1. What is the current price of Tuyuan and where can I buy it?Medicinal material classification: Insects --> Earthworm Specifications: Eggs Origin: Bozhou, Anhui Quantity: 10,000 kg (kg) Unit price: 80 yuan/kg Location: Bozhou, Anhui You can also go to the Luandan forum on the Internet to learn more, such as the breeding circle forum, where there are people with experience in breeding earthworms to discuss together, I hope the answer will help you 2. Where can I buy earthworms in Guiyang?There are many companies selling earthworms in Guiyang. Earthworms are a kind of insect that can be used for breeding. The price is seriously affected by the supply and demand relationship, and it is unstable and risky. If you do not have rich basic experience, it is not recommended that you get involved. 3. May I ask: Does anyone know where to buy earthworms? How much is one kilogram of dried earthworms? If anyone knows, please let me know. Thank you!The current price is around 30-32 per kilogram 4. What to do if the earth yuan cannot be soldEarthworm breeding technology 1. Breeding form Earthworms have strong vitality. As long as they are not exposed to the outdoors, there is no wind and rain, and there is no direct sunlight, earthworms can survive. Loose soil and a dark and humid environment can make earthworms grow well. Here are several breeding forms: 1. Pot breeding You can choose a plastic pot with a smooth inner wall, which is more than 15 cm in height and 45-60 cm in diameter. You can directly breed it with built-in breeding soil. Pot breeding is suitable for small-scale breeding, with small investment, simple operation and flexible movement. 2. Cylinder breeding Use a tile pot with a smooth inner wall. The height of the cylinder should not exceed 1 meter, and half or part of it should be buried underground. The breeding soil can be placed 40-50 cm thick. The underground temperature and humidity are balanced and stable, so the earthworms grow well, have a long life, and have good output quality. 3. Pool breeding Flat pool breeding is the predecessor of a three-dimensional greenhouse breeding pool. Use bricks to build a square or rectangular pool 40-50 cm high on the indoor cement floor, leaving a 1-meter walkway, build pools on both sides or build the entire indoor pool, and lay wooden boards on top for walking and operation. Pool 4. While painting the upper edge of the inner wall, use cement slurry to stick 6-8 cm glass strips (if there is no glass strip, thick film can be used instead) to prevent earthworms from turning over. This method of breeding earthworms grows well, is easy to manage and requires little investment. 4. Three-dimensional breeding Nowadays, we advocate the more advanced greenhouse three-dimensional breeding model. The house for building a three-dimensional breeding pool requires no rain leakage, intact walls around, and a flat roof house. Leave doors and windows around the house, and use vertical bricks to build interlayer walls with a gap of 5-10 cm from the original wall. When building interlayer walls, use top bricks to support the original old wall at intervals... Earthworm breeding technology 1. Breeding form Earthworms have extremely strong vitality. As long as they are not exposed to the outdoors, there is no wind and rain, and no direct sunlight, earthworms can survive. Loose soil and a dark and humid environment can make earthworms grow very well. Here are several breeding forms: 1. Pot breeding You can choose a plastic pot with a smooth inner wall, with a height of more than 15 cm and a diameter of 45-60 cm. You can directly breed it with built-in breeding soil. Pot culture is suitable for small-scale breeding, with small investment, easy operation and flexible movement. 2. For tank culture, choose a tile pot with a smooth inner wall. The height of the tank should not exceed 1 meter, and half or part of it should be buried underground. The breeding soil can be placed 40-50 cm thick, the temperature and humidity underground are balanced and stable, the earthworms grow well, have a long life, and have good output quality. 3. Pool culture Flat pool culture is the predecessor of the three-dimensional greenhouse breeding pool. Use bricks to build a square or rectangular pool 40-50 cm high on the indoor cement floor, leaving a 1-meter walkway, build pools on both sides or build the entire indoor pool, and lay wooden boards on it for walking and operation. Pool 4. While painting the upper edge of the inner wall, use cement slurry to stick 6-8 cm glass strips (thick film can be used instead if there is no glass strip) to prevent earthworms from turning over. This method of breeding earthworms grows well, is easy to manage and requires little investment. 