CATDOLL : CATDOLL: What are the technical essentials of bee breeding and management? (What are the technical essentials of bee breeding and management?)

1. Bee breeding management and methods?

1. Cultivate into a production group as soon as possible

For newly purchased bee colonies, timely prevent and treat bee mites and other bee diseases, keep the number of bees greater than the number of combs (very important, beginners like to add combs), and keep the colony strong and disease-free. When there is a lack of nectar and pollen sources in the outside world, supplement the feed, and then reward feeding every day or every other day to stimulate the queen bee to lay more eggs. Healthy worker bees are in high spirits and can raise more strong young bees. Frequent watering in the nest not only saves "labor", but also avoids freezing to death of water-collecting bees or causing illness to the colony due to sewage collected, and can quickly develop the colony into a production colony with supers. At the same time, without breaking up the strong colony, rear the queen, organize the supers for mating, and implement the combination of production, rearing the queen, and mating.

2. Strong colony super box transfer insects to raise queens

When the bee colony develops into a super colony, natural queen cells will often appear. At this time, just let nature take its course, slightly enlarge the opening of the queen cell, take out the larvae in the cell without stirring the royal jelly, and select one-day-old larvae to move into the cell. Beginners need to practice moving larvae several times to ensure that the larvae are not harmed. If they cannot be moved, they can temporarily use a natural cell and select the best queen to keep later.

Multiple natural queen cells (preferably artificially transplanted queen cells) can be used on one comb, and all queen cells on other combs should be destroyed. Put the queen-rearing comb into the super, and place larval combs and honey-pollen combs on both sides. It is best to add a double-layer queen excluder between the nest and the super, and add a gauze cover frame (without gauze) between the two boards, so that there is a certain space between the two queen excluders to reduce the impact of the old queen on the super.

3. Stack the third box to make a crossover box

The day before the new queen comes out, add another super, open the side door or the back door, add a queen excluder between the two supers, lift the honeycomb with queen cells into the new super (i.e. the third box), and then lift two honeycombs and place them on both sides of the honeycomb with the queen cells. When the young queen comes out three days later, remove the queen excluder between the mating box and the original box, replace it with a gauze cover and add a cloth, shake off the worker bees from the two queenless honeycombs, return them to the original group, and leave one honeycomb in the mating box as an independent mating group. Observe the egg-laying situation of the new king after 10 days. If it is normal, the new king has successfully mated.

4. Swarming to increase the colony

There are two methods to isolate the proliferating population:

1. Take the new queen colony out of the original box and move it to a new location. Then add a capped comb that is about to be released from the room. After 3 days, add a second capped comb to form a production colony as soon as possible.

2. Take out the old queen with two sealed honeycombs as a new colony, and shake in two worker honeycombs, and supplement and develop them as soon as possible to become a production colony. At the same time, remove the cloth covering the mating box and the original box, leaving the gauze. After 8-12 hours, spray the whole colony with white wine syrup (500g syrup added to two small cups of white wine), put the honeycomb with the new queen in the super, spray some white wine syrup, sprinkle the mating box, and cover the beehive. Observe the queen on the next day. If she is normal, swap the supers (or the queen enters the hive), and the colony will be successfully multiplied.

2. Beekeeping techniques?

1. Tips for choosing beehives: beehives are placed outdoors for a long time, exposed to wind, rain and sun, and bees live and raise bees and store feed in beehives, so the structure of the beehive must conform to the living habits of bees, the size should be standardized, and the structure should be strong and durable. The wood used to make beehives should be solid, light, and not easy to deform, and it should be fully dried. In the north, white pine, basswood, and paulownia should be used, and in the south, fir should be used.

2. The construction of honeycombs should be started in late spring when the climate is stable and the temperature is around 15°C. Honeycombs need to be protected from bee robbers and rodents, and it is best to use fumigation drugs when storing them.

.3. Seasonal management of bee breeding: Pay attention to keeping the bee colony warm in spring. Spring management should be based on the climate. When the temperature stabilizes at 15℃, the bees should be moved to a place where flowers are in full bloom so that the bees have enough nectar to collect. In spring, the more bees fly out, the stronger and healthier the bee colony is. If there are few bees flying out of the beehive, it should be checked quickly and handled in time. The box should be opened for inspection at noon when the weather is good and the temperature is at least above 8℃.

