CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How to build a tuyuan breeding farm (breeding pond)

1. How to build a soil yuan breeding farm (breeding pond)

Breeding pond construction

Cement board

The aisle of the breeding house is generally not less than 70, and the widest is no more than 1 meter, because we have to step on it to operate and manage. If it is too wide, the span is too large and it is not easy to operate. If it is too narrow, we can turn around and it is inconvenient to do anything. It is generally between 70 and 1 meter. In this way, you can step on the edge of the pool when you go up and down in the daily cleaning, without moving the ladder, which saves a lot of trouble. The spacing of the breeding pool has also been scientifically calculated, which is more economical and practical than in the past, and is generally controlled at about 40 cm. In this way, the basin can be just stuck in, and then when feeding, I can put the bottom one down, and when I go up, I can directly put it on this side, sprinkle it here and there, and then walk forward and stick it on again, which is much more convenient to operate. This kind of three-dimensional breeding not only reduces the construction cost, but also significantly improves the work efficiency. In fact, it also saves the cost of management.

This three-dimensional farming method means that one person can normally manage 400 square meters of farming area. If it is the previous farming method, one person can only manage 100 square meters. In comparison, 400 square meters can save the labor of three people. That is to say, the wages of three people are saved. The lowest wage of three people is 30,000 yuan, and this 30,000 yuan is all net profit.

Asbestos Tile

Asbestos tiles can completely replace the prefabricated panels under the cement pool. The construction cost is reduced by half compared to the cement pool, only 25 yuan per square meter. Not only is the cost low, but the construction is also faster.

The prefabricated panels used before were generally 3 cm, 2.5 to 3 cm thick, but it was about one square meter, which means it was quite difficult for two people to lift it. In the past, using cement prefabricated panels, three people could only build 30 to 40 square meters of aquaculture ponds in a day, but now using asbestos tiles, they can build about 100 square meters in a day.

Compared with the previous pool made of asbestos tiles, how much direct construction cost can be saved? Wei Bin did the math for us:

If we use plastic basins, this 20 square meter house can raise fish in an area of ​​50 square meters, but the cost is about 3,000 yuan. If we use cement pools, we can raise fish in an area of ​​100 square meters, and the cost is about 5,000 yuan. Later, we improved the asbestos tiles, which can also raise fish in an area of ​​100 square meters, but the cost is about 2,500 yuan, which is enough, including the labor cost.

I also want to start raising earthworms. Can you tell me whether you contact the sales channels yourself or join the purchase? I am worried that no one will buy the earthworms after I raise them well. Thank you very much! !

I am from Linyi, Shandong. I raise this myself. I know how to do it. Is it three-dimensional? I wonder where you are from?

Since you can find the varieties and technologies, how can you build it if the other party doesn't provide them to you? QQ 964427879

I built it last year. It was very troublesome. I have to see the real thing.

2. How many meshes are usually used in the sieves used for breeding earthworms?

It doesn't matter how many holes you have, as long as it's convenient for you. The main thing is the size of the holes. You need to prepare two sieves from the beginning of breeding to the final sale. The first sieve hole is used when the earthworms are hatching, and you need to replace it with sawdust. The size of the sieve hole is just right so that the sawdust can pass through, but the earthworm eggs can't go down. The second one is when you need to sell your earthworms, the sieve hole should be larger, so that the earthworm eggs can go down, but the finished earthworms can't go down. Then use a small sieve to sift it again, and you can sift out the soil again.

There are no strict requirements on the mesh size of the sieve used for breeding earthworms. If the mesh size is too large, it will be useless. Any number of mesh sizes will do, as long as it is convenient to use.

The most advanced method of earthworm breeding is the three-dimensional constant temperature breeding method, which has high economic benefits. Earthworms in the south grow much longer in the natural environment than those in the north, and have stronger adaptability. Therefore, there is no regional difference when introducing them from the south to the north, just like transplanting plants from the natural environment to the greenhouse, the plants can also grow well.

