CATDOLL : CATDOLL: What is the price of earthworms?

Price of earthworms?

In 2014, the market price of finished earthworm products was about 60 yuan for first-class products and about 40 yuan for second-class products. If purchased from the medicinal materials market, the first-class products were about 66 yuan and the second-class products were about 45 yuan.

We usually talk about egg masses for seed preservation. First of all, we need to see whether the eggs and worms are strong. It is not acceptable if the mother worms are uneven or die too much. For seed preservation, we usually select the second or third batch of eggs. These eggs are neat in shape, strong in physique, and easy to hatch and manage. In the whole process of raising earthworms, the hatching and management of the eggs is a key link. It is directly related to the success of the breeding and the economic benefits. There are many ways to hatch, such as: (1) indoor temperature-controlled hatching (2) constant temperature incubator (3) kerosene lamp heating hatching. We believe that the latter two methods are not as direct as indoor temperature-controlled hatching. Choose an incubator of appropriate size. If you want to hatch 50 kg of earthworm eggs at a time, you need 6 cubic meters of space. Mix the eggs and the breeding soil together and put them in the incubator. At the same time, start heating and humidification. Use a coal stove or electric stove for heating. When using a coal stove for heating, you should pay attention to using a pipe to discharge the coal gas outside the incubator. The temperature in the incubator should be kept at 28℃~30℃ for a long time. It should not fluctuate. The relative humidity should be kept at 50~60%. Choose a plastic box with a diameter of 60 to 80 cm. Each plastic box can hold 4 kg of eggs. It needs to be turned over once or twice a day. The worms will start to emerge in about 20 to 30 days, and they will generally emerge in 43 days. When the earthworm egg mass is hatched in a suitable environment, the white larvae will shed their shells after about 30 days. The feeding soil sinks due to the crawling of the larvae, and the egg mass floats up, or when there are many small white larvae when it is turned over, the larvae can be screened out by using a 4 mm hole sieve to separate the egg mass and the larvae, and then adding preheated feeding soil to the earthworm egg mass to mix well, the ratio is 1:1, and do not use a too fine sieve to sieve the larvae, which will reduce the survival rate of the larvae. The screened worms can be directly placed in the breeding pool for breeding. The breeding soil in the breeding pool should be thickened to about 12 cm, and the temperature and humidity should be the same as in the hatching room. The larvae placed in the breeding pool can be fed, and pumpkin shreds or vegetable leaves mixed with wheat bran can be directly fed. If a little bean cake powder is added to increase nutrition, the effect will be better. When hatching larvae in winter, you should pay attention to the following: During the hatching period, the feeding soil cannot be sprayed with water, but can only be replaced. The humidity of the feeding soil should be kept so that it will fall apart when it is squeezed into a ball by hand. The temperature should not fluctuate. The replaced feeding soil must be preheated.

How many days does it take for larvae to become adults?

Do you know how to breed earthworms?

Earthworm, formerly known as ground beetle, is also known as ground beetle, earth beetle, crossing the street, ground turtle, segmented insect, mother bug, earthworm. It is an insect with a flat body, brown-black in color. The male has wings, while the female is wingless. It often moves in the soil at the base of residential walls. It is a Chinese medicinal material that is in short supply in the market. With the destruction of the natural environment and the increasing demand in the domestic and foreign markets, wild earthworms can no longer meet the market demand. The price in the Chinese medicinal material trading market in Bozhou, China has been rising year by year [2]. It is also called stinging insect (zhèchóng), commonly known as earth beetle. The dried body of the female insect of the family Eupolyphagasinensis Walker or Steleophaga plancyi. After being caught, it is scalded to death in boiling water and then dried in the sun or in an oven.

