CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How to artificially breed maggots

How to artificially breed maggots

The necessary condition for maggot breeding is temperature.

If the temperature is below 20℃, flies will stop breeding or enter hibernation, not eating or moving. Plastic sheds can only be used for seasonal breeding. In late autumn, severe winter, and early spring, the temperature does not meet the requirements, and breeding in the shed is futile.

Maggot feed: The feed for productive breeding of maggots must be cheap waste, preferably chicken manure produced by professional chicken farmers. Calculated based on 3 catties of chicken manure to 1 catties of maggots, productive breeding requires a lot of feed. If you buy soy sauce residue, tofu residue or other waste, the cost is too high and the result is often not worth the gain.

It is best to have your own poultry or fish farming professional household to carry out productive breeding of fly maggots with self-consumption ability, so as to reduce the feed cost of poultry and fish and improve economic benefits.

Fly maggot breeding is largely unhygienic, so when choosing a breeding site, pay attention to the following points:

Stay away from residential areas. Chicken manure or other waste piled up in the yard will allow adult flies to enter the house and bite and crawl around, affecting human health.

Pay attention to the year-round wind direction. Pay attention to the local year-round dominant wind direction and set up the maggot breeding farm on the leeward side of the chicken farm to prevent the odor from drifting into the breeding room and chicken house, affecting the healthy growth of breeders and chickens.

Keep away from water sources. Fly maggot farms must be far away from self-supplied water sources and public water sources to prevent sewage from seeping into the ground, causing water quality deterioration and affecting the water use of chickens.

Waste dumps and productive maggot breeding sites must have dedicated areas for the storage of chicken manure and maggot breeding waste to prevent environmental pollution.

The construction of breeding rooms and sheds The area of ​​the insulation room and shed is calculated as 1 square meter for every 1 kilogram of maggots produced. Rooms and sheds that are too large are not conducive to heat preservation, and too small cannot guarantee the output. This is a major problem in maggot breeding, which involves investment issues. If funds permit, a cold-proof insulation room can be built for year-round breeding; if funds are insufficient, greenhouse-style seasonal breeding can be carried out. Simple outdoor breeding is affected by temperature and rain. The breeding time in the south is longer and that in the north is shorter. This type of breeding can neither guarantee the output nor harm environmental hygiene, so it is not recommended. The following points should be paid attention to when constructing sheds for productive breeding:

To ensure that the indoor temperature of the greenhouse is above 25℃, the indoor walls should be of a certain thickness, the doors and windows should be tight, and there should be heating and temperature control facilities indoors. The temperature of the plastic greenhouse is too high in summer, and it is difficult to reach 25℃ in cold seasons, so it is not suitable for breeding.

When breeding in a rainproof and sun-proof shed, pay attention to rain protection to avoid damaging the breeding environment of fly maggots. In midsummer, pay attention to avoid sun exposure to prevent the fly maggot feed from drying up and causing the maggots to die.

The specific structure, scale and shape of rooms and sheds can be adapted to local conditions and do not have to be forced to be consistent, as long as they are applicable.

Productive breeding management of maggots can be roughly divided into two parts: inducing flies to lay eggs and the growth of maggots.

Due to the instinct of safe hatching, female flies usually lay eggs in a quiet or sheltered place rich in nutrients. To understand this habit of female flies, you can use plastic square plates, cans and other containers, put nutrients (meat bones, leftover soup, fish offal, watermelon rinds, wheat bran, sugar solution and other waste) in them, and place them in a quiet place to lure flies to lay eggs. When the eggs hatch into maggots, you can move them into chicken manure to let them grow.

When feeding and managing fly maggots during their growth process, it is important to understand that after the maggots mature, they no longer need to be fed with feed, but begin to crawl outward into the soil to pupate, and the maggots should be collected or caught in a timely manner.