3. What conditions are needed to raise earthworms?

(a) Hatching of eggs

Choose a plastic basin with a smooth inner wall (50-80 cm) diameter, place 4 kg of eggs in it, and mix it with 1/2 of the volume of breeding soil. The temperature of the breeding soil should be kept at about 40℃ (grab it into a ball, and it will break when it falls freely). The thickness of the basin with eggs and soil is 8-10 cm. The breeding soil should be prepared in advance and placed in the incubator for preheating. The temperature difference should not exceed 5℃. During the incubation period, the temperature should be kept at 25-30℃ (the incubation temperature is preferably 28℃). Turn the eggs 2-3 times a day with your hands. When turning, the action should be gentle to avoid damaging the earthworm egg mass. After 35-40 days of incubation, a large number of larvae break out of the shell. At this time, the larvae can be screened out (using a 4 mm sieve), and the screened eggs are re-mixed with breeding soil. The larvae can be placed in a 10 cm thick breeding soil pool for breeding, and the larvae are screened every 2 days.

Note: The formula of feeding soil is: the topsoil in the vegetable garden is sieved with a 4 mm sieve, mixed with 50% burnt rice husk ash and mixed evenly. If some livestock manure or crushed crop straw, sawn wood is added, the feeding soil will be fertile and loosened better. The humidity of the feeding soil is that it can be grasped by hand and will break into pieces when it falls to the ground.

(II) Management of feeding sparrows

1. Larvae feeding and management: Larvae start to eat 2 days after hatching. At this time, they can be fed with some wheat bran, fruits, pumpkin flowers, small green vegetables, and pumpkin shreds. During the larval period, some nutritious food such as soybean powder, eggs, and milk can be added. For feeding, just sprinkle the feed on the surface of the breeding pool and keep the temperature at 25-43℃.

2. Feeding and management of middle-sized insects: The management of middle-sized insects is relatively extensive, and there are no special requirements for feed, as long as they can eat enough.

3. Feeding and management of egg-laying worms: Egg-laying worms require the soil to be 12 to 15 cm thick, and the feed requires a ratio of 50% green fodder and concentrated feed. If you can add a little soybean powder or animal meat scraps, it will be better to increase the nutrition of the earthworms. Feeding is fine as long as there is not much feed left on the surface of the earthworm pool by the next morning. The temperature in the breeding pool can be maintained at around 25℃, and the humidity is 60% to 70%. If the humidity is not enough, you can use a pesticide-free sprayer to humidify it, requiring small amounts and multiple times.

(III) Pests and diseases and their control

1. Mites: Scrape off the top layer of soil in the breeding pond, sift it out with a sieve (window screen sieve), and throw away the soil. If there are some earthworms on the sieve, mix them with lime powder and put them into the earthworm pond. Do this once a day. After 5 days, there will be basically no mites.

2. Natural enemies: Earthworms have many natural enemies, such as rodents, ants, spiders, chickens, ducks, cats, etc. The breeding pond should be sealed to prevent the entry of natural enemies. To prevent spiders, vacuum the area once a week.

3. Pesticides: Be careful when feeding earthworms to prevent pesticides from contaminating the feed. Mosquito-repellent incense and pest control are also fatal to earthworms, and the use of activated carbon filters is strictly prohibited.

What is Earth Yuan?

