CATDOLL : CATDOLL: What is the best soil for raising red worms? Picture appreciation (What is the best soil for raising red worms? Picture appreciation video)

1. Can I keep the red worms I bought in the soil of a flowerpot?

Red worms cannot be raised in potting soil, because red worms are aquatic organisms, living in the mud at the bottom of the ditch. In the potting soil, the soil lacks water and is relatively dry, and lacks food nutrition, so the worms will die. Red worms are a favorite bait for anglers, and are usually raised in a bucket. You can also dig a hole in potatoes or radishes, put the red worms in the hole, seal it, and store it in the refrigerator for about a week. It is still fresh.

2. How to catch red worms?

Prepare the culture container: It should not be too small. Generally, a water tank with a diameter of half a meter is enough. You can also use a larger water basin. If you have a ready-made pond, it is also perfect. The water should not be too deep. Half a meter deep is considered deep. The water quality is better to be relatively turbid. As the saying goes, clear water means no fish or insects.

Light: Red worms have high requirements for light, so you can usually just put them in the sun. However, the sun is very strong now, and the water temperature is too high, so you need to add cold water or put them in a cool place.

Feed: What do fish worms eat? They mainly feed on organic matter in the water, such as flour solution and milk. I have raised fish worms and only added some soil. Don't feed them too much. As long as there is enough water, they will not starve to death. But if too much organic matter is added, the water quality will deteriorate. Therefore, it is better to starve them than to poison them to death.

Changing water: If the container is large, such as a small pond, you don't need to change the water. Just add water when the water evaporates too much. If your container is relatively small, you can't change the water too much. Another thing to pay attention to when changing water is not to pour out the fish and worms with the waste water. The author's method is to seal the mouth of the straw with a stocking and then suck out some of the water.

Feeding: When the fish worms grow to a large number, you need to take them out to feed the fish. The method of catching fish worms has been mentioned above. Now I want to emphasize that you should not catch too many fish worms at a time, otherwise your fish worms will grow slowly. Generally, do not catch more than two-thirds of the fish worms, just keep it at this amount.

Cleaning of fish worms: If you think that feeding the old fish worms directly to the fish may pollute the water in the fish tank, you can clean the fish worms first. The method is to put the fish worms in a stocking and then rinse them with tap water.

3. Will red nematodes burrow into the sand?

It will get into the sand and damage the water quality of the fish tank over time.

If there are a lot of bacteria in the red nematodes, the abdomen is prone to ulceration. The resistance of ornamental fish is too weak. The red nematode disease of ornamental fish is also called uterine nematode disease. Because the pathogen red nematode's body washes the intestines and is bright red, it is commonly known as red nematode. When ornamental fish are infected with red nematode disease, it will cause skin inflammation and congestion. The inflamed part of the fish body will be parasitic on Saprolegniasis, leading to secondary infection, so it must be treated in time.

1. Use quicklime and water to clean the pond to kill the larvae. Do not use tea cakes, because tea cakes not only cannot kill the larvae, but also prolong their lifespan.

2. Soak the fish body in 2% - 2.5% salt water for 15 - 20 minutes. This is the simplest and most effective method.

3. Apply 1% potassium permanganate or iodine to the affected area, but be careful to prevent the liquid from flowing into the fish gills.

4. Sprinkle 0.2-0.5 grams of crystal trichlorfon (90%) per cubic meter of water throughout the pond to kill the intermediate host.

4. What are the little red worms on the beach?

It is a red worm. Red worms are very small, about 100 mm long, but their population production is higher. The difference between the two is that the former has tail gills. The tail often emerges from the mud. It breathes with water and vibrates faster when lacking oxygen. The latter does not have tail gills.

Red nematodes like to live in mud in micro-mud water rich in organic matter. They usually lurk 10cm~25cm below the mud surface and go deep into the mud when the temperature is low.

Red nematodes prefer darkness and fear light. They cannot be exposed to sunlight and feed on soil, absorbing organic humus, bacteria, and algae.