Earthworm breeding technology

Overview: The earthworm is a wild insect. In the past, it was captured as a source of medicine. In recent years, due to the renovation of old houses, the wooden floors of oil houses and granaries have been replaced with asphalt and cement floors, and the elimination of the four pests and sanitation have been included in daily work, which has made the earthworm lose its natural breeding place. Therefore, simply catching naturally grown insects is far from meeting the needs of domestic medicinal use and export. In order to expand the source of medicine, many places in the country have carried out artificial breeding, and achieved remarkable results. Artificially bred earthworms can reproduce in large quantities. Xinhua Agricultural Practice, which has been breeding earthworms for many years, has proved that artificial breeding of earthworms is a sideline project with low cost, high benefits, convenient management, simple equipment, wide range of food, strong reproductive capacity, wide adaptability, and no competition with grain and cotton for land, and different crops for fertilizer. It is beneficial to the country and oneself. It can be raised by collectives, families and individuals, and has great development prospects. Breeding environment: The artificially bred earthworms are mainly Chinese earthworms (Bupo1yphagasinensisWalker), which are mainly used for medicinal purposes and are distributed throughout the country. Artificial breeding of earthworms should be adapted to local conditions and make do with what is available. Depending on the scale of breeding, there are no restrictions on size and a variety of forms. Breeding can be done in tanks, pits (ponds), pots, cabinets, boxes, etc. The earthworm is an incomplete metamorphosis insect. It has to go through three stages: egg, nymph, and adult to complete a generation. The wild earthworm takes about one and a half to two and a half years. In southern China, when the temperature rises above 10℃ in early and mid-April each year, it begins to emerge from the ground and move until mid-to-late November when the temperature drops below 10℃, and gradually burrows into the ground to stop moving and hibernate. Except for male adults, all other insect stages can hibernate. The egg-laying period of female insects is from early May to mid-November, with June to September as the peak period of egg-laying, and hatching begins in late June and early to mid-July. All eggs laid before mid-August can be hatched in mid-November of the same year, and eggs laid from late August to before hibernation will not begin to hatch until late June or early July of the following year. The growth and development period of male nymphs is about 280 to 320 days, and that of female nymphs is about 500 days. The growth and development, egg-laying and reproduction speed of the earthworm are closely related to temperature, humidity, food, etc. The suitable temperature for its activities is between 15 and 35 degrees Celsius, and the most suitable temperature is 25 to 35 degrees Celsius. If it is lower than 0 degrees Celsius or higher than 38 degrees Celsius, it will cause a large number of deaths of adults and nymphs. The suitable relative humidity is 50 to 80%. Physiological activities Female insects can lay eggs one after another after mating once. Although they can lay eggs without mating, they cannot hatch. Female insects lay eggs about 7 days after mating, and then lay eggs every 4 to 6 days. A female insect can lay 30 to 40 eggs in its lifetime. When the temperature is 26 degrees Celsius, the eggs need to hatch after two months, and when the temperature is 30 to 35 degrees Celsius, they can hatch in about one month. The newly hatched nymphs are white and look like stink bugs. They shed their skin for the first time after 8 to 12 days. When they shed their skin, they do not eat or move and are in a state of suspended animation. After 1 to 2 days, they resume activities and shed their skin every 25 days or so. Generally, males shed their skin 7 to 9 times in their lifetime, and females shed their skin 9 to 11 times in their lifetime. They grow into adults. The earthworm lives in damp and loose soil. They are afraid of sunlight. They are often found in the loose soil of sweet potato cellars, kilns, stoves, warehouses and walls that are moist, warm and rich in humus, and in the pine trees near firewood piles, pig pens, cow sheds and stables. They hide in the soil during the day and come out at night to move, forage or mate. The difference between male and female worms is that the second and third arcs of the three horizontal lines on the back of the chest are crescent-shaped, the arc angle is about 700 for female worms, and the arc angle is about 400 for male worms; there are 4 horizontal lines on the abdomen for female worms, and 6 for male worms; there is a horizontal line connecting the tail filaments at the end of the abdomen for male worms, and the horizontal line is farther from the tail filaments for female worms; when crawling, the six legs of male worms are erected, with a higher posture, while the six legs of female worms are lying on the ground, with a lower posture. During the breeding process, it is necessary to identify male and female nymphs based on the above characteristics to facilitate the matching, mating and killing of male and female adults. The capture method is to capture wild ones and introduce species from other breeders. 