4. Three-dimensional breeding Today, we advocate the more advanced greenhouse three-dimensional breeding model. The requirements for building a three-dimensional breeding pond are that the house should not leak, the surrounding walls should be intact, and a flat roof house is fine. Leave doors and windows around the house, and use vertical bricks to build a partition wall, with a gap of 5-10 cm from the original wall. When building the partition wall, use top bricks to support the original old wall at intervals. In order to prevent the partition wall from collapsing, the function of the partition wall is to keep warm and moisturize, which is of great significance for breeding earthworms. After the partition wall is built, leave a walkway of 0.95-1 meter according to the remaining area in the house, design the size of the breeding earthworm board, the thickness of the breeding earthworm board is 3-3.5 cm, and after the size is determined, it is poured with reinforced concrete. After the earthworm board is poured and maintained, the three-dimensional earthworm pool can be built. There are 3 vertical bricks per layer (about 40 cm high). After one layer is built, the inner wall is painted and another layer of earthworm board is laid. It can be built 6-7 layers, and the top is capped. Leave a 19-20 cm operation window on one side of the earthworm room walkway, and stick a hard plastic paper about 4 cm extending into the earthworm pool on the upper edge of the operation window to prevent earthworms from turning over and running away. After the earthworm room is built, paint the inner wall around it and fill the gaps to prevent rats and ants from entering. 5. Heating breeding Heating breeding is particularly important in the process of artificial earthworm breeding. Heating the breeding pool can shorten the growth cycle by one third. Although heating increases some costs, the benefits generated are insignificant in comparison. The heating method can also be adopted according to local conditions. 2. Tools, feed, and breeding soil 1. Breeding tools Long foot basin - used for soaking feed and screening insects, and holding breeding soil when screening eggs. Round foot basin - used to hold breeding soil, insects, egg masses, and feed when feeding. 2 mesh (1 cm) sieve - used to screen adult insects. 6 mesh (4 mm) sieve - used to screen larvae and egg masses. Window screen sieve - used to screen mites. Long bracket - used to bracket pit soil, 25-80 cm long and 8-10 cm wide. Two-phase running lights - used for mobile lighting in the pit room. Thermometer - placed in the pit room for a long time to measure the temperature. Scraper - used to dig out the pit soil and insects in the deep pit. Crusher - used in large farms to crush feed and breeding soil. Dustpan - used to move soil, dustpan and empty shells of earthworms. 2. Feed The earthworms have a wide range of food. Wheat bran, rice bran, vegetable leaves, roots, stems, flowers, beans, leaves of melons, etc. are all good feeds for earthworms. We generally use wheat bran, vegetable leaves, melons and other easy-to-take and cheap feeds. Green vegetable feed should avoid pesticide pollution. In the process of feeding green feed, grasp the season and use specific green feed according to the time period. Green vegetables November-May Mulberry leaves May-November Lettuce leaves April-May, October-April Cucumber May-September Pumpkin July-December 3. Feeding earthworms can adapt to various soil minerals. After artificial breeding, feeding soil is specially prepared for it for management. The breeding soil is generally made of garden soil, mountain mud, leaf humus soil, etc. First use a 6-mesh sieve to sift out large soil blocks, leaves and other impurities. It can also be crushed with a grinder and then sieved. Mix 30%-50% of plant ash into the fine soil. The breeding soil requires a certain humidity. The general soil is sticky. When mixing the breeding soil, water cannot be sprayed directly on the soil. Instead, water should be sprayed on the plant ash or sawdust before mixing it into the soil. Pig manure, cow manure, coal slag, etc. can also be mixed in. Note that pig manure and cow manure should be fermented before use. Pure soil can also be used to feed earthworms. Its disadvantage is that the humidity is difficult to control and the earthworms do not burrow deep into the soil. In short, the preparation of breeding soil should be loose, breathable, and non-fermented to meet the growth needs of earthworms. 3. Seed retention and hatching management of earthworms. Breeding and breeding industry involves the issue of seed selection and seed retention. The following are the main methods for breeding and preserving earthworms: 1. Hatching block breeding method: This breeding method is widely used. The hatching blocks are small and light, with a high reproduction coefficient and easy to transport. 2. Larvae introduction breeding method: This introduction method is more practical. The larvae are small and easy to carry. 