5. How do red worms turn red after turning black?

Method 1: Before fishing, select an appropriate amount of fine earthworms from the breeding pond (box, barrel, etc.), put them into the earthworm box, do not put soil and bait for the time being, take an appropriate amount of edible red powder and add a little water to mix into a paste, and pour it into the earthworm box. The amount of red powder should not be too much or too little, just enough to dye the earthworms red. After a period of time, the earthworms crawl, intersperse, and wriggle with each other, and each earthworm will soon be dyed bright red. Later, take a small amount of culture soil or bait and put it in the earthworm box (the best bait is apples, pears, mature pumpkins, etc.), and then you can take it to the river to fish. If the cultured earthworms are fresh and fat, and have more water, there is no need to add water to mix red powder. You can sprinkle dry red powder directly on the earthworms, and wait until the earthworms are dyed red all over their bodies before you can hook and fish.

Method 2: Five or six days before fishing, pick out the small earthworms that are not too red from the earthworm pond, put them in a larger earthworm box, or other utensils, collect the leftover tea residue and put it in the earthworm box, without adding soil and other feed, and feed them for about five to seven days. The earthworms fed with tea residue are bright red and fragrant, and carp, grass carp, and bream love to eat them. They are the best choice for fishing large crucian carp.

6. How to raise red nematodes?

The red nematode is also known as silkworm, water earthworm, red silk worm, red nematode, and can also be called earthworm. In the north, it is called thread snake.

Species: Annelida, Oligochaeta, Oligochaeta, Tremblingidae, Lumbricata.

Artificial breeding technology of water earthworms:

1. Establish culture medium.

The raw materials of the culture medium can be selected from three types of materials: organic sludge such as fish pond sludge, paddy field fertile mud, black mud beside sewage ditches, loosening agents such as bagasse, and organic manure such as cow dung and chicken dung. First, lay a layer of bagasse or other loosening agents on the bottom of the pool, with a dosage of 2 to 3 kilograms per square meter. Then spread a layer of sludge to make the total thickness reach 10 to 12 centimeters per square meter, add water to submerge the base surface, and apply cow, chicken, and pig manure after soaking for 2 to 3 days, about 10 kilograms per square meter; before inoculation, apply a layer of sludge with a thickness of 3 to 5 centimeters on the surface, and at the same time apply a thin layer of fermented bran and rice bran, corn flour, etc. on the mud surface, and sprinkle 150 to 250 grams per square meter; finally, add water to make a 3 to 5 cm deep water layer on the culture surface. The culture medium of the newly built pool can generally be used continuously for 2 to 3 years, and then it should be renewed.

2. Introduction and inoculation.

In autumn every year, when the temperature drops to about 28℃, the water earthworms can be introduced into the pond. The water earthworms are abundant in sewage ditches in the suburbs of towns, livestock and poultry farms and slaughterhouses, sugar factories, and sewage ditches where waste is discharged by food factories. Seeds can be collected nearby. The inoculation work is relatively simple, that is, the collected earthworm seeds are evenly spread on the culture surface of the earthworm pond. It is appropriate to inoculate 500-750 grams per square meter of culture area.

3. Feed and feeding.

Water earthworms particularly like to eat sweet grain feeds. Livestock and poultry manure, domestic sewage, and waste from agricultural and sideline product processing are also high-quality feeds for them. However, the feed (especially manure) should be fully decomposed and fermented, otherwise they will ferment in the earthworm pond to produce high heat and "burn" the earthworms and young earthworms. Manure can be naturally decomposed in the pit as usual. Grain feeds should be fermented with water 16 to 20 hours before feeding. Mix the feed at room temperature above 20°C, add water and knead it into a ball by hand, and throw it away as soon as it falls apart. Then shovel it into a pile, pat it firmly, and cover it with plastic cloth. If the room temperature is below 20°C, yeast tablets need to be added to promote fermentation. The dosage is about 1 tablet for every 1 to 2 kilograms of dry feed. Mix the feed at 15 to 16 o'clock in the afternoon of the previous day, and it will be fermented and matured on the morning of the next day. When the plastic cloth is uncovered and there is a strong sweet wine aroma, it proves that the earthworms can be fed. Every 10 to 15 days after inoculation and before harvest, apply 200 to 250 kg of decomposed manure per 667 square meters; from the beginning of harvest, apply about 300 kg of manure after each harvest, and an appropriate amount of grain feed to promote the rapid growth of water earthworms. When feeding fertilizer, it should be diluted and stirred with water first, and the grass residue and other debris should be removed, and then evenly sprinkled on the surface of the culture medium. Do not spread it into lumps and accumulate in the earthworm pool. Don't forget to close the water inlet before feeding to prevent the feed from drifting and losing.

