CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How to raise the hatched centipedes? How to choose feeding method?

1. How to raise the hatched centipedes? How to choose feeding method?

1. Separate from the mother centipede or the centipede group in time. When the centipede embryos are hatched for about 20 days, they have taken preliminary shape, the egg membrane that wraps them has broken, and the embryo's body has been exposed. However, the centipede larvae that extend from the egg membrane, the sub-centipede, must spend another 20 days in the mother's arms. This period is called the child-rearing period. During this period, although the mother centipede does not provide them with incubation conditions such as temperature and humidity, nor does it provide them with growth and development conditions such as nutrients and drinking water, and no flesh-and-blood connection is found between the sub-centipede and the mother, if the sub-centipede is forcibly separated from the mother at this time, they will die soon. This may be because: the defensive chitinous shell on the surface of the sub-centipede's body has not yet formed, and the immune system in the body has not yet developed. When the mother centipede holds them in her arms, she will often lick the outer surface of the sub-centipede group. The bactericidal substances contained in her saliva form a protective film on their outer surface, so that they can be generated and continue to develop.

2. Initial feeding. Although the young centipedes that have just left their mother's body have initially acquired the ability to take care of themselves, they are still relatively young after all. Therefore, we often put the centipedes hatched that year in smaller containers (such as plastic basins, glass tanks, etc.) and raise them until the arrival of the first hibernation period. Each plastic basin with a diameter of about 0.5 meters can hold 2 to 3 nests of young centipedes born at the same time. Spread about 5 cm of breeding soil in the basin, and then stack 3 to 4 layers of tiles that have absorbed enough water on the soil for the centipedes to live in. Put some sponges on the tiles for the centipedes to drink water. Put one or several small plastic boards in the center of the breeding soil for feeding.

3. The temperature of the young centipedes should be maintained between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius. The temperature of the soil for the young centipedes should be carefully controlled when they leave their mother's body in the autumn when the temperature is changeable. The humidity of the soil for the young centipedes should be maintained at 20% to 25%. To prevent water accumulation at the bottom, some small holes should be pierced at the bottom of the breeding container with a needle or a small nail to facilitate leakage.

Separate from the mother centipede or the centipede group in time. When the centipede embryos are hatched for about 20 days, they have taken preliminary shape, the egg membrane that wraps them has broken, and the embryo's body has been exposed. However, the centipede larvae that extend from the egg membrane, the sub-centipedes, must spend another 20 days in the mother's arms. This period is called the child-rearing period. During this period, although the mother centipede does not provide them with incubation conditions such as temperature and humidity, nor does it provide them with growth and development conditions such as nutrients and drinking water, and no flesh-and-blood connection is found between the sub-centipedes and the mother, if the sub-centipedes are forcibly separated from the mother at this time, they will die soon. This may be because: the defensive chitinous shell on the surface of the sub-centipedes has not yet formed, and the immune system in the body has not yet developed. When the mother centipede holds them in her arms, she will often lick the outer surface of the sub-centipede group. The bactericidal substances contained in her saliva form a protective film on their outer surface, so that they can be generated and continue to develop.

According to the type of centipede, you need to choose a suitable living environment for breeding, you need to choose suitable feed for breeding, and you must choose a suitable breeding box so that you can breed better.

You can prepare a cardboard box, put a lot of straw and food in it, and then you can raise it slowly and prepare some meat for it to eat.

