CATDOLL : CATDOLL: Breeding techniques for golden coin turtles, matters needing attention in breeding golden coin turtles

Breeding technology of golden coin turtle, matters needing attention in breeding of golden coin turtle

Site selection: The site for breeding golden coin turtles must ensure sufficient water sources and a quiet environment. Environment: Golden coin turtles do not have high requirements for the environment. The water temperature is between 20-30℃ and the water quality is kept clean and refreshing. Feeding: Golden coin turtles can be fed more small fish, shrimps, etc., and some vegetables and fruits can be supplemented at ordinary times. Regular disinfection: The breeder must also conduct regular inspections and disinfections to prevent them from getting sick. 1. Golden coin turtle breeding technology 1. Site selection: To breed golden coin turtles, you must first choose a suitable breeding site. Before breeding, you must choose a site with sufficient water sources and unpolluted water quality. In addition, the breeding site must be convenient for drainage and irrigation. In addition, the breeding site must be quiet because they are easily frightened and need a quiet environment when breeding.

2. Environment: Golden coin turtles do not have high requirements for the environment. The breeder only needs to keep the water temperature between 20-30℃ and the water quality clean and fresh, and they can survive well. If they are bred in small quantities, you can use a heating rod to prevent them from overwintering. If they are bred in large quantities, it is best to let them overwinter together.

3. Feeding: Golden coin turtles are omnivorous animals, and breeders need to feed them more animal feed to ensure that they have adequate nutrition during their growth and development. However, they also need to be supplemented with some plant feed to ensure their balanced nutrition.

4. Regular disinfection: When breeding golden coin turtles, they need to be sterilized and disinfected regularly to reduce the chance of them getting sick. The breeder can take a few turtles every few days to check their health.

2. Precautions for breeding golden coin turtles When breeding golden coin turtles, first pay attention to the size of the space. They are larger in size after adulthood and grow faster, so breeders should pay attention to the size of the breeding container and the number of turtles released. Also pay attention to the frequency of water changes. If you use a small pond for breeding, you need to change the water once a week. If you use a large pond for breeding, you can drain some old water every 2-3 days and add some new water.

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To breed golden coin turtles, you need to choose a good place first. You need to choose a place that is sheltered from the wind and facing the sun, with sufficient water and good water quality. Before breeding, you need to choose a good turtle species, which should be disease-resistant and without any injuries. Then prepare the feed. You can plant some green plants next to it as plant feed. You can also feed it some animal feed, such as snail meat, or feed it with other feed.

When raising golden coin turtles, be careful not to overfeed them. Feed them small and frequent meals.

Extended information;

Living habits;

1. Environment: The golden coin turtle lives in hilly areas, basins in semi-mountainous areas, slow rivers, etc. The golden coin turtle likes to crawl to the ground to bask in the sun during the day and come out to forage and move around at night.

2. Temperature: The most active period for golden coin turtles is from the end of April to the beginning of October. The most suitable temperature for their growth is 18 degrees to 32 degrees. Golden coin turtles will hibernate at a temperature of about 10 degrees. When the temperature is between 35 degrees and 36 degrees, they will experience some physical discomfort.

3. Diet: The Stone Golden Circle Turtle is an omnivorous animal. It likes to eat some insects, loaches, snails, small fish and shrimps, as well as some wheat, rice, fresh grass, etc.

