CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How to raise red worms (how to raise red worms video)

1. How to eliminate red nematodes?

Use bleach: You can use 84 disinfectant, bleach, disinfectants, etc. to disinfect sinks, sewers and other areas that are damp for a long time to prevent red nematodes from crawling out.

Use vinegar to kill insects: drop vinegar on the insects, and it can kill the insects in 3 seconds, which is very effective.

2. What are the many red bugs growing on vegetable leaves and flower leaves? How to prevent and control them?

Red spider mites are prone to grow in hot and humid weather. You can either use pesticides (there are special drugs for treating red spider mites on the Internet) or use physical methods. Red spider mites are afraid of water, so flush them with water once a day and educate them for 3-5 days.

3. What are red worms?

Red worms are the larvae of chironomids, and their mouthparts are degenerate and they cannot suck blood. In the north, they are sold in flower and bird markets. There are about 5,000 known species of Chironomids in the world. They are similar to common mosquitoes, but the main difference is that their antennae are densely covered with fine hairs, just like feathers.

Another difference is that its mouth (stylet) has degenerated and does not have the function of sucking. Therefore, we can say that it will not bite.

Red worms have another ability, which is that they can live in a relatively oxygen-deficient environment because they have hemoglobin in their bodies, which is why they are blood red.

4. How to eliminate red bugs that are smaller than sesame seeds

It is a kind of sandworm that grows in water. You can kill it by sprinkling quicklime where the worms are.

5. How to raise red springtails?

It likes humidity and high temperature throughout its life cycle. It likes to live in the dirty humus on both sides of sewage ditches, as well as on floating objects such as dead branches and rotten wood on the shore of ponds.

After maturity, they lay eggs in cracks in dry mud or between rotten wood pieces and under bricks and stones. The eggs are in irregular piles, with dozens to hundreds of eggs in each pile. They are creamy yellow and turn orange-yellow when they hatch. They mainly feed on rotten wood.

6. What do red nematodes eat?

Red nematodes generally refer to water earthworms. Water earthworms mainly feed on organic debris in mud, and they especially like to eat sweet and sour bait. Livestock and poultry manure, domestic sewage, and waste from agricultural and sideline product processing are their main sources of bait. Some materials say that the manure should be fully fermented first, otherwise the manure will ferment in the pool and produce high heat to burn the body. But in actual production, manure can be directly fed to water earthworms without going through the fermentation process, and the growth of water earthworms is better. Because many nutrients in the fermented manure are converted into water and inorganic salts, water earthworms cannot use these inorganic salts as a source of nutrition, so they grow weakly and the production cost is also high. However, fermented manure also has its advantages. The water maggots, harmful bacteria, and parasite eggs produced are less, and the odor in the field is small. Producers can comprehensively consider and choose the production method they need. Feeding is an important part of the breeding process. Feeding in small amounts and multiple times helps to achieve high yields. During the peak production period, feed once every three days or so, and add 50 to 100 kg of manure per mu each time. Mix the water into a paste and sprinkle it all over the pond. Water should be stopped half an hour before and after feeding to avoid the loss of manure. Feeding should follow the principle of feeding more when the temperature is high and less when the temperature is low. The amount of feed should also be adjusted according to the expected yield. Daily management should pay close attention to the amount of remaining bait in the field. Do not blindly feed more to achieve high yields. Too much organic matter accumulation in the field will produce a large amount of harmful substances due to fermentation, inhibiting the growth and reproduction of water maggots, and seriously affecting the yield. Water earthworms, also known as red silk worms and red nematodes, belong to the aquatic oligochaetes among annelids, with bright red or blue-gray body color. They mostly live in the mud on the banks or riverbeds of rivers and are densely packed on the surface of the mud. One end is fixed in the mud, and the other end extends out of the mud and trembles in the water. Once disturbed, they immediately retract into the mud. The nutritional value of water earthworms is extremely high. They must be rinsed repeatedly in clean water before feeding. They are a favorite food for goldfish and koi, and are also the main food for eel fry and young turtles. When the tide of the Huangpu River in Shanghai recedes, a large number of water earthworms grow in the mud on the shore. Every spring and autumn, people catch them in large quantities. They are edible.