1) Artificial capture: At night, gently remove the accumulation of the habitat of the earthworm or slowly dig up the loose soil where it often hides. When the earthworm is found, it can be captured by hand or in a wide-mouthed bottle. If there is an egg case, it should also be collected together. 2) Bait trapping: Put fried fragrant rice bran or bean cake crumbs in a large-mouthed earthenware jar or other plain container as bait, bury the jar in a place where earthworms often appear, and the mouth of the jar should be level with the ground. You can put a few straws or wheat straws on it. When the earthworms come out to feed in the evening, they smell the fragrance and crawl into the jar and cannot crawl out. Then you can take out the jar and capture the insects. Introduction method Earthworm breeding is part of the breeding industry. Like other breeding and planting industries, certain principles must be followed to ensure the success of earthworm breeding and minimize economic losses. Referring to the experience of Hunan Yinong's large-scale hybrid earthworm breeding base, earthworm breeding should follow the following principles: 1. Regional principle The more advanced earthworm breeding is the three-dimensional constant temperature breeding method. This method has high economic benefits for breeding earthworms, but this is for large-scale breeders who are breeding. For customers who are just starting to prepare to breed earthworms, there is no earthworm or the earthworms are very small, so there is no three-dimensional constant temperature breeding. Therefore, it is worth paying attention when introducing species. When introducing species from the north to the south, due to the low temperature in the north, earthworms and earthworm seeds stay in the greenhouse for a long time, while the temperature in the south rises. The earthworms introduced from the north stay in the natural environment in the south longer than in the north, which requires an adaptation process, just like a plant grows well in a greenhouse, and it takes a period of adaptation to grow in the natural environment. Therefore, when introducing earthworms from the north to the south, the regional span cannot be too large, and it can generally be divided into four regions: south of the Yangtze River, north of the Yangtze River to south of the Yellow River, north of the Yellow River, and West China. The earthworms in the south grow in the natural environment for a much longer time than those in the north, and they are more adaptable. Therefore, there is no regionality when introducing species from the south to the north, just like plants can grow well when they are transplanted from the natural environment to the greenhouse. 2. Market principle When introducing earthworms, the price and quality in the market are quite different. Some earthworm beginners actively introduce earthworms when they see that the price of earthworm seeds is low, thinking that this can not only breed more earthworms but also save a sum of money, but it should be noted that seed quality is the key. Some breeders believe that seeds with high seed prices and high recycling prices are good seeds, but we must pay attention to market principles. The market price of earthworms is more accurate when inquiring in the medicinal material market. Why are some recycling prices much higher than the market? This question deserves the attention of beginners. Therefore, when introducing earthworms, on the premise of following the two principles of region and market, you also need to find a down-to-earth large-scale earthworm breeder to introduce the species, which is the key to your successful breeding. Breeding method To change the earthworm from wild to artificial breeding, you need to arrange a set of breeding equipment and management techniques that are compatible with its biological characteristics to keep the insects alive and well. At the same time, through breeding practice, continuous improvement can be made to gradually achieve stable and high yields of artificially bred earthworms. The equipment needed to raise earthworms should be adapted to local conditions and be simple. Different equipment is set up according to the number of insects to be raised and the conditions available. Some are specially built to make pits, some use empty houses and corners of walls to make pools (pits), and some are raised in tanks or cabinets. The size is not limited and the forms are various. In general, it can be divided into four types. 