4. Do a good job in bee colony mite control. Bee mites are the most important pests of bees, which seriously harm bee colonies and affect production.

3. Beekeeping techniques and methods?

Beekeeping requires little investment, has quick results and high returns. The technical points are as follows:

1. Site selection

There should be sufficient main and auxiliary nectar and pollen sources within a radius of 2.5 kilometers around the site, and the main and auxiliary nectar and pollen sources should be properly matched. The site should be located on a south-facing slope near a mountain, with sufficient sunlight, a high mountain as a screen, natural shade above, southerly winds in summer and northerly winds in winter, fertile soil, vigorous growth of nectar plants, long flowering period, sufficient water, and convenient transportation.

(II) Selection of bee colonies

1. Purchase time: The best time to buy in the north is April to May. This is the breeding period for bee colonies, the selection is relatively stable, and the external environment is good, making it easier to raise bees successfully.

2. Selection method: Observe at the nest entrance. If the worker bees are diligent in going in and out and collect more pollen, they are generally lively and good. Open the box and check. If the worker bees are quiet and not panic, it means they are gentle. If the queen bee is large, has thick feet, is tall, has a wide chest, a long and plump abdomen, is covered with dense hair, and lays eggs quickly and flexibly without panic, it means the queen bee is young and strong, with strong egg-laying ability.

3. Arrangement of bee colonies: It depends on the size of the site, the number of bees and the season. There are four arrangements: single-box arrangement, double-box arrangement, staggered arrangement and triple-box arrangement.

(III) Feeding

1. Supplementary feeding: artificial feeding when nectar sources are scarce. The methods are as follows: ① Supplementary feeding with honey. Honey can be diluted with 20% warm water (crystallized honey needs to be boiled with a little water). The diluted honey can be fed to the bees by gavage or poured into a frame feeder. ② Supplementary feeding with syrup. Syrup is made by adding 50% white sugar to water, which is heated and fully dissolved and then cooled to lukewarm. It is best to add 0.1% citric acid to the syrup to facilitate digestion and absorption. Brown sugar should not be used at this time.

2. Reward feeding: artificial feeding during the bee colony breeding period and the bee production period, generally give a small amount of 60% nectar or 50% syrup, once every other day in early spring, and once a day as consumption increases, starting from 40 days before the nectar flow period until a large amount of honey and pollen are collected from the outside. Each frame of bees can be rewarded with 50-100 grams of syrup each time.

3. Feeding pollen: The purpose is to supplement protein feed. In the late winter and early spring, the pollen saved in the previous autumn can be supplemented, and soybean powder can also be used instead. The feeding method is as follows: ① Liquid feeding. Add 10 times the syrup to the pollen, boil it, and put it into the feeder after it cools down. ② Cake feeding. Add the same amount of honey or syrup to the pollen or substitute pollen, stir it evenly, make it into a cake, wrap it with plastic paper, open it at both ends, and place it on the frame beam for the bees to feed. This method is often used when encountering cold currents.

4. Feeding water and salt: Generally, each bee colony needs 200 to 300 ml of water every day. Fill the feeder with water or put a wet towel on the gauze cover for the bees to collect water by themselves. Add 1% salt to the syrup.

4. Management

1. Spring management: ① Promote bees to fly and excrete. Raise the temperature in the center of the nest to 33-35℃, provide sufficient nectar and pollen sources or reward feeding, open the box cover and insulation in time, and let them fly out of the nest to excrete. ② Insulate the hive. After excretion, it enters the breeding period, and artificial heat preservation is required. Compact the hive and make the colony dense. Raise multiple colonies in the same box, and keep the box warm inside and outside. In the north, it lasts until April to May.

2. Management during the honey flow period: ① Adjust and organize the honey collection group in the early stage. ② Maintain strong groups to collect honey. Control the queen bee's egg laying. Use a queen excluder to restrict the queen bee to one area of ​​the hive or the hive. To cut off the brood and collect honey, you can take out the queen bee and 1 to 2 honeycombs from the honey collection group 5 days before the big honey flow period to form another small group. The next day, lure a mature queen cell into the honey collection group, which can greatly increase the honey production. Pay attention to the management of small groups. For those weak groups that cannot collect honey, create conditions to promote the rapid development of the group. Under the premise of appropriate honey collection, we must do a good job of reproduction in order to replenish the group.