7. How to raise mealworms?

Biological characteristics: Mealworms, commonly known as mealworms and big mealworms, belong to the phylum Arthropoda, class Insecta, order Coleoptera, family Tenebrioideae, genus Mealworms. They are native to America and are now distributed throughout the country. They are an important warehouse insect. Because mealworms are cold-blooded animals, their growth activities and life cycle are closely related to the external temperature and humidity. Life history

Mealworms are holometabolous insects that go through four stages in their life cycle: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The life history and the time spent in each stage are closely related to the environmental temperature, humidity, feed, and feeding management. After the adult reaches sexual maturity, they mate freely. The peak egg-laying period is within 1-2 months after mating, and thereafter, they rarely lay eggs. The female body of the mealworm is generally larger than the male body, but the appearance is basically the same. The tail of the female adult is very pointed, and the ovipositor droops and extends out of the shell, so it lays eggs on the egg-receiving paper through the mesh.

At a temperature of 20-32°C and a relative humidity of 65%, the hatching time is 5-12 days, including about 10 days at 20-24°C, 6-7 days at 25-29°C, and 5-6 days at 30-32°C. The optimum hatching temperature is 21-26°C. When the temperature is above 33°C, the life span of the adult is shortened, and the egg laying is rare or impossible. When the temperature reaches above 38°C, the life span of the adult is only 5 days.

The larvae that have just hatched from the eggs have 13-16 instars and molt 9-12 times at room temperature of 15-32℃. Most of them molt 17-19 times, and become pupae after 75-200 days. The emergence rate can reach 93%-100%. At this time, the sex ratio of adults is 1:1. They mate and lay eggs about 4 days after emergence. They lay eggs on the surface of feed at night, and often dozens of eggs stick together. The surface is stained with food debris. The life span of female insects varies from 1 to 4 months. After 1.5 months of laying eggs, the egg production decreases and they can be eliminated. If the temperature is too high or too low, and the humidity is not suitable, especially in the north with low temperature and low humidity, the emergence time is prolonged, the emergence rate becomes low, and black dead pupae and dry pupae often appear. The emergence period is generally 12-14 days. Adults go through a 2-4 month breeding period, during which the main factors affecting reproduction are temperature, humidity, nutrition, and fertilization. When the relative humidity is 20%, females lay only 4 eggs per day, while at 65%, they can lay 102 eggs. If the humidity reaches 100%, most of the larvae die when they grow to 2-3 years old. Under suitable temperature, humidity and nutrition conditions, especially when the protein supply is increased, the egg-laying capacity of adults can be doubled, and the life span and breeding time of adults can be extended.

Larvae have the same feeding habits as adults, but different feeds directly affect the growth and development of larvae. Reasonable feed formula and better nutrition can accelerate growth and reduce breeding costs. Under certain temperature and humidity conditions, the nutritional content of feed is the key to larval growth. If fed with reasonable compound feed, it will not only be low in cost, but also grow faster and increase reproduction rate. Stop feeding when larvae grow to 3-8 years old, and the larvae can withstand hunger for more than 6 months.

Lifestyle

Although adult mealworms have wings, most of them do not fly. Even if some do, they cannot fly far. They start mating and laying eggs 4-5 days after the adults emerge from their pupae. Mating occurs both at day and night, but more at night than during the day. A mating session takes several hours. They mate and lay eggs many times in their lifetime, with 6-15 eggs laid each time. Each female adult can lay 30-350 eggs in its lifetime, and most of them lay 150-200 eggs. The eggs stick to the bottom of the container or on the feed. The life span of adults is 3-4 months. Mealworms were originally granary pests distributed worldwide. Under natural conditions, there is generally one generation per year in the north and two generations per year in the south. They overwinter as mature larvae. They pupate from the end of May to the beginning of June each year, emerge from their pupae in mid-June, start laying eggs in mid-July, and enter the overwintering period in early October. Under good artificial domestication conditions, there are three generations per year, and the life cycle is shortened over the same period, but they still retain many wild habits.

① Aggregation: Both larvae and adults of this insect live in groups, and they grow, develop and reproduce better in groups. This lays the foundation for high-density factory farming.

