CATDOLL : CATDOLL:How to raise eels?

CATDOLL:How to raise eels?

The method of raising eels is:

Choose high-quality seedlings. For rapid eel farming, you should choose species that are dark yellow with large black spots, free of disease and injury, sensitive, and have strong fighting and escaping abilities.

Reasonable density. In conventional breeding, the most reasonable stocking density is about 2 kg for individuals weighing about 50 grams per square meter. At the same time, the stocking density of eel ponds with many ridges (such as ridge-ditch eel ponds), many aquatic plants, convenient water changes, and thorough sewage discharge can be increased; otherwise, it should be reduced. The total weight of yellow eels can be increased if the size is large; the total amount of stocking should be reduced if the size is small. Those with breeding experience should have a high stocking density; those without experience should have a low stocking density.

Size is graded and separated into ponds. If large and small eels are raised together in the same pond or cage, the overall weight gain multiple is low, that is, the overall growth rate is slow and the efficiency is poor. Generally, the "bulk goods" purchased should be divided into at least three grades for breeding. The more grades there are, the more conducive it is to breeding and overall rapid weight gain.

Yellow eel, also known as long fish, has strong adaptability, strong vitality, and can survive in all kinds of fresh water and is easy to manage. Generally, one kilogram of eel fry can grow into 5-10 kilograms of adult eels. Artificial breeding of yellow eels saves land and water, is highly efficient, and is a way to get rich. Yellow eel is a benthic fish in warm and tropical freshwaters. It has the characteristics of strong adaptability, miscellaneous diet, and a wide source of bait, which makes it suitable for artificial breeding. Our company introduces new technologies for ecological breeding of yellow eels, biological characteristics of yellow eels, eel farm design for ecological breeding of yellow eels, yellow eel breeding technology in cement pools, cage breeding of eels, and rice field breeding. Artificial breeding, seedling cultivation, feed formula, daily management, water quality management, disease prevention and diagnosis, feeding and management of adult eels, acquisition and pond processing of yellow eels, domestication of yellow eels' diet, and fishing and transportation of yellow eels. 1. Build an eel pond: Choose sunny open space, fields, and old ditches to build a pond. In order to facilitate water changes, it is best to build a pond in a place with a guaranteed water source. Cement ponds, brick ponds, rock ponds, and mortar ponds are used, and cement or mortar joints are used. The bottom and sides of the pond must not leak and eels are not easy to escape. The size of the eel pond is determined by the scale of breeding. It can be large or small, from a few square meters to dozens of square meters. The general pond size is 20-30 square meters, the depth is about 1 meter, and the shape of the pond depends on the location. The water depth is generally maintained at around 10-15 cm in spring, summer, and autumn. In winter, it is drained and some rainwater is left. In order to facilitate water changes and drainage, a water outlet is opened at the bottom and top of the eel pond or a drainage pipe is placed. And install fish traps. After the pond bottom is built to be watertight, 3-5 inches of soil should be laid. The pond bottom can be made of river mud and grass (the thickness of the pond bottom pad is up to 60 cm in some places). Rocks should be piled in the center or four corners of the pond to help the eels keep warm or cool, and adapt to the settlement habits of the eels. The most suitable pond water temperature is 10-25℃. Plant trees, melons, bamboo sheds, or several water chestnuts in the middle of the pond to reduce summer sunshine. Some aquatic plants such as water lilies can be planted in the pond to provide summer heat relief for the eels. 2. Seed selection and planting: Choose good varieties, yellow is better, and cyan is second. It is best to contact eel farmers to buy eels of uniform size, strong body, no disease, and no injury. You can also buy them in the market or catch them in the wild. It is better to have 15-25 eels per jin. Seeds should be planted in March and April after the Waking of Insects (March 5th and 6th). Generally, 2.5-3 jins are planted per square meter. If the breeding conditions are good, about 5-10 jins can be planted. When planting, one or two toads are planted in each pond to prevent and treat common diseases of yellow eels. Some melons or straw balls are placed in the pond to facilitate the hiding of small eels. The source of eels can also be used to catch young eels barehanded (or caged) in mud holes in rice fields or shallow waters from April to October. However, when catching with bare hands, gauze gloves should be worn, and the front half of the eel should be clamped with the middle and index fingers to prevent the young eels from being injured. Young eels caught with iron hooks will have internal injuries and cannot be cultured. 3. Feeding bait: Yellow eels raised in ponds must be fed and carefully raised because their range of activities is limited. The eels fed eat river mussel meat, snail meat, small fish and shrimp, livestock and poultry viscera, borers, silkworm pupae, food factory scraps, rapeseed cakes, and like to eat artificially bred earthworms, fly lights, etc. You can also use lights to lure moths in or use pig blood to attract flies to make lights for feed. Eels are carnivorous fish and are very greedy. When there is a serious shortage of bait, eels have the habit of killing each other or eating the small and the strong eating the weak. Since eels do not come out to move during the day, it is better to feed them at 8-10 o'clock every night. Animal bait is the main feed, and plant bait (such as skin, rice, melons and fruits and other sweet and sour foods) is supplemented. Generally, feed once a day, and the amount of feed is 3-5% of the eel's body weight in the early stage. As the weight of the eel increases, the amount of feed also increases accordingly. It is best to spread the feed evenly throughout the pond. When the bait is insufficient, some duckweed and mulberry leaves can also be added to feed the eels in the golden season of growth from spring to winter. In order to prevent the eels from stopping eating, mixed feeds should be fed. The principle of feeding is new eels, returning to the tank, diverse, and eating up. Human and animal feces must be fermented by heat before they can be sprinkled for feeding. It is strictly forbidden to use rancid and moldy wine lees, tofu dregs, potato dregs and other rancid and spoiled foods. Feeding at regular times and fixed points can facilitate eel feeding and artificial fishing. Remove the remaining bait or inject new eel water early in the morning of the second day after feeding to keep more oxygen in the pond. Of course, feeding should also be moderate. Too much will deteriorate the water quality, and too little will cause insufficient bait. Fourth, careful management: management should be "three checks and three preventions". First, check the water conditions, keep the water fresh, and keep the pool clean and hygienic. Observe frequently, and change the water immediately if the water quality is slightly smelly or not. If the water source is poor, change the water every 5-8 days, and change it frequently during the season. When the weather is hot and the water temperature is too high, you should build a shade shed or add appropriate