3. Management in autumn: ① Cultivate a new queen and replace the old and inferior queen. ② Cultivate overwintering bees of appropriate age. Overwintering bees of appropriate age refer to the young bees that have emerged from the hive before overwintering, have only performed two or three excretion flights, have not done any feeding and collecting work, and have not secreted royal jelly. In order for the overwintering bees to overwinter safely, the birth of young bees born after the nectar flow period must be controlled to maintain the strength of the bee colony. The method of control is to force the queen bee to stop laying eggs at a certain time during the nectar flow period. ③ Timely early termination of spawning. In the later stage of cultivating overwintering bees, first use honey and pollen to press the combs, and pour honey 2 to 3 times, so that the queen bee will stop laying eggs. At the same time, move the bee colony to a cool place, expand the bees slightly by 1 time, and take out the pollen combs from the hive, and remove the insulation, so as to terminate the spawning early.

4. Winter management: ① Adjust the nest door. The height of the nest door should be 6-7 mm and the width should be 60-70 mm. ② Prevent honey crystallization. Strengthen insulation, or stuff some wet cotton balls into the box through the nest door to reduce ventilation. ③ Wintering indoors in the north. The beehive should be brought into the room before the water freezes and the ground is not covered with snow. When entering the room, the beehive should be 20 cm away from the wall and the first layer should be 40 cm away from the ground. The room temperature should be kept at 0-2℃ and the humidity should be kept between 75% and 80%.

4. Beekeeping skills and methods?

1. Site selection

The place for beekeeping must be selected in a place with abundant nectar sources, quiet environment, good ventilation and sunshine, flat terrain, and high and dry areas. At the same time, it also needs to be far away from pollution sources, crowded places, and places with many natural enemies.

2. Tool preparation

First, you need a standard beehive, then a nest frame. It is recommended to buy a nest frame with a nest foundation installed directly. Next, there are three protective kits: bee clothes, bee hats, and gloves. The rest are some small accessories, such as: escape prevention sheets, queen bee cages, queen bee clamps, feeders, bee collection cages, etc.

3. Things to do when transferring containers

The transfer should be carried out under the condition of stable temperature above 20℃ and clear and windless. If the original bee colony is located in an inconvenient place to operate, it should be moved to the transfer location gradually every day. In order to avoid excessive concentration of bees and fighting during the transfer, the transfer should be carried out in batches and the bee colony should be evacuated in time according to the situation.

4. Feeding management

Feeding is a key technology that must be mastered in beekeeping. It can be roughly divided into subsidized feeding and reward feeding. Subsidized feeding is to supplement the bee colony with the food necessary for survival, while reward feeding is to stimulate the queen bee to lay eggs and encourage worker bees to feed larvae.

5. Bee breeding and management?

When raising bees, it is necessary to establish a breeding place in a place with abundant nectar sources, good water quality, and sheltered from the wind and facing the sun. In the spring, the bees must be kept warm by covering the beehives with windproof cloth. In the summer, it is necessary to take cooling measures for the bees and place sunshade nets on the beehives to prevent the bees from dying after being exposed to the sun.

How to raise bees

1. Breeding sites

When raising bees, it is necessary to establish a breeding place in a place with good water quality, sufficient water source, and sheltered from the wind and facing the sun. In addition, different plants should be selected in different seasons to provide nectar sources for the bees and facilitate their nectar collection. For example, in spring, plants such as rapeseed or peach trees should be planted near the place.

2. Spring maintenance

Spring is the breeding season for bees. When raising bees in spring, you need to keep them warm. You can place windshield cloth on the beehive and install a heating plate under the beehive to keep the temperature inside the beehive at around 34 degrees to facilitate the breeding and growth of bees. In addition, you should clean the bees when the weather is clear.

3. Summer maintenance

The temperature is higher in summer, which affects the number and quality of eggs laid by the queen bee. When raising bees in summer, it is necessary to take cooling measures. You can place shade nets on the beehives to prevent the bees from being exposed to direct sunlight, and you should also replace the old queen bee with a new one if her reproductive ability has deteriorated.