Living habits of earthworms: Earthworms are an important medicinal insect. They live in dark, moist, humus-rich loose soil. They are afraid of sunlight, hide during the day and move at night. The most suitable temperature for their growth is 28-30℃. Temperatures below 0℃ or above 38℃ will cause a large number of adults and nymphs to die. When the temperature drops to 8℃, they stop moving and enter a dormant period. Earthworms need to go through three stages: egg, nymph and adult to complete a generation. It takes about 8 months for male insects to grow wings from nymphs, while female insects are wingless and mature in about 9-11 months. Male insects die 5-7 days after mating. Female insects can lay eggs one week after mating, and they will lay eggs for the rest of their lives after mating. Food varieties and sources of earthworms: Earthworms are omnivorous insects. They like to eat fresh food. They like bran and rice bran the most, followed by cornmeal, broken grains, peanut cakes, soybean meal, miscellaneous fish, meat, various grass and vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken, cow dung and other coarse materials. If only grass and other feeds are used for feeding, the growth rate will be slow. The complete feed can be 72% wheat bran, 20% cornmeal, 5% bean cake, and 3% animal feed (cooked feed). When feeding, use boiling water to scald, and add 30% to 40% green vegetables or fruits. After 5 to 6 months of feeding with complete feed, the individual can grow into an adult. The body structure of earthworms The adult earthworm mother is about 3.4 cm long and 2 cm wide. The body is oval, some earthworms have gray backs, some earthworms have white backs, flat up and down, brown-red chest, small head hidden in the prothorax, with a pair of antennae and a pair of more developed compound eyes. Chewing mouthparts, with transverse sections on the back, arranged in a shingle-like manner, 3 pairs of feet on the chest, 2 pairs of wings, which are more developed. The forewings are leathery, and the hind wings are membranous and translucent, folded on the back. They have the ability to fly short distances, and can fly up to 5 to 6 meters from top to bottom, and have a pair of tail whiskers. After mating between male and female earthworms, they lay eggs that resemble rice grains. It is 1 to 1.5 times larger than rice, about one centimeter long, and brown-red in color. There are longitudinal stripes on the surface of the egg mass. Each longitudinal stripe has a larva, arranged in two rows, and one egg mass contains 8 to 16 larvae. How to control temperature and humidity in earthworm breeding? The following methods can be used to control temperature and humidity: (1) Heating: When the required temperature cannot be reached in the breeding environment, a stove can be used to increase the indoor temperature and increase the local temperature of the pit or pool. (2) Cooling: If the temperature in the pit or pool exceeds the suitable temperature for the earthworm in summer, water can be sprinkled on the indoor ground, ventilation can be strengthened indoors and in the pit or pool, exhaust fans can be installed, or water basins and ice trays can be added to the pit or pool. If the temperature continues to be high and dead insects are found, they should be screened in time to screen out old nymphs or some adults, and used as medicine after processing to reduce the insect population density in the pit or pool and reduce the amount of food. (3) Humidification: When the humidity in the breeding ground or pit or pool is lower than 15%, spraying and ground sprinkling should be used, and objects with large evaporation surface after absorbing water, such as absorbent soft foam boards, cotton fiber fabrics, soaked clothes and quilts, should be hung in the corners of the pit or pool to dissipate moisture. (4) Dehumidification: When the humidity in the pit or pool exceeds 30%, dehumidification measures should be taken in time, such as opening doors and windows and exhaust fans to enhance ventilation. If the outdoor atmospheric humidity is too high and continues to rise, calcium chloride wooden boxes and quicklime boxes should be placed in the corners of the pit or pool to achieve the purpose of local dehumidification. 1. Living habits of earthworms. Earthworms are suitable for living in dark, moist, loose humus soil. In the wild, earthworms live in humus soil and gravel under kitchens, corners, deciduous trees. They can burrow into the soil to a depth of 0.5 to 0.6 meters. They rest in the soil during the day and move, forage and mate after dusk. Earthworms are omnivorous insects with a wide range of diets. In addition to a small amount of concentrated feed, most of their feed is wheat bran, fine bran and green fodder. They also eat various grains, animal residues, feces, etc. 2. Incubation of earthworm eggs. Spring is the best time for earthworms to lay eggs and breed offspring. Choose a plastic basin with a smooth inner wall and a diameter of 50 to 80 cm, place 4 kg of eggs in the basin, mix in breeding soil that accounts for 1/2 of the volume of the eggs, and keep the humidity of the breeding soil at 40% (it is required