CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How to breed maggots?

How to breed maggots?

The following content is for reference only

Fly maggots are rich in protein and are one of the high-quality feeds for special economic animals such as poultry, livestock, fish, frogs, scorpions, etc. The development of fly maggot protein feed has attracted more and more attention. Here we briefly introduce some technical issues of breeding.

1. Choose the species of flies. Common fly species in China are roughly divided into: house flies, stable flies, less-haired toilet flies, and ochre-tailed flesh flies. Farmers can choose house flies (also known as house flies), which have the characteristics of strong reproductive ability, high larval production, large body, miscellaneous diet, and strong adaptability. If the breeding site is close to a reservoir and there are rotten fish as feed, Lucilia sericata can be cultivated. Its larvae are fat, high in protein content, and good breeding efficiency. Ochre-tailed flesh flies (i.e., flesh flies) can create high yields and high benefits. As long as rotten meat and animal carcasses can be provided, they can be cultivated. Pay attention to eliminating stable flies and less-haired toilet flies during breeding.

2. Temperature is closely related to the growth rate of fly ecology. Controlling temperature is a key measure to increase the production of fly maggots, especially directly affecting the growth and maturity time, yield and protein quality of larvae.

When breeding fly maggots in a climate where the temperature is below 30 degrees all year round, it is best to build a simple greenhouse and breed them indoors. In spring and autumn, the room can be heated slightly to reach a suitable temperature for the breeding of fly maggots; in winter, fuel is consumed and costs are increased, so breeding is not suitable in too cold areas. If relative measures can be taken to increase the temperature, flies can also be bred in winter.

3. Humidity: Adults require an indoor temperature of 55%-6060, and larvae require a humidity of 65%-70% during their growth period. Pupae need a dry environment, and excessive temperatures can easily cause death.

4. Lighting: Adults like to move around in bright places. It is advisable to install 5-7 watt incandescent bulbs per square meter in the breeding room, and the light should be on for more than 10 hours a day. They need a dark place to lay eggs, and the egg-laying room should be dark. Larvae are afraid of light and like to burrow in the feed pile, so they don't need light.

5. Harmful gases Excessive levels of hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide and ammonia in the room will affect the activity and lifespan of adult insects. Generally, the ammonia content per cubic meter of air is required to be 0.02 mg, carbon dioxide 0.3 mg, and hydrogen sulfide 0.4 mg or less.

6. Bait

1. The humidity of the bait should be 65%-70% for adults and 65%-75% for larvae, that is, the bait should be able to form a ball when held in the hand, and water should just be visible between the fingers. If the humidity is below 50%, the flies will not lay eggs or the larvae will develop slowly. If the humidity is above 90%, only a few fly eggs will be laid.

2. The thickness of the bait should be 6-7 cm for the larvae, because after the larvae hatch, they will drill down from the surface of the bait to eat, and then return to the surface to pupate. If there is less bait, the larvae will not pupate or pupate prematurely; if the bait is too thick, it will clump and mold, causing the larvae to be unable to drill and die. After 3 days, remove the discolored bait and excrement on the upper layer, and then add fresh bait.

3. Nutrition of bait: The feed for larvae is mainly the excrement of poultry and livestock such as chickens and ducks. If adults are cultivated, the bait quality should be higher. Milk powder, maggot slurry and fish meal can be used. The feeding effect of maggot slurry is better than milk powder and fish meal.

7. Density: 50,000 to 80,000 flies can be raised per cubic meter in a fly cage. The number of flies to be raised should be determined according to the size of the individual, the quality of the ventilation equipment and the cooling measures. If the flies are too dense, the feeding area of ​​the adults will be insufficient, the air will not flow smoothly, the operation will be inconvenient, and they will easily escape, resulting in low yields. If the density is too small, the yield will be affected. In the larval feeding bowl, half a bowl of bait can generally raise more than 500 larvae.

8. Drinking water When more than 50 pupae have emerged as adults, water should be supplied. The water supply to the adults cannot be interrupted, otherwise a large number of them will die. To prevent the adults from falling into the water, a sponge or a piece of wood can be placed in the culture vessel containing water.

9. Fill the egg-laying tank with 2/3 bran containing 75% water, and drop 1/10000 aqueous ammonium carbonate into it to induce female flies to lay eggs in a concentrated manner. The egg-laying tank should be replaced once a day. Pour the taken eggs into the culture medium (bran\vinasse) with a water content of 65%-75%. The eggs should not be exposed, but should not be buried too deep to avoid affecting hatching.

10. Elimination of adults: Adults start to lay eggs and lay more than 50% of the eggs on the 4th day, and 80% of the eggs can be laid within the first 20 days. At this time, the adults can be killed and disinfected with boiling water to ensure stable production.

11. Disposal of discarded bait After changing bait or collecting pupae, the discarded bait must be disposed of in a centralized manner, because there are often a few larvae or pupae in it, which must be killed and disinfected by scalding with boiling water or fermentation.