1. Breeding equipment Yellow-throated water turtles are both cold-resistant and heat-resistant, and have low requirements for breeding conditions and environment. As long as there is water and food, they can grow and develop normally. They can be raised in water tanks, basins, pools, etc. It is best for professional households to build ponds with slag fuel, and use bricks and cement to build a 60-centimeter-deep pool, the area of ​​which should be determined according to the number of turtles. The newly built pool must be rinsed with clean water and dried for 3 to 5 days before use. When in use, the bottom of the pool needs to be covered with 20-centimeter-thick mud and sand. A 60-centimeter-high wall should be built around the pool to prevent the turtles from escaping. In addition, a layer of fine sand should be laid between the pool and the wall for them to go ashore and lay eggs. 2. Diet and feeding behavior Yellow-throated water turtles are omnivorous and have a wide range of food. Under artificial breeding conditions, they like to eat poultry offal, lean pork and its offal, various insects, small fish and shrimp, earthworms, etc., and also eat cereal feed and plant feed such as fruits and vegetables. Yellow-throated water turtles like to forage for food in the water. When feeding, they first crawl close to the food, stare at it with their eyes, then suddenly stretch their necks, bite the food and swallow it. If the food is too large, they use their two front paws to tear the food into pieces before swallowing it. 3. Reproduction: They reproduce by laying eggs, and can lay eggs 4 times a year. They usually mate from the end of April to the beginning of May, and the egg-laying period is from early June to September. They lay eggs when the water temperature rises to about 25℃, with 3 to 5 eggs laid each time. The male-female ratio of pond turtles should be 3:1, and they should be allowed to mate naturally. During the egg-laying period of yellow-throated water turtles, it is better to collect fresh eggs at any time for artificial incubation. The specific method is: spread about 20 cm thick fine sand that can be squeezed by hand to form a ball at the bottom of the incubator about 30 cm high, and then bury the turtle eggs one by one in 3 cm deep fine sand, cover with a wet towel, sprinkle water twice a day, keep the humidity at 80%, and the temperature between 25℃ and 30℃. After 60 days to 80 days, the baby turtles can be hatched. 4. Feeding and management: 1. Feeding and management of baby turtles Before entering the pond, the baby turtles need to be soaked and disinfected with 2 mg/L of potassium permanganate, and then placed in a baby turtle pool with a water temperature of 25℃ to 30℃. After 3 days, feed a mixture of cooked wheat, millet, eggs, etc. After 90 days, they can be transferred to the adult turtle pool for feeding. 2. Feeding and management of adult turtles Under artificial breeding conditions, small fish and shrimp, various insects, livestock and poultry viscera and various animal meats can be fed. Yellow-throated water turtles like to forage for food in the water, so food should be placed on a feeding table by the water. The amount of food fed should be enough for the turtle to eat, which is generally about 8% of its body weight. The feeding time varies with the season. It is suitable to feed around noon from April to May and October, and between 8 and 9 in the morning from June to September. July is the peak egg-laying period for turtles, so the amount of feeding should be increased. In order to keep the pond water clean, the pond water should be changed frequently. Generally, it should be changed every 5 to 7 days in spring and autumn, and every 2 days in summer. After November every year, when the temperature is below 15°C, the yellow-throated water turtle will lie in the sand and mud at the bottom of the pond and hibernate. At this time, no food is needed, and no water needs to be changed, but attention should be paid to heat preservation.