to form a ball by hand and fall freely). The thickness of the basin with eggs and soil is 8 to 10 cm. The breeding soil should be prepared in advance and placed in the incubator for preheating. The temperature difference should not exceed 5°C. During the incubation period, the temperature should be maintained at 25 to 30°C (the best incubation temperature is 28°C). Turn the eggs by hand 2 to 3 times a day. The movements should be gentle when turning to avoid damaging the earthworm egg mass. After 35 to 40 days of incubation, a large number of larvae will break out of the shells. At this time, the larvae can be sieved out (using a 4 mm sieve). After screening, mix the eggs with breeding soil again. Screen out the larvae with high tip and place them in a pool of 10 cm thick breeding soil for breeding. Screen the larvae every two days. Note: The breeding soil can be made of the topsoil in the vegetable garden, sieved with a 4 mm sieve, and then mixed evenly with 50% burnt rice husk (rice husk) ash. If you add some livestock manure or crushed crop straw and sawdust to make the breeding soil more fertile and loose, the effect will be better. The humidity standard of the breeding soil is that it can be grasped into a ball by hand and broken when it falls freely. Diseases and pests of earthworms and their prevention and control. As a small non-toxic insect-like animal, earthworms have many natural enemies. The fact that they can survive and reproduce to this day shows that they have a certain ability to avoid enemies and prevent diseases. However, some diseases and pests are also very lethal to them, such as mites and enteritis, which sometimes even cause them to die in large numbers. In the process of artificial breeding, the prevention and control of diseases and pests of earthworms is an important task that must be done on a daily basis. The diseases that often occur in earthworms are mainly physiological diseases, fungal diseases and nematode diseases; the main insect pests are ants, and other animals that cause harm include mites, spiders, house mice, geckos, toads, scorpions, chickens, ducks, cats, etc. Since artificial earthworms are raised in groups with high density, once harmful organisms occur, it will cause great losses, and sometimes even the whole army will be wiped out. Therefore, in terms of prevention and control, we should grasp the principles of prevention first, prevention is more important than treatment, and timely treatment. (1) Mites ① Because mites are active in the 1-2 cm area of ​​the surface of the breeding soil, so the surface soil with mites can be dug out and sieved out with window screens. ② After soaking wheat bran, make it into small balls with a diameter of 1-2 cm. Place them on the surface of the breeding soil at 3-5 points during the day, and mites will swarm on them. After 1-2 hours, remove the bran balls together with the mites. Continuous trapping can remove more than 70% of the mites. ③ Combine the above methods and do not feed for 1-2 days. The mites will die of starvation, but the growth of earthworms will not be affected. (2) Big belly disease ① Add antibacterial drugs, add 5 grams of oxytetracycline to 100 kg of feed or 100 grams of coptis powder or garlic to 100 kg of feed, and feed for 3 consecutive days. ② Add 1 gram of yeast or 2 tablets of motherwort and 1 gram of complex vitamin B to each kilogram of feed, feed once a day for 3 consecutive days, which has a good effect on eliminating abdominal distension and promoting appetite. In addition, you should pay attention to adjusting the humidity of the breeding soil, feeding feed regularly and quantitatively, and the feed should be reasonably matched. Do not feed a certain feed for a long time. (3) Natural enemies There are many natural enemies of earthworms, such as: rodents, ants, spiders, chickens, ducks, cats, etc. The breeding pool should be sealed to prevent natural enemies from entering. To prevent ants, you can use the new drug cockroach ant net, and to prevent spiders, you can use a vacuum cleaner to sweep it once a week. (4) Pesticides When feeding earthworms, you must pay attention to preventing pesticides from contaminating the feed. Mosquito-repellent coils and pest control spirits can also be fatal to earthworms and should be strictly prohibited. Harvesting of earthworms. Three months after Chinese earthworms lay eggs, their peak spawning period has passed, and there will be a large number of deaths on the surface of the breeding pond. Choose a sunny day to harvest a large number of them at one time. The method is: use a 1 cm mesh sieve to dig the earthworms out of the pond with the soil and then sieve out the soil. Put the sieved earthworms into boiling water to kill them, rinse them and put them in the sun to dry. If it is a rainy day, use the drying method. To check whether the earthworms are dry, just squeeze the abdomen of the earthworm with your hands. If there is no soft material in the abdomen, it is a dry earthworm. The dryness rate of earthworms is 43%. Dried earthworms can be sold. The quality requirements are large, dry, free of impurities, and not moldy.

How to better breed earthworms 8