CATDOLL : CATDOLL: What soil is best for raising red worms and fish? (What soil is best for raising red worms and fish?)

CATDOLL: What soil is best for raising red worms and fish? (What soil is best for raising red worms and fish?)

1. How to breed red worms?

Step/Method 1

When breeding red worms, prepare a glass container, put the selected red worms into it, and then inject clean and sterile natural water. If you want to use tap water for breeding, it is best to expose the tap water to the sun for 2-3 days to remove the chlorine in it to prevent poor growth of the red worms.

Step/Method 2

Control light source

The growth of red worms cannot be separated from light. Lack of light source will cause the red worms to have difficulty breathing and suffocate to death. When breeding, it is best to hang a 5-watt light bulb above the container to provide the red worms with sufficient light, allowing them to breathe freely and grow healthily.

Step/Method 3

Water quality control

When breeding red worms, the water should be changed once a day to keep the water clean. In the process of changing the water, the red worms and the container should be cleaned to remove the mucus to avoid the breeding of bacteria. The breeding water depth should be controlled at about 3-5 cm, and the water level should be deepened at night to keep warm.

Step/Method 4

Feeding. Red worms mainly feed on organic debris in the soil, and they particularly like sweet and acidic baits. Poultry manure, domestic sewage, etc. are all their baits. In professional farms, rice bran, sawdust, sludge, pigeon manure and other raw materials are generally fermented to make feed. If it is a family farm, yeast powder can be soaked in water and fed. Feeding is also a key point in red worm production. Feeding in small amounts and multiple times can increase production. Generally, feeding is done once every 3-4 days, and 50 to 100 kilograms of manure is fed per mu each time. It is mixed with water and sprinkled throughout the pond. When feeding, pay attention to the amount of residual bait, and do not blindly feed more, so as to avoid excessive organic matter in the water body causing fermentation to produce toxic substances, affecting production.

2. How to cultivate red worms as bait in the sea?

1. Build a breeding pond: The red worm breeding pond is made of bricks and mortar. Pond silt is the best bottom mud. Sandy soil should not be used. The thickness of the bottom mud is 5 to 8 cm, and the water depth is 12 to 15 cm. Apply 150 kg of fermented pig manure and other organic fertilizers per 100 square meters.

2. Seedling collection: There are two main ways to obtain red worm seedlings. One is to collect wild red worms in waters where wild red worms are concentrated. The other is to purchase artificially bred seedlings from professional red worm farms. In small-scale breeding, most people collect seeds by themselves.

3. Daily management: During the red worm breeding period, the water level of the breeding pond should be adjusted according to the air temperature and water temperature. After the first peak period of harvesting, it is necessary to promptly add decomposed and fermented organic fertilizer, with the supplementary amount being 50 kg per 100 square meters. In addition, attention should be paid to preventing diseases and pests.

4. Timely harvesting: The first harvesting time of red worms is 15 days after applying base fertilizer, and the other harvesting time is 4 to 5 days after adding organic fertilizer. It is best to harvest when the red worms have grown to their maximum size but before they have emerged from their winged nests. When harvesting, use a 60-mesh nylon net to scoop them out from the bottom mud.

3. How to grow red worms in fish ponds?

The site foundation of large-scale breeding technology of fishing blood worms is an important part of it. It is built in a place with fertile soil and no pollution. Lactic acid bacteria or Bacillus are used to ferment and decompose human and animal feces into small molecular organic matter, which is then mixed with the soil of the farm to increase soil fertility.

Before stocking bloodworms, use quicklime to disinfect and kill protozoan parasites and pathogens to prevent infection. After the drug has worn off, you can put in the cultured bloodworms. Bloodworms are saprophagous, and can grow as long as the soil is fertile and has sufficient organic matter. Rotten vegetables and fruits can be put into the breeding area for feeding. After the vegetables and fruits rot, the bloodworms will eat them. Bloodworms reproduce very quickly, which can easily lead to excessive density and squeeze and hypoxia, so it is necessary to separate them at a reasonable density and in a timely manner. The growth cycle of bloodworms is short, and as long as the soil fertility is good, it can quickly reach the specifications of commercial bloodworms.

There are many things that require human attention in the process of breeding red worms:

1. Red worms are afraid of heat. Too high temperature will cause them to die quickly. During the breeding process, the temperature should be controlled below 26 degrees Celsius to avoid direct exposure to sunlight.

2. Control humidity. The red worms should not be too wet or too dry. A sprinkler can be installed above the farm to cool down and adjust the humidity of the site when the temperature is too high. Drainage ditches should also be built to prevent rainwater from accumulating in the breeding site and causing red worm losses.

3. Prevent escape. In the rainy season, red worms will escape with the water flow. When building a breeding site, cement stalks can be used around the farm to prevent the red worms from escaping.

4. Natural enemies: Red worms have many natural enemies, mainly birds and frogs. Install bird-proof nets or use a separate space for breeding.