Fly maggot breeding can be divided into two types: dry and wet. Dry breeding is: spread chicken manure on plastic sheeting or cement floor, 80 cm wide, 10-15 cm high, and unlimited length. After the fly eggs or hatched larvae are moved on, water is sprinkled to maintain a certain humidity, and the eggs or larvae can hatch and grow. Wet breeding is: build a non-leaking pool of 30 cm deep, 60-80 cm wide, and unlimited length in the room or shed, put water in the pool, put chicken manure in and stir it into a thick slurry, move the fly eggs in, and it can hatch into maggots and grow. Regardless of dry or wet breeding, when the fly maggots grow, the maggot manure should be cleaned in time and new chicken manure should be replaced regularly to increase production.

Processing and storage of fly maggots The collected or fished fly maggots should be put into hot water to kill them in time, then fished out and dried in the sun (dry), or directly mixed into corn crushed feed and fed in time. Wet maggots mixed into corn flour should not be left for a long time to avoid mold and deterioration.

The daily output of fly maggots is high, and the moisture content must be controlled after drying to facilitate long-term storage. When processing fly maggots, rotten and deteriorated dead maggots must be picked out to avoid affecting the quality of maggot powder.

How to raise fly maggots

First, the size and depth of the pond should be appropriate. If it is too large, the adult maggots cannot crawl out; if it is too deep, the fly maggots actually move within 5 cm of the surface of the material, causing waste; if it is too small or too shallow, it cannot hold much material, affecting the production of maggots and easily losing water. The width is generally 60~80 cm, the length is generally 100~120 cm, and the depth is generally 15~20 cm. The slope of the four walls is preferably 45 degrees, and the slope length is about 25 cm. It is based on the capacity of 10 cm thick and 100 kg of base material. Different raw materials have different pond sizes. It is better to raise maggots in feces, and it is better to raise them in larger sizes if they are discarded blood, flesh, and animal offal. The maggot climbing troughs on the upper part of the four sides are not suitable if they are too wide, too deep, or have a large slope. From another perspective, if the fly maggots cannot crawl out and pupate, they must not be allowed to turn into flies anyway. The pupae and base material must be scattered together for the chickens to eat. This is a last resort. In addition, if the scale of breeding is not large, use plates, basins, boxes, etc. to hold bran, pig manure, blood and meat and other wastes mixed with AM biological bacteria, and put them out in the morning (note: the surface should be kept moist, and if necessary... First, make a pool with appropriate size and depth. If it is too large, the adult maggots cannot crawl out; if it is too deep, the fly maggots actually move within 5 cm of the surface of the material, causing waste; if it is too small or too shallow, not much material can be loaded, which affects the production of maggots and is easy to lose water. The width is generally 60~80 cm, the length is generally 100~120 cm, and the depth is generally 15~20 cm. The slope of the four walls is preferably 45 degrees, and the slope length is about 25 cm. It is suitable to hold 10 cm thick and 100 kg of base material. The raw materials are different, and the size of the pool is also different. It is better to raise maggots in feces in a smaller size, and waste blood, flesh, and animal viscera in a larger size. The maggot troughs on the upper part of the four sides are not suitable if they are too wide, too deep, or have a slope. From another perspective, if the maggots cannot crawl out and pupate, they must not be allowed to turn into flies. The pupae and the base material must be scattered together for the chickens to eat. This is a last resort. In addition, if the scale of breeding is not large, use plates, basins, boxes, etc., and put bran, pig manure, blood, flesh and other wastes mixed with AM biological bacteria, put them out in the morning (note: the surface must be kept moist, and sprinkle some water if necessary), and collect them in the afternoon. After a few days, there will be maggots. After a few days, you can feed chickens. I would like to say a few more words about the pond practices. Recently, a maggot farmer sent me an email saying that he is now using the method of setting up a maggot collection bucket in the corner of the pond, but only about 30% of the maggots can crawl into the bucket, and most of them are still playing in the culture medium! In this way, the yield per unit area cannot be increased, and there is a lot of waste. It is too labor-intensive to use phototropism and other methods, and the cost increases, which is really frustrating. I asked if there is a good way. Setting up maggot collection buckets in the four corners is the practice of all maggot