How to cultivate fly maggots

1. Necessary conditions for maggot breeding

Natural conditions: Temperature is a necessary condition for maggot breeding. Below 20℃, flies stop breeding or enter hibernation, not eating or moving. Plastic sheds can only be used for seasonal breeding. In late autumn, severe winter, and early spring, the temperature is not high enough to meet the requirements, so breeding in the shed is futile.

Maggot feed: The feed for productive breeding of maggots must be cheap waste, preferably chicken manure produced by professional chicken farmers. Calculated based on 3 catties of chicken manure to produce 1 catties of maggots, productive breeding requires a lot of feed. If you buy soy sauce residue, tofu residue or other waste, the cost is too high and the result is often not worth the gain.

Self-consumption ability: It is best to be a professional poultry or fish farmer for productive fly maggot breeding, and be able to produce and consume maggots by yourself, so as to reduce the feed cost of poultry and fish and improve economic benefits.

2. Site selection for breeding sites

Fly maggot breeding is to a large extent unhygienic, so when choosing a breeding site, pay attention to the following points:

Stay away from residential areas: Chicken manure or other waste piled up in the yard will allow flies to enter the house and bite and crawl around, affecting human health.

Pay attention to the year-round wind direction: Pay attention to the local year-round dominant wind direction and set up the maggot breeding farm on the leeward side of the chicken farm to prevent the odor from drifting into the breeding room and several houses, affecting the healthy growth of breeders and chickens.

Keep away from water sources: Fly maggot farms must be far away from self-supplied water sources and public water sources to prevent sewage from seeping into the ground, causing water quality to deteriorate and affecting the water use of chickens.

Waste dumping site: In the productive breeding sites for fly maggots, there must be a dedicated area for the dumping of chicken manure and fly maggot breeding waste to prevent environmental pollution.

3. Construction of breeding rooms and sheds

The area of ​​the insulation room and shed is calculated as 1 square meter for every 1 kilogram of maggots produced. Rooms and sheds that are too large are not conducive to heat preservation, and too small cannot guarantee the output. This is a major problem in maggot farming, which involves investment issues. If funds permit, a cold-proof insulation room can be built for year-round farming; if funds are insufficient, seasonal greenhouse farming can be carried out. Simple outdoor farming is affected by temperature and rain. The farming time in the south is longer and that in the north is shorter. This method of farming can neither guarantee the output nor harm environmental hygiene, so it is not recommended. The following points should be paid attention to when constructing a shed for productive farming:

Cold protection and heat preservation: To ensure that the indoor temperature of the greenhouse is above 25℃, the indoor walls should be of a certain thickness, the doors and windows should be tight, and there should be heating and temperature control facilities indoors. The temperature of the plastic greenhouse is too high in summer, and it is difficult to reach 25℃ in cold seasons, so it is not suitable for breeding.

Rain and sun protection: Pay attention to rain protection when breeding in the shed to avoid damaging the breeding environment of fly maggots. In the midsummer season, pay attention to avoid direct sunlight to prevent the fly maggot feed from drying up and causing the maggots to die.

The specific structure, scale and shape of rooms and sheds can be adapted to local conditions and do not have to be forced to be consistent, as long as they are applicable.

4. Productive breeding management

The productive breeding management of fly maggots can be roughly divided into two parts: inducing flies to lay eggs and the growth of maggots.

Female flies have the instinct to hatch eggs safely, so they lay eggs in a quiet or sheltered place rich in nutrients. To understand this habit of female flies, you can use plastic square plates, cans and other containers, put nutrients (meat bones, leftover soup, fish offal, watermelon rinds, wheat bran, sugar solution and other waste) in them, and place them in a quiet place to lure flies to lay eggs. When the eggs hatch into maggots, you can move them into chicken manure to let them grow.

When feeding and managing fly maggots during their growth process, it is important to understand that after the maggots mature, they no longer need to be fed with feed, but begin to crawl outward into the soil to pupate, and the maggots should be collected or caught in a timely manner.

Fly maggot breeding can be divided into two types: dry and wet. Dry breeding is: spread chicken manure on plastic sheeting or cement floor, 80 cm wide, 10-15 cm high, and unlimited length. After the fly eggs or hatched larvae are moved on, water is sprinkled to maintain a certain humidity, and the eggs or larvae can hatch and grow. Wet breeding is: build a non-leaking pool with a depth of 30 cm, a width of 60-80 cm, and unlimited length in the room or shed, put water in the pool, put chicken manure in and stir it into a thick slurry, move the fly eggs in, and it can hatch into maggots and grow. Regardless of dry or wet breeding, when the fly maggots grow, the maggot manure should be cleaned in time and new chicken manure should be replaced regularly to increase production.

5. Processing and Storage of Maggots

The collected or fished fly maggots should be put into hot water to kill them in time, then fished out and dried in the sun (or oven), or directly mixed into corn powder feed and fed in time. Wet maggots mixed into corn flour should not be left for a long time to avoid mold and deterioration.

The daily output of fly maggots is large, and the moisture content can be controlled after drying, which is convenient for long-term storage. When processing fly maggots, rotten and deteriorated dead maggots should be picked out to avoid affecting the quality of maggot powder.