CATDOLL : CATDOLL: What are the common diseases of fish kept in aquariums?

1. What are the common diseases of fish in fish tanks?

Mainly divided into the following categories:

1. Trauma

2. Bacterial infection

3. Fungal infection

4. Parasites

5. Hypoxia

6. Poisoning

7. Temperature difference allergy

2. What is the disease of ornamental fish lying on the top of the tank?

It is swim bladder loss disease. The swim bladder of the diseased fish is often filled with gas and cannot be adjusted. The fish cannot swim and eat normally, and turns over on the water surface with its belly facing up. The cause of the disease is not very clear yet. It may be related to the fact that the feed particles are too small, chronic inflammation, etc., causing blockage of the swim bladder tube, or it may be related to drastic changes in water temperature.

Swim bladder disorder (swim bladder disorder, capsizing disease)

Overview: The swim bladder of diseased fish is often filled with gas and cannot be adjusted. The fish cannot swim and feed normally, and turns over on the water surface with its belly facing up. The cause of the disease is not very clear yet. It may be related to the feed particles being too small, chronic inflammation causing blockage of the swim bladder tube, etc., or it may be related to drastic changes in water temperature.

Symptoms: Goldfish with this disease cannot maintain their body balance, sometimes they will do somersaults, and finally sink to the bottom of the water or float on the surface. Goldfish with short bodies and enlarged abdomens are most likely to suffer from this disease. Sick fish have a normal appetite and can survive for a long time, but they lose their ornamental value.

Goldfish have an organ that regulates their body weight, called the swim bladder. The amount of gas in the swim bladder is closely related to the water layer in which the fish stays. When the gas in the swim bladder is discharged, the fish sinks; if there is enough gas, the fish floats. The fins are mainly used to make fish rise and fall. Fish can still rise or fall even if they have fins but no swim bladder. The function of the swim bladder is to make the fish stay in a certain water layer. Submarines are made based on this principle.

The fish swim bladder is composed of elastic connective tissue and a small amount of smooth muscle. When the fish swim bladder is disturbed by cold, the fish body will tilt, fall head, turn belly up, float or sink.

Goldfish often suffer from swim bladder loss in winter, especially those over 2 years old, with short bodies, small tail fins, and well-developed head and fins. The main reasons are that the water temperature is too low, causing the goldfish to freeze, malnutrition, sudden changes in water temperature, poor water quality, etc., which cause the swim bladder to lose its function of regulating balance. Among them, the sudden change (sudden drop) in water temperature is an important factor. Especially when the goldfish is full, it should digest food in a comfortable and quiet environment. If it is suddenly exposed to sudden changes in air temperature or water temperature or lack of oxygen, it will not only cause gastrointestinal diseases, but also cause the swim bladder regulation function to be disordered and eventually lead to swim bladder loss; secondly, overfeeding will cause the goldfish to often lack oxygen and float, which is also prone to swim bladder loss. Therefore, special attention should be paid to these.

Prevention and control measures Fold edit this section

incurable disease.

Experience: Swim bladder disorder is one of the most troublesome diseases for fish disease experts. There is no good treatment at present. It is generally believed that shallow water rest can help recovery. Another method is artificial surgery: adding stones to the fish's belly or tying foam on the dorsal fin to help the goldfish find balance. Recently, I saw a folk remedy on the Internet, which is to feed the goldfish with swim bladder disorder with boiled mung beans, one bean a day. It is said to be effective, but the principle is unknown.

1----Keep warm. If the temperature is too low, try to move the outdoor fish tank indoors or into a greenhouse to prevent the fish from getting cold and getting sick.

2----When changing water, the temperature of the new water should be 0.5-1.0° higher than the water temperature in the fish tank, and the new water should be slowly injected along the wall of the tank.

3----It is generally best to change the water before feeding, which can help stimulate the appetite of goldfish and not easily cause gastrointestinal discomfort. Do not change the water too quickly after feeding.

Water changes should be delayed for at least 2 hours.

4----Usually feed the baby until he is 80% full or feed small meals frequently.

5----For fish that have lost their swim bladder, the water temperature should be appropriately increased or they should be kept in shallow water as soon as possible.

3. What is the disease of goldfish tail rot?

Skin mold disease, also known as Saprolegniasis and white hair disease, is one of the most common diseases of ornamental fish.