4. Winter management

The low temperature in winter can cause the death of bees. When raising bees in winter, you need to provide them with food. You can use sugar water made by mixing sugar and water, or honey water made by diluting honey with water. In addition, you should place a double layer of warm cloth on the beehive to allow the bees to survive the winter smoothly.

6. What are the techniques and methods of beekeeping?

1. Choose beehives

A basic condition for raising bees is to choose suitable beehives. You should choose boxes made of solid materials and light texture. Since beehives are generally placed in the open air and bees spend most of their lives outdoors, a good environment must be provided.

2. Transfer bee colonies

First, prepare the live-frame beehive in advance, transfer the purchased bee colony or the wild trapped bees into the beehive, and generally put the honeycomb together, so that the bees can quickly adapt to the new environment and resume normal activities.

3. Subsidized feeding

During the period of honey-gathering, bees are fed supplementary food, usually starting with artificial feeding in the evening, such as pollen, sugar water, honey, etc. In winter, bees collect less honey, so the number of feedings needs to be increased. They can be fed once in the morning and once in the evening with diluted sugar water.

4. Planting plants

In the process of raising bees, a large number of flowers and plants, such as peonies, peonies, rape flowers, etc., can be planted around the site to provide sufficient nectar sources to prevent the bees from flying to distant places and reducing economic benefits.

7. How to raise bees, bee raising techniques and bee raising methods?

Beginner beekeepers need: 1. beehives 2. bee tools 3. bee species 4. four-season management 5. disease prevention and control, etc. There is a lot of content but space is limited, so I will just briefly introduce some of them.

1. Beehives, nest frames, nest foundations, honey shakers, scrapers, beehive nets, smokers, queen excluders and other appliances.

Standard beehive box. At present, the beehive commonly used in my country is the 10-frame standard box, also known as the Lang's beehive. It is composed of 10 nest frames, a box body, a box bottom, a nest door board, a sub-cover, a box cover and a partition. Ten-frame box: It can be made of strong and durable wood such as red and white pine, fir, and poplar that do not deform. The thickness of the board is not less than 2 cm. The inner circumference of the box is 465 mm long, 380 mm wide, and 245 mm high. There is a buckle on the outside of the front and rear walls for easy transportation. A groove with a width of 8 mm and a depth of 25 mm is opened on the upper part of the inner side of the front and rear walls. An iron sheet guide is nailed on the notch, and the upper edge of the guide is 17 mm away from the upper edge of the box body. 2. Box cover a, beehive cover b (sub-cover) yarn cover. 3. Box bottom.

2. Beekeeping tools

There are many tools for bee breeding and management. In addition to the beehive, there are also nest foundations, honey dividers, nets, scrapers, bee brooms, queen excluders, etc. They are all necessary and should be selected according to the size of the bees. Other bee tools such as tools for producing royal jelly and bee pollen can be purchased as needed.

1. Nest foundation

The foundation is installed in the nest frame for bees to build honeycombs. It is a piece of artificial beeswax pressed by a foundation machine, and has a base for the bottom and wall of the honeycomb. There are Italian honeycomb foundations for raising European honeybees; drone honeycomb foundations for producing drone pupae; and Chinese honeycomb foundations for raising Chinese honeybees. Honeycombs built with foundations are neat, flat, and solid, with fewer drone cells.

2. Face net

A face net is a tool used to protect the operator's head and neck from bee stings when managing a bee colony.

3. Use the scraper

A special tool for beekeeping. One end is a curved blade, the other end is a flat blade. Use it to pry, scrape, and shovel things, such as prying the sub-cover, scraping dirt inside the beehive and on the nest frame.

4. Smoke emitter

It is a tool for taming or driving away bees. It consists of two parts: a smoke tube and a net box. When using it, light paper, hay or linen, put it in the smoke tube, cover the mouth, and blow the bellows to make it spray out thick smoke, but not sparks.

5. Bee Broom

It is mainly used to clean the bees attached to honeycombs, boxes, queen raising frames and other beekeeping tools. It is a long fan-shaped long-bristled brush. Generally, there are two rows of bristles, the bristles are 65 mm long, and are made of white horsehair or horsetail hair that is not easy to absorb water.

6. Beehive stool

It can be used to store beekeeping tools and record books, and can be used as a bench when inspecting the bee colony.