Deep water level. Try not to change it in winter. Some loaches can be mixed in the pond. 1-2 jin per square meter to improve water quality and prevent eels from entangled with each other. Second, check the bait situation. Pay attention to the observation of lack of bait, single bait, and mixed bait. Pay attention to thunder and rain and lack of bait. Eels will be frightened and flee, not eat, and will not enter the hole; when there is a lack of bait, eels will chase each other. Feeding new bait should be from less to more. Third, check the disease. As long as you take precautions in advance and pay attention to observation, eel disease can be controlled. The "three preventions" are: First, prevent escape. The pond must be built firmly to prevent floods from washing away the pond or eels from turning over the pond. Drain water during thunderstorms to prevent escape. Second, prevent harm. Geese and ducks are not allowed to enter the pond. The third is to prevent poisoning. It is strictly forbidden to put cigarette butts, fertilizers, pesticides or polluted water into the pool, especially fertilizers and pesticides have severe killing effects on fish. Once poisoning is found, the pool water should be completely drained and the poisonous water and dirt in the pool should be replaced with new water. Then mash the garlic and add water, and put it into the pool at 5 grams per square meter to prevent the death of eels in large numbers. 5. Disease prevention and control: Eels often suffer from fever, colds, skin poisoning and capillaries. Fever is caused by the high density of eels. The prevention and control method is to mix a small amount of loach in the pool (it is appropriate to match 1 loach for every 200 eels). When the eel becomes ill, change the water immediately, or add 70,000ths of copper sulfate solution to the pool, and sprinkle about one large liang per square meter. Eel colds are caused by the low temperature of the new water injected. Before changing water with very low temperature spring water, well water, mountain mineral water or reservoir water, the water temperature should be raised before putting it into the pond. When the water temperature drops below 12℃ in late autumn and early winter, the eels begin to spend the winter in the mud about 30 cm deep. At this time, drain the pond water, keep the soil moist, and cover the soil with a layer of straw about 5 inches thick to prevent freezing and avoid ice. The appearance of plum blossom spots the size of soybeans or broad beans on the back of the eel is a common disease of the eel. The prevention method is to frequently put some toads in the eel pond, because the secretions on the toads have the effect of preventing this disease. If the eel has been infected with this disease, immediately take 1-2 peeled toads, tie them with ropes, and drag them in the pond several times to cure the disease. Skin poisoning is caused by fungal infection caused by eels biting each other or being attacked by harmful organisms. Diseased eels have "white hair" on their bodies, have a poor appetite, become emaciated and die. Before the eels enter the pond, use quicklime to clean and disinfect the pond. If you find sick eels, you can use 40,000 parts of salt and baking soda mixture to sprinkle all over the pond. In the early stage of eel breeding, it is easy to get water mold disease. You can apply 5% iodine to the affected area or soak it in 3-5% salt water for 3-4 minutes. The capillaria disease of the eel is caused by the capillaries parasitizing in the intestines of the eels. The disease destroys the intestinal wall tissue, causing the bacteria to cause inflammation of the intestinal wall, causing the eels to become emaciated and die. It is also necessary to use quicklime to clean the pond and kill the eggs before raising eels. If this eel disease is found, use 5 grams of 90% trichlorfon crystals per 100 kilograms of eels and mix them with 3 kilograms of bean cake powder to make medicine granules for use. 6. Reproduction and storage and transportation: The eels have the characteristics of sex change, and they are female from embryo to the first sexual maturity. Yellow eel begins to mature sexually at the age of two months. The fish is first female and then male. When the body length is about 10 cm, it is generally female. When it grows to about 5 cm, it lays eggs for the first time. Then the sex reversal gradually occurs. When the body length reaches about 35 cm, the male and female account for half, and when the body length is more than 53 cm, all are male. The reproductive season of yellow eel is from April to August, and the peak spawning period is from May to June. Cereal leaves should be placed in the pond to facilitate spawning. Generally, the eggs will naturally hatch into young eels in about 7 days. The leaves with eggs should be placed in another eel pond so that they can be fed with fine feed after hatching. In order to prevent adult eels and water rats from harming young eel fry, during the breeding period, the loofah and straw balls placed in the pond cannot be removed so that young eel fry can take shelter. If the eel fry is properly stored and transported, the survival rate can reach more than 90%. The method is to disinfect the baskets and pad them with mold-free film. Each basket can hold about 50 kilograms. Do not put water in the basket, do not seal it, to prevent lack of oxygen. Put an appropriate amount of soap mud in the basket, break 4 eggs per basket a day, stir them evenly and pour them into the basket, and stir them by hand to maintain a certain amount of nutrients and moisture. Put 1-2 jin of loach in each basket. Every 12 hours, insert your hand into the basket to stir it to prevent the eel from getting a fever. When catching yellow eels, you must take the big ones and leave the small ones, so that there are enough seedlings in the pond to continue breeding. It is best to use the hook fishing method, that is, put earthworms on the hook and stretch it into the eel hole to catch. You can also use a net to catch 1-2 times first, then drain the water to catch, and wash it with clean water after catching. The net for catching yellow eels is generally a summer flower net for catching fish species. When the yellow eels are hibernating, they can be caught by turning over the soil.

