CATDOLL : CATDOLL: What are the technical management methods for raising native bees?

1. How to raise native bees?

Main points of native bee breeding technology:

1. Superior queen bee: The speed of bee colony reproduction and the level of production mainly depend on the quality of the queen bee. A young and strong queen bee has strong egg-laying ability, the colony develops rapidly, and can maintain a large colony. The worker bees also have strong collecting ability, work actively, have less swarming fever, and have higher production. Therefore, when raising native bees, excellent queen bees should be cultivated from high-yield strong colonies early in the breeding season to replace inferior or aging queen bees. In production, generally do not keep queen bees that are more than one year old.

2. Strong colony: Strong colony is the basis of high yield, and the strong colony of native bees is based on the actual situation of native bees, which cannot be compared with the strong colony of Italian bees, and each period has its own strong colony standard. Only with a strong colony can the queen bee's egg-laying ability be fully exerted, and the queen bee can resist the invasion of pests and diseases and safely survive the summer and autumn. Therefore, during the breeding period, it is advisable to maintain a colony strength of 2.5 to 3 full-frame bees, so that the colony can develop rapidly and meet the honey flow period; during the honey flow period, there should be a colony strength of 5 to 6 full-frame bees, and the yield will be high. When the main nectar source plants are blooming and nectar is flowing, the bee colony should be organized into a strong colony, concentrate on collecting honey, and store the excess queen bees in a small colony. After the honey flow period, the reserved queen bees can be used to separate the honey collection colony for reproduction. This can effectively increase the honey production and the reproduction speed of the bee colony, so that the bee colony is always in an active working state.

3. Sufficient honey: Sufficient honey in the nest can help the bee colony to survive the hard times when there is a lack of honey in the wild. If there is a lack of honey in the nest, the bee colony will be upset, abandon larvae, and the queen bee will stop laying eggs, and even steal bees and escape. Therefore, during reproduction, under the premise of not hindering the expansion of the egg circle, there should always be enough honey in the nest to encourage worker bees to spit out more honey to feed the worms and cultivate new bees with strong bodies. If there is insufficient honey in the nest, artificial feeding is required. Even during the period of large honey flow, the honey storage cannot be swept away all at once when shaking the honey, but the method of rotating the honeycomb should be adopted. This can not only stabilize the mood of the bee colony, but also ensure the quality of honey.

4. New combs: native bees like new combs and hate old ones. New combs have large cells and fresh wax. Queen bees especially like to lay eggs on new combs, and they reproduce quickly. The worker bees cultivated are strong and have strong collecting ability, and it is not easy for nest insects to occur in the colony. Therefore, we should seize the favorable opportunity to build more new combs to replace the old ones. Especially in the peak breeding period, the peak honey flow period and the late swarming period, we should hurry to build combs. But before adding the nest foundation, we should take out the old and inferior combs to make the bee colony dense. If necessary, we should also feed them so that the combs can be repaired quickly and of high quality to ensure that the bee colony has more than 80% new combs when it oversummers.

5. Crowding: Native bees like to live in dense groups. The bees and honeycombs should be kept symmetrical to protect the honeycombs and prevent invasion by pests such as nest insects. It is also beneficial to keep warm and moist. Practice has shown that dense groups in winter can save honey consumption and overwinter safely; dense groups during the honey flow period can promote quick honey storage, early maturity, and high yield; dense groups during the summer can reduce the size of the group and make it difficult for pests to invade.

6. Safe summering: Summering is a difficult problem for raising native bees in the south. To ensure safe summering, in addition to the above conditions, you also need to pay attention to shade, watering, preventing enemies and keeping the bee colony quiet.

2. How to raise native bees?

1. How to raise native bees and master the swarming rules of native bees. Every spring, when the flowers bloom outside, the food for native bees will increase. Native bees are at the peak of reproduction in spring. When the number of native bees in a bee colony exceeds 3,000, it is necessary to carry out swarming in time, otherwise there will be poor ventilation and overcrowding. If artificial swarming cannot be carried out in time at this time, the bee colony will swarm naturally, but the bee product yield of the bee colony produced by natural swarming is low and it is easy to get sick.