1) Breeding tank: It is a kind of breeding equipment for small-scale breeding of earthworms. It is an ordinary tank commonly used in households. It can be large or small. Cracked tanks can be used as long as they are repaired with lime or cement. The inner wall of the tank should be smooth to prevent earthworms from crawling out. Generally, a tank with a diameter of 60cm and a height of 45cm is preferred. For the first breeding, due to the small number of them, it is generally suitable to breed them in tanks. 2) Breeding pit (pond): It is generally built in the corner of the wall inside the house and does not occupy the main site. The pit can be large or small, one square foot, two square feet, or three square feet. The longer one is 10 to 15 feet or longer, and the width is 2 feet. The pit is divided into grids. Regardless of the size of the pit, the depth is about 0.8 feet. The bottom of the pit should be rammed and compacted. The surroundings of the pit are built with bricks, 1 foot above the ground, and the total height is 1.8 feet. The inside and outside of the pit are brushed with lime or cement. It is required to be flat and smooth, and the pit surface should be covered. 3) Underground tunnel: Underground tunnel is a way to solve the problem of breeding site. That is, use the underground of the house to dig a 0.8-foot-deep tunnel. The bottom of the pit should also be tamped and solid. The surrounding area should be built with bricks. The inner wall should be smooth. The length can be determined according to the needs or the size of the house, and the width can be determined according to the width of the installed cover. Every other fixed cover, a movable floor with a width of about 1 foot is made for feeding and inspection. The underground tunnel can also be divided into compartments for breeding. Take away the movable board before going to bed every night to let the beetles enter and exit freely. Such an underground tunnel can still be walked on during the day. In order to prevent rats, ants and other enemies, the large and small holes in the door seams around the house should be tightly blocked. 4) Feeding cabinet: Like a multi-layer rabbit cage, it is a three-dimensional multi-layer (2 to 6 layers, etc.) shape like a cabinet, so it is called a feeding cabinet. This is the best way to make full use of the indoor space area, carry out large-scale breeding, and solve the problem of breeding site. Build a multi-layered feeding cabinet near the wall indoors. Except for one side near the wall, the other three sides or the bottom of each layer can be built into a rectangle with thin cement boards or bricks. The plane area is 3 to 10 square feet. It can be built into 4 to 8 layers, and each layer is 6 to 8 inches high. Each layer can also be divided into several small grids, and each grid should have a movable door for feeding and ventilation. Feeding practice has proved that the average temperature of the multi-layered feeding cabinet is higher than that of the feeding pit, so the food intake of the earthworm is significantly increased, and the growth and development are also significantly accelerated. Therefore, the multi-layered feeding cabinet can greatly shorten the time required for the earthworm to complete a generation from egg to nymph to adult compared with the general pit-raised earthworm, and the annual output is also significantly increased. 5) Bee-turtle joint feeding device: In the process of raising earthworms, if the appropriate temperature and humidity can be controlled, the reproduction can be accelerated and the yield can be increased. Therefore, according to the requirement that the optimum temperature for the breeding of earthworms is 25-35℃ and the relative humidity is 70%, the favorable conditions of normal temperature (34-35℃) and relative humidity of about 80% in the beehive can be used to prepare a turtle-raising device and carry out joint breeding in the beehive. There are bottle-type incubators, frame-type feeders, and relay-type feeders. Bottle-type incubator: use a wide-mouth bottle with a height of 23cm and a bottle mouth diameter of 16cm (the size is based on the size that can be placed in the beehive), and pierce some air holes on the bottle cap. It is mainly used for egg sheath hatching. A layer of loose soil with appropriate humidity is placed at the bottom of the bottle. The unhatched egg sheaths picked out from the breeding pool are placed in the bottle and mixed with the loose soil. A small amount of feed is added to the soil surface. Check once a week to observe the hatching situation, take out the hatched nymphs, and place them in a separate feeder for breeding. Frame-type feeder: made of thin wooden boards, the shape is the same as the frame-type feeder for raising bees. Generally, it is 24cm high, 48cm long and 16cm wide. In order to prevent the earthworms from crawling out, a metal mesh cover can be added. It is mainly