farmers except me. There are problems: First, the maggots have to crawl out to pupate. After finally crawling to the edge of the pond, they have to turn around. When they are tired and can no longer crawl, they can only pupate on the spot; second, the maggot collection bucket only occupies such a corner, and the maggots have no destination when crawling out, and they may not all fall into the maggot collection bucket. Third, the maggot collection bucket is arranged in the pond, and the height of the substrate in the pond is limited. My approach is different. Based on the maggots' ability to climb up slopes, the four sides are made into a slope shape. This way, once the maggots encounter the slope, they will rush to climb up, avoiding long journeys. On top of the slope, a maggot climbing trough is made. When the maggots climb up the slope, they fall into the maggot climbing trough. Restricted by the two vertical walls, they can only move naturally along the trough to the maggot collection buckets at the four corners. A few points to note: (1) Sprinkle some water on the four slopes in the evening to help the maggots climb up. Remember: do not sprinkle water into the trough to prevent the maggots from climbing out of the trough. (2) In the morning, sweep the maggots still in the maggot climbing trough into the maggot collection bucket before daybreak and take them away to prevent birds from snatching food. (3) The size of the pool varies depending on the raw materials. Bran is larger and feces is smaller. (4) If you find that the maggots cannot climb out, sprinkle more water in the pool. The water should not be too much, otherwise the small maggots will also crawl out. The second is the base material. The base materials for fly maggot culture are generally divided into three categories. The first category is agricultural byproduct scraps, such as wheat bran, rice bran, wine (vinegar) dregs, and bean dregs; the second category is animal feces such as cow dung, horse dung, pig dung, chicken dung, and animal tripe dung from slaughterhouses, which are fermented and fermented; the third category is animal blood and flesh discarded from slaughterhouses. The first category mainly requires a good mix of the various components, which are generally as follows: (1) 60% pig dung and 40% chicken dung; (2) 60% chicken dung and 40% pig dung; (3) 80% pig dung, 10% wine dregs, and 10% corn or wheat bran; (4) 30% cow dung, 60% pig dung or chicken dung, and 10% rice bran or corn flour; (5) 20% to 50% bean curd dregs and 50% to 80% chicken and pig dung; (6) 70% chicken dung or 70% pig dung and 30% cow dung; (7) one third each of pig dung and chicken dung, and one third of cow dung. (8) Sheep tripe manure 20%, cow manure 30%, pig and chicken manure 50%. The second type of substrate requires short, fine and fresh raw materials. Before use, mix two or more substrates in proportion and spread them flat. The pH is required to be between 6.5 and 7.0. If it is too acidic, it can be adjusted with lime, and if it is too alkaline, it can be adjusted with dilute hydrochloric acid. For example, the ratio of chicken manure to pig manure is 1:2, which is the best for maggot breeding. Generally, the thickness of the material is kept at about 7 to 10 cm, and the humidity is about 70% to 80%. When using pig manure to breed maggots, please pay attention to the following: fresh pig manure has a relatively high humidity, so it is necessary to mix some manure with a lower humidity, or do not add water in the first one or two days after feeding, so that the water can evaporate naturally; sheep tripe manure is relatively fine, so it is necessary to add some crude fiber or raw materials with good air permeability, such as cow manure, bran, straw, etc., but it cannot be all manure with low nutrition, and some pig and chicken manure should also be added. The third type produces a lot of maggots. Be careful not to let the exposed fly eggs be dried (die) or eaten by hungry flies. Turn the eggs over every day, especially when the sun is directly shining, or cover them with some animal manure or bran. Sprinkling some water can also relieve it. As long as it takes overnight, the fly eggs will turn into small maggots, and you don’t have to be afraid. The small maggots will automatically drill underneath when they see the heat. The third is temperature. Temperature directly affects the survival, growth and development, and life activities of houseflies. In actual production, it is more appropriate to control the breeding temperature of fly maggots at 25~30℃. If it is lower than 22℃, the growth cycle will be prolonged. If it is higher than 40℃, the fly maggots will crawl out of the culture medium and look for a cool and suitable temperature. The lifespan is longest at a suitable temperature of 20~30℃, which can reach 50~60 days. The fly maggots are most active at 30℃, and they rest in a cool place above 30℃; if the temperature exceeds 35℃, the fly maggots will be restless, and they cannot lay eggs at 39℃. 4