② Both the larvae and adults of negatively phototactic mealworms prefer strong light and are highly active in weak light or darkness.

③ When larvae and adults encounter strong stimulation from their natural enemies, they pretend to be dead and motionless. This is an adaptation to escape from enemies.

④ The omnivorous mealworm originally fed on grains, but when raised artificially, it feeds on processed grain bran, leafy vegetables, rhizomes, fruits, etc. It also eats dead pupae, dead adults and other animal carcasses, becoming omnivorous.

⑤ The natural ratio of male to female mealworms can reach 3.5-5:1. If the living environment is not good and there is a lack of feed, the number of male mealworms will exceed that of females, and the ratio of male to female will be 1:4, and the survival rate will be low. When artificially breeding mealworms, the ratio of male to female is required to be 1:1 when the breeding worms are released.

⑥ Other habits The optimum temperature for growth and reproduction is 25-32℃, and the relative humidity of the air is 65%-70%. It hibernates at 0-8℃, and freezes to death below 0℃. It is killed by high temperature above 38℃. It becomes restless at 35-37℃ and may escape. The red mealworms will suffocate and die quickly in the water due to the obstruction of the stomata. The red mealworms have a high tolerance to drought, especially the larvae, which can feed on grains and their by-products and live for more than half a year without leaf buds. The red mealworms have poor stress resistance at 0-8℃. The survival rate of larvae can reach 60%-80% within half a year, while that of pupae drops to 30%, and all adults die within 1 month.

Breeding sites and equipment

① Selection of breeding site

The insect farm for red mealworms should have power supply and convenient transportation to facilitate the transportation of feed, insect feces and red mealworms. It is best to have a feed planting site nearby. The insect room should face north and south, and have ventilation, temperature control, humidity control and light-shielding facilities. The insect room can be divided into a breeding room and a larvae room. The indoor floor is generally cement.

② Breeding room

The breeding room is used to raise adult mealworms and lay eggs, and the collected eggs are regularly hatched. The larvae are raised in the larval room after 1-2 months of age, and the breeding worms are raised in the breeding boxes. The breeding room should be protected from light and ventilated, and there should be heating and heat preservation equipment in winter. The size of the breeding room depends on the number of mealworms raised. Generally, a room of 20m2 can raise 300-500 boxes.

The temperature inside the breeding room should be maintained at 15-25℃ in both winter and summer. If the temperature is below 10℃, the insects will not eat or grow, and if the temperature exceeds 30℃, the insects will burn to death. The temperature should be maintained at 60-70%, the ground should not be too wet, heating should be provided in winter, ventilation should be provided in summer, and thermometers and hygrometers should be available indoors.

③ Feeding box

The specifications and size of the breeding box can be determined according to the scale of breeding and the space used. It can be large or small, but the inner wall of the box must be smooth to prevent larvae from crawling out and adults from escaping. The size of the breeding box is generally 60cm long, 40cm wide and 6cm high. The bottom is a 18-mesh wire mesh. The mesh size should be large enough for adults to extend their ovipositors at the end of their abdomen to lay eggs in the bran under the wire mesh, but should not allow the entire body of the insect to drill out of the mesh. A transparent tape should be attached to the inside of the frame to prevent adults from crawling out of the box.

Each insect breeding box is placed under the net with a plywood larger than the net bottom, and a piece of old newspaper of the same size is placed on the plywood. Bran is evenly spread between the wire mesh and the old newspaper, and some granular bait and leafy vegetables are placed on the wire mesh. Each insect breeding box contains 0.1-1 kg of adult worms, and each insect breeding box and the padding paper are stacked at a certain angle to a height of about 1.5m.

Sieve plates and sieves: Use iron sieves of different sizes. The 12-mesh large-hole sieve can sift insect eggs; the 30-mesh medium-hole sieve can sift insect feces; the 60-mesh small-hole sieve can sift 1-2 instar larvae.