used for female turtles to lay eggs. Take the female turtles out of the breeding pond together with the breeding soil, put them into the breeding device, and add appropriate amount of feed. The breeding device should be separated from the beehive by a partition. Check it twice a week to observe the egg-laying situation, and add feed and water to promote the female turtles to lay eggs. Super box type breeding device: It can be made from the super box of beekeeping, which is 46.5cm long, 38cm wide and 58cm high. It can also be used as a nest box. A thin wooden board should be nailed to the bottom of the super box (it is best to use a metal plate that is easy to transfer heat and then lay a layer of bamboo curtain). It is mainly used to raise nymphs, and can also raise female turtles and egg sheaths. The super box has a large capacity and is easy to manage. It can be raised on a large scale, but it must be used when the beehive is full and the first honey flow period in early spring, after the outside temperature rises. For large-scale breeding, the super box can be increased to expand the capacity. The practice of joint rearing of bees and turtles has proved that there must be at least 5 frames of bees in the beehive to achieve the purpose of joint rearing and temperature increase. In this way, the reproductive period of the earthworm can be shortened, that is, the completion of a generation can be shortened from the original three years to about two years, and the egg-laying period can be advanced from the original May and June to March and April. The survival rate is significantly improved, the reproduction rate is much higher than that in the natural environment, and the development speed is greatly accelerated, and there is no adverse effect on the reproduction and production of bees. 6) Rearing soil: The quality of the rearing soil directly affects the adult of the earthworm, and is also closely related to its growth and development. If the rearing is not suitable, it can also make the insect sick or attract mites and other enemies. Therefore, in choosing which type of soil for rearing, what season to take it, how much the soil temperature is maintained, etc., are all basic conditions that must be considered. Generally, it is best to choose moist, soft, fertile soil with more humus as the rearing soil, such as garden soil, etc. This kind of soil is convenient for the earthworm to drill into the soil and drill out of the soil surface for feeding activities. Different places can also choose according to the specific local soil conditions. Some provinces such as Shandong and Jiangsu use sandy soil or yellow clay as breeding soil. Strongly sticky soil is easy to clump, which reduces the range of the earthworm. At the same time, it will stick to the insect body, affecting crawling and development, so it is not suitable for use. It is generally better to take soil in winter, when there are fewer diseases, insects, and bacteria in the soil, which can reduce the damage to the earthworm. When taking soil, you can first turn over and break the soil layer, expose it to the sun for disinfection, and then use a sieve with a mesh size of 0.08×0.08 inches to sieve out soil clods and debris. The humidity of the breeding soil is generally 15-20% The water content in the soil is more suitable, and it is not suitable to be squeezed into a ball by hand. At the same time, the humidity of the soil should also be different according to the different solar terms, insect types, and equipment. Generally, it is slightly dry in winter and the rainy season, slightly damp in summer and autumn, slightly dry for small insects, slightly damp for large insects, slightly dry for breeding pits, slightly damp for the upper compartments of breeding tanks and breeding cabinets, and slightly dry for the mud used to store egg sheaths. When the breeding soil is found to be too wet or too dry, it is important to find out the cause and adjust it in time. When it is too dry, a small amount of water can be sprayed in the breeding soil or some green fodder can be added. When it is too wet, a window can be opened for ventilation to dissipate moisture or some green fodder can be reduced. These are all effective measures to adjust the humidity of the breeding soil. The thickness of the breeding soil is closely related to the age of the insects and the number of insects. Insects above the 9th instar, including adults, can drill to a depth of 30 cm. Nymphs move at a depth of about 6 cm. If the number of insects is large, the thickness of the breeding soil should be correspondingly thicker, otherwise it should be slightly thinner. In order to make the breeding soil loose and fertile, an appropriate amount of rice husks, burnt ashes, sawdust or fermented horse and cow dung, as well as bean shells, river mud, etc. can also be added to the breeding soil. But be sure not to use sewer mud or soil that has been treated with ammonia, pesticides, or alkaline soil for feeding. 