5. Disease prevention: Red worms are saprophytic and therefore easily infected with diseases. When breeding, the site should be disinfected frequently and the breeding density should be reasonable.

4. What conditions are needed to breed red worms?

A: 1. Breeding conditions

1. Red worms prefer to live in micro-flowing fertile water, so this condition must be met during artificial breeding. Generally, in late spring and early autumn every year, it is the season when red worms reproduce in large numbers. At this time, red worms will float on the water surface, causing the water surface to be brown-red, and they need to be collected in containers.

2. If it is a small-scale breeding, you can take back the bottom silt and red worms together, put them in a glass container, and then use natural water for breeding. If you use tap water for breeding, you need to expose the tap water to the sun for 2-3 days first.

3. When raising fish, you need to change the water once a day, and take anti-cold measures when the temperature is low. You can cover the container with a red wet towel to keep it moist. The container needs to be large-diameter so that the red worms will float to the surface to breathe. If the container mouth is relatively small, they will easily die.

2. Control the light source. The light source is very important for breeding red worms, because red worms cannot live without light, so the lights must not be turned off at night. If there is no light source at night, the red worms will be too lazy to breathe and easily die. Generally, a 5-watt small bulb can be used as a light source at night.

3. Water quality control

1. The water depth should be 3-5cm. When breeding in spring, the water level can be slightly shallower during the day to increase the water temperature, and the water level can be appropriately deepened at night to help keep warm and prevent cold.

2. Red worms prefer micro-flow water environment. If the water flow is too strong, it will take away the nutrients and eggs on the culture medium. It will also consume a lot of the red worms' physical strength, which is not conducive to increasing production.

3. If the water flow is too small, it will not be conducive to the discharge of water and excrement, which will easily lead to deterioration of water quality and cause death. According to practical production, a water flow of 5-10 liters per second is the best water flow environment.

4. At the same time, red worms are sensitive to pesticides and harmful substances. Pay attention to this when managing water quality. Do not use water that has been sprayed with pesticides and industrial wastewater.

4. Feeding

1. Red worms mainly feed on organic debris in the soil and are very fond of sweet and sour bait. Poultry manure, domestic sewage, etc. are all baits for red worms. Generally, in professional farms, rice bran, sawdust, silt, pigeon manure and other raw materials are fermented to make feed. If it is a family farm, you can use yeast powder to soak in water and feed it.

2. Feeding is also a key point in red worm production. Feeding in small amounts and multiple times can increase production. Generally, feed once every 3-4 days, with 50-100kg of manure per mu each time. Mix it with water and sprinkle it throughout the pond.

3. When feeding, pay attention to the amount of leftover bait and do not feed too much blindly to prevent excessive organic matter in the water body, which will cause fermentation and produce toxic substances, affecting the production of red worms in the later stage.

5. What is the fastest way to breed red worms?

1. Red worms like to live in fertile water with slow flow. Late spring and early autumn every year is the season when red worms reproduce in large numbers. They float on the water surface, often making the water surface brown-red. This is a great opportunity for us to collect red worms.

2. When breeding a small amount of red worms at home, you can take the river pond sludge together with the red worms and put them in a basin or glass container. It is best to soak them with river water. If you use tap water for breeding, you should dry the tap water for 2 to 3 days in advance to remove bleach and other substances. Change the water every other day. In winter, you need to prevent freezing and put a wet red cloth on the container to keep it moist.

3. It is best to use a container with a larger area in contact with the air, because the red worms will float to the water surface and make breathing-like movements, so if there are too many of them, some of them may not be able to compete for a position and die.

4. Light source is necessary for raising red worms. The light source cannot be turned off at night. You can use a small light source (such as a 5w night light, etc.) at night. Because red worms are too lazy to breathe, if there is no light source, they will die easily the next day.

5. There are specialized breeding farms, most of which ferment rice bran, sawdust, banana peel, bagasse, sludge, pigeon manure, etc. to make breeding feed. For home breeding of red worms, you can use yeast powder soaked in water to feed them, but the amount must be controlled.

6. When the number of red worms increases, they should be collected and dried in time. In late autumn and winter, the reproduction capacity of red worms is greatly weakened. In winter, when the red worms are not seen in the water tank, do not pour out the water in the tank, because they are hiding in the green algae. We can put the water tank in a sunny room or near the radiator. In spring, when the indoor temperature rises, the red worms come out again. When the room temperature rises above 28℃, the red worms begin to reproduce in large numbers.

6. How to raise red worms?

To raise red worms, you must first collect them and then prepare the breeding containers. During the breeding process, you must do a good job of water quality management, light source control, feed feeding, etc. When the number of red worms increases, you must harvest them in time and dry them.

1. Red worm collection

Red worms like to live in fertile water with slow flow. Late spring and early autumn every year is the season when red worms reproduce in large numbers. They float on the water surface, often making the water surface brown-red. This is a great opportunity for us to collect red worms.

