overwintering, have only performed two or three excretion flights, have not done any feeding or collecting work, and have not secreted royal jelly. In order for overwintering bees to overwinter safely, the birth of young bees born after the nectar flow period must be controlled to maintain the strength of the bee colony. The method of control is to force the queen bee to stop laying eggs at a certain time during the nectar flow period. ③ Timely early termination of offspring. In the later stage of cultivating overwintering bees, first use honey and pollen to press the combs, and pour honey 2 to 3 times, so that the queen bee will stop laying. At the same time, move the bee colony to a cool place, expand the bee path by 1 time, and take out the pollen combs from the hive, and remove the insulation, so as to terminate offspring early.

4. Winter management: ① Adjust the nest door. The height of the nest door should be 6-7 mm and the width should be 60-70 mm. ② Prevent honey crystallization. Strengthen insulation, or stuff some wet cotton balls into the box through the nest door to reduce ventilation. ③ Wintering indoors in the north. The beehive should be moved indoors before the water freezes and the ground is not covered with snow. When moving indoors, the beehive should be 20 cm away from the wall indoors, and the first layer should be 40 cm away from the ground. The room temperature should be kept at 0-2℃, and the humidity should be kept between 75-80%.