The hatching box is the same size as the larval box. It is 60cm long, 40cm wide and 8cm high. It can be made of plastic or wood. There should be no gaps between the four walls and the bottom of the wooden insect box. Tape should also be attached to the upper edge of the side wall to prevent the larvae from escaping. Larvae over 1-2 months old should be kept in a wooden box to increase air permeability and prevent water vapor condensation. The bottom of the hatching box and larval box does not use wire mesh, but plastic or wooden bottom boards. Each box is stacked at a certain angle to 1.5m high. A sidewalk or a gap of more than 20cm is left between the box stacks for easy management or ventilation.

Feeding and management

① Feeding and management of adult insects

The room temperature is controlled at 25-32℃, the relative humidity is 65%-70%, and the room is dark or weak light. 1-3 days after emergence, the outer wings of the adult change from white to red and black, and the activity changes from weak to strong. No feed is needed during this period. 4 days after emergence, the adult begins to mate and lay eggs, entering the peak breeding period. Every morning, an appropriate amount of complete granular feed should be put in, such as 45% bran, 20% flour, 6% cornmeal, 5% fish meal, 24% bean cake or 40% wheat bran, 40% corn meal, 18% bean cake, 0.5% feeding vitamins, 1.5% mixed salt. This formula is mainly used to feed adults and larvae; or 75% wheat bran, 4% fish meal, 15% corn meal, 4% sugar, 0.8% feeding compound vitamins, 1.2% mixed salt is mainly used to feed adults in the egg-laying period. Add an appropriate amount of leafy vegetables with multiple moisture content, and change the egg-laying paper and the bran on it every 2 days. It should be noted that the concentrated feed must be disinfected and dried before use. Fresh wheat bran can also be used directly. Do not bring too much water into the feeding box to prevent the feed from getting moldy. It is best not to feed moldy feed.

During the adult reproduction period, some adults die after reproduction. For such naturally dead adults, there is no need to pick them out. They will soon be eaten by living adults, leaving only the elytra and head, which can make up for the nutrition of the adults. When raising seed adults, check the seed boxes frequently, plug the holes and gaps in the seed boxes in time, keep the tape intact and smooth, and prevent the room temperature from being too high and the invasion of natural enemies. Two months after the seed adults lay eggs, in order to improve the utilization rate of the seed boxes and space, and improve the hatching rate and survival rate, it is best to eliminate all the seed insects in the box and replace them with new adults. The eliminated seed insects can be used as bait to feed the forest frog. In order to control the appropriate temperature and humidity in the seed room, ventilation, cooling and dehumidification should be done in summer, and door curtains and screens should be set up to prevent flies from entering. Chemical pesticides cannot be used to kill mosquitoes and flies in the adult room, otherwise they will kill the adults and larvae of red mealworms. Similarly, leafy vegetables that have been exposed to insecticides cannot be fed to adults. In winter, seed adults should be well kept warm and humidified.

The stacking angle, height and number of adult boxes and hatching boxes should be determined according to the temperature, humidity and ventilation requirements.

② Management during the incubation period

The mealworm hatching box is incubated in the adult room. Key points for management:

1) Place the incubator box properly to make full use of the space, facilitate management, and facilitate ventilation, temperature control, and humidity control.

2) Provide the optimal incubation temperature of 21-27°C and relative humidity of 65%.

3) Prevent rodent and insect pests.

4) After hatching, promptly move the hatching box to the larval room and promptly move the new egg box into the hatching room.

③ Larvae feeding and management The purpose of feeding red mealworms is to obtain their larvae as daily animal bait for forest frogs. Therefore, the feeding of larvae is very important. When the temperature is 20-35℃, the relative humidity of the air is 50-70%, and the larvae are fed with bran and leafy vegetables, the larval period is about 120 days. For the convenience of feeding and management, 0-1 month old larvae are called small larvae; 1-2 month old larvae are called middle larvae, 2-4 month old larvae are called large larvae, and larvae before pupation are called mature larvae.