2. How to breed centipedes

There are two ways to artificially breed centipedes: 1. Outdoor breeding under semi-natural conditions mostly adopts pond breeding. The breeding pond should be built in a place with good ventilation and drainage conditions. A sunny place. Dig 80 cm deep from the ground, with an area of ​​5 to 10 square meters. Build a 10 cm wide and 3 cm deep ditch around the inside of the wall, and build a 30 cm wide and 3 cm deep feed trough on the inside of the ditch to put feed. A shed should be built above the breeding pond to provide shade and rain protection. In order to prevent centipedes from escaping, the breeding pond requires smooth walls and a ditch; the bottom of the pond is covered with about 10 cm thick loose fine sand, and then filled with 3 cm thick fermented animal manure, sprinkle some chicken feathers and chicken bones on the manure, and finally covered with broken tiles or gravel. 2. Indoor full artificial breeding includes two types: in-tank breeding and indoor breeding: ① In-tank breeding: set up several tile tanks indoors, lay about 10 cm thick soil on the bottom of the tank, pile several layers of tiles, stones, etc. on the soil surface, cover with small pieces of sacks, and cover the mouth of the tank with a cover made of fine wire mesh. ② Indoor breeding: The room used for the breeding room is preferably with a ceiling, or a wire mesh is laid on the roof, and iron screen doors and iron screen windows are also set to prevent centipedes from escaping. Tiles, sand, stones and a small amount of soil are stacked in the tile and stone piles around the room, and as many gaps as possible are created for centipedes to live. In order to make full use of the space, the tile and stone piles can be stacked as high as possible. Artificial breeding can choose feed according to local conditions, such as various insects, earthworms, fish, shrimps, eggs, meat, animal blood, miscellaneous bones and fruits. But it must be fresh, and rotten or stale food cannot be fed. It can be fed every 2 to 3 days, but when feeding for the second time, the residual food from the previous time needs to be cleaned up. Centipedes have the habit of drinking water. You should put enough water in the drinking vessel every time you feed them. The first batch of centipede seed sources for breeding mostly come from captured wild centipedes. For breeding purposes, it is required to select centipedes that are 3 to 5 years old, have reached sexual maturity, and are healthy and active, with shiny black backs. The ratio of male to female is preferably 10:2. Centipedes have worse vision during the day than at night, and most of them are not gregarious. The peak of predation is from 8 to 11 pm. The most suitable temperature is 25 to 30℃. Centipedes are inactive below 10℃, and below 0℃ is not conducive to their survival. They are active frequently at night after hot weather and thunderstorms, and less active when it is windy and rainy. Therefore, the activity level of centipedes is related to climatic factors, and should be adjusted at any time. In order to ensure the safety of centipedes overwintering, you can dig a 80-100 cm deep ditch in the breeding pool, mix the garbage and the excavated soil in a ratio of 1:2, and fill the ditch. Then cover it with tiles and broken bricks, and let the centipedes go. Cover the broken tiles with a layer of straw or fine soil to raise the soil temperature and keep it stable, ensuring the centipedes can safely overwinter. If you raise centipedes indoors, you should close the doors and windows and hang straw curtains. If necessary, use charcoal fire to heat the room to increase the indoor temperature. Green Farming Network

3. How to raise centipedes

Feeding centipedes

1. Living habits. Under natural conditions, centipedes generally live on hillsides, fields, roadsides or overgrown areas, or on the edge of a well, in firewood piles and between bricks and tiles. They particularly like damp, old ground. The basic characteristics of their activities are hiding during the day and coming out at night. They stop eating when the temperature is below 10°C and enter hibernation at -7°C.

2. Reproduction characteristics. The life span of centipedes is only 6 years. After sexual maturity, they usually mate in the early morning after rain in March-May and July-August. They start laying eggs 40 days later. The female centipedes lay fertilized eggs on their backs so that they can hatch in time. Each female centipede ovulates for 2-3 hours and lays 80-150 eggs each time. The surface of the eggs is rich in mucus, and the eggs stick together to form egg masses. During the incubation period, the female centipede does not eat or drink until the young centipedes hatch.

3. Feed. Centipedes are typical carnivores with a wide range of diets. They especially like to eat various insects, such as mealworms, crickets, beetles, termites, cicadas, dragonflies, spiders, flies, bees, and their eggs, pupae, and larvae. They also eat worms, earthworms, snails, and meat, viscera, blood, and cartilage of various livestock and aquatic animals. They also eat fruit peels, potatoes, carrots, tender vegetables, and milk and bread.

4. Construction of breeding pond. Artificial breeding of centipedes can be done in tanks, pools, etc. For tank breeding, use old tile tanks or ceramic tanks, preferably with a diameter of more than 0.5 meters, bury the mouth downwards in the soil for about 20 centimeters, and compact the soil outside. Use bricks or adobes to build up the middle of the tank, about 10 centimeters lower than the surface of the tank, leaving a certain gap between the adobes and the tank wall. If you use a complete tank, do not knock off the bottom, and directly build adobes in the tank. A tank with a diameter of 80 centimeters can hold about 200 adult centipedes.

When using pond culture, the breeding pond should be built in a sunny, ventilated, drained, damp, secluded place. It can be built indoors or outdoors. It is built with bricks or stones, and the surface is cemented. The height of the pond is 80 cm. The area of ​​the breeding pond can be any size, generally 5-10 square meters. Paste smooth and intact plastic film on the inside of the pond mouth, or use glass sheets to form a circle of about 15 cm wide and at right angles to the pool wall. 500-900 adult centipedes can be placed per square meter of breeding pond.

V. Key points of management. 1. Prevent centipedes from escaping. Centipedes are impatient and can easily escape if preventive measures are not in place. 2. Pay attention to the stocking density. Centipedes must be divided into groups and pools according to their length and size. 3. Manage the temperature, humidity, and light to keep the environment quiet. 4. Keep the feed clean and hygienic. Do not feed baits contaminated with pesticides. 5. Observe frequently to prevent the natural enemies of centipedes from entering the breeding pond. 6. Prevent food and soil from getting moldy. 7. Remove sick centipedes in time.