[Symptoms] When catching and transporting ornamental fish, if you are not careful, the fish's skin may be injured, or parasites may invade and damage the skin. The fungal spores may invade the wound, absorb nutrients, and germinate rapidly. One end of the hyphae will go deep into the muscle, and the other end will grow outward, forming a cotton-like hyphae. When the fungus first parasitizes, it is difficult to see with the naked eye. By the time you can see it with the naked eye, the hyphae have already invaded the fish's wound and grown from the outside to the inside. The hyphae will entangle and adhere to the cell tissue of the wound, causing tissue necrosis. As the number of cotton-like hyphae increases day by day, the fish body is overloaded, causing abnormal swimming, loss of appetite, and gradual weight loss, leading to death.

When ornamental fish are infected with mold, they are also affected by the length of time they are exposed to light. Long periods of continuous rain or insufficient indoor lighting, sunlight, and other light sources can promote the growth of mold. The skin of fish infected with mold is usually covered with a layer of white film, especially black and red fish, which is most obvious, thus losing the luster that the fish should have. Subsequently, the fish become sluggish and often appear sluggish, floating on the water surface. If not treated in time, the mold on the fish will spread, the muscles of the affected area will rot, the appetite will be lost, and eventually death will occur.

[Treatment Method] Skin mold disease can occur all year round, and is most common in early spring and late winter. In order to prevent the occurrence of Saprolegniasis, care should be taken to avoid damaging the fish body and parasite bites during operation, and a small amount of salt can be added to the water to inhibit the occurrence of Saprolegniasis. When the fish body is found to be infected with Saprolegniasis, it can be soaked in 3% salt water once a day for 5 to 10 minutes each time, or soaked in 2 parts per million (2ppm) potassium permanganate solution plus 1% salt for 20 to 30 minutes, or soaked in 1 to 2 parts per million (1 to 2ppm) methylene blue solution for 20 to 30 minutes, or soaked in 5 parts per million (5ppm) furazolidone solution, or directly sprinkled with 0.02 parts per million (0.02ppm) malachite green solution or 0.3 parts per million (0.3ppm) formaldehyde solution into the aquarium to inhibit the growth of mold. The growth of Saprolegniasis can also be inhibited by increasing the water temperature. Installing a 15-watt ultraviolet lamp on the top of the aquarium and irradiating it for several hours a day can effectively inhibit or eliminate the growth of water mold.

4. What are the common diseases of dragon fish and how to treat them?

1 Common diseases of dragon fish and their solutions

Common diseases of dragon fish and their solutions

After observing the posting situation in the forum recently, I found that many novice friends often do not take the initiative to learn the content of the best posts in the forum, but wait until the dragon fish really gets sick before hurriedly posting for help. This is very dangerous. If you don’t get timely guidance from old players at this time, it is very likely that the best time for dragon fish treatment will be delayed, and the precious dragon fish in your hands will die. Therefore, I have specially written this article to guide friends who are new to raising dragon fish to have a correct learning attitude and take the initiative to learn. Once the dragon fish breaks out, they will have a plan in mind and solve it correctly, which can turn passivity into initiative.

Okay, let's get to the point. There are several common diseases of dragon fish:

1. Anorexia:

Cause: Due to the owner feeding a large amount of food or feeding difficult to digest food, such as insects with hard shells and dried shrimps, the dragon fish suffers from gastrointestinal discomfort and indigestion, leading to the arowana's cessation of feeding.

Solution: Change 1/3 of the total water volume in the tank every day for 3 consecutive days. Do not feed any food during these three days. After three days, the dragon fish will have a good appetite.

2. Lying on the tank:

Cause: The main reason for the dragon fish to lie on the tank is that the dragon fish is in a state of urgency, mostly due to being frightened.

Solution: Turn off the lights and let the fish rest for half a month. Do not feed any food for the first three days during the resting period, and feed normally after three days. During the resting period, always make sure not to turn on any lights in the tank. Of course, the lights in the living room and bedroom where the dragon tank is located can be turned on normally due to normal people's life needs, but when passing by the dragon tank, you need to slow down your movements so as not to scare the dragon fish again. In addition, the most important thing to note is that in order to save electricity, do not only turn on the lights in the fish tank, but also turn off the lights in the living room and bedroom. At this time, if a person moves, the dragon cannot see clearly that the moving object is the owner, and it is easy to mistake it for a predator and flee in a hurry. This will not only make the dragon easily frightened from then on, but also cause the dragon to hit the tank wall violently during the escape, causing serious physical damage.