3. Adult introduction breeding method: This introduction method is more economical. After introduction, the introduced species can lay eggs and keep the eggs. The adults can be sold after being scalded to death to make up part of the cost. However, it is more difficult to transport. We generally refer to egg block breeding and preserving seeds. First of all, we need to see whether the eggs and worms are strong. It is not acceptable if the mother worms are uneven or die too much. Preserving seeds generally involves screening the second or third batches of eggs. These egg blocks have a neat shape, strong physique, and are easy to hatch and manage. In the entire process of raising earthworms, the hatching management of the eggs is a key link. It is directly related to the success of the breeding and the economic benefits. There are many hatching methods, such as: (1) indoor temperature-controlled hatching (2) constant temperature incubator (3) kerosene lamp heating hatching We believe that the latter two methods are not as direct as indoor temperature-controlled incubation. Place the egg mass in a plastic basin with a smooth inner wall. A 50-cm diameter plastic basin can hold 4-5 kg of eggs, and mix in two-thirds of the egg mass with breeding soil. Keep the humidity of the breeding soil at about 35%-40% (it will form a ball when grasped by hand and will break into pieces when hit). After 3-5 days, the breeding soil will gradually dry. At this time, you cannot spray water on it to humidify it, but you should sift out the dry breeding soil and mix in new preheated breeding soil. During the incubation period, the temperature should always be maintained at 25-30℃, with 28℃ being the best. Turn the eggs by hand 1-2 times a day to increase the freshness of the air in the breeding soil. When turning, move gently to avoid damaging the egg mass. After 30 days of incubation, some larvae begin to break out of their shells, and we will see tens of thousands of larvae at this time. Screen once every two days and divide the larvae according to the proportion. When screening the small insects, we should be gentle to avoid damaging the larvae. After a large number of worms emerge, some of the empty shells of the worms are mixed in. When the empty shells make a loud sound during the screening process, you can use a dustpan to dustpole the empty shells. IV. Management of earthworms 1. Management of larvae and middle-aged worms After the larvae hatch, they are separated from the egg mass. The sieved larvae are placed in a pit or basin together with the breeding soil for breeding. The stocking density of larvae is higher (0.3-0.4 kg/m2, about 80,000-100,000). The high density is convenient for feeding and observation. The breeding soil for larvae does not need to be too deep, 8 cm is enough. Later, as the breeding ponds are divided, the breeding soil is gradually deepened, and the middle-aged worms are 8-12 cm. The breeding temperature for larvae is 32℃, and the middle-aged worms are 30℃. The larvae start to eat 5 days after hatching. At this time, some wheat bran, melon and fruit flowers, small green vegetables, pumpkin shreds, etc. are needed. Wheat bran is best sieved with a fine mesh sieve and soaked. Flour, soybean powder and other higher-quality feeds need to be added during the larval stage, and the amount does not need to be too large. The larvae eat very little, so be careful to feed them in moderation. As the larvae grow, the breeding density becomes too large. At this time, the larvae eat a lot more and are more active, so the first pond division is needed. When dividing the pond, dig out half of the soil and worms and put them into another empty pond or basin, flatten them, and then fill them with new breeding soil, slightly exceeding the depth of the original breeding soil. If the temperature difference of the breeding soil in the divided ponds is too large, it should be preheated before entering the pond. The management of the middle worms is relatively extensive, and the feed also needs to be more extensive, as long as they can eat enough. 2. Pick males for mating. The male and female earthworms are the same in the larval stage. When they shed their skin for the 9th time, the male worms will emerge. A male earthworm can mate with 8-16 female earthworms. The number of male earthworms accounts for about 43% of the total. In this way, there are too many male earthworms. Artificial breeders take advantage of the uneven growth of earthworms. After the male earthworms shed their skin for the eighth time, they sort out the earthworms that grow fast but have not yet emerged, and make them into dried products for sale. This measure can increase output efficiency. After the male earthworms shed their skin for the seventh time, two sharp corners appear on the edges of the two carapaces on their backs, while the female earthworms do not; the reproductive mouth cover of the male earthworms' posterior abdomen is smaller, while the reproductive mouth cover of the female earthworms is larger. We can pick out male earthworms based on the above characteristics. About 20 days after picking males, the female earthworms that have shed their skin for 11 times and matured earlier need to mate. When the female earthworms mature, they emit a smell (which humans cannot smell) to attract male earthworms to mate. The female earthworms that need to mate usually climb up the wall or the wall of the pot, leaving a smell along the wall, with their posterior abdomen raised. The male earthworms follow the smell and climb up the wall to mate with them. The whole process takes 10-20 minutes. After the male earthworms mate for the first time, they keep looking for female earthworms to mate. After 10-20 days, the