2. Cultivation vessels

When raising a small amount of bloodworms at home, you can take the river pond sludge together with the bloodworms and put them in a basin or glass container. It is best to soak them in river water. If you use tap water for breeding, you should dry the tap water for 2 to 3 days in advance to remove bleach and other substances. Change the water every other day. In winter, you need to prevent freezing and put a wet red cloth on the container to keep it moist. It is best to use a container with a large area of ​​contact with air, because the bloodworms will float to the surface of the water and have a breathing-like movement, so if there are a lot of them, some of them may not be able to compete for a position and die.

3. Light source control

A light source is necessary for raising red worms, and the light source cannot be turned off at night. You can use a small light source (such as a 5-watt night light, etc.) at night, because red worms are too lazy to breathe, and if there is no light source, they will easily die the next day.

4. Feeding

Most large-scale professional red worm farms use rice bran, sawdust, banana peels, bagasse, sludge, pigeon manure, etc. to ferment and make them into breeding feed. Home-based red worm breeding can use yeast powder soaked in water to feed, but the amount must be controlled.

5. Harvest and Overwintering

When the number of red worms increases, they should be collected and dried in time. In late autumn and winter, the reproduction capacity of red worms is greatly weakened. When you can't see the red worms in the water tank, don't pour out the water in the tank, because they are hiding in the green algae. You can put the water tank in a sunny room or near the radiator. In spring, when the indoor temperature rises, the red worms come out again. When the room temperature rises above 28℃, the red worms begin to reproduce in large numbers.

7. How to raise red worms?

Outdoor breeding method: Either cement pool or earth pit can be used, generally 1m deep and 10-30m2 in area. Use bleaching powder or quicklime 10ppm dry method to clean the pond, then add 0.5m deep water after 7 days of exposure to the sun, and then fertilize after another 7-15 days of exposure.

1.5kg/m3 of horse manure or other animal manure is added to the cement pool as base fertilizer.

The amount of fertilizer applied to the earthen pond is 4kg/m3, with horse manure or other animal manure and 1.5kg of non-toxic plant stems and leaves such as straw as base fertilizer.

The purpose of applying basal fertilizer is to promote the massive reproduction of algae in the water body and provide the necessary material basis for the growth and reproduction of Daphnia.

Daphnia are caught from ponds or small rivers, cleaned and disinfected, and then put into ponds. When the water temperature is 18℃-25℃, Daphnia will begin to multiply in large numbers after about 3-4 days.

The catch should be done every 1-2 days, with about 10%-20% each time. If the amount of Daphnia decreases after several times of catching, stop catching, add new water immediately, and apply appropriate amount of fertilizer.

The amount of topdressing should be adjusted appropriately according to changes in water color and weather.

Normally, the pond water should be yellow-brown and the water transparency should be maintained at about 30cm. If the water is too clear, more fertilizer should be applied, and if the water is dark brown or black brown, less fertilizer or no fertilizer should be applied.

When applying top dressing, use a variety of fertilizers (manure, ammonia fertilizer, nitrogen fertilizer, phosphorus fertilizer, etc.) alternately. Do not use a single fertilizer to help maintain a dynamic balance of various elements in the water.

Indoor cultivation method: Indoor cultivation is less affected by weather changes and cultivation conditions are easier to control. The disadvantage is that only a small amount can be produced.

Wooden barrels, glass jars and other containers that can hold a certain volume of water can be used as culture vessels.

When cultivating, first inject clean water (natural water or tap water) into the culture vessel, expose it to the sun for 3-4 days, add 1.5kg/L of fresh horse manure, 20g of fertile soil, and 2g of straw or other stems and leaves of non-toxic plants. Manure and soil can be added directly. Cut grass into pieces and boil it before adding. Then stir it with a wooden stick and let it stand for 2 days. Finally, introduce the species, preferably 8-12/L. After 3-4 days, Daphnia will begin to multiply in large numbers. In the future, fertilize every 5-6 days according to the fertility of the water. Extended information:

Nutritional value: Red worms contain a lot of protein, up to 40%-60% of their dry weight. Protein contains all the amino acids needed for fish growth.

It is reported that protein bait can only increase the metabolic intensity of goldfish by 20% to 30%, but if goldfish are fed entirely with Daphnia, the metabolic intensity can be increased by 100%.

The fat content in Daphnia is also very high, and goldfish will become fatter after swallowing it.

The carbohydrates, calcium and vitamins in Daphnia are also very rich. The nutritional value of Daphnia as bait for goldfish is unmatched by other granular baits.

It not only has a high protein content, but also contains amino acids, vitamins and calcium necessary for fish.

Daphnia is a high-quality bait for freshwater farmed fish such as eels.

The cultivation is relatively simple. For small-scale breeding, bottles, cans, and tanks can be used; for large-scale breeding, earthen ponds and cement ponds can be used.

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