1) Feeding and management of small larvae

After 6-7 days of hatching, the eggs of mealworms will first emerge from the eggshell with their heads, and the body will be about 2 mm long. After eating part of the egg membrane, they will crawl into the bran in the hatching box and feed on the bran. At this time, the old newspapers should be removed, and the bran together with the small larvae should be shaken into the box for feeding. When they grow to 4-5 mm, their body color will become lighter, and they will begin to molt for the first time after 1-2 days of not feeding. After molting, their bodies will turn white, and turn light red after about 2 days. They will molt once every 4-6 days, and they will gradually grow into medium larvae with a body length of 6-10 mm and a body width of 0.6-1 mm through 4 molts within a month. The feeding and management during this period are simple, and the main points are as follows:

a. Control the material temperature at 20-32℃, the optimum material temperature is 27-32℃.

b. Relative humidity of air is 65-70%.

c. Sprinkle a small amount of leafy vegetable fragments on the surface of the bran frequently to make its moisture content reach 20%. When the bran is eaten and becomes micro-spherical insect feces, sprinkle some more bran appropriately. When the larvae reach 1 month old, sieve them with an 80-mesh net and evenly divide the remaining larvae into 2 larval boxes for feeding.

It is worth noting that although the small larvae consume little, they should be fed immediately after hatching, otherwise the small larvae will eat the larvae that have just hatched from the egg box.

2) Feeding and management of larvae

The growth and development of 1-2 month old larvae accelerates, their consumption gradually increases, and their excretion also increases. After one month of feeding and management, the larvae undergo 5-8 molts, and their body length can reach 10-20mm, with an average individual weight of 0.07-0.15g. The following should be achieved in management:

a. The temperature inside the insect colony is controlled at 20-32℃, the optimum temperature is 27-32℃, the relative humidity of the air is 65%-70%, and the room is dark or with weak diffuse light.

b. Feed bran and leafy vegetable fragments once in the morning and evening every day, with a feeding amount of about 10% of the insect's body weight, or feed 70% wheat bran, 25% corn flour, 4.5% soybeans, and 0.5% multivitamins. The actual feeding amount depends on the insect's health, age, environmental conditions, etc.

c. Screen the feces every 7-10 days, with a sieve size of about 40 mesh.

d. When the larvae are 2 months old, sift out the feces and divide each box of large larvae into 2 parts and put them into the large larvae box.

3) Feeding and management of large larvae

After molting 8 times, the large larvae, which are about 2 months old, eat a lot, grow and develop fast, and excrete a lot under normal feeding and management. After molting 13-15 times, they become mature larvae. The thickness of the large larvae cluster is 1-1.5cm, and must not be thicker than 2cm. When sparse density is used for breeding, each box can reach 5,000. The mature larvae eat less and soon become pupae. When the body length of the mature larvae reaches 22-32mm, the weight reaches the maximum. At this time, the mature larvae are the best period for use as bait for forest frogs over two years old. The management points during this period are:

a. Control the material temperature at 20-32℃, the optimum material temperature is 27-32℃.

b. Provide sufficient bran and leafy vegetables according to the actual food intake of large larvae, ensure that they are fed and eaten on the same day, and the fecal conversion rate reaches over 90%.

c. Sift the feces every 5-7 days and use a fan to blow away the molted skin.

d. Feed leafy vegetables that are high in water and fresh, which big insects like to eat; but they cannot contain too much water, and the feeding amount should not be too much, otherwise the insects may become too warm and humid, and die from being soaked in water.

4) Management during the pupal emergence period

The pupal period is 1-2 weeks from the time when the mature larvae turn into pupae to the time when they emerge as adults. Although they appear to be not eating or moving during the pupal period, huge changes occur in their bodies, and they are very sensitive to external environmental conditions. In order to ensure the smooth and high-quality completion of the emergence process, the pupal management work should be done carefully.

① Provide the appropriate temperature of 24-32℃ and relative humidity of 65% required for eclosion.

② Keep the indoor environment clean and hygienic. Smoking, spraying pesticides and sanitary chemicals indoors are prohibited.

③ Do not turn over or squeeze the pupa.

④ Remove the emerged adults promptly to prevent them from biting the unemerged pupae.

⑤ Effectively prevent rats, ants, crickets, rain leaks, gas, and fire.

5) Issues to pay attention to during the entire breeding process:

① Non-breeding personnel are prohibited from entering the breeding room. If they enter the room, they must disinfect the door with quicklime.

