CATDOLL : CATDOLL: Why doesn’t the golden arowana eat food?

1. Why doesn’t the golden arowana eat food?

The adult body length of the golden arowana is 40 to 50 cm, and the life span can reach several decades. The golden arowana is more powerful than the red arowana. It mainly preys on live fish and shrimp, aquatic insects and even frogs and centipedes, and especially likes to eat cockroaches. Small fish, small shrimp (the xiphoid process must be cut off), meat, mealworms, bloodworms, etc. are the best for aquarium breeding. Artificial feed can also be fed. The water quality requirements are not high. Tap water with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 can be properly dechlorinated (exposed to the sun or with soda), and soft water (boiling treatment) is better. The suitable water temperature is 23 to 29 degrees Celsius, and it is generally adjusted to 25 degrees Celsius in winter. General aquarium filtration devices can meet the needs of raising golden arowana. Do not change the water too frequently or too much to avoid scales or fins falling off (although they can regenerate). It is advisable to change 1/4 each time. A submersible pump can be used to form water flow in the fish tank to keep the golden arowana alive. There are few viruses, which are generally not fatal. When damaged or infected, they can be treated with salt water and antibiotics.

As long as the water temperature is ok, you'll be fine. Don't worry. It could be because you're frightened or you're in a bad mood.

2. Will being too tired lead to illness?

You must fully understand the characteristics of the rabbit breed, feed quality, breeding environment, and cage equipment. According to the different ages and seasonal characteristics of rabbits, adopt appropriate breeding and management techniques. With love and great patience, you can achieve good breeding results.

Basic feeding principles:

1. Green fodder is the main feed, supplemented by pelleted feed.

2. Reasonable combination and food diversification.

3. Regular and quantitative.

4. When changing feed, increase or decrease the amount gradually.

5. Pay close attention to food quality and prepare meals carefully.

6. Pay attention to drinking water.

7. Feed more grass at night.

Basic management principles:

1. Pay attention to hygiene and keep dry.

2. Request quietness and avoid harassment.

3. Increase your physical activity.

4. Take precautions against heatstroke in summer, cold weather in winter, and moisture in rainy days.

5. Group management.

Breast milk is absolutely necessary for young rabbits (about 45 days before weaning). If there is no mother rabbit or the mother rabbit does not feed milk, it is best to buy milk substitute to feed. After three weeks of age (21 days), the young rabbits can eat food other than breast milk, but breast milk is still the staple food! Feed crushed into small pieces of grass Alfalfa is rich in calcium and protein, which is most suitable for young rabbits. Note: Vegetable shavings are best added to the diet of the rabbit after it is weaned and has the habit of eating grass.

Young rabbits (after weaning ~ 3 months old) have unlimited drinking water (the water must be boiled) and unlimited feed. Alfalfa hay can be provided in unlimited quantities, but in order to make the rabbits develop the habit of eating grass from an early age, you can also give them fruits and vegetables in a fixed amount every day. You can start slowly after eating grass, but you should start with a small amount and observe at any time.

Young rabbits (3 months old to mature) can drink unlimited water (water that has to be boiled) and unlimited grass. Gradually replace alfalfa with low-calcium grass (mixed in a 1:1 ratio) to avoid urinary stones and obesity (often occurring in adult rabbits). Feed is calculated differently based on the weight of each rabbit and the amount of feed should be limited to allow the rabbits to get used to eating grass as their main food. Fruits and vegetables can be eaten in moderation as a snack after meals.

Adult rabbits (mature, about six or seven months later) have unlimited drinking water (boiled water is required) and unlimited pasture, mainly low-calorie and low-calcium pasture (such as timothy, orchard grass, etc.). Feed is calculated based on the rabbit's body weight and the calories of your rabbit feed (indicated on the package). The daily feed should not exceed half of the total calorie requirement.

Rabbit house selection and location considerations

The choice of placement for a rabbit house should be based on the biological characteristics of rabbits (especially their living habits), rather than the convenience of human life, and then combined with other factors.

1. Since rabbits prefer dryness, the rabbit house should not be placed in a hot and humid place such as the kitchen, steam room, or near bathroom facilities.

2. Domestic rabbits are afraid of heat and can tolerate cold, so you need to pay attention to the orientation of the rabbit house, the direction of airflow, and the angle of sunlight to avoid heat stroke; you should also pay attention to the problem of rabbits being exposed to rain.

3. Rabbits like to chew on hard objects, so be careful of materials that may rust on cage doors and frames. Take necessary protective measures for any place that may be chewed by rabbits, such as wires and furniture.

4. Rabbits like quietness, so don’t keep them near busy roads or crowded streets, or on balconies with noisy streets. Also, try not to shout or sing karaoke loudly near the rabbit cage.

5. Rabbits are sensitive to air, so they should not be placed in places where there are foul odors coming from gutters or garbage cans; nor should they be placed in places where rats, cockroaches, centipedes, ants, etc. are often present.

In addition, the rabbit house should also be in a place where the owner can quickly find it, especially a place that is convenient for diligent cleaning, observation, and management. If the location is too far away or unreasonable, it will increase the owner's workload, and eventually the rabbit will be exhausted and its ears will collapse.

It will affect the willingness to work, resulting in poor rabbit management quality. Then you will not have beautiful rabbit babies. When buying and building houses for rabbits, you should pay attention to practicality, based on their breed size, age and sanitation issues, and not overly consider human aesthetics and convenience.

3. I have a few cute little cockroaches. What do they eat? They don't even eat vegetables.

Cockroaches are omnivorous animals. You can give them some fruit peels, but please be careful. If they run away, a group of cockroaches will come to your house.

4. Is the red-jawed scorpion an arid or rainforest scorpion?

Although the Red Alligatorback is a desert scorpion, its humidity requirements are slightly higher than other desert scorpions.

Cannot be raised in groups.

The bedding material can be sand or coconut soil, which can be used for shelter.

Cherry cockroaches, mealworms, Dubia worms, and barley worms are all fine. Feed once every three days.

In winter, use a heating pad to warm the room to around 28 degrees.

Don't disturb the molting, that's basically it.