CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How long can a wild centipede live if kept in captivity?

How long can a wild centipede live?

About 5 years.

1. The growth temperature should be suitable: When breeding centipedes artificially, it should be noted that the growth temperature of centipedes is generally suitable in an environment of 29 to 32 degrees Celsius. If the temperature is too high, the centipedes will reduce their feeding ability. If the temperature is too low, they will enter a dormant state and delay the time of laying eggs. When the temperature is relatively high in summer, it is necessary to pay attention to ventilation and cooling of centipedes. You can sprinkle water indoors once or twice a day, so that the soil will maintain a certain humidity and achieve the effect of cooling.

2. Feeding: Centipedes eat from April to October each year, and the amount of food they are fed depends on the temperature and the centipede's growth. Generally, centipedes eat more and are more active during the high temperature period in summer, so you can feed them more appropriately. However, if they cannot finish the food, you must clean up the food residue in time to avoid the growth of bacteria and cause the centipede to be infected with diseases.

Centipedes can live for five or six years! The life span of centipedes is only six years. After reaching sexual maturity, they usually mate in the early morning after rain in March to May and July to August. They start laying eggs after 40 days. Female centipedes lay fertilized eggs on their backs so that they can hatch in time. Each female centipede takes 2 to 3 hours to ovulate and lays 30 to 60 eggs each time.

The surface of the eggs is rich in mucus, and the eggs stick together to form an egg mass. During the incubation period, the female centipede does not eat or drink until the young centipedes hatch and then grow into adults.

How to raise centipede so that it grows fast?

Centipede breeding technology:

1. Wild breeding method: This method is simple and easy. In winter, dig a small ditch of unlimited length and width in places where centipedes are found, and put garbage, broken bricks, animal residues, bones, intestines, fish bones, chicken, duck and goose feathers, etc. in it. Centipedes will gather to live and reproduce when they smell the fishy smell of chicken feathers, etc., and they can be caught in spring. Generally, the ditch can be opened every 1 to 2 days to catch centipedes. After catching them, fresh food is added and covered with fine soil to continue catching.

The best season to catch centipedes is around the Qingming Festival. In addition, you can also use an iron rake to catch centipedes on piles of rocks, tree roots, weeds and beaches. This method is especially suitable for first-time centipede breeding, which can solve the problem of seed source and is especially suitable for those who do not have professional breeding conditions.

2. Indoor fully artificial breeding method:

For indoor breeding, cement tanks can be used, and the bottom area of ​​the tank should preferably be 50×40 cm.

Stack cement jars in a "品" shape for 2-3 layers, and use glass plates as jar covers. The jars should be covered with soft fine soil. The thickness varies depending on the season, usually 10 cm in spring and autumn, 5 cm in summer, and about 20 cm in winter. Broken tiles, small stones, small wood blocks, etc. can be placed on the upper layer; the four corners of the jar can be made into triangular small sinks with glass glue, or water containers can be used instead to provide the centipedes with drinking water.

The stocking density depends on the size of the individual, different growth stages and bait conditions. Generally, each tank can be used to raise 200 juvenile centipedes of 1-2 years old, 75 centipedes of 3 years old, or about 40-50 centipedes of 4 years old and above, and about 4 adult males per tank. Other aspects can be referred to the artificial pond culture method in outdoor semi-natural conditions.

3.

Outdoor natural state pool method:

(1) The centipede pond should be built in a relatively cool and humid place on a hillside that is away from the sun and wind and secluded. The pond should be built with bricks, stones, cement and other materials to form a pond wall 80-100 cm high. The gaps in the pond wall should be filled with cement. The length and width of the pond should be determined according to the number of centipedes to be raised. The large pond should be divided into small ponds in the shape of a "field" to facilitate separate breeding.

Drainage ditches should be set up around the pool. No cement is poured on the bottom of the pool. First, about 6 cm of fine soil is laid on it, and then fine stones or broken tiles are covered with gaps. Weeds and trees are also planted in the pool, and a water tray is placed in the pool to supply clean drinking water, so as to create a natural ecological environment suitable for centipedes to live. A 15 cm wide circle of glass is set around the pool mouth, and an "inner eaves" extends out at right angles to the pool wall to prevent centipedes from escaping or other harmful animals from invading.

(2) The first batch of centipedes can be collected from the wild or purchased as seedlings. Generally, the seedlings should be selected from sexually mature centipedes of 3 to 5 years old, strong and active, with shiny black backs. The male-female ratio should be 10:1. However, when the female centipedes lay eggs and hatch, all the male centipedes should be selected and raised separately. The density of centipedes raised in the pond should be 350 to 450 per square meter.

