CATDOLL : CATDOLL: Can cage-cultured crucian carp spawn naturally?

Can cage-cultured crucian carp spawn naturally?

Things to note when raising crucian carp in cages: 1. Be sure to choose a large reservoir or lake. The advantage is that the water in the cage is rich in oxygen, the crucian carp in the cage is less active, consumes less energy, and grows faster. 2. When choosing cages, pay attention to places with slow water flow, more vegetation around, and no pollution. The distance between cages should be 2-3 meters.

Cage culture, crucian carp, spawning

Things to note when raising crucian carp in cages: 1. Be sure to choose a large reservoir or lake. The advantage is that the water in the cage is rich in oxygen, the crucian carp in the cage is less active, consumes less energy, and grows faster. 2. When choosing cages, pay attention to places with slow water flow, more vegetation around, and no pollution. The distance between cages should be 2-3 meters.

I have an acre of pond and would like to raise eels, loaches and crucian carp in it. Is it feasible to culture the eels and loaches in separate cages and crucian carp in the lower layer and a few silver carp and bighead carp in the middle layer?

Eels and loaches can be raised together.

1. Build a breeding pond to raise eels and loaches:

Choose a place that is sheltered from the wind, sunny, quiet and with convenient water sources. You can use cement pools or earthen pools. You can also use cages in reservoirs, weirs, small ditches and small rivers. The area is generally 25 to 150 square meters. If you use cement pools to raise eels and loaches, you must carry out de-alkali treatment before stocking; if you use earthen pools, the soil must be hard and the bottom of the pool must be compacted. The pool depth is 0.8 to 1.5 meters. Whether it is a cement pool or an earthen pool, a 30-centimeter layer of fertile mud must be filled at the bottom of the pool. Fertile mud with more organic matter is best, which is conducive to eels and loaches digging caves to live in. When building the pool, you must also set up inlets and outlets, and the water depth should be kept at 15 to 20 centimeters. The inlet and outlet should be tied with fish nets to prevent eels and loaches from escaping.

About 10 days before stocking, thoroughly disinfect the breeding pond with quicklime, and drain the pond water 3-4 days before stocking and then inject new water.

Choose dense polyethylene mesh to make cages. The mesh size should be such that eels and loaches cannot escape and that it is conducive to water exchange inside and outside the cage. The area of ​​a single cage should not exceed 20 square meters, and the specifications are generally 5 to 7 meters long, 2 to 3 meters wide, and 1.5 to 2 meters high. The cages are fixed along the edge of the pond with bamboo poles, with the cage mouth 0.5 to 0.6 meters above the water surface, and the distance between the cages is 1.5 meters. The total area of ​​the cages should not exceed 10% of the pond area. 7 to 10 days before stocking the seedlings, soak the new cages in water to allow a layer of algae biofilm to adhere to the surface of the net to avoid scratching the eels. Put the soil that has been exposed or disinfected into the cage, about 0.2 meters thick, so that eels and loaches can hide in the soil in winter to overwinter. Transplant water peanuts in the cage, and the coverage area accounts for 70% to 80% of the cage area.

2. Select the right eel and loach seedlings and stock them properly:

The key to the success of eel and loach farming is seedlings. It is best to use artificially bred and domesticated dark yellow large-spotted eels or golden small-spotted eels as eel seedlings. Do not use variegated eel seedlings or eel seedlings that have not been domesticated. The appropriate size of eel seedlings is 50-80 per kilogram. If they are too small, they will have poor feeding and low survival rates. The stocking density is generally 1-1.5 kilograms of eel seedlings per square meter. After 20 days of stocking, loach seedlings are added at a ratio of 1:10. It is best to use artificially bred loaches for the highest survival rate.

Before stocking eel and loach fry, stock seedlings in the pond according to conventional breeding requirements. Eel and loach fry can be stocked from April to November. The size of eel seedlings is about 20 grams per tail. The size of eels in the same net cage should be as uniform as possible to avoid cannibalism. Stocking should be done as early as possible to improve the size of the box. The size of 25-gram eels and 0.5-gram loaches can be stocked per square meter of net cage; or 3-4-kg eels and 1-kg loaches can be stocked with a size of 50 grams. 3-5 days before stocking seedlings, water peanuts and water bodies should be disinfected with bleaching powder aqueous solution. Eel and loach seedlings can be disinfected by soaking in 10ppm methylene blue aqueous solution for 10-15 minutes or bathing in 20ppm potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 5-10 minutes, or soaking in 3%-4% salt solution for 3-5 minutes.

3. Feeding compound feed:

First install the feeding platform. The feeding platform can be made of wood or plastic. The area is determined according to the size of the pond and is 5 meters below the water surface. Do not feed the eels for the first three days after the eel seedlings are released to allow them to adapt to the environment. Feeding begins on the fourth day. It is best to feed the eels around 7 pm every day, when the eel intake is the highest. Artificially raised eels are mainly fed with compound feeds, and some small fish, shrimps, earthworms, maggots, river snails, mealworms, silkworm pupae, pig blood, and animal offal are appropriately fed with fresh feeds. For artificially domesticated eels, compound feeds and earthworms are their favorite feeds. Artificially cultivated dark yellow spotted eel seedlings are used for feeding with compound feeds. The daily feeding amount is 3-5 of the eel's body weight, and it is fed 1-2 times a day (depending on the weather and water temperature). The principle of timing and quantity is adopted. A 20g eel seedling can grow to 200-300g in one year. Loaches in the pond mainly feed on the excrement discharged by eels and the leftover eel feed. A part of the food can also be solved by fertilizing the water quality. Loaches reproduce quickly naturally. When the ratio of loaches in the pond is greater than 1:10, bran can be fed once a day. The feeding amount should be small at the beginning and gradually increased later.

When breeding yellow eels artificially, it is best to release a certain proportion of loaches after the feeding work is completed, so as to achieve mutual beneficial symbiosis between yellow eels and loaches and create good economic benefits. Because loaches and yellow eels have different feeding habits and different acceptance of compound feeds. Loaches can adapt almost without any feeding, while yellow eels need to go through a period of compulsory feeding to adapt. During feeding, often, the yellow eels have not opened their mouths to eat, and the loaches have already swept them away, thus affecting the feeding time of the yellow eels and even causing the feeding to fail. Loaches are active and swim up and down when feeding, causing large fluctuations in the water, so that part of the feed is lost in the water, polluting the water quality, affecting the utilization rate of the compound feed, and thus prolonging the feeding time.

4. Feeding and Management

The growing season of eels and loaches is from April to November, with the peak season from May to September. During this period, management should be "diligent" and "detailed", that is, frequent inspections of the pond, frequent management, and timely resolution of problems. Insist on checking the box in the morning and evening to prevent escape, rats, theft, and floods, and promptly remove the overgrown water peanuts in the box to prevent them from growing out of the box and causing the eels and loaches to escape. After November, if there is no soil layer in the box, the water peanuts can be thickened to 0.3 meters, and then weighed down with heavy objects to allow eels and loaches to hibernate in it. Carefully observe the growth status of eels and loaches in the pond so that corresponding measures can be taken in time. The habit of eels and loaches is to hide during the day and come out at night. Keep the water quality of the pond fresh, with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.5 and a suitable water level.

5. Prevention is the main approach to eel disease

1-2ppm bleaching powder should be frequently sprayed throughout the pond, and copper sulfate should be used regularly to prevent diseases. Because once the eel is sick, the treatment effect is relatively poor, so prevention is more important than treatment.