7. Queen excluder

The queen excluder is a grid that controls the queen bee's egg-laying and activities. It strictly separates the bee colony into the insect-raising area and the honey-producing area, so that larvae, pupae, pollen, etc. will not be mixed with honey, and worker bees can pass freely. The lead wire queen excluder made of No. 14 lead wire is strong and durable, and not easy to deform; the gap between the two lead wires is about 4.4 mm, and the queen bee cannot pass through, but the price is relatively expensive. The bamboo wire queen excluder made of bamboo wire with a diameter of 7.5 mm is easy to obtain in southern my country, easy to process, and low in cost, but the firmness is poor and it is easy to deform. The queen excluder is divided into a flat queen excluder and a frame queen excluder. The flat queen excluder separates the insect-raising nest and the honey storage super box, which is convenient for taking honey and improving the quality of honey. The frame queen excluder is inserted in the beehive to control the queen bee to lay eggs on several combs.

8. Feeding utensils There are many kinds of utensils for feeding honey, syrup or water. Commonly used ones are:

(1) The nest door feeder, also known as a bottle feeder, consists of a wide-mouth bottle and a base. The bottle cap is nailed with several small holes with inch-long nails. The bottle filled with honey is turned upside down and inserted into the base. Under atmospheric pressure, the honey can be sucked out by the bees without dripping. At night, the base of the nest door feeder is inserted into the nest from the nest door. It is suitable for reward feeding and can avoid bee theft. For weak colonies that are not full, it can be placed outside the partition in the beehive for feeding. The plastic cup feeder developed by the bee farm of Hebei Agricultural University is easy to carry. After filling it with syrup, cover the bottom cover, turn the bottom cover over and lay it flat facing down, and insert it into the nest from the nest door.

(2) Frame feeder

It is a long flat feeding trough similar in size to a standard nest frame. It can be made of wood, plastic, or thick bamboo. Inside the trough, there are thin wooden floating strips for the bees to stand on and suck when feeding. The frame feeder is suitable for supplementary feeding. In addition, a rectangular shallow groove is chiseled on the upper beam of the nest frame, which can also be used to feed a small amount of honey.

(3) Nest top feeder

It is a large feeder placed on top of the beehive. It is similar in size to the disc of a shallow super and is suitable for emergency feed supplementation and wintering feed feeding. It can hold 5 to 10 liters of syrup at a time.

9. Queen bee attractor

Commonly used queen bee attractants include wooden sleeve attractants, safety attractants and frame attractants.

(1) Wooden trap

The wooden trap is a flat iron cage with a small hole on the wooden plug at one end, which is equipped with a removable iron sheet. A thin wooden board is inserted into the open end of the iron cage.

(2) The safety attractor, also known as the honeycomb attractor, is a rectangular silver silk gauze cage with iron teeth on the lower part of the four walls that can press the honeycomb into place. There is a removable iron sheet at the lower part.

(3) Full frame decoy

The frame is made of wooden or iron plates, and the two large sides are equipped with lead wire mesh. The internal width is about 43 mm and the height is 245 mm, which can just fit a honeycomb and has a pull-out plate on it.

(4) Queen Bee Cage

It is a rectangular cage made of lead yarn, with a volume of about 23 tm × 33 mm × 50 mm. There is a round hole on the iron wall, through which the queen cell or queen bee can be placed. There is a sliding iron cover on the round hole, and a wooden feed trough that can be opened and closed is installed at the bottom, and refined sugar can be placed in the trough. It can be used to lure in the queen cell or queen bee, and can also be used to imprison the queen bee. In recent years, a queen bee cage made of bamboo silk has been widely used. Plastic sheets with small holes drilled around them are used as the upper and lower ends. Bamboo silk with a diameter of 2 mm is inserted into the small holes to form a rectangular cage with a volume of about 20 mm × 33 mm × 50 mm. The distance between each bamboo silk is 3 mm. One of the bamboo silks is longer and movable, and can be pulled out. The queen bee is placed here. It is mostly used in late autumn or winter to lock the queen bee of the bee colony in a bamboo silk queen bee cage to stop the queen bee production, which is convenient for the prevention and control of bee mites.

3. Bee species

Choose bees. The main bee species raised now are hybrid bees of Italian bees and black bees. For those who are new to beekeeping, in early spring, they usually buy about four boxes of bees, three to four boxes of bees, and then they can be raised.