male earthworms die naturally. There are dozens of eggs in the female earthworm. After one mating, all of these eggs are fertilized. The first egg mass is laid 7 days after mating, and one egg is laid every 7 days. After 4 months of peak egg-laying period, the earthworms gradually age and die. 3. Adult management: The earthworms are reared in greenhouses and males are selected after 6 months. The mating period is 2 months after the selection of males. After 2 months, more than 50% of the female insects begin to lay eggs. The female earthworm lays eggs in the form of slowly secreting gelatinous mucus from the birth canal, which quickly forms and hardens. It takes about 3-6 days to lay one egg. The egg-laying period does not affect its activities and eating. The first egg mass can be screened 3 months after the selection of males. Screening eggs is done manually. Generally, it is screened every 20-25 days after the first egg screening. First, remove the impurities on the surface of the breeding soil. One person picks out the insects and soil from the breeding pool and pours them into the 2-mesh sieve held by another person for screening. A 6-mesh sieve is placed under the 2-mesh sieve. Use a 2-mesh sieve to filter out the adults and pour them into a basin with breeding soil placed next to it. Use a 6-mesh sieve to filter out the egg masses and pour them into another empty basin specially used for egg masses. After sieving a pit, pour the breeding soil and adults back into the breeding pool for breeding. The sieved egg masses are mixed with some earthworm feces and other debris, which can be washed in water. The egg masses will float up when they enter the water, while general impurities will sink. Take out the egg masses, rinse them with clean water, dry them in the shade, sieve them, winnow out the empty shells, and pick out the impurities. Such egg masses can be kept for hatching. During the adult period, the humidity of the breeding soil should be higher (40%-45%). You can spray water on the surface of the breeding soil or increase the amount of green feed. After sieving the blocks, add water to the empty pit to increase the humidity. After 4 months of egg laying, the weight of the mother earthworms is significantly reduced and a large number of them die. At this time, the finished insects can be harvested. Three months before harvest, the second batch of larvae have been hatched and are waiting to be divided into ponds, so that the breeding pond is never empty, and the cycle repeats to achieve the best benefits. 4. Temperature and humidity control The earthworm is oval in shape, with a large surface area and rapid water dissipation. When the temperature is below 20℃, the molting growth is slow, and when it exceeds 38℃, the growth stops, and the earthworm becomes restless and crawls on the surface of the breeding soil. Therefore, the temperature and humidity control of artificial earthworms should be adapted to their needs to achieve the best breeding effect. Artificial control of humidity also prevents high and low humidity. The humidity requirements of earthworms at different ages are also different. The temperature for hatching egg masses is 28℃-30℃, the temperature for larvae and middle worms is 28℃-32℃, and the temperature for adults is 25℃-28℃. Artificial control of humidity is also different at different stages. When hatching eggs, it is 35%-40%, the temperature for larvae is 35%, the temperature for middle worms is 40%, and the temperature for adults is 45%. Wild earthworms grow mostly in dark and humid environments and are afraid of direct sunlight. It is not difficult to create this optimal growth condition for artificial breeding. The doors and windows are blocked with sacks or dark snakeskin bags, so that the humidity in the pit room will dissipate slowly. When the temperature is high, the humidity in the breeding soil will dissipate quickly. A special sprayer without pesticide pollution can be used to spray water on the surface of the breeding soil and the walls of the pit. The spray should be even and in small amounts and multiple times. 5. Feeding and management The living habits of earthworms are to hide during the day and come out at night. They are active from 18:00 to 24:00 every day. During the peak feeding period, not every earthworm eats every day. After eating once, they will hide in the soil for 2-3 days without moving. Artificial earthworms need to be fed with food at 5-6 pm every day. The feeding amount should be flexibly controlled according to the food intake of the insects at different growth stages. Observe and summarize more. Feeding too little is not conducive to the growth of the insects. Feeding too much will waste feed and cause the reproduction of mites, which is also not conducive to the growth of the insects. There are three feeding methods: (1) Knead the feed into small balls and feed them in small spots (suitable for larvae). (2) Sprinkle the feed on the surface of the breeding soil (suitable for medium-sized insects). (3) Use 15*15cm plastic film to make a feeding table, and place the feed on the feeding table (suitable for adults). 