4. The beating pool and water pipes.

This is an absolutely indispensable link in feeding and management. The method is to use a "T"-shaped wooden rake to carefully beat the culture medium of the earthworm pond, and consciously beat the moss and weeds into the pond. The role of beating the pond is, first, to prevent the culture medium from hardening; second, to remove the harmful gases produced by the metabolic waste of water earthworms and the decomposition of feed (fertilizer); third, to effectively inhibit the growth of moss, duckweed, and weeds; fourth, to always keep the surface of the culture medium flat, which is conducive to the smooth flow of water. It is more appropriate to control the water depth at 3 to 5 cm. In the fine weather of early spring, the pool water can be shallower during the day to use solar energy to increase the pool temperature, and it can be appropriately deepened at night to keep warm and prevent freezing; during the high temperature period of midsummer, the pool water should be deeper to reduce sunlight radiation. It is best to build a frame over the earthworm pond in advance and plant vine crops for shade. Too much water flow will not only take away nutrients and bacteria on the culture surface, but also increase the physical energy consumption of the earthworms themselves, which is not conducive to increasing production. However, too small a flow rate or even a long period of static water is not conducive to the supply of dissolved oxygen and the removal of harmful substances such as metabolic waste, thus leading to deterioration of water quality and mass death of earthworms. Earthworms are very sensitive to harmful substances such as pesticides in water. Industrial wastewater, field water that has just been sprayed with pesticides, or medicated pond water used to treat fish diseases cannot be used.

5. Harvesting and purification.

Water earthworms have a strong reproductive capacity. A newly built earthworm pond will enter its peak reproductive period 30 days after inoculation, and it can continue to thrive. However, water earthworms do not have a long lifespan, generally only about 80 days, and a few can live up to 120 days. Therefore, timely harvesting of earthworms is also one of the key measures to achieve high yields. The harvesting method is to cut off the water or reduce the water flow the night before, causing hypoxia in the earthworm pond. The next morning, you can easily use a small scoop net made of polyethylene mesh to scoop out the earthworm mass in the water. The amount of earthworms harvested each time is based on the amount of "earthworm mass" on the culture surface that has been scooped out. This will neither affect the reproductive capacity of the group nor reduce the yield due to aging and death of earthworms due to untimely harvesting.

In order to purify water earthworms, a bucket of earthworms can be poured into a square filter cloth and washed in water to remove most of the mud and sand. Then pour it into a large basin and spread it flat to a thickness of no more than 10 cm. A piece of ribbed gauze is laid on the surface and flooded with water 1.5 to 2 cm deep. Cover the basin tightly with a lid. After about 2 hours of sealing (the airtight time should be shortened when the temperature exceeds 28°C, otherwise the water earthworms will be suffocated), the water earthworms will drill out of the gauze holes. Open the basin lid and lift the four corners of the gauze to get clean water earthworms that are completely separated from the dregs. This method can be repeated 1 to 2 times. Take out some more water earthworms from the dregs. The residue left at the bottom of the basin contains a large number of egg cocoons and a few earthworm bodies, which should be poured back into the breeding pond.

7. How to raise red worms?

1. Prepare a suitable container

Before breeding red worms, you need to prepare a suitable container. The size of the container can be determined based on the number of red worms to be bred, the size of the location where they are placed, and other factors. Generally, glass or plastic containers can be used, and they must be watertight and have a large area in contact with the air.

2. Provide good water quality

Red worms are afraid of pungent smells. If you use tap water for breeding, we all know that tap water contains chlorine, which will affect the growth of red worms. Therefore, before using tap water, you need to expose it to the sun for a few days to eliminate chlorine and impurities. In rural areas, clean and clear river water or stream water can be used. Change the water every other day to keep the water quality good.

3. Keep the environment moist

The environment for raising red worms must be kept moist, and the breeding container must be placed in a cool place, or covered with a piece of cloth soaked in water.

4. Provide lighting conditions

Light source is a necessary condition for raising red worms. Provide continuous light source to maintain the life activities of the red worms. Remember not to place them in a dark room.

5. Clean and feed frequently

In the process of breeding red worms, it is necessary to clean the feeding utensils in time, keep the red worms clean, and pick out the dead red worms in time, because the dead red worms emit a strong pungent smell. A small amount of domestic red worms can be fed directly with glucose, usually a few milliliters, and fed 2-3 times a week. For large-scale red worm breeding, rice bran, sawdust, banana peels, sugarcane bagasse, sludge, pigeon manure, etc. can be fermented and made into nutrients for their absorption.