CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How to keep Chinese earthworms

1. The reproductive growth process of earthworms The reproductive growth of earthworms can be divided into three stages: (1) Egg hatching

(2) The larvae grow for about 6 months and then become adults.

(3) The egg-laying period of adults is one and a half years, with the peak egg-laying period being 6 to 7 months.

2. The living habits of earthworms (1) They hide during the day and come out at night. They are afraid of light and prefer dark and humid places.

They live in loose, fertile and moist soil and come out to look for food after dusk. (2) Earthworms have the ability to feign death: ① When they encounter an enemy

②It grows by shedding its skin, and each time it sheds its skin, its weight and volume

At the same time, it doubles its length and becomes one year old. It sheds its skin every 15 to 18 days, and it also appears to be in a state of suspended animation when shedding its skin.

3) Earthworms are perennial, thermophilic insects with a docile and lazy temperament, adaptable to a wide range of environments, and a relatively high reproduction rate.

When the temperature is high, the annual reproduction of larvae is about 1,300. It is very resistant to starvation and can survive without eating anything for half a month.

Its physical condition is not affected in any way and it is a hibernating insect. (4) It has a wide range of feed, including various vegetable leaves, various

Plant leaves, fruit peels, melon pulp, various non-toxic grasses, various grain and oil scraps are all Tuyuan

Good food, earthworms also like animal feed. Artificial feeding once a day at night, dry feed with water

Mix it and feed it like chickens. The daily food intake of 50 kg earthworms is about 1 kg. The above feed is fed in combination.

They can be fed alone. III. Equipment for feeding earthworms. (1) Insect screen: It is used to separate the earthworms of different ages.

The insects, adults and egg cases are separated by sieving within a certain period of time, and then the medicinal insects are raised and separated.

There are 5 sizes of sieve holes: 2-hole sieve: used to separate adult worms. 4-hole sieve: used to separate 7-

6-hole sieve: used to separate egg sheaths and excrement, 12-hole sieve: used to separate 1-2

17-hole sieve: used to separate first-instar nymphs and remove parasitic natural enemies such as powdery mildew.

(2) Feeding Pond: A type of feeding pit that is used to feed livestock in old houses or temporarily unused livestock ponds with roofs and walls.

Sheds and toilets, etc., dig a pit about 67 cm deep, 70 to 100 cm wide, and of unlimited length (can be

It depends on the amount of breeding and the actual situation in the house. Level the bottom of the pit and tamp it, and lay cement around it.

If a 3 to 7 cm wide glass strip is pasted on the pit wall at the pit mouth to prevent the escape of the earthworm,

The pit should be divided into several small compartments with thin cement boards or glass, and the size of each small compartment should be standardized.

In order to calculate the amount of nymphs of different ages to be raised and the yield per unit area.

The soil for breeding is 20 to 27 cm thick, and a tight wooden cover is added around the pit mouth, with ventilation holes inlaid with window screens.

The holes are divided into two groups, and adults or nymphs of different ages are placed in each group. Separate compartments are convenient for management and feeding.

Most of the breeding pits extend below the ground surface. The temperature in the pits is higher than the ground surface in winter and lower than the ground surface in summer.

, which can reduce the impact of seasonal changes on the earthworm, facilitate its growth and development, and increase its survival rate

The structure of the semi-underground breeding pool is similar to that of the standard breeding pit, except that half of the pool is buried underground.

The other half is above the ground, and the pool is no longer divided into sections. The pool is 2 meters long and 1.5 meters wide.

There should be a double-layer window screen door outside the hole for easy management and operation. The semi-underground breeding pool is suitable for feeding adult insects.

, to reproduce in large quantities and obtain insect medicinal materials. 4. Preparation of breeding soil.

It is a sexual insect that burrows into the soil during the day and likes to forage in the soil or on the soil surface. Therefore, the quality of the soil and

The combination of substances contained in the soil is directly related to the survival and growth of the earthworm. (1) Soil quality and water content

Quantity: The requirements for selecting breeding soil in various places should be adjusted according to their physical conditions, such as garden soil

, garbage soil, ditch mud, stove foot soil, sand and clay mixed soil, and add appropriate amount (20% to 30%) of fermentation

Chicken manure, pig manure, horse manure, burnt mud ash or rice husk ash. No matter which kind of soil is used, it should be of good quality after mixing.

The soil is loose, rich in nutrients, with moderate dryness and humidity. It can be squeezed into a perfect ball, and it will fall apart if you let go.

The amount should be 15% to 20%. Such soil is easy for the earthworm to hide, drill in or crawl out, and move freely.

(2) Preparation of feeding soil: Before placing the feeding soil in the pit or pond,

After being exposed to the sun, sterilized, and driven out of insects, the plants are sieved to remove impurities, bricks, and stones.

All factors in life should be eliminated as much as possible in advance. The thickness of the soil in the pond should be adjusted according to different

There are differences in insect age or adult stage, and the thickness of soil in different densities and seasons in the same pond should also be different.

Experience shows that the thickness of the soil for 1st to 4th instar nymphs should be 7 to 10 cm; for 5th to 8th instar nymphs, 16

～20 cm; 9-11 instar worms and adults should be 20-26 cm.

, the soil should be thicker, and the soil should be shallower if the density is small; the soil should be thinner in summer and thicker in winter;

The soil layer should be thicker than that for raising medicinal insects, so that the mating and egg-laying process are less disturbed.

Selection and feeding of feed: The Chinese beetle is an omnivorous insect.

Whether the feed is properly selected and matched is directly related to the success of breeding and the size of the harvest.