(1) Oriental honey bee

There are many natural species of Oriental honey bees, such as Indian bees, Javan bees, Japanese bees and Chinese honey bees.

Chinese honey bees (Apis cerana) are native bees in my country. Worker bees are 10 to 12 mm long; the dorsal plate of the abdominal segments is black with obvious or unclear brown-yellow rings. The abdomen of Chinese honey bees in high latitudes and high mountainous areas is black; the color of those in low latitudes and plains is yellowish. The whole body is covered with short gray hairs. The beak is 4.5 to 5.6 mm long. The drone is 11 to 14 mm long, with a black or dark brown body color and gray hairs all over the body. The queen is 14 to 19 mm long, with black and brown-red body colors, and the whole body is covered with black and dark yellow hairs.

Worker bees have a keen sense of smell, can quickly find nectar sources, are good at using scattered nectar sources, are agile in flight, actively collect, do not collect gum, and wax does not contain gum. They are strong in resistance to bee mites, have strong thieving and swarming abilities, and are prone to flying away when nectar sources are scarce or when pests and diseases invade. They are weak in resistance to nest insects and love to bite and destroy old honeycombs. They are susceptible to cystic brood disease and European brood disease. The queen bee has a weak egg-laying ability, and the daily egg-laying volume rarely exceeds 1,000 eggs, but she can adjust the egg-laying volume quickly according to the changes in the conditions of the nectar and pollen sources. When the queen bee is lost, worker bees are more likely to lay eggs.

Because the Chinese honey bee is a native bee species in my country, it has a strong adaptability to local climate and nectar conditions, has stable production and is suitable for fixed-location breeding, especially in the mountainous areas of the south, and it has an irreplaceable position that other bee species cannot.

(ii) Western honey bee

There are three types of honey bees: European, African and Middle Eastern. The honey bees raised in my country are all European, and we often call them European honey bees.

1. Italian Bee

Italian bees are yellow in color. The abdominal plate of worker bees is yellow chitinous, and there is a yellow ring on the front edge of the dorsal plate of the second to fourth abdominal segments. The body length is 12-14 mm, and the hairs are light yellow; the beak is 6.2-6.9 mm long. They have weak swarming ability and can maintain a strong colony; they are good at collecting large nectar sources that last for a long time. They build honeycombs quickly and produce a lot of wax. They are mild in nature, not afraid of light, and bees are quiet when the honeycombs are lifted for inspection. They have strong resistance to nest insects. Italian bees are easy to get lost in the nest, love to steal, and have weak resistance to bee mites. The queen bee has strong egg-laying ability, and the worker bees secrete a lot of royal jelly and have strong feeding ability. They can maintain a large area of ​​honeycombs from spring to autumn and maintain a strong colony.

Italian bees are the main bee species raised in my country. Their wintering performance is not as good as that of the Northeast black bees and other European black bees. Except for the difficulty of oversummering in the subtropical areas of South China and the fact that they are not raised in Tibet, Italian bees are raised all over the country.

2. Carniola

The size and shape of the Carpathian bee are similar to those of the Italian bee, with a black abdomen, gray hair on the body, and a beak length of 6.4 to 6.8 mm. Carpathian bees are good at collecting early nectar sources in spring and early summer, and can also use scattered nectar sources. They are highly swarming, cold-resistant, and have strong directional ability, and collect less gum. They are mild in nature, not afraid of light, and are quiet when the comb is lifted for inspection. The queen bee has a strong egg-laying ability, and the colony develops rapidly in spring. During the main honey-collecting period, the queen bee's egg-laying is easily restricted by the honey intake, which compresses the egg-laying circle. 3. Carpathian bee

It is a local species of Carniola bee, with the same morphology and biological characteristics as the Carniola bee.

3. Northeastern Black Bee

Northeastern black bees are raised in Heilongjiang Province. They are a hybrid of the Carcharodon carcharias and the European black bees, and have some Italian bee blood. They are similar in shape to the Carcharodon carcharias, with black abdominal segments, gray hairs, and an average beak length of 6.4 mm. They are weak in swarming, cold-resistant, mild, and not afraid of light. The queen bee has a strong egg-laying ability, the colony develops quickly in spring, and is good at collecting nectar sources with large nectar flows.

