CATDOLL : CATDOLL: How to preserve honeycomb?

1. How to preserve honeycomb?

The extracted honeycombs can be saved except for the old and useless ones that need to be eliminated and waxed. The honeycombs to be saved should be cleaned and classified. Honeycombs with scattered cells storing honey should be shaken out with a honey shaker. Honeycombs that have just been taken out should be placed in the super or outside the partition to let the bees lick the remaining honey. Propolis, wax tumors and other substances adhering to the nest frame should be scraped off with a scraper. Honeycombs, pollen combs and empty combs should be separated, and empty combs should be separated according to the newness and quality.

2. How to preserve the honeycomb?

Preservation of honeycombs When not in use, honeycombs are prone to mold, dust, and nest worms, which attract mice and bee thieves. During the bee activity season, unused honeycombs can be put in a super and added to a strong colony for the bees to keep. One colony can take care of 4 to 5 supers. Before wintering in autumn, remove excess honeycombs from the colony and scrape off propolis, beeswax, etc. on the nest frame.

Remove old honeycombs that are more than 3 years old and those with too many drone cells and poor quality, melt and squeeze out the wax, and put the honey combs, half honey combs, pollen combs and empty combs into the supers respectively, 7 to 8 combs in each box, and rub every 6 to 7 supers into a row. Seal the gaps between the hives with paper strips. If sulfur fumigation is used, leave the bottom box in the stack empty, and add 5 grams of sulfur powder to each box. The sulfur dioxide produced by the burning of sulfur will rise. Fumigation should be carried out every 12 to 15 days, and fumigation should be carried out 3 times in a row.

If carbon disulfide is used for fumigation, leave the top box of the box stack empty, use 10 ml per box, put the container containing carbon disulfide in the empty box, cover the box with a gauze cover, and use newspaper to cover the top tightly, so the carbon disulfide will evaporate and sink. Carbon disulfide is volatile, flammable and toxic at room temperature, so pay attention to safety when using it. If 98% glacial acetic acid is used for fumigation, it has a high lethality to the eggs and larvae of wax moths, use 20 ml per box, and use the same method as carbon disulfide.

For bee farms with serious bee moth infestations, formic acid can be used to fumigate honeycombs. Use 10 ml of 85% formic acid per box, sprinkle evenly on straw paper, place on the top super, cover with plastic film, and cover with cloth box cover. The above drugs are toxic to humans. Therefore, fumigation should be carried out in an unoccupied empty room to prevent poisoning. In places in the north where the lowest temperature in winter is below -10°C, paste the honeycomb super tightly and store it in a room without fire, which can also kill insects and sterilize with good results.

3. What is the significance of preserving honeycomb?

After the honey flow period, or when the bee colony retreats during the summer and autumn, or when the bee colony is reorganized before wintering, a lot of honeycombs will be extracted from the bee colony. If these honeycombs are not properly preserved, they will easily become moldy, dusty, infested with nest insects, and attract bee robbers. Therefore, honeycomb preservation is also an important part of beekeeping.

4. What should we pay attention to when preserving honeycomb?

When the honeycomb is not in use, it is easy to mold, accumulate dust, and breed nest insects, which will attract mice and bee robbers. During the bee activity season, the unused honeycombs can be concentrated in the super box.

In a strong colony, let the bees take care of it. One colony can take care of 4 to 5 supers. Before wintering in autumn, remove the extra honeycombs from the colony and scrape off the propolis and beeswax on the nest frames. Remove the old honeycombs over 3 years old and those with many drone cells and poor quality, and melt and squeeze out the wax.

Honey comb, half honey comb, flower

Powdered combs and empty combs are placed in the supers, 7 to 8 combs per box, and 6 to 7 supers are stacked together. The gaps between the hives are sealed with paper strips. If sulfur fumigation is used, the bottom box of the stack is empty, and 5 grams of sulfur powder is added to each box. The sulfur dioxide produced by sulfur combustion rises every 12 seconds.

~ Fumigation once every 15 days, for 3 times in a row.

If carbon disulfide is used for fumigation, leave the top box of the stack empty, and place the container containing carbon disulfide in the empty box according to the dosage of 10 ml per box. Cover the box with a gauze cover, and cover the top with newspaper to seal it tightly. Carbon disulfide will evaporate and sink. Carbon disulfide is volatile, flammable, and toxic at room temperature. When using it,

Pay attention to safety. If you use 98% glacial acetic acid for fumigation, it is highly lethal to the eggs and larvae of wax moth. Use 20 ml per box and use the same method as carbon disulfide.

For bee farms with serious bee moth infestations, formic acid can be used to fumigate the honeycombs. Use 10 ml of 85% formic acid per box, sprinkle it evenly on straw paper, place it on the top super, cover it with plastic film, and then cover the box with a cloth lid.

The above drugs are all toxic to humans. Therefore, the spleen fumigation should be carried out in an unoccupied empty room to prevent poisoning.

In places in the north where the lowest temperature in winter reaches below -10℃, the honeycomb supers should be sealed tightly and stored in a room without fire. This can also kill insects and sterilize with good results.

5. How should the preserved honeycomb be taken out and used?

When the preserved honeycombs are taken out for use, they should be ventilated for a day and a night first; it is best to fill the honeycombs with 3% salt water, shake them clean after one night, and then place them in the sun for 3 to 4 minutes on each side before inserting them into the bee colony, so that the queen bee will be more receptive to laying eggs.

6.How to preserve honeycomb?

When not in use, honeycombs are prone to mold, dust, and nest worms, which attract mice and bee thieves. During the bee activity season, unused honeycombs can be put in the supers and added to the strong colony for the bees to keep. One colony can take care of 4-5 supers. Before wintering in autumn, remove the excess honeycombs from the bee colony and scrape off the propolis and beeswax on the nest frames. Remove the old honeycombs over 3 years old and the honeycombs with many drone cells and poor quality, and refine the wax sticks.

Put honey combs, half honey combs, pollen combs and empty combs in the beehives, 7-8 combs per box, 6-7 supers are rubbed into a row, and the gaps between the hives are sealed with paper strips. If sulfur is used for fumigation, leave the bottom box empty, use 5 grams of sulfur powder per box, the sulfur dioxide produced by the combustion of sulfur powder rises, fumigate once every 1-15 days, and fumigate 3 times in a row. If carbon disulfide is used for fumigation, leave the top box empty, use 10 ml per box, put the container containing carbon disulfide in the empty super, cover the box with gauze, cover the top with newspaper and seal it tightly, and the carbon disulfide will evaporate and sink.

Carbon disulfide is volatile, flammable and toxic at room temperature, so please pay attention to safety when using it. If 98% glacial acid is used for fumigation, it is highly lethal to the eggs and larvae of wax tents. Use 20 ml per box and follow the same method as carbon disulfide. For bee farms with serious bee snail infestation, formic acid can be used for fumigation of honeycombs. Use 10 millidans of 85% formic acid per box, sprinkle evenly on straw paper, place on the top super, cover with plastic film, and cover with cloth box cover.

The above drugs are all toxic to humans. Therefore, the spleen fumigation should be carried out in an empty room where no one lives to prevent poisoning.