I hope this helps you, please give me a "good review"

1. Choose a pond with good water quality, no pollution source, and little external interference. Use bamboo to build a support in the pond and fix the four corners of the cage on the support. Set up a feeding and swimming platform in each cage. Because eels have the habit of cannibalism, the stocking specifications are basically the same, generally 20 to 50 grams per tail.

2. The stocking time of eels should be chosen in April, May, or August to September to avoid the sexual maturity and reproduction period of eels from mid-May to July. The most suitable temperature for the growth of eels is 24 to 28 degrees Celsius.

3. Feeding should be done at regular times. Eels hide during the day and come out at night. It is best to feed them between 6 and 8 p.m. The feed should be fresh and must not be spoiled by mold. The feed should be washed before feeding, and then soaked in 3 to 5 grams of salt for 10-20 minutes per cubic meter of water, and then rinsed with clean water before feeding. Generally, small freshwater fish are selected, and the daily feeding amount is 3%-5% of the total weight of the eels in the cage.

4. When feeding artificially, the eels are fed a large amount of feed, and the feces discharged by the eels are easy to pollute the water quality, so new water should be added frequently to keep the water fresh. Change the water every 7 to 10 days in spring and every 3 to 5 days in summer.

The cages must also be disinfected regularly, using 10 grams of bleach per cubic meter of water and spraying it throughout the pond.

5. After stocking, a proper amount of loach can be stocked in the cages. The habit of loach to swim up and down can be used to divert and increase oxygen, and can also eliminate the residual bait of eels. A certain amount of silver carp can be stocked in the pond to adjust the water quality.

Clean the cages in time, remove excess debris and attached algae, and keep the water exchange inside and outside the cages unobstructed. Plant water plants, preferably water hyacinth and water peanuts in the cages to provide a good place for the eels to grow and live. When transplanting water peanuts, it is best to remove the roots, wash them, and soak them in 5% salt water for about 10 minutes to prevent leeches and other harmful organisms from being brought into the cage with the grass.

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