4. European black bee

The worker bee is 12 to 15 mm long, with a thick abdomen and a black back plate. Some have yellow-brown spots on the back plates of the second and third abdominal segments. The hair is dark brown and the average length of the beak is 6.4 mm. It has a strong swarming tendency. It collects a lot of gum and is afraid of light. When inspected, the bees crawl around. The queen bee has a strong egg-laying ability. The colony develops slowly in spring and is good at collecting the main nectar sources in summer and autumn. The European black bees raised in the Yili area of ​​Xinjiang, my country are also called Xinjiang black bees, most of which have been mixed with Italian bees.

(III) High-yield bee species selected and bred in my country

1. Zhejiang Agricultural University No. 1 Italian Bee Variety

The No. 1 Italian bee variety of Zhejiang Agricultural University is a high-yield Italian bee variety of honey and royal jelly, which was bred by the College of Animal Science of Zhejiang Agricultural University, the Bee Research Institute of the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Bee Science Department of Fujian Agricultural College, and the School of Life Sciences of Peking University. In 1995, it won the second prize of the National Invention Award and the gold medal of the Second China Agricultural Expo. According to expert appraisal, the royal jelly production of the No. 1 bee of Zhejiang Agricultural University is significantly higher than that of other bee varieties (strains) raised in my country; the colony growth rate is relatively large in spring, and more pollen is collected and used; the honey production is comparable to that of other strains of Italian bees, and changes have also occurred in morphology and isozymes. It is a high-yield variety of royal jelly and honey. One kilogram of bees (4 frames of bees) in early spring can produce 4 kilograms of royal jelly in a production period of 7 to 8 months.

2. Baishan No. 5 triple hybrid bee

Baishan No. 5 triple hybrid bees are excellent hybrid bees successfully bred by the Jilin Provincial Beekeeping Science Research Institute. This species has won the second prize of the National Science and Technology Progress Award. The reproduction capacity of Baishan No. 5 triple hybrid bees is 18% higher than that of ordinary Italian bees, the honey production is increased by more than 30%, the royal jelly production is increased by more than 20%, the weakening rate of wintering colony strength is reduced by 10%, and the wintering feed consumption is reduced by 25%. It has the advantages of fast proliferation, strong colony strength, high yield, low consumption, and safe wintering.

3. High-yield hybrids

The high-yield honey hybrid (Guofeng 213) and high-yield royal jelly hybrid (Guofeng 414) bred by the Bee Research Institute of the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences have increased honey and royal jelly production by 70% and 60% respectively over that of ordinary Italian bees.

4. Pinghu Royal Jelly High-yielding Italian Bee Strain

Pinghu Royal Jelly High-yielding Italian Bee Strain is a high-yielding royal jelly strain bred by Zhou Liangguan and Wang Jin, professional beekeepers in Pinghu County, Zhejiang Province, after more than 20 years of targeted breeding. Experts have identified that Pinghu Italian bees produce 30% to 228% more royal jelly than ordinary Italian bees raised locally, with an average increase of 87%. In periods when the nectar source is poor or even lacking nectar and pollen sources, high royal jelly yields can be obtained by feeding, which is suitable for long-term production of royal jelly in fixed locations and can achieve higher economic benefits.

5. Xiaoshan Royal Jelly High-yield Italian Bee Strains

Xiaoshan Royal Jelly High-yielding Italian Bee strain was developed by Hong Dexing, a professional beekeeper in Xiaoshan County, Zhejiang Province, after 18 years of targeted breeding in the Tianmu Mountain area. Xiaoshan Italian Bee has a strong ability to produce high royal jelly. As long as there is sufficient pollen source or artificial pollen, it can obtain high and stable royal jelly production. This bee species also has the advantages of weak swarming, easy to maintain strong colonies, and strong honey collection ability.

6. The two double-cross bees, Songdan No. 1 and Songdan No. 2, were bred by the Jilin Provincial Beekeeping Science Research Institute. Their honey production increased by 73% and 56% respectively, their royal jelly production increased by 14% and 26% respectively, their wintering colony weakening rates decreased by 12% and 7.5% respectively, and their feed consumption decreased by 33% and 12% respectively.