2. How to raise native honey bees using the close-range swarming method: When you find that the number of native honey bees in a bee colony exceeds 3,000, you can take out three to four frames of bees from the beehive, and then put them in a new beehive, and introduce a new queen bee with a queen cage. At the same time, you should also introduce a queen cell from other bee colonies. After two or three days, the native bees in the bee colony will accept the scent of the queen bee in the queen cage. At this time, release the queen bee to form a new bee colony.

3. How to swarm native honey bees early? You can also swarm native honey bees in advance before the number of native honey bees in the bee colony reaches a high number. When swarming in advance, you need to select four queen bees in the colony and transfer them to a new beehive. Move in a new queen bee and then close the hive door, leaving only one air window. Then transfer the beehive to a place three kilometers away. This will prevent the native honey bees from flying back to the original colony. Check on the next day whether the queen bee has started to build the queen cell. If it has, it means that the swarming is successful and you should give her more feed.

3. How to breed native bees?

Before raising native bees, some preparations are indispensable, such as movable frame beehives, etc., and planning the beekeeping site. If the scale is not large, then it can be done in front of or behind your home. Then make sure you fully understand the living habits of bees. The last and most important step is to capture the bee colony. After fully understanding the habits of bees, such as collecting honey and water, find the bee nest and collect it. If you can collect the honeycomb together, try to collect the honeycomb as well. You can also trap the bees on their route.

After catching the bee colony, we must do a good job of transferring it to the live-frame beehive in time. It is very convenient for both management and honey collection in breeding. When transferring, first fix the honeycomb in the nest frame, and then put it in the beehive. After placing it, the bee colony can be transferred to the beehive, and then place the escape-proof piece at the nest entrance. After transferring, we must do a good job of feeding. The feed can be sugar water or honey water. After the bee colony is stable, check the condition of the queen bee. If there is no queen bee, intervene in the queen cell in time, or let the bee colony build it by itself. After transferring, feed once every night as a reward.

4. Wild bee breeding technology?

When raising wild bees, you must first make adequate preparations.

1. Breeding preparation

First of all, the production of beekeeping barrels. Wild bees are very "wild". It is easy for them to run away when using home beehives for breeding. The living environment of wild bees in the original ecology of nature should be simulated. Therefore, in the breeding process, appropriate logs are selected to make beekeeping barrels. The wooden barrel is divided into two parts: the barrel cover and the barrel body. In order to prevent the bees from being crushed, the barrel cover is surrounded by cork bark into a cone shape. The wood used to make the barrel body must not have peculiar smell. Oak, root wood, birch and other logs can be used. Peel off the bark. It is best to have no insect eyes and deep cracks. The diameter of the wooden barrel is about 30cm. If the barrel is too thin, the space is small and it is not suitable for bees to move around, and the honey production is too low; if it is too thick, the volume is large and the weight is heavy, it is inconvenient to carry it manually when harvesting honey and cleaning the nest.

The height of the barrel is 80cm. The barrel core is dug out with a chisel. The barrel wall should be planed smooth with a thickness of 7~8cm. This will provide better protection against cold and heat. Two adjacent bee entrances and exits are left at the bottom of the barrel. If cracks or holes are found on the barrel during use, they should be sealed with yellow mud in time.

Then, it is time to choose a beekeeping spot. After the beehive is made, choose a large flat stone as the base for the vertical beehive, and support it with 3 to 4 wooden stakes. The height should be based on the convenience of daily operation and management. Choose a sunny place to set up the beehive. No weeds or rocks should be left under the base. You can also lay quicklime on the ground to sterilize and prevent insects. The stone surface of the base should be frequently scrubbed with salt water to sterilize and prevent insects. After scrubbing, sprinkle a layer of salt evenly. In addition, the beekeeping site must be close to the water source and away from the water that needs to be sprayed.

Bees are running away from their nests.

