CATDOLL : CATDOLL: Why don't bees enter the hive? How to prevent wasps around the hive?

Why don't bees enter the beehive? How to prevent wasps from entering the beehive?

1. The beehive is stuffy: The weather temperature is too high or there are too many bees, which makes the beehive too hot and lacks oxygen. At this time, you need to enlarge the nest door to increase the ventilation and air permeability of the beehive, or expand the bee path and add a super. 2. Pests and diseases: The threat of paralysis, cystic brood disease, ants, nest insects, mites and other pests and diseases will cause the bees to not enter the nest. At this time, you need to open the box for inspection, and then take appropriate measures according to the specific situation.

1. Why do bees not enter the hive?

1. The beehive is stuffy

(1) The weather temperature is too high or there are too many bees in the bee colony, causing the beehive to be too hot and stuffy and lack of oxygen. The bees cannot adapt and therefore stay outside the hive.

(2) Solution: You can enlarge the hive door appropriately. If there is a bottom window, you can open the ventilation window to increase the ventilation and air permeability of the beehive. In addition, when the temperature is high, expand the bee path in time. If there are more than 6 beehives, add supers to ensure that the bees have enough living space.

2. Pests and diseases

Threats from pests and diseases such as paralysis, sac brood disease, ants, nest insects, and mites will cause bees to not enter the hive. At this time, it is necessary to open the box for inspection, and then take appropriate measures for prevention and control based on the specific situation.

3. Location of beehives

(1) The beehive is placed in an unreasonable location. Generally speaking, the beehive should be placed in a ventilated and cool place.

(2) There should not be any stagnant water or moisture in the beehive, and it should not be placed directly in the sun.

(3) At night, beehives cannot be placed in places with lights, otherwise the bees will fly around the light and die of exhaustion.

2. How to prevent wasps around beehives

1. Manual guard

Before wasps attack a bee colony on a large scale, scout bees will come to observe. Once the scout bees find that the resistance of the bee colony is not strong, they will lead the wasps in the same nest to invade the bee colony. Therefore, when breeders find wasps coming to scout, they need to kill them in time.

2. Install the baffle

Wasps are larger than bees, so a baffle can be installed above the hive door and adjusted to a level that allows bees to enter smoothly but wasps cannot. This can effectively prevent wasps from invading the beehive, but it has no effect on wasps that kill bees at the hive entrance.

3. Carrying traps

After catching the hornet, use tweezers to clamp it, then smear syrup mixed with highly toxic pesticides on its chest and abdomen, and let it escape back to the nest. The other hornets will be poisoned and die after sucking the poisonous syrup.

4. Destroy the beehive

After catching the hornet, tie a colored silk thread on its body and then let it fly away. Then follow the colored silk thread to find the beehive. When the beehive is found, destroy it.

New beekeepers must know: what are the signs of bees “dividing”?

After the honey bees' spleens are mounted on the queen cells, you should prepare the hives and observe them diligently. You can't wait long after one or two queen colonies are sealed. You can cut off the spleen and put it in another hive, but you must protect the queen band. The honey bees' spleens in each barrel are similar. Each barrel must have a healthy queen colony, and the colonies in the two barrels are basically the same. If possible, catch the queen bee and put it in the queen cage, so that the queen bee can't be caught and there is no imitation.

If there is a deviation in the army, the group with less army should be left in place, and the collecting bees should fly to the group with weak army, and the other groups should be moved 2 kilometers away. Observe the queen team in the bee group the next day, indicating that the queen team is in this beehive, and the group will resume normal production after one or two days. The other queen team should be observed to see if it is complete. On sunny days in early spring, the new king usually comes to power around 8 am. After the new king comes out, all other queen teams should be destroyed. Otherwise, they will be punished again.

After teaching the bees for 2 to 3 days, there will be a lot of wax at the bottom of the barrel, which needs to be cleaned in time to prevent the growth of cottonworms.

If it is a living box bee, it will be more reassuring. Catch the crown prince, put it in the king cage, and divide it equally between the two groups. Other methods are just like barrel bees.

I have been dividing bees this way and it works great! The weather this year has been especially bad and it has been raining a lot recently, so some bees can't even cover the males and no longer have the queens. I have two groups of bees and the weather was clear, and the queens ran away with some of the bees, and the remaining bees were very vicious and aggressive, and I couldn't see them anymore.

Regarding the issue of how to artificially separate bees, it has come to a critical moment for bee separation. If we do not implement artificial potting in a timely and effective manner, the bees are likely to split, causing trouble, and if they cannot be found, they will suffer losses. In fact, bees want to separate bees before they are separated, but now the technology is relatively mature, and it can be roughly divided into four types: one is equal division of eggs, the second is unequal division of eggs, the third is mixed pots, and the fourth is glue pots.

The average bee colony is usually divided after a large flow. When dividing the bees, first move the original bee colony to half of the hive position, then add the new hive to the original position, let the new hive be discharged side by side, and then divide the honey spleen and larvae spleen of the original bee colony into two hives, and only open the nest door on the edge. This method of bees is a method of dividing bees into bee colonies, and it is evenly distributed, so it is usually called a group of average bees.

For example, after we create a division in a bee colony, if there is already a natural queen group in the colony, the bees do not need to have a king group, and can directly divide the queen group into new bees.

First, the bees stop working, neither producing honey nor pollen. Second, the bees leave the hive in large numbers and hover around some big trees. There are more and more of them, and they fly away when the time is right. Third, separation is most likely to occur when two queen bees appear in the hive.

The breeding of drones in a bee colony is an early sign of natural swarming. The reason is that the queen bee must mate with drones before she can lay eggs normally. Since it takes drones nearly 20 days longer than the queen bee to grow from eggs to full sexual maturity, bee colonies with the intention of swarming will generally breed drones in advance. In other words, the appearance of a large number of drone cells in the bee colony may be a sign of natural swarming, but this is not absolute. For example, some bee colonies may stop swarming after building drone cells due to the loss of the intention to swarm.

During swarming, the bees' heads face outwards, and during test flights, the bees' heads face the hive. The precursors to swarming are the bee colony's slacking off, the bees hanging their beards in front of the nest door or in the open space inside the hive, the queen bee's body size obviously shrinking, and the queen cells of the colony turning black. If you know the time when the queen cells are capped, it is easy to calculate when the swarming will occur.