There are a few things to keep in mind when keeping bees:

First, starvation prevention generally refers to the fact that bees are hungry in winter when flowers are blooming. Whether the feed is of high quality and sufficient in quantity during the entire wintering period is the basis for the success or failure of bees' wintering. If the feed is of high quality, most of the food will be digested by the bees, and the bee colony will be quiet and stable, with a long life span, no spring decline, and rapid spring reproduction; if the feed is of poor quality, the bees will digest less after eating, leaving more residues, and the feces in the intestines will easily cause big belly disease, which will cause partial death in mild cases and the whole colony to perish in severe cases. High-quality feed should be extracted from the honey comb when the cap is sealed in late autumn, with locust honey and jujube honey being the best; after the honey flow, high-quality syrup or white sugar liquid should be fed early to allow the bees to fully brew.

2. Heat protection The suitable temperature for bees to overwinter is 2-8℃. The bee colony stays together in the box and relies on honey to survive, and is in a dormant state. However, the temperature is above 8℃ for many days during the winter. The bees are very active, consume a lot of feed, and the worker bees age quickly, making it difficult for them to reproduce in the spring. Therefore, heat protection is necessary. The method is to use ventilation, watering or electric fans to cool down.

3. Cold prevention: The activity of bees overwintering in temperatures below -2℃ will also increase, mainly by increasing their food intake and swinging their abdomens constantly, generating heat to resist the severe cold. This not only consumes a lot of feed but also causes the worker bees to age and shorten their lifespan. The method of cold prevention is: small bee colonies should get more sun during the day, keep the nest door as small as possible at night, and fill the box gaps and wind tunnels.

Fourth, prevent dryness: In the long dry winter without rain or snow, water should be sprayed in the apiary to increase humidity to prevent the bees from thirst and the feed from drying and crystallizing. Because bees have no teeth, the feed will be hard and crystallized and cannot be eaten.

5. Moisture-proof: The humidity in the beehive is preferably 70%-80% in winter. When the humidity is above 80%, the feed will become thin and deteriorate, and the bees will have diarrhea after eating. If the humidity in the apiary is high, a layer of plastic film should be placed under the beehive, or quicklime and dry slag should be sprinkled around the beehive. You can also let the bees fly and defecate in a planned manner on sunny days above 10℃.

6. Light protection: Bees are phototropic and will fly out of their hives when the light is strong. In winter, if the apiary is outdoors, it should be covered and protected from light to minimize the energy consumption of bees by flying in the air.

7. Prevent suffocation: Bees need fresh air when they hibernate in the hive, so be sure to prevent dead bees and debris from blocking the hive entrance and suffocating them. On snowy days, be sure to prevent snow from clogging the hive entrance.

Bees like a quiet environment and are afraid of vibration (sound), especially in the late winter when they are weak and can hardly stand the accumulation of feces in their abdomen. If they are frightened by vibration, they often lose their spleen and freeze to death. Therefore, it is strictly forbidden to hit instruments that make violent noises and set off firecrackers in the bee farm.

Nine, prevent diseases and enemies. Keep the beehives clean and sanitary, pay attention to disinfection, and prevent diseases and pests such as bee mites. If mice are found in the bee farm in winter, they should be killed with poison bait, equipment, etc. As long as you do the above points, you can keep bees.

8. Beekeeping breeding technology?

1. Choose bee species: The adaptability of bee species in different places is different. It is recommended to keep your own species to ensure the purity of the bee species. Feed management: Mainly feed honey, and pollen can also be made into a paste for artificial feeding. Temperature management: Keep warm when the temperature is below 6℃. Prevention and control of diseases and pests: Prevention is the main thing. If diseases occur, they need to be dealt with in time.

2. When raising bees, you need to ensure that there is sufficient sugar feed at all times. The main feed for bees is honey, which is beneficial to prolong the growth cycle of bees and improve their physical fitness. Domestic bees have poor pollen collection ability, and basically the bee colonies are in a state of pollen shortage, which leads to the weak reproductive ability of Chinese bees. Therefore, they need to be fed pollen artificially. The pollen can be made into a paste for feeding, placed not far from the beehive, and let the bees move back to the beehive by themselves.

3. Before the bee colony hibernates, sufficient feed should be prepared. When the temperature is below 6°C, evenly spread the straw on the partitions in the beehive. After the temperature rises and stabilizes, in order to facilitate the growth and reproduction of the bees, all the straw can be removed according to the specific situation.