About the staple food: Hamsters are omnivorous animals and can eat almost anything. But the staple food is grains: Water: Hamsters do not need to drink water. If they want to drink water, remember to boil it! It must be absolutely clean. Shishi's hamsters are fed vegetables and fruits by their mother to absorb water! Because they are really small, a little water is enough! They love to eat green vegetables the most. Remember to rinse the green vegetables and blow dry them in the wind. Yellow sprouts and cabbage are also OK! But they must be washed! Like tomatoes, cucumbers, apples and oranges can all be given to them. . About sunflower seeds. There are also various kinds of melon seeds, such as sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, watermelon seeds, etc. Hamsters love to eat them. Hamsters like to eat sunflower seeds very much, but the fat content of sunflower seeds is high. If hamsters eat too much, they will cause obesity, picky eating, malnutrition and other problems. Therefore, sunflower seeds can only be used as snacks or as non-essential items to enhance affection. Do not feed too much, at most one or two per meal. However, if it is winter, you can give more to the hamster to increase the calories and survive the cold winter. . Food that cannot be eaten. Although hamsters are omnivorous animals, there are still some things that they cannot eat. If they are eaten accidentally, they will have diarrhea at the least and die at the worst. Be careful!! . Spicy (irritating) food. Such as peppers, green peppers, onions, garlic, ginger, leeks, and nine-layer pine. . The kernels of peaches, plums, and apples. It is said that it will cause the heart rate of hamsters to accelerate, and may lead to symptoms such as shock. The detailed reason is not very clear, but it is better to believe it and be careful. Therefore, it is easy to cause hamsters to eat too much, and die of tachycardia. . Food for people. Food for people, after cooking, is too oily and too salty for hamsters, which is very harmful to their health. Especially meat dishes or other oily snacks should not be given to hamsters! ! About the environment. How to cool down. Hamsters wear thick fur coats all year round, so in the hot and humid summer, hamsters are very sad. Yun doesn't like to let hamsters use air conditioning (occasionally it's okay), because this will reduce the heat tolerance of hamsters. Even people will get sick from air conditioning, let alone hamsters!! Yun has many ways to help hamsters cool down, and put forward a few good ones for your reference. 1. Replace the hamster house with a ceramic house, and the hamster can sleep in it coolly. 2. Lower the indoor temperature, open the windows and doors to increase convection, and turn on the electric fan to circulate the air. 3. Put less sawdust, just a thin layer. 4. Take the PET bottled water to the freezer to freeze, and put it outside the hamster cage. Remember to be careful not to let the water drip into the cage. The frozen PET bottle will emit cold air, which can make the hamster feel cool. 5. Take a small glass bottle of cold water and put it in the cage, so that the bottle body will be cool, and the hamster can rely on heat dissipation. The reason for using a glass bottle is that the bottle will not leak when bitten by the hamster and the glass bottle has a cooling effect. 6. Put a stone or tile in the cage, the hamster will sleep on it to cool off, but when choosing a stone or tile, pay attention to whether the edge is too sharp to cause injury to the hamster. . How to keep warm. 1. Replace the mouse house with a plastic house, which can be replaced by a napkin roll. 2. Move the mouse cage to a place where the cold wind cannot reach. 3. Put more sawdust, about 3-5 cm thick. 4. You can put in napkins, and the hamster will make a warm bed to sleep on. 5. When the weather is really cold, you can cover the mouse cage with a piece of cloth to block the cold wind, but be careful not to cover it too tightly to suffocate the hamster. Cultivate feelings when you first arrive. At the beginning, the owner should put the new hamster in the observation cage for a week. On the one hand, let the hamster adapt to the smell, sound and temperature of the owner's home. On the other hand, you can also use this time to train the hamster to go to the toilet in the mouse toilet and let the hamster get used to interacting with the owner. One thing to note is that you should always call the hamster's name so that the hamster can respond to the name. Steps to cultivate affection: . Rest. When the hamster comes home on the first day, don't be too eager to play with it, because the hamster will be nervous after just changing to a new environment, so let the hamster rest for a day. . Habituation. Starting from the second day, feed the hamster with food at a fixed time every day, so that the hamster will quickly get used to your hands and smell. The feeding method is to put the food on the palm of your hand, put your hand quietly into the cage and stop without moving, let the hamster slowly approach, and don't alarm the hamster when it is eating, otherwise it will be wary of your hand. At the beginning, the hamster may not want to approach at all or run away immediately after eating a bite. Don't be anxious at this time, take your time!! . Get close. After a week, when the hamster is used to the environment, you can move it to a big cage. At this time, I think the hamster should be more used to eating from your hand (a bolder hamster may have dared to climb onto your hand). You can also try to let the hamster eat from your hand (that is, hold the hamster in your palm and let it eat on your palm, but be careful not to let the hamster fall). While the hamster is eating, you can call its name softly and touch its head gently. Remember not to force it. If the hamster is unwilling or afraid, take it slowly. Each hamster has a different personality, and everything depends on the owner to figure it out!! . Understand each other. Let the hamster get used to the way you call it. For example, most owners will knock on the cage door and call the hamster's name before taking the hamster out, let the hamster walk to the cage door by itself, smell the owner's smell, and then take it out. The owner also needs to understand what the hamster likes and dislikes. Some hamsters will bite you first if you don’t call them to the door before taking them out of the cage.