Finally, in the spring when flowers are blooming, choose a clear area under a shady cliff according to the terrain, set up a beehive and prepare to collect bees. Check the beehive regularly and remove wasps, ants and other insects in time, because once the beehive is occupied by foreign insects, wild bees will not come. Once wild bees are found to be building nests in the beehive, wait until the evening when the bees have closed their nests, and then two people can work together to move the beehive over, pick it up with a sand net, and carry it home for breeding.

The technologies in breeding management include

2. Breeding management

First, expand the breeding of wild bees. In order to expand the scale of wild bee breeding, do not collect honey from the bees collected that year. Keep enough food and store more energy to prepare for the expansion of wild bee breeding. If managed well, one nest of bees can be divided into 3 to 4 nests next year.

Then there is disease and insect prevention. Wild bees have strong disease resistance. As long as they are well protected from rain and heat in summer, frost in winter, and starvation in spring, the occurrence of diseases will be reduced. In the production process, more attention should be paid to insect prevention. The main pests are wasps, ants, etc. The prevention of wild bees such as wasps mainly relies on driving them away, and they can be eliminated on the spot if there is a chance. If ants are found to harm the beehive, charcoal ash can be evenly spread around the wooden stakes at the base of the beehive to burn them. At the same time, thick ash can also prevent other pests from crawling into the beehive to harm the bee colony. However, chemical pesticides cannot be used in the process of disease and insect prevention.

Next is safe wintering. After wild bees have closed their nests in late autumn, the first thing to do is to leave enough honey for the wild bees, and then use thin yellow mud to seal the gap between the bottom of the beehive and the stone base. Straw can be used to weave a conical hat to cover the beehive. On cold nights, straw curtains can be used to surround the beehive to prevent the bees from freezing. When there is plenty of sunshine and the weather turns warm, pay attention to ventilating the beehive.

Another thing is to clean the nest. When the climate warms up around Qingming Festival, wild bees have lived in the beehive for a long time and accumulated a lot of food residues and feces. At this time, the yellow mud at the bottom of the sealed barrel should be removed in time, and the beehive should be moved over for thorough cleaning. At the same time, the remaining amount of honey in the barrel should be observed. After the consumption in winter, there may be very few wild bees left. At this time, the activity of wild bees is gradually increasing, various flowers and trees have just recovered, and there are few nectar sources. The honey brewed by wild bees is not enough to supply their own consumption. Therefore, it is necessary to use syrup to nourish them, and feed and manage them frequently. If the feeding is improper, the physical energy of wild bees will be too much, and their physical strength will drop quickly, making them prone to illness or starvation. In addition, in order to prevent the invasion of cold currents, it is necessary to pay attention to shielding at night. As the weather temperature gradually rises, the beehive should be padded for ventilation.

Finally, the season of nest division. Around the beginning of summer, wild bees divide their nests. You can hang more beehive covers around the beekeeping site in advance to facilitate the bees to build nests. Pay attention to the movements of the nest-selecting bees. Once you find wild bees building nests elsewhere, hold the beehive cover in one hand and use a green branch in the other hand to gently drive the wild bees to the beehive cover, and then move them into the beehive. If you find that the nest is running away, you can use sand to beat the bee colony back in time, and then seize the opportunity to catch the wild bees.

5. How to raise wild bees?

1. To lure wild bees home, first make a beehive. The beehive can be made of a wooden barrel or a plastic barrel. The beehive should be well sealed and only a movable nest door is required. After the beehive is made, you need to make an attractant. The attractant can be made by boiling white sugar and honey. Apply the boiled syrup on the inner wall of the beehive, open the nest door, and place it near the wild bee nest or a place where they often move. Bees have a very sensitive sense of smell. After a few days, they will actively enter the beehive. In this way, the bee attracting is successful, but this is not the real bee attracting. Another step is needed.

2. Find some old beehives, choose a wooden barrel, light the old beehives and put them in the barrel for smoking. Be careful not to burn the barrel. Then evenly smear the barrel with beeswax, place it near the beehive, light the old beehive again, let the smell drift, the bees will enter the beehive after smelling the smell, be careful not to move the beehive, so as not to alarm the bees, otherwise it will be difficult to lure them next time. After the queen bee enters, you can seal it and take it home. The difficulty of luring wild bees home lies in the queen bee, so be patient.