6. Stocking density Earthworms grow by molting, and their body size doubles with each molt. We count each molt as age. Male earthworms mature after 9 molts, while female earthworms need to molt 11 times. The artificial breeding of earthworms involves the utilization rate of the area and the convenience of management. The stocking density should also be different according to the growth needs of each age of insects. The list is as follows: 80,000-100,000 larvae 50,000 1st-2nd age 25,000 3rd-5th age 12,500 9th-13th age 4,000-5,000 The depth of earthworms in different stages is different. For the convenience of management, we also list the depth of the breeding soil: 5-8 cm for larvae 8-12 cm for middle worms 12-15 cm for adults 5. Disease and Pest Control Since ancient times, earthworms have many natural enemies of insects and small animals. They can survive and reproduce to this day and have the ability to avoid enemies. Animal natural enemies include ants, mice, spiders, chickens, ducks, birds, etc. The following introduces the main diseases and enemies encountered during artificial breeding. 1. Causes of fungal enteritis: The breeding environment is too humid, the temperature is unstable, and eating spoiled food. Symptoms: Abdomen is swollen, light yellow, with black spots on the body surface, crawling slowly, and the abdomen is easily broken by squeezing with hands, with yellow-green pus flowing out. Slow growth, no mating, no egg laying, and some deaths. Prevention and control methods: This disease is not fed with high-protein feed, but mainly with extensive feed, and prevent the food from being moldy and deteriorating. Add 0.5 grams of oxytetracycline to the feed and mix it with 250 grams of wheat. 2. Mites Mites are one of the biggest natural enemies of insects, reproduce very quickly, and are only as big as a needle tip. They parasitize on various parts of the earthworm's body and on the surface of the breeding soil. They mainly eat feed such as wheat, and also eat sick and weak earthworms. They are more harmful to larvae. The large-scale production of mites is mainly caused by excessive feeding, long-term leftovers, excessive moisture in the breeding soil, and low temperature. The following are the methods to remove mites: (1) Scrape out the topsoil with mites and sieve it through a window screen. (2) Soak wheat flour and make small balls with a diameter of 1-2 cm. Place them on the surface of the breeding soil at 3-5 points per square meter during the day. Mites will flock to eat. After 1-2 hours, remove the wheat flour balls and mites. (3) Combine the above methods and do not feed for 1-2 days. Mites will starve to death, but the growth of earthworms will not be affected. Adjust the humidity of the breeding soil. 3. Prevention and control of ant infestation Ants are everywhere. They are also unavoidable in earthworm breeding ponds, where they drag and eat many larvae. (1) Chlordane oil and chlordane powder are sold in agricultural supplies or chemical stores, which have a repellent effect on ants. (2) Place the latest cockroach and ant cleaner in places where ants are present. This drug is a chronic drug. Ants will drag this drug into their caves. In 2-3 days, all ants in a nest will be killed. However, earthworms should be prevented from accidentally ingesting it. (3) Place meat residues in places where ants are present to trap and kill them. 6. Harvesting and processing of earthworms 1. Harvesting and processing of adult earthworms The harvesting of earthworms is relatively simple. Scald to death and dry in the sun. It is required to be free of impurities, dry and not broken. After 11-13 months of breeding, the peak period of egg-laying has passed, and the weight of the female insects begins to decrease and gradually die. At this time, you can choose a sunny day, screen out the female insects, put them in boiling water to scald them, rinse them clean, and dry them in the hot sun for 3-5 days. If it is rainy, you should consider drying. To test the dryness of earthworms, you only need to squeeze the abdomen of the earthworm. If there is still a soft gelatinous substance in the abdomen, it means that it is not dry. Undried earthworms are inconvenient to store. 2. Storage method of finished earthworms After the earthworms are harvested and dried, due to market dynamics, they sometimes need to be placed for a period of time before they are put on the market in order to achieve the best economic benefits. This involves the inventory method. Medicinal material companies, pharmaceutical factories and other units have professional warehouses. General breeding farms do not have such conditions, so we can learn from their methods to make some small warehouses. After the earthworms are dried in the sun, they are cooled and placed in a plastic bag that is not leaky. Aluminum phosphide tablets or powder are placed in the bag to prevent insects. Aluminum phosphide is highly toxic, so the bag should be tied tightly after use and kept away from the house to prevent accidental inhalation and poisoning. No medication is needed in winter when the temperature is low. |
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