3. Saprolegniasis:

Cause: The water is too old (no water change for a long time) or the filtration system has not been cleaned for a long time (the filter material has not been cleaned for a long time, and changing the water alone will not have much effect on improving the water quality). The dragon fish has been injured or its own resistance is insufficient, resulting in the wound surface or body surface being invaded by water mold. A layer of cotton-like hyphae is attached to the wound surface or body surface. This disease will break out all year round.

Solution: Water molds are most afraid of salt, so usually adding salt can kill water molds, but in order to make the effect faster and more effective, we usually take three steps, namely changing water, raising the temperature, and adding salt (in order to achieve the greatest effect, the order of the three steps should not be disrupted), and the salt dosage ratio is usually half a pound of salt for a one-meter tank.

4. Blindness:

Cause: Same as Saprolegniasis, symptoms are a layer of white film attached to the lens of the dragon fish, and in severe cases the entire eye is covered with a white film, similar to human cataracts

Solution: Same as Saprolegniasis

5. White spot disease:

Cause: Feeding unsterilized small fish or adding new ornamental fish to the tank without disinfecting them thoroughly will introduce the pathogens of white spot into the tank. If the temperature drops suddenly or the fish's resistance is insufficient, a large-scale outbreak will occur. In the early stage, there will be a small amount of round particles of white powder sticking to the fish's body surface. In the middle stage, the fish's body will be covered with a layer of white powder. In the late stage, the fish's body fluids are severely absorbed by the pathogens of white spot, which further weakens the resistance and eventually leads to death.

Solution: Same as Saprolegniasis

6. Bacterial fin rot:

Cause: The main reason is that the fish tail is physically damaged and split during fighting. If the water in the tank is too old, the nitrite concentration is too high, and the bacteria multiply, the bacteria will quickly erode the fish tail, causing it to quickly rot. After the rot, the tail loses its original gloss and turns white. The appearance of bacterial tail rot is often accompanied by the outbreak of internal parasites. Once internal parasites appear, the fish's eyes will collapse into the eye sockets.

Solution: Use human injectable penicillin, with a meter-long tank requiring 4 million international units. After three days, replace 1/3 of the total water in the tank every day, and change the water for three consecutive days. At this time, the pathogenic bacteria that cause tail rot are basically eliminated, and the antibiotic residues are reduced to a very low concentration through water changes. Next, you need to remove internal parasites. Use German-made WATER LIFE tablets, with a meter-long tank requiring one tablet, and replace 1/3 of the water after three days. At the same time, add one tablet, and replace another 1/3 of the water after three days. Repeat this process until all three tablets of medicine are used up, and the parasite problem will be completely solved. The next step is to replace all the water in the tank, 1/3 every day, for three days, clean the filtration system, and then re-cultivate nitrifying bacteria to maintain good water quality and sufficient nutrition to ensure that the new tail does not grow crooked. If the tail unfortunately still grows crooked, surgery is required.

7. Burning tail

Cause: The water is too old and the bacteria content is too high, which is manifested by the white edge of the dragon fish's tail (the white edge of the blue dragon fish's tail is a normal natural phenomenon of this species and does not fall into this category)

Solution: If the filter cotton in the filtration system has not been cleaned for a long time, clean the filter surface first to eliminate the pollution source. After a week, change 1/3 of the water every day for 3 consecutive days.

8. Erosion Scale

Cause: Similar to tail burning, another type of scale erosion is often overlooked, which is when the dragon fish is too fat, causing the scales to stretch quickly and not get enough nutrition, resulting in scale erosion.

Solution: Remove the eroded scales. The other solutions are the same as those for tail burn. If the scales are eroded due to overweight, you also need to reduce the amount of feed, slow down the growth rate of the dragon fish, and reduce the fat of the dragon fish.

9. Rectal prolapse

Cause: Long-term feeding of dry, indigestible food such as dried shrimp. Incompletely digested food strongly rubs against the intestinal wall during excretion, leading to inflammation.