The humidity in the pond is more suitable at 60-70%, and should not exceed 75-90%. If the humidity is too high, centipedes are susceptible to infection and damage by pathogens, which will lead to difficulties in molting and eating, not only hindering normal development, but also causing physiological lesions, and even no reproduction or less reproduction. The temperature in the pond should be kept between 26-29℃. When the temperature rises to 40-42℃ in summer, the water in the centipede evaporates quickly, so you should pay attention to cooling down at any time. The general method is to frequently sprinkle water into the pond to cool down and keep it moist.

In winter, straw should be thrown into the pond to keep it warm, creating a moist, warm and well-fed environment suitable for the growth of centipedes.

(3) Centipedes are carnivorous animals and like to eat various insects, such as locusts, crickets, cicadas, grasshoppers, dragonflies, spiders, moths, etc. The feed should be mainly poultry and animal meat, such as loaches, eels, earthworms, snails, bats, mice, geckos, lizards, snakes, maggots, termites, and earthworms, as well as the leftovers of other animal foods, such as chicken blood, miscellaneous bones, intestines, poultry feathers, and small fish and shrimp offal.

Centipedes sometimes eat fruits, carrots, watermelon peels and tender grass, so you can add 25-35% of green fodder such as water lily and leafy greens. In the evening of summer and autumn, you can also light a lamp to lure insects and moths for centipedes to prey on, and you can put some insects in the weeds in the pond to breed for centipedes to eat. However, centipedes are also resistant to hunger and will not die even if they are not fed for more than ten days. But you should pay attention that centipedes will kill each other and bite the fodder when they are extremely hungry or seriously disturbed.

Centipedes can go without food for several days, but they cannot go without water for a day. A water tray should be set up in the breeding pond to provide sufficient drinking water. Centipedes are particularly particular about food, and they will not eat rotten food, even insects. The amount of food should be increased or decreased according to the season. In spring and summer, centipedes are active, so more should be put in, while in late autumn and early winter, the amount of food can be appropriately reduced. Generally, an adult centipede eats about 1 gram each time. Juvenile centipedes can be fed once every 2 to 3 days, and adult centipedes need to be fed once a day.

The best time to put out bait is in the evening. First, remove the leftovers from the previous day and cut the larger food into pieces and place them separately.

Common centipede diseases and treatments:

Black spot disease: Black spots of different sizes are found under the body and head of the red dragon centipede. You can use 0.6 grams of motherwort, 0.25 grams of oxytetracycline, and 0.

25 grams, grind together and mix with feed insects and feed for 7 days for prevention and treatment. For severe cases, separate feeding can be used. Emulsifiers such as streptomycin, amphotericin, cycloheximide and cinamycin can also be used for prevention and treatment. Gastroenteritis: Mix 0.5 grams of sulfa tablets with feed insects for feeding, or 0.25 grams of chloramphenicol with 300 grams of feed insects for feeding.

Shelling disease: Centipedes grow fast, and it is difficult to shed their shells if the humidity is too dry, while too much humidity will cause small mites and fungal parasites.

At this time, you should feed 0.5 grams of oxytetracycline, 0.6 grams of motherwort, and 1 calcium tablet every 10 days. Grind them together, mix them with 400 grams of breeding insects, and feed them continuously.

Centipede processing technology:

When a centipede is caught alive, it is first killed by scalding it with boiling water, then the tail is cut off and the feces and urine are squeezed out. Then a thin bamboo piece with the same length and width as the centipede is taken, and both ends are sharpened. One end is inserted under the centipede's palate and the other end is inserted into the tail. The centipede is straightened with the elastic force of the bamboo piece and placed in the sun to dry.

If it is rainy, you can use charcoal fire to dry. After drying, take out the bamboo strips (do not break the head and tail, which will affect the quality), put the centipedes of similar length with their heads facing one side, clamp them horizontally at the back and abdomen with thin bamboo strips about 1 cm wide, tie them into rows, 50 per row, and seal them in wooden boxes for storage. Quality requirements: The finished centipedes should be dry and flat, with a reddish-brown head, a dark green back, shiny, and 2 protruding ridges, a brown-yellow abdomen, shrunken, yellow or reddish-brown feet, bent backwards, the last section is like a thorn, the cross section has cracks or is hollow, the smell is slightly fishy, ​​with a pungent odor, spicy and slightly salty, the head and tail are complete, not broken, not worm-eaten, and not moldy.