7) Feed: Since the earthworm is an omnivorous insect, its feed types are relatively large, which can be divided into three categories: Concentrated feed: mainly the leftovers from grain and oil processing. Such as wheat bran, rice bran, sesame cake, bean cake, cottonseed cake, and tofu dregs. Powder residue (dried), etc., can generally be fed raw, and are more edible after being fried with fragrance, but do not fry them until they are burnt. Green feed: mainly fruits, vegetables, leaves, grass roots, etc., such as the skin and pulp of cucumbers, winter melons, and pumpkins, fruit branches and peels of pears, persimmons, peaches, plums, oranges, etc., sweet potatoes, sesame, castor beans, peas, astragalus, cotton, green vegetables, cabbage, wild rice stems, lettuce, amaranth, cabbage leaves, and leaves of mulberry, poplar, willow, paulownia, figs, etc. can all be fed, but be careful to keep them fresh and clean. Animal feed: such as the leftovers of pigs, cattle, sheep, chickens, ducks, geese, rabbits, fish, etc. from canteens and homes, which are generally fed cooked food. The earthworm, like other insects, is a cold-blooded animal. Its growth, development, reproduction and other life activities are greatly affected by the external environment, especially temperature and humidity. In summer, the temperature is high, water evaporates easily, and the breeding soil is easy to dry. Once the temperature exceeds 35℃ or it is rainy, the temperature is high, and the humidity is high, special attention should be paid to cooling and ventilation. The windows should be opened in time to allow air circulation. If the breeding soil is dry, some water can be sprayed. In order to cool down, some ice cubes can be placed indoors if conditions permit, and more green fodder can be fed appropriately. Otherwise, the high temperature will cause a large number of earthworms to die. When the insects hibernate in winter, pay attention to heat preservation. The temperature cannot be lower than 0℃, otherwise the insects will freeze to death and the eggs will be frozen. The insulation method can be adapted to local conditions. For example, the doors and windows can be closed tightly, and it is best to hang straw curtains. The breeding pits and tanks should be covered (but there should be ventilation holes). Some wheat bran, grass clippings or about 20cm thick ash soil can be added to the surface of the breeding soil. How many insects can be raised in a unit area of ​​breeding soil is a practical problem that needs to be solved in production practice. The ground beetles like to live in groups in the soil, and the breeding density can generally be larger. However, under unfavorable environmental conditions, the ground beetles will kill each other or bite the egg sheaths, so the density should not be too large. Feeding should adopt appropriate feeding methods, feeding time and feeding quantity according to the age, season and development stage of the insects. The 1st to 4th instar nymphs are small and weak in activity. They generally look for food in the surface layer of the breeding soil. The method of scattering feeding can be adopted. Because the insects are mostly concentrated on the edge of the pit, more insects should be scattered around the pit and five fingers should be inserted into the soil for 2 to 3 cm to dig the soil several times to mix the feed into the surface layer of the soil. First-instar nymphs are not yet able to eat green feed, so green feed can be added after the second instar. Nymphs above the fifth instar all come out of the ground to look for food, so a layer of rice husk can be sprinkled on the surface of the breeding soil, and a few pieces of plastic cloth or wooden boards can be laid on the rice husk as a feeding board, and the fine feed can be sprinkled on it. In this way, the earthworm comes out to look for food, and there is no mud on the insect body when it passes through the rice husk, which can keep the feed clean and avoid waste. Every 3 to 4 days, brush the plastic cloth once, which is good for the insect body. In the months with low temperatures, you can feed once every other day. In the months with high temperatures, feed twice a day, feed green feed in the morning and feed fine feed in the evening, keep the food fresh, and do not feed moldy feed. Before and after molting, the insect's food intake decreases significantly, and it stops eating completely during molting. At this time, feed less fine feed or no feed, and resume normal feeding after a large number of insect skins appear on the surface of the breeding soil. The ground beetle will eat the egg sheath when it is hungry or in an unfavorable environment. To avoid this loss, the egg sheath should be taken out in time and placed in a hatching pool or hatching tank for hatching. In the south, the first egg can be taken in early May every year. The number of egg taking should not be too many, otherwise it will be detrimental to