② In the life history of mealworms, the four metamorphosis are important links. By mastering the metamorphosis time, shape, and characteristics of each link, you can master the breeding technology.

③ The feed should be fresh, the bran should not deteriorate, and the vegetables should not rot.

④ During the larval stage, change the feed every time it molts, sift the feces in time, and add new feed. During the adult stage, there are eggs and insect feces at the bottom of the feed, which is easy to mold, so the tray should be changed in time.

⑤ In order to speed up reproduction and growth, add appropriate amount of glucose powder or vitamin powder, fish meal to the feed of larvae and adults after emergence, and feed fresh vegetables every day.

⑥ The breeding staff should check the conditions of each insect stage every day. If diseased or dead insects are found, they should be removed in time to prevent bacterial infection.

⑦ The breeding of mealworms should be carried out according to the plan. The number of insects raised should be connected with the number of Chinese forest frogs, so that the number of larvae of each age should be fully recorded to ensure the success of mealworm breeding. To breed 100,000 young frogs, 90kg of small larvae and 400kg of medium larvae are needed.

⑧ Prevent the invasion of natural enemies of mealworms.

Disease prevention and treatment

Under normal feeding and management conditions, mealworms rarely get sick. However, as the feeding density increases, the incidence of disease also gradually increases. Therefore, it is necessary to check in time and solve problems in time.

① Soft rot

This disease often occurs in the rainy season due to high humidity, fecal contamination, feed deterioration, high stocking density, and excessive force during larval feces cleaning and grading, which causes worm injuries. The larvae are slow to move, have a decreased appetite, have watery and clear feces and finally excrete black feces, and their bodies gradually become soft and black. The excretions of diseased insects can infect other insects. If not handled in time, the entire box of insects will die. Prevention and control: If soft worms are found, they should be handled in time, green vegetables should be parked, leftover food should be cleaned, and indoor humidity should be adjusted. Mix 0.25g of chloramphenicol or chloramphenicol with 250g of wheat bran and feed.

② Dryness

When the insect is sick, the tail and head dry up and then the whole body dries up and dies. The cause is too dry air and too dry feed. Prevention and control: In the dry season, feed green feed in time, sprinkle water on the ground to humidify, and set up water basins to cool down.

③ Mite disease

Mites are very harmful to mealworms, causing them to be thin, slow to grow, with low hatching rates and reduced reproduction rates. Causes: Feed humidity is too high, temperature is too high, and food is contaminated with mites. It usually occurs from July to September. Prevention and control methods: Adjust the indoor air humidity and keep indoor air circulation in summer to prevent food from being contaminated with mites. Feed should be stored in a sealed container. Rice bran and wheat bran should be disinfected and fed after drying. Generally, 40% trioxychloride at 1000 times should be used to spray corners, feeding boxes and feed.

8. How to preserve red nematodes?

1. Simple culture method Red nematodes live in a humid environment and can still produce even if they do not eat for one or two days. At this time, the red nematodes can be preserved as long as the temperature is suitable. Wrap the red nematodes gently with a wet towel and place them in a cool place.

2. Soil maintenance method: Use soil to preserve red nematodes, and the soil keeps the red nematodes in a moist and dark place.

3. Low temperature preservation method: Generally, unused red nematodes are placed in glass or ceramic stainless steel containers, with some clean water, and then the containers are placed in the refrigerator. The water is changed every one or two days, and the dead red nematodes are cleaned up, so that the red nematodes can be preserved for a longer time. It is best not to eat dead worms for fish. If there are no worms, they can be fed with fish food. Extended information: The nutritional value of red nematodes: Red nematodes reproduce quickly and have high nutritional value (62% crude protein in dry matter, 35% total essential amino acids, and 98% nitrogen recovery rate). They are the opening bait that many aquatic animals like to eat during the seedling period, and they are also the main food for benthic fish such as sturgeon, mandarin fish, carp, crucian carp, loach, giant salamander and yellow eel. The types of red nematodes suitable for breeding are: Su's tail gill earthworm and Huo's water earthworm. Raising red nematodes well can provide long-term and stable high-quality animal feed for farmed aquatic products, reduce breeding costs, and improve breeding benefits and quality.