Feed types: Generally, there are three types of feeds. Plant feeds: including wheat bran, rice bran,

Bran, cake meal, powder residue, broken rice, corn and other grain powder. After being fried until fragrant, spread it out and let it cool.

Animal feed: The leftovers of pigs, cattle, chickens, ducks, fish, etc. in restaurants can be used as

Feed is for them to eat, but it cannot be rotten or spoiled, so as to prevent the beetle from getting sick and dying.

Small insects such as earthworms, crickets, locusts, moths, etc.

After being killed, they can be directly put into the food. Earthworms, maggots and mealworms can also be artificially cultivated to feed

Green fodder: It is a must-have food for raising ground beetles. Green leaves, cabbage, lettuce

Lettuce, amaranth, sesame, broad bean, peanut, sweet potato and other leaves, pumpkin, loofah flowers and fruits, all

Can be fed. Melon and fruit peels and sweet potatoes should be cut into pieces for feeding. The green fodder fed should be kept fresh and clean.

Be extra careful not to pick green fodder that has been sprayed with pesticides to prevent poisoning and death of ground beetles.

Feeding: In the hot summer and autumn season, add green fodder 1 to 2 times a day, put it in the morning, and keep

Fresh is better. The number of feedings and the amount of feeding per day should be controlled. Feed once every other day in low temperature months and once every other day in high temperature months.

Feed 1-2 times a day in warm months. The amount of feeding should be adapted to the insect population density in the pit or pond.

After feeding, the remaining and insufficient feed should be observed. In principle, the concentrated feed should be eaten up and there should be enough green feed.

The insects should be fed well, but unnecessary waste and excess residue should be avoided to attract parasites and mites.

Feed less before and after molting, and do not feed if the fish stops eating during molting.

If there are many insect skins or a large number of individuals with lighter body colors, it means that most of the insects have shed their skins and are in urgent need of a large amount of skin.

Feed the cats regularly and resume normal feeding in time.

When insects emerge from the soil, some concentrated feed should be sprinkled for them to eat.

(1) Storage of eggs: Keep the eggs at a temperature below 15°C to 0°C. Place them in moist soil and turn them over every 3 to 4 days.

When the soil is dry, replace it with wet soil. The recommended period is 10 to 12 months. It does not affect the hatching rate. (2) Identification of eggs:

The quality of the eggs is directly related to the larval rate. There are two ways to distinguish the quality of the eggs: ① Look at the eggs on the surface

The seeds are bright brown-red, plump, and have clear serrations in the air holes. ② When you squeeze them open, they become a white paste.

There are two methods: one is that the surface is sticky with mud, the serrated air holes have white edges, and the surface is dark and moldy; the other is to pinch it open.

Blank, dry, black. (3) The conditions required for hatching eggs are: ① The temperature is between 28 and 32 degrees, low

28℃ affects the birth rate, and above 38℃, it will cause death. ② The humidity of the soil should be around 25%

③ Keep fresh air in the incubator and do not seal it.

Method: 1.5-2.5 kg of eggs plus 1.5-2.5 kg of loess containing 25% water, mix well, turn over 2-3 times a day.

3 times to facilitate the uniformity of temperature and humidity in the middle and lower parts and ventilation. Change the soil once every 3 days or so.

The temperature should be consistent with the humidity of the sieved soil, and the humidity of the original soil should be maintained.

Keep the eggs away from water to prevent the production of mites. When the soil is dry during the incubation period, replace it with wet soil. Do not spray water to prevent moldy eggs.

Keep the room temperature at 28-33℃ during the incubation period. Heating method: stove, heater, electric stove, etc.

Put it in a tank or box and add 8 cm of soil. Feed it once every night and make sure the little earthworms eat

It is better to eat until full without any leftovers. Feed with green concentrate to make it grow faster.

The suitable temperature required for different growth and development stages is: when the temperature rises above 9℃, hibernation is ended.

When the temperature drops below 10℃ in late autumn, they stop moving and enter hibernation.

When the temperature is kept at around 26°C, the egg stage is about 40 days. When the temperature is between 30 and 32°C, the egg stage is 30 days.

The activity temperature of nymphs and adults of all ages is between 15 and 35 degrees Celsius, and the most suitable temperature is between 25 and 30

If the temperature is too high, the food will become moldy and spoil, bacteria and parasitic mites will invade and multiply, and the insects will become sick and die.

When the required temperature is reached, a stove can be used to increase the indoor temperature, or a light bulb with appropriate wattage can be used to increase the temperature of the pit.

To keep the day and night activity patterns of the earthworm unchanged, black paint can be used to

Two different colors of light bulbs, white and white, are used alternately during the day and night. (2) Cooling: In summer, the temperature in the pit and pool

If the temperature exceeds the suitable temperature for the ground beetle, water can be sprinkled indoors to strengthen indoor and pit and pool watering.

Ventilate the area, install exhaust fans, or add basins and ice trays to pits and pools.

When dead insects are found, they should be screened out in time to remove old nymphs or some adults.

Later it was used as medicine to reduce the density of insects in pits and ponds and reduce the amount of feed. (3) Humidification: Feed

When the humidity in the breeding ground, pit or pool is lower than 40%, spraying or ground watering should be used to release

Place items with large evaporation surface after absorbing water, such as absorbent foam wipes, cotton fiber fabrics, soaked clothes

(4) Dehumidification: When the humidity in the pit or pool exceeds 85

%, timely measures should be taken to reduce humidity, such as opening doors and windows and exhaust fans to enhance ventilation.

If the humidity is too high and continues to rise, place calcium chloride wooden boxes and raw materials in the corners of the pit or pool.

Lime box to achieve the purpose of local dehumidification.