the development of the seed worm. On the contrary, the interval should not be too long. First, as time goes by, the egg sheaths eaten increase. Second, when the temperature rises to 30-35℃, the egg sheath can hatch in about 30 days, so the time should not exceed 1 month. Among the raised ground beetles, males generally account for about 30% of the total. Experiments show that among female adults, it is enough to keep 5% of the strong males to meet the needs of mating. Therefore, emasculation measures should be taken, that is, when the nymphs develop to 7-8 years old, the excessive males can be removed and processed into medicine. When raising ground beetles in groups, under general breeding conditions, the development degree of nymphs hatched at the same time to the adult stage will be very different. In order to make the insects develop normally and avoid unevenness, they can be raised in different grades when they reach a certain stage. According to the age of the insects, they can be divided into ① 1-6 instar nymphs; ② 7-8 instar nymphs; ③ 9-10 instar nymphs; ④ adults. They can also be divided according to the size of the insects: ① sesame type, which refers to nymphs that develop for 1 to 2 months and are as small as sesame seeds; ② soybean type, which refers to nymphs that are 3 to 4 months old and are as big as soybeans; ③ broad bean type, which refers to nymphs that are 5 to 6 months old and are as big as broad beans; ④ thumb type, that is, adults, are as big as thumbs. Different breeding pits are set up according to different types (or ages). After this classification, the insect batches are clearer and develop more neatly, which is convenient for breeding and management. In order to shorten the breeding period of Scolopendra subspinipes and increase the yield, some people have explored the use of molting hormone or juvenile hormone, and have achieved initial results. For Scolopendra subspinipes with a body length of 1.5 to 2.0 cm, an average of 1 μg of molting hormone per gram was fed, and the maturation period of male worms was shortened by 12.5% ​​and 19% respectively; if the above two hormones are used as ripening agents for nymphs above the 4th instar, a generation can be completed in 14 months. The application of hormones is still in the exploratory stage. How to correctly grasp the dosage and timing of hormones, whether hormones remain in the body of the worms, and whether there are adverse effects on patients taking the medicine, further research is needed. In some places, in winter, the use of indoor heating to stop the dormancy of Scolopendra subspinipes can also promote its growth and development, but some reflect that its physique is weaker than that after normal dormancy and is more susceptible to diseases. In short, there are many issues that need further research and discussion in the process of artificially raising Scolopendra subspinipes. The range of activities of the earthworm is not large, but there are many kinds of natural enemies, such as rats, ants, cockroaches, chickens, ducks, toads, frogs, flour mites, spiders, woodlice, etc. Among them, rats are the most harmful, followed by chickens, ducks, ants and flour mites. Prevention and control must be paid attention to during the breeding process. Rats can climb high and dig holes, and they can get into any hole. It not only eats earthworms on the soil surface, but also eats insects and a large number of egg cases within a foot depth. In winter, when other food is relatively scarce, it will also dig holes into the pit to find food. In order to prevent and control rodents, when building a pond for the breeding of earthworms, the bottom of the pond should be compacted with three-cement soil, the ground should be covered, and it should be checked frequently. Especially at night, if rats and rat holes are found, they should be caught and blocked in time, or they can be killed with rat-catching tools. Ants can climb high and dig holes. As long as there is a small hole, it can crawl into the pit to cause harm; the earthworm itself has a very strong fishy smell, and the smell of dead insects is even stronger. There are often dead male insects in the pit or after feeding animal food, which are easy to be harmed by ants; when the ground beetle has just shed its skin and turned into a white and tender nymph, it crawls slowly. If this nymph is discovered by ants, thousands of sesame-shaped nymphs in a hatching tank will all be dragged away within a few hours. Ants not only invade the ground beetle but also compete with it for food. To prevent ants from drilling into the pond, some 6% wettable hexachlorocyclohexane powder or 5% chlordane powder and other pesticides can be sprinkled around the pond (tank). If ants are found in the pit, they should be eliminated immediately. Meat residues can be used as bait to lure and kill them or they can be killed manually. If an ant nest has been built in the pit, it will be more troublesome, so it must be eliminated as soon as possible. Mites are important natural enemies of the earthworm. They are easy to occur in rice bran and wheat bran in summer and autumn, which will cause the feed to mold and deteriorate. The mites in the earthworm breeding tanks and pits are generally introduced by rice bran and other food, or they may be spread by the breeding soil that is not disinfected or not disinfected strictly. Mites reproduce quickly and in large numbers, which is very harmful to the earthworm. Generally, mites parasitize on the back, abdomen, and leg roots of the earthworm, hindering the growth and development of the earthworm, making the insect body gradually weak, reducing the reproduction rate and often causing large-scale deaths. Polluting food and the environment causes the earthworm to become weak, sick and die. The principle of prevention is more important than treatment for the prevention and control of mite damage. Pay attention to checking the feed, and do not bring mites into the pond with the feed. Bran and bran can be fried before being used as feed. Feed in a quantitative manner and remove the remaining feed residues in time. The corpses of the earthworm and the empty shells of the egg sheaths are places or parasites for mites to breed, and strictly control the temperature and humidity in summer and the rainy season to eliminate mite damage. Carefully check the breeding soil, and be careful not to bring mites into the pond with the breeding soil. Sunbathe the breeding soil and disinfect it before use. If mites have been found to have invaded the breeding pond, you can take advantage of the habit of the earthworm to hide during the day and come out at night. Put some fried wheat bran, bean powder and other things on the food board during the day to lure mites. Take out the food board in the evening and treat it. After a few days of continuous luring, the damage can be reduced. When the damage of mites is serious, the breeding soil should be completely replaced. Sieve the earthworms and pour them into dry fine sand and let them crawl for half an hour to wipe off the mites parasitic on the insect body. At the same time, roast the pit wall with fire once, so that the mite damage can be more thoroughly eliminated. Spiders have a strong reproductive capacity. If they are not eliminated in time, spider webs will be seen everywhere in the corners of the breeding room. These spider webs are very harmful to the earthworms, especially to the winged male adults, who are often stuck in the spider webs and eaten by spiders, which also hinders management operations. Spiders can be swept down and stepped on to death by manual cleaning. In addition, 25% chlordimeform solution can be sprayed at 300 times the concentration. Spraying twice a month can basically eliminate all spiders. Spraying should be done in the morning. All leftover food should be removed before spraying. However, spraying on the insect body will not affect the earthworm. Earthworms generally do not have serious diseases, but they are easily infected with mildew if they are poorly managed or in the rainy season when the temperature is high, the humidity is high, and the insect population density is high. In severe cases, a large number of deaths can be caused. When infected with mildew, the insect body surface is dull, the abdomen is dark green, the movement is sluggish, the body is thin and shriveled, and it does not come out to forage at night. Sometimes it crawls out of the pond and dies during the day, and some die in the soil. The cause of the disease is not very clear, and some people believe that it is caused by fungal infection. When raising earthworms, we must always do a good job of preventing diseases. When the temperature and humidity are too high, we must ventilate to cool down and remove moisture, keep the feed fresh, regularly remove feed residues, insect shells and other objects, keep the pool clean, and add a small amount of yeast tablets, oxytetracycline powder and other feed to the insects, which can help digestion and promote the healthy growth of earthworms to enhance their ability to resist diseases. In addition to the above diseases, sometimes the insect body has a swollen and shiny abdomen; green-yellow color, loose feces and other symptoms, some people call it big belly disease, sometimes the insect body is wet and sticky with mud, the edge of the abdomen is black, and the feces are watery and sauce-colored. These all endanger the normal growth and development of earthworms. The cause is still unclear, but it is generally believed that it is due to inappropriate feeding, too dense insect population, inappropriate temperature and humidity, and may also be caused by the invasion of pathogens. These are not very clear, and need to be further studied and solved in future breeding practices. Attached earthworm pictures:

